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Triumph Cub 1960
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HowD1
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June 13, 2016 - 5:36 pm
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I think you're right Mags, but at least the muck stays put until a proper strip down.

So if Dimitris wants to get it running and he's obviously keen to do that, at least he should flush through out all the "loose" debris he can before trying to start it and try to keep the oil clean by changing it regularly.

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Mags 1
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June 13, 2016 - 8:30 pm
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I agree Rick, but what D was probably referring to was the coarse mesh filter where the pump picks the oil up at bottom of the crankcase.

You live and learn, Cub engine is much like my rebuilt recently, C15 one, so I really ought to have got this one right, first time around.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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dimitris
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June 14, 2016 - 6:13 am
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Mags 1 said
I agree Rick, but what D was probably referring to was the coarse mesh filter where the pump picks the oil up at bottom of the crankcase.

You live and learn, Cub engine is much like my rebuilt recently, C15 one, so I really ought to have got this one right, first time around.  

I removed one big bolt with attached filter, on the bottom of the engine, on the gearbox and pump side... 
(this one)

20160603_170217.jpg
I thought that was the crank filter showing in one of my diagrams... my bad.
Anyway, i flushed all oils possible, without sripdown, to try fire up. I will see what i will get, and take it for there..

Thanks for all the helpful comments.

By the way, just have a look the amazing results from electrolysis, on a totally rusted piece!!
I get amazed every time with this procedure..

20160609_124817_resized.jpg

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BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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dimitris
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June 16, 2016 - 5:56 pm
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I'ts ALIVE!!clapbow

Did some carton gasket for the carb, which stoped leaking, but some smoke is coming out from the cylinder/exhaust connection, that i have to sort out...
But, it fired up! I understand that there must be a trick to find the best compression/piston position while kicking..
It sounds really good though...fingers-crossedIt was  a big risk, since i bought it without see it running..cant-look

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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cocorico
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June 16, 2016 - 6:23 pm
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clapclapclapthumbs-up

What next?

The Bantam Club Forum - all the answers are in there.

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Sprung Chicken
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June 16, 2016 - 9:06 pm
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clapclapbravo_gif

Dougie;Glasgow ;Scotland.
1955 D1, 1970 B175

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Hans Kreuzen
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June 16, 2016 - 9:45 pm
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Great to seeclapand to think that you were trying to go to some Triumph forumrantingAll the help is right here.

Good luck with the rest of the project.

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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Velton
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June 16, 2016 - 11:37 pm
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Sounds pretty good to me!

Well done.

In terms of positioning the crank to kick start, there are various options - for example the Velocette technique assumes a very low kick start ratio. Several decades have passed since I last started a Cub.

Ideally, probably, you want the piston at the end of the exhaust stroke when you start - that way you get good induction and compression strokes and hopefully enough energy to start the power stroke with your boot delivering maximum oomph around the point of maximum compression; assuming that your kick-start ratio enables this!

Other opinions are available!

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Mags 1
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June 17, 2016 - 1:22 am
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I like to get my C15 (similar engine, just bigger) on compression stroke just before TDC, if it's gonna go, it usually will there, generally one good swing and she's away, trying a Mikuni at the moment, a much better carb and more response, but not so good for cold starting up. An "enrichment device" is fitted, in place of a proper choke.

We'll see.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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dimitris
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June 17, 2016 - 6:18 am
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Thanks for the tips!thumbs-up
Just forgot to check if the oil pump worksdoh

It fired up with the original coil, condenser and contact points (even spark plug embarassed), but i will renew those parts.
Also waiting for gasket set for the carburator. Now, i must learn how to set the timing on this...

And, i can start working on the frame, wheels, brakes, electrics etc.. There are years of dirt and old oils and some points need to be sanded down because of rust. As i said, this will not be a full restoration, just a clean up where possible.
One of the big issues, is the connection of the cylinder with the exhaust adaptor. The threads are gone, and i am planning to attach it there with the epoxy i used to fixed my d1 fins, the broken case of the D10, and still holding strong in both.
Of course, i understand the big risk of something ending up inside the cylinder.... i must concentrate to make the treatment on the outer side..dunno

20160608_195600.jpg

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BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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June 17, 2016 - 12:05 pm
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Dimitris. go to a plumbers merchant and ask for malable iron reducers like this I modified a similar problem years ago in this way, they go up to two inch in size or 50 mill if metric, you may find one that can get you out of trouble with a bit of modification ... good luck... Bob

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June 17, 2016 - 12:21 pm
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Dimitris.. ref; malleable reducer if you find one slightly larger as I did it cut into the original damaged thread and managed to make an interference fit that held as good as it gets, they also have barrel nipples that fit into the reducers.

