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Villiers 1F Engine ... won't start ..
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Swing42
NSW Australia
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February 5, 2019 - 8:08 am
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G'day all,

This is my first post here..

I've just bought my first Bantam,a 1956 D3 and am looking forward to the restoration.

Before I start on it however,I want to finish the restoration of a 1951 Malvern Star Autobyke.

Malvern Star was an Australian company that made mainly push bikes ,but from about 1940 to 1951 they made Autocycles (they spelt the name of these machines AUTOBYKE for some reason) ..My bike has Webb forks and a 2 speed Villiers 98cc 1F Engine ... and here's where my problem lies,the Engine won't start..We went through the engine with all new parts ... bearings ,seals etc.It has plenty of spark ( NGK B7HS plug) and compression,but apart from a 'splutter' or 4 ,it just wont run..Fuel is getting to the carburettor and flooding it,but from what I can make out,it doesn't seem to be getting to the engine as the plug doesn't appear to be wet..

Would anyone have any ideas about the problem ?

Thanks ... best regards from OZ .. Charlie .

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cocorico
Central France
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February 5, 2019 - 11:11 am
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I've just had a problem with an oldish Peugeot scooter (seized piston) which wouldn't run after repair, with no fuel reaching the plug. I'd done all the 'normal' tests. Cleaned carb, checked fuel flow, cleaned elec connections and even replaced the reed valve. I got as far as ordering new seals, though pretty sure it wasn't them. I then decided to lift the cylinder again and found that the new base gasket had somehow rotated 90deg on the first reassembly, so obstructing the intake port. Turned it back, reassembled and voila, runs like a dream again. Now I just have all the bodywork to put back! Hope that helps.

The Bantam Club Forum - all the answers are in there.

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bantammad
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February 5, 2019 - 4:12 pm
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Hi charlie  I have just rebuilt a 1f with new conrod kit bearings etc the thing is that they need to be spot on if the crank case is air tight good spark fuel etc they go as a rule what i have come across is timing slip the fly wheel turns on the crank shaft when flogging up the fly wheel nut check that the mark on the crank is at 12 o clock points just breaking and the fly wheel mark is inline with the mark on the back plate most important the crank taper and cone must be clean and dry or it will slip when floggin up the fly wheel nut clean both parts i use carb cleaner most effective it drys both mating parts oh been doing for engines around 58 year time served advice is free hope it helps you  g.day mate  best regards LES    bantamad  from England

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Mags 1
Northamptonshire.
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February 5, 2019 - 4:59 pm
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Try turning engine over with your hand over the carb intake, a magneto D7 I'm working on has a fat blue spark and compression too, but like yours plug was dry, no fuel, no start....hold tickler down until fuel comes out, should be enough there then, also try some fuel into plug hole, about a thimble full should be enough.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Swing42
NSW Australia
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February 8, 2019 - 7:47 am
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It lives!

Thanks to the members who put in their two bobs worth re the Villiers 1F ..

As suggested by Cocorico,I lifted the barrel and checked whether the base gasket was incorrectly fitted ... all was good there.

Bantammad Les was on the money however... the timing was out ,as the flywheel had slipped during the tightening process... when all the marks lined up,the piston was about 2/3rd of the way down the barrel.. I set it all up and tried for a start only to find that it had slipped again.Second try with with crank taper cleaned with acetone and a little bit of extra muscle on the tightening spanner and away she went.. first kick .

Ahhhh we do love a win !

Thanks again friends,your input was much appreciated ..

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