A A A
Avatar

Please consider registering
Guest

Search

— Forum Scope —






— Match —





— Forum Options —





Minimum search word length is 3 characters - maximum search word length is 84 characters

Register Lost password?
sp_Feed sp_PrintTopic sp_TopicIcon
1951 BSA BANTAM D1 HEADLIGHT SWITCH
Avatar
Stephen Clarke
Second Gear User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 11
Member Since:
January 16, 2019
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
1
October 25, 2019 - 11:29 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Hi all, just need one of these in any condition, from broken to in bits trying

to do a museum D1 thank you that works and looks like it has worked from 1951

I await your reply  I wish myself good luck even for a reply

 

best regards Steve Clarke

 

IMG_3291.jpg

Avatar
Stoo63
GLASGOW
Area Rep
Moderator
Forum Posts: 284
Member Since:
April 19, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
2
October 25, 2019 - 12:15 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

3 seconds searching Ebay found this

** Please log in to view **

These are very sought after items that come up now and again and command a good price. It's a case of patience and money. Hopefully you can find one in time.

Stewart

'52 D1 direct lighting plunger, '58 Square Four (project), '59 D1 direct lighting plunger,  '59 Tiger Cub, '60 5TA,  '76 FS1-E

Avatar
wildun
Lincolnshire.
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 172
Member Since:
April 30, 2012
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
3
October 27, 2019 - 10:11 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Here you go, another one. If you are seriously looking for one, Steve, here is yet another one. Are you actually serious about buying one because you have asked us to find you one several times now, and we have found you several, yet you continue asking us to find you one. Why haven't you bought one yet?

You are looking for an original part from 70 years ago, they can only become more difficult to find as each day passes. Buy this one now and solve your problem at last.

** Please log in to view **

 

Regards.

1951 Bantam D1 125, 1954 Bantam Enduro, 1970 Bantam B175, all Bantams on the road and ridden regularly, 1995 Yamaha Diversion 900 and 2016 Honda Integra 750 scooter. Horses for courses, all very different to each other, but a bike for every occasion.

Avatar
Mick W
Chester/ North Wales Flintshire Border
Moderator
Moderator
Forum Posts: 882
Member Since:
June 13, 2015
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
4
October 27, 2019 - 10:28 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Stephen has not been on since he asked the question. 457909E3-6DC3-4B27-A995-FDBB34AE1C98.jpeg

Avatar
wildun
Lincolnshire.
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 172
Member Since:
April 30, 2012
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
5
October 30, 2019 - 8:11 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

I have corresponded with Stephen in private about this request. He would prefer to have an original switch on his D1 that he is building from parts but is not prepared to pay what other buyers are. His choice, but we all know that he is unlikely to find one at his price and, no doubt, he will be in the same position when he is looking for the other parts that he will be needing. Unfortunately, Steve has been very critical of sellers and  their prices. It is no easier for the rest of us though, trying to build Bantams or keep them running. Times have certainly changed. Hopefully Steve will get there eventually but I feel he has a long way to go.

I have explained to him that there are alternative (cheaper) ways of controlling the lights on a D1 if an owner simply wants to ride the bike and is not concerned with visual originality of switch. There are nowadays no requirements for front side lights or parking lights so all that is required from a mechanical point of view is a simple on/off switch controlling the headlight supply (via dip switch) and tail light supply. Steve has accepted this and is deciding on which type of switch will suit him. I have sent him photos of the switch that I use on my D3.

Most of us know that it is a bad idea financially to build any model of Bantam, or any other make of bike, from parts. The sum (price) of the parts will always be equal or exceed the cost of a complete bike. This is why so many uncompleted projects are broken up and sold off in parts. The advice to new potential owners must always be to buy a complete bike even if in need of tidying up to whatever personal requirement. Any parts missing will always be the most expensive or difficult to find.

All of us have different amounts of money to spend, or justify spending, on a bike but nothing is easy anymore. It was interesting to read in Old Bike Mart that the Classic Japanese Bike columnist admits that their type of bike can no longer be cheque book restorations, as in the past, but now alternative parts are having to be modified or pattern parts accepted.

Regards to all, enjoy your Bantams, I do.

1951 Bantam D1 125, 1954 Bantam Enduro, 1970 Bantam B175, all Bantams on the road and ridden regularly, 1995 Yamaha Diversion 900 and 2016 Honda Integra 750 scooter. Horses for courses, all very different to each other, but a bike for every occasion.

Avatar
stubaker58
Sunny Felixstowe
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 372
Member Since:
June 13, 2015
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
6
October 31, 2019 - 8:50 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

I agree about the cost of parts and the commitment needed to keep things running, it’s a real shame to see bikes being broken but it is inevitable.

regarding the switch Hitchcocks have a couple that, although not original, look the part and are a reasonable price, maybe worth a try.  Either that or scour the autojumbles picking up incomplete units here and there until you’ve all the components to make up a complete switch.

