A A A
Avatar

Please consider registering
Guest

Search

— Forum Scope —






— Match —





— Forum Options —





Minimum search word length is 3 characters - maximum search word length is 84 characters

Register Lost password?
sp_Feed sp_PrintTopic sp_TopicIcon
Triumph Cub 1960
Avatar
HowD1
Exeter, Devon.
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 1945
Member Since:
November 23, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
61
October 25, 2016 - 10:15 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Well done Dimitris, looking very nice.

Time to find another bike.....

Avatar
dimitris
CYPRUS
Forum User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 1490
Member Since:
May 31, 2014
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
62
October 25, 2016 - 12:01 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

HowD1 said
Well done Dimitris, looking very nice.

Time to find another bike.....  

Do you know something i don't??? whistlecant-look

FB_IMG_1477284953775-1.jpg

Thanks guys, but this was mostly clean up...didnt touch the engine, and i hope i dont have to 🙂

Wheels & Bearings, forks, oiling systems, speedo, electrics, and the seat needed most of the attention..

Probably went little further than just an oily rag (cocoriko) but...ok.dunno

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

Avatar
Hans Kreuzen
Queensland Australia
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 835
Member Since:
January 17, 2015
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
63
October 25, 2016 - 12:18 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Your Triumph is looking great, Well doneclap, Let's hope it startsfingers-crossedwhistlepopcorn

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

Avatar
dimitris
CYPRUS
Forum User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 1490
Member Since:
May 31, 2014
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
64
October 25, 2016 - 1:15 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Hans Kreuzen said
Your Triumph is looking great, Well doneclap, Let's hope it startsfingers-crossedwhistlepopcorn  

You have a point there...rofl For sure it was starting before all this...
But, being in the living room, it's not so important that it does...wowdoh
It stacked there...i must push the d10 somewhere to empty the sotrage...cannot leave any of them out!!

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

Avatar
dimitris
CYPRUS
Forum User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 1490
Member Since:
May 31, 2014
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
65
October 25, 2016 - 8:59 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Amazing sound! Especially with ear phones (stereo)!
Carb needs tuning, have to find the correct firing procedure, and probably timing not very accurate yet...

** Please log in to view **

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

Avatar
Hans Kreuzen
Queensland Australia
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 835
Member Since:
January 17, 2015
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
66
October 25, 2016 - 9:28 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Sounds great, clapI bet you can't wait to take it out on the road, Good job.thumbs-up

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

Avatar
dimitris
CYPRUS
Forum User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 1490
Member Since:
May 31, 2014
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
67
March 28, 2017 - 1:19 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

This was going very slow, but i did a few things..

Last and most important, was the carb replacement, although i had to do a few modifications to use it without a manifold adaptor. I used a Mikuni vm22, replaced jets, and managed to have a running engine, and able to rev up.

Had some also issue with the gear lever rotating on the shaft, but i drilled and put a safety pin, which did the job.

Kickstart also feels like slipping..but when it does move the piston, it fires up very easy.

But having the chance to finally test it on the road, i discovered i had only first gear + neautral....dunno

So, although i was trying to avoid messing with the gearbox, i have to go deeper...

 

Maybe this is for good, because having the chance to see in there, everyhting looks quite rusted due the water that was in there...
So must remove the outer cover, inner right cover and acess gearbox. No need to split engine for now...
Hoping that the manuals and some internet info will be enough...fingers-crossed

20170326_182044.jpg

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

Avatar
dimitris
CYPRUS
Forum User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 1490
Member Since:
May 31, 2014
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
68
April 6, 2017 - 6:08 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Not strange having gearbox issues, when this is happening in the gearbox, right???freaked-out_gif

Clean it, or replace it??