A bit more expensive but less than a replacement barrel is ..take it to an engineers workshop they may be able to rethread a larger diameter or fit an helicoil to bring it back to original.

Have a good look through the plumbers fittings, you may spot a better mod.

Bob

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dimitris
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June 28, 2016 - 9:35 am
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Thanks Bob, i still have to do something with that, but didn't even manage to remove the connection from the exhaust pipe yet.
Will keep your advice in mind!!

Procedure is going well. Little slow..but i am not in a rush.
One reason that i don't want to finish with it, is that it keeps me busy...and away from another buy rofldoh

Fixed the broken switch, fixed the broken gear indicator, did some clean up, replaced the coil, refubrished the Horn..

Still have to deal with the steering, forks, wheels and engine polishing...

Wires, lights and connections need some care toodoh

20160627_164941_resized.jpg20160627_193257_resized.jpg20160627_203239_resized.jpg

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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cocorico
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June 28, 2016 - 3:55 pm
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Looking good Dimitris, I think I'd change that old selenium rectum frier though for a modern silicon one.

The Bantam Club Forum - all the answers are in there.

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dimitris
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June 28, 2016 - 6:00 pm
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cocorico said
Looking good Dimitris, I think I'd change that old selenium rectum frier though for a modern silicon one.  

You mean those square rectifiers right? I have 2 of those! The one is still on the D10, and have to replace it with the regulator/rectifier i got from Paxo a while ago..
That's another good advice..didn't even thought of it..embarassedcheers

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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dimitris
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July 5, 2016 - 7:09 am
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I decided to use my favourite Epoxy glue, to solve also the exhaust adaptor problem..dunno
(Maybe will go for more permanent solution if i take apart the engine/cylinder)
That glue was used to attach some fins on my D1's cylinder (still holding), and also on the D10's case, on the cluthc cable holding point (also OK).

dunno

20160704_165829.jpg

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BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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July 5, 2016 - 7:42 am
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Hi Dimitris.

If it stands the temperature thumbs-upGood job..

It has given me a solution for a cracked plastic side panel, on a Honda I have.tip-my-hat

As they say.."necessity is the Mother of all inventions"

Your nearly ready to burn rubber on them Cypriot roads.

Bob.

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dimitris
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July 5, 2016 - 8:06 am
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Hi Bob.** Please log in to view **. Really good on plastics also...!

Yes, i am in a good way, currently rebuilding/refreshing  the forks.. Discovered disconnected springs, a missing bush, and other exiting things.. clap
Will keep me busy for a while... (I hope!!)
The front side will be new after that, plus  the speedometer and horn repair, the switch repair and the gear indicator clip/switch. I really enjoy those little jobs!

20160629_191935.jpg20160630_183229.jpg20160705_220847_resized.jpg

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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dimitris
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July 22, 2016 - 7:00 am
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Finished some tasks on this project,

Tank is ready, Headlight with wiring and switch sorted out and working

Seat rebuilted,

Front forks rebuilted,

Currently wroking on the wheels, luckily found new tyres locally, waiting for the new bearings to fit...

Next, is the rear wheel, front and rear fenders, battery box, Tail electrics etc....
Also have to replace the contact point, but must be sure how i set the timing on this first..dunno

20160708_192903.jpg20160719_071304_resized.jpg20160721_185021_resized.jpgIMG-1468663224817-V-1.jpg20160709_152741.jpg

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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July 22, 2016 - 11:51 am
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Dimitris.

Looking good.... In fact I am a little jealous.

As I said earlier I had one many years ago and if I came across one I would love to do one as a project.

Also the cowling over the headlight and forks is a feature that suits the bike and sets it off a treat, a bit of a Triumph trade mark.

Just listened to the sound you posted, although it sounds OKAY I reckon when you have set engine finer it will give you a beautiful note that I recall from years ago, it may just be the echo's in your garage/ balcony being picked up.

I noticed on my lads D1 it sounds lovely naturally but listening to it but on video it sounds a bit noisy... can't wait to hear it when finished and out in the open.

Your building up quite a collection ..3 bikes, very good you will need to extend your Balcony or find a shed.thumbs-up

125cc-175cc-200cc, your going up in cc's next a big twin... I started at the age of 14 with a 98cc New Hudson, went right up to a 1600cc Kawasaki. and a few weird and wonderful bits in between. 

Dimitris did Cyprus ever produce a motorbike.?? We got French German Italian Russian American ,ETC ETC....? oh and China.

Bob.

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