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

Avatar
Stoo63
GLASGOW
Area Rep
Moderator
Forum Posts: 284
Member Since:
April 19, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
7
November 4, 2019 - 9:22 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

OUCH!!

** Please log in to view **

'52 D1 direct lighting plunger, '58 Square Four (project), '59 D1 direct lighting plunger,  '59 Tiger Cub, '60 5TA,  '76 FS1-E

Avatar
cocorico
Central France
Top Gear User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 3125
Member Since:
June 23, 2013
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
8
November 5, 2019 - 8:36 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Stoo63 said
OUCH!!

Precisely, just like cams. That's another problem for us enthusiasts of old bikes. I've recently been searching for handlebar switches for a Morini (1980s) and even spares for those have become scarce and expensive - though not up to that sort of price yet.

The trouble is that the sum of all the new parts does not increase the value of the bike pro rata.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn, including a Morini 250 now insured and on road testing.

Avatar
mike p5xbx
E-Sussex
Top Gear User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 1604
Member Since:
June 15, 2012
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
9
November 5, 2019 - 5:09 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

there are many switches you can fit on a Bantam that will turn the lights on/off for only a few pounds if you dont like the cost of Original
the price of Original parts for Bantams is still relatively low in comparison with some other makes and still probably cheaper then they would have cost in real terms when new

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

Avatar
Stoo63
GLASGOW
Area Rep
Moderator
Forum Posts: 284
Member Since:
April 19, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
10
November 5, 2019 - 10:02 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Excellent point, Mike. 

'52 D1 direct lighting plunger, '58 Square Four (project), '59 D1 direct lighting plunger,  '59 Tiger Cub, '60 5TA,  '76 FS1-E

Avatar
mike p5xbx
E-Sussex
Top Gear User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 1604
Member Since:
June 15, 2012
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
11
November 5, 2019 - 11:41 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Incidentally if you have the sense to ignore the many overoptimistic classified ads on ebay you can still get most parts for what I think is a reasonable price like this
both a head lamp shell and switch......

d3HLwith2switch2.jpg

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

Avatar
Stoo63
GLASGOW
Area Rep
Moderator
Forum Posts: 284
Member Since:
April 19, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
12
November 6, 2019 - 12:04 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Patience is the name of the game. I've been desperate fro a set of rocker blocks for my Square 4 project for a year now. Impossible to find worldwide apart from 2 sources. One was £1200 for a set of 4! The other was £450 for four.  Got a set for 100quid a couple of weeks ago. Still expensive,BUT a helluva lot more realistic than the others. You gotta keep your eyes peeled and be patient. The stuff is out there. Just gotta find it. Was talking to a new member today who literally found a GPO D1 in a barn and walked away with it for £200. The owner didn't even think it was a motorbike. You win some.....

'52 D1 direct lighting plunger, '58 Square Four (project), '59 D1 direct lighting plunger,  '59 Tiger Cub, '60 5TA,  '76 FS1-E

Avatar
JustinW
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 52
Member Since:
September 22, 2019
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
13
November 6, 2019 - 6:56 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Can I jump in with a quick question which may sound daft. The headlight bulb has two elements. When you go from dipped to main, do both elements light, or do they alternate from top element/bottom element?

Avatar
GlenAnderson
Dover
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 151
Member Since:
August 27, 2013
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
14
November 6, 2019 - 1:17 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

The top element is the dipped beam, the central one is main.

It’s a bit counterintuitive. The original 6v unregulated AC lighting circuit only produced enough output for the head and tail light, so to save cost and complexity there’s nothing to limit output other than the bulbs themselves.

Originally, the dip switch should be “make before break”, meaning both filaments are briefly on at the same time. Although this means you’re momentarily plunged into darkness, it prevents the unregulated AC output from spiking as the headlight changes and blowing the tail lamp. 

If you have one of the modern voltage regulators to stop that then you can use a “break before make” dip switch that allows a quicker transition. 

Forum Timezone: Europe/London

Most Users Ever Online: 223

Currently Online:
7 Guest(s)

Currently Browsing this Page:
1 Guest(s)

Top Posters:

Cornish Rooster: 3314

Anderzander: 3208

bart: 3135

cocorico: 3125

Sprung Chicken: 2651

Mags 1: 2612

David Dale: 2485

Munchkin: 2231

Blue Heeler: 2138

Katj: 2138

Newest Members:

_2223

Forum Stats:

Groups: 9

Forums: 46

Topics: 12106

Posts: 104197

 

Member Stats:

Guest Posters: 518

Members: 3726

Moderators: 3

Admins: 3

Administrators: Piquet, JMD, Rusty Floater

Moderators: xcgb, Mick W, Stoo63