20170406_071611_resized.jpg

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

Avatar
sunny
Norfolk
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 1134
Member Since:
January 9, 2013
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
69
April 6, 2017 - 7:39 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

clean  first     and  see  if the   working    faces   of  metal  are  still  good         if  not     get  new  parts    ,,, i  have  had   parts looking  like   this   working    well    after  a  clean

Avatar
cocorico
Central France
Moderator
Moderator
Forum Posts: 2666
Member Since:
June 23, 2013
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
70
April 6, 2017 - 7:43 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

As Sunny says - try a clean first.

If you degrease it first with acetone, then try a bath in white vinegar. If that doesn't shift it, electrolysis using a weak caustic solution and a battery charger works really well. There is plenty on the internet about it.

Avatar
dimitris
CYPRUS
Forum User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 1490
Member Since:
May 31, 2014
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
71
April 6, 2017 - 10:16 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

I've done the elecrolysis procedure and Yes, its working very good. But first i must be able to remove it from there, because it is attached with some nuts (rusted) at the rear cant-look

At least the gears themselves, dont look bad....and i found my problem.

I hope that after cleaning, metal will be good...thumbs-up

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

Avatar
johnsullivan
east sussex
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 684
Member Since:
August 31, 2016
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
72
April 6, 2017 - 10:54 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Hot citric acid works well and is eco friendly like vinegar leave to work overnight.

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. Suzuki 89  DR 250S, Sinnis SC 125. 78 Honda 90  75 Montesa Cota 247 an electric scooter of famous make.

Avatar
cocorico
Central France
Moderator
Moderator
Forum Posts: 2666
Member Since:
June 23, 2013
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
73
April 6, 2017 - 11:00 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

dimitris said
 But first i must be able to remove it from there, because it is attached with some nuts (rusted) at the rear cant-look
 

Use proper easing oil (not WD40) or a mixture of acetone and ATF or hydraulic oil to free your nuts (embarassed). They will give way in the end.

Avatar
Mags 1
Northamptonshire.
Forum User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 2392
Member Since:
August 24, 2013
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
74
April 6, 2017 - 4:56 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

The good thing about the Cub and particularly the 'porthole' type engines like yours, is being able to strip the whole thing out if necessary and leave main case bare in frame, even crank will pull out.

I have issues with the porthole engine I'm rebuilding now, replaced high gear long bush that carries final drive sprocket, goes into back of clutch side, trying to bolt clutch rear plate on and it's locking up?

There don't appear to be any locking washers on the crankshaft gear, yet there are some on generator rotor and clutch middle? Strange.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

Avatar
dimitris
CYPRUS
Forum User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 1490
Member Since:
May 31, 2014
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
75
April 9, 2017 - 10:50 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Yes, very good that there is no need to remove engine and split cases!! I even didn't touch clutch, so i left the gearbox main shaft in place.

I removed what was possible, with the gear change mechanism, finished with electrolysis and now cleaning with wire brushes. I will also try to polish the trails for the gear selectors. But i will need springs for the selectors...I wonder how i could change between first gear and neutral, with those ruined springs...cant-look

20170409_153950_resized.jpg

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

Avatar
Mags 1
Northamptonshire.
Forum User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 2392
Member Since:
August 24, 2013
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
76
April 10, 2017 - 12:20 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

I read that BSA bought out Triumph in 1951, the year I was born.

So most old Triumphs under 66 years old, you see at shows etc are all really BSAs....

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

Avatar
two-stroke
Forum User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 76
Member Since:
January 17, 2014
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
77
April 10, 2017 - 4:11 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

dimitris - Electrolysis worked well, impressed, I must give it a try.

 

Best check your history Mags.

Triumph may have been bought out by BSA but they were an entirely separate company with an increasing sharing of the parts bin especially for the smaller models until quite late in both Company's existence (1971?) when even the larger models shared frames etc.  Even then the engines were quite different with Triumph continuing with their constantly updated design from as far back as 1937. Triumph Trident introduced in 1968 was designed by Triumph and badge engineered as a BSA Rocket 3 with different engine cases and frame design. The C-B25/TR25 250's from the late sixties onwards were also badge engineered but this time BSA was the base but with an engine whose roots were way back in the Triumph Terrier and updated Cub design.

Birmingham Small Arms also owned various other motorcycle makes as well as lots of other Companies, at one time they also owned Daimler but you wouldn't describe them as a BSA! Would you?

Avatar
Digby
Leeds West Yorkshire
Forum User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 464
Member Since:
July 11, 2014
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
78
April 10, 2017 - 5:52 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Just de rusted a d3 tank using Citric Acid from Wilko £1.50 used it hot the result is astonishing,I did throw some nuts n bolts in first then flushed with water to loosen the rust flakes,what a cheap n easy method!

Forget to mention being a Yorkshireman it's also very cheap!! Leaving more money for other liquids 🍺🍺🍺

1968 D14.1965 Honda CB160,1978 Honda 400/4 Supersport,Honda Innova.D10 silver ( JPS) 1976 Kawasaki KH 250 project.

Avatar
Mags 1
Northamptonshire.
Forum User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 2392
Member Since:
August 24, 2013
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
79
April 10, 2017 - 7:24 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

two-stroke said
dimitris - Electrolysis worked well, impressed, I must give it a try.

 

Best check your history Mags.

Triumph may have been bought out by BSA but they were an entirely separate company with an increasing sharing of the parts bin especially for the smaller models until quite late in both Company's existence (1971?) when even the larger models shared frames etc.  Even then the engines were quite different with Triumph continuing with their constantly updated design from as far back as 1937. Triumph Trident introduced in 1968 was designed by Triumph and badge engineered as a BSA Rocket 3 with different engine cases and frame design. The C-B25/TR25 250's from the late sixties onwards were also badge engineered but this time BSA was the base but with an engine whose roots were way back in the Triumph Terrier and updated Cub design.

Birmingham Small Arms also owned various other motorcycle makes as well as lots of other Companies, at one time they also owned Daimler but you wouldn't describe them as a BSA! Would you?  

Badge engineering?

British Leyland owned Austin, Morris, Vanden Plas Triumph etc etc cars kept their badges but were very similar, as were some BSA, Triumph  etc.

BSA took advantage of the Triumph loyalty I suppose and left things as they were, but the 'two differing companies' workers didn't see eye to eye, as I've read it?

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

Avatar
swalsh58
St. Mary's Bay, Kent
Club Dating Officer
Committee
Forum Posts: 1058
Member Since:
May 14, 2014
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
80
April 10, 2017 - 7:26 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Digby said
Just de rusted a d3 tank using Citric Acid from Wilko £1.50 used it hot the result is astonishing,I did throw some nuts n bolts in first then flushed with water to loosen the rust flakes,what a cheap n easy method!

Forget to mention being a Yorkshireman it's also very cheap!! Leaving more money for other liquids 🍺🍺🍺  

Interesting, I have a tank that needs doing, how long did you leave the acid in there?

Current bikes......1958 D5, a 77 Suzuki GT250 and a 77 Honda CB125S. I have a 74 Kawasaki S3 400 and a B175 waiting for restoration. A 1980 Honda CB400N waiting for MOT.  Everyday ride is a 2011 Harley Davidson Sportster. 

Forum Timezone: Europe/London

Most Users Ever Online: 98

Currently Online: Sponge
20 Guest(s)

Currently Browsing this Page:
1 Guest(s)

Top Posters:

Cornish Rooster: 3303

Anderzander: 3208

bart: 3137

Sprung Chicken: 2650

David Dale: 2491

Mags 1: 2392

Munchkin: 2219

Blue Heeler: 2152

Katj: 2139

HowD1: 1945

Newest Members:

_1543

Forum Stats:

Groups: 9

Forums: 46

Topics: 11593

Posts: 99511

 

Member Stats:

Guest Posters: 510

Members: 2753

Moderators: 2

Admins: 3

Administrators: Piquet, JMD, Rusty Floater

Moderators: cocorico, xcgb