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Triumph Cub 1960
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dimitris
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June 4, 2016 - 11:40 am
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Now that i have became Expert (embarassedrofl) on the Bantam 2-strokes, i decided it was the time to make my next step.
I found a Triumph Tiger Cub, of 1960, which i reject the first time since it wasn't running, but then i couldn't sleep good, so i went and picked it up (for around 1000 pounds). It was imported from UK many years ago, but never registered (still has the uk number plate on). Also has the old title, which shows only one owner except the guy he brought to Cyprus.

So, i stacked it on the elevator (!), and placed it on my workshop (that is my balcony). Not that i had an option, since my 2X1.5 storage is occupied by the D10doh

I found some manuals and part diagrams, and started slowly to take things apart..
I am planning to just bring it to working and safe condition, with no repainting, rechroming etc..Will have an original look, although it should be partly restored in some time back.

Drained the crankcase, the primary chain oil (very milky-water contaminated-owner told me the filler cup was not in place, and knew that), and gearbox   (almost empty)
Drained the Oil tank also, to check and clean the filters and all those pipes lubricating the engine..

Emptied the tank, put some vinegar to clean some rust, and dismantle Zenith carb also.
The electric equipment looks in bad shape (coil, rectifier) but i am planning to replace all of those.

Although not a priority, i also opened the Smith's round speedo, to check why needle was stucked, and mileage too low..
Not strange, since it was blocked by small pieces of old paint. Luckily, i opened it without braking the glass, and removed the sensitive needle without braking the axle's tip! Cleaned everything, put it back and i hope it will be ok. This speedo is more simple than the "D" shape one... 

I started making a list of the parts i will need to order, but still early for that.

I have lot of jobs to do, but i am not in a hurry.. It will keep me busy for some months i think...
If and when it fires up, will know if there is need to open, or rebuilt the engine. I want to give it a try myself, but if i find out it's out of my capabilities, i may take it to an "Expert"

to be continued...fingers-crossed

Dimitris

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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jess steele
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June 4, 2016 - 12:18 pm
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That's a good buy for a grand,i know that bike would fetch more over here,get it running and just polish and touch up the cycle parts it'll always be worth more that way,but as always it's your bike to do as you please.

I can't wait for the next instalment on getting it running.good luck with it...thumbs-up

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Hans Kreuzen
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June 4, 2016 - 1:22 pm
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Looks like a great project, Keep us postedthumbs-up And good luckfingers-crossed

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, Black 1953 D1 plunger nearly done and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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Velton
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June 4, 2016 - 1:41 pm
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Looks like a great little project.

Why not check all the obvious bits like fuel. oils, points etc and see whether she will run?

You might just find that the coils etc. are OK after you clean up all the connections and contacts.

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dimitris
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June 4, 2016 - 3:15 pm
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Yes, I will soon try to start it, but want to clean fuel tank/carb first, be sure it has clean oil supply, and clean or renew some connections/wires to have better chances for it...thumbs-up

jess steele said
That's a good buy for a grand,i know that bike would fetch more over here,get it running and just polish and touch up the cycle parts it'll always be worth more that way,but as always it's your bike to do as you please.

 

I will definitely  keep this as it is, with original look thumbs-up
Costs lower, and looks coolerclap

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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BSAdave
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June 4, 2016 - 5:34 pm
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clapthumbs-up looks a good one. will you be able to handle all that extra power ? lol

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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dimitris
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June 8, 2016 - 6:50 am
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Drained the oils (twice), cleaned the carburator, cleaning the tank from rust (+electorlysis), checked oil pipes, fixed the stacked speedo and painted, replaced all fibre washers on draining/filling screws and fill with new oils.

When i put back the tank and carb, i need to sort the electrics, and try to fire upfingers-crossed
I allready have a long shopping list

20160604_111418.jpg20160607_202940.jpg20160608_070721.jpg20160607_202912.jpg

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BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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MOSOGER
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June 8, 2016 - 12:46 pm
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Hi Dimitris.

Like jess said the price is good it's complete, bit jealous I have been looking for a half decent one myself.

For your initial start just hot wire it as we spoke when you were doing the D10.

Just a little warning. !!!! ... if you get the urge to bump start it, make sure your sitting on it and someone is pushing.

Off the top of my head I believe the engine is something like 22 to one compression ratio and even is second gear it will want to run away faster than you.

Believe me as I have been there years ago, one dragged me up the road trying to bump start it, and if it wasn't for the hedge row stopping me I would still be hanging off it now.wow.

Keep the updates coming cant wait to hear it running.

Bob

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Velton
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June 9, 2016 - 12:18 am
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"I believe the engine is something like 22 to one compression ratio "

Really, Mosoger?

I thought it was 9:1 on the Sports Model and less on the basic model.

You're right about the way they can take off when bump starting though.

Proper little rocket for the first few yards!

Wikpedia says

** Please log in to view ** T20 Sports 9:1, T20 and T15 7:1** Please log in to view **
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June 9, 2016 - 1:15 am
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"I believe the engine is something like 22 to one compression ratio "

Hi Velton cheer's for correcting me, 22 is a bit off the mark even as a Guess.thumbs-upread-manual

Now I remember.... 22 is my IQ and that's probably an exaggeration.... rofl

Bob.

PS if any one spots a similar cub, complete for a grand, Please give me a shout.

Mosoger

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dimitris
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June 9, 2016 - 6:31 am
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MOSOGER said
Hi Dimitris.

For your initial start just hot wire it as we spoke when you were doing the D10.

Just a little warning. !!!! ... if you get the urge to bump start it, make sure your sitting on it and someone is pushing.

Bob  

Hi Bob and others!

I don't think i have other option for it, because there are lots of loose wires coming from the switch, so i think better to bypass it for now.
As for the bump start, i have another problem... BIKE IS ON THE BALCONY...so it should either start by kick start, or.... wait for this to happen in another stage..dunno
Finished with cleaning the tank (came up really good!) and put some fresh petrol inside to keep it from rusting again.
I checked all the oil lines, so just need to put basic components back in place, fill the oil tank, the battery...and....see what i will get!
I just remembered, that i saw a dream last night, that it fired up first kick!!!!dohwhistle
20160608_203017_resized.jpg

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BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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BSAdave
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June 9, 2016 - 9:00 am
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Now you have the tank cleaned I would seal it, using the electrolysis method works well but it will soon resort back to rust if you don't seal it . Modern petrol contains ethanol and as we all know ethanol is hygroscopic.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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dimitris
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June 9, 2016 - 11:24 am
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BSAdave said
Now you have the tank cleaned I would seal it, using the electrolysis method works well but it will soon resort back to rust if you don't seal it . Modern petrol contains ethanol and as we all know ethanol is hygroscopic.  

I will probably do that, but first i want to see if i can get it running.

Really, what petroil do you guys use on these bikes??

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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June 9, 2016 - 5:04 pm
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"as we all know ethanol is hygroscopic" Dave I have no clue what hydroscopic means ???.

Dimitris the cub has a separate oil container as you have realised by now , so no need to mix "petroil" just ordinary petrol will work.

That last sentence will surely start a massive debate about additives octanes, and probably a bunch of words I have never heard of.

If you Google " difference between leaded and un leaded petrol that will keep you busy for a couple of nights, then make your own mind up.

But for an initial start a bit of ordinary fuel will do fine.

roflyes the balcony is a BIT of a restriction on bump-starts.wowso make sure it's not in gear it may start first kick.cant-look

  check this out on u-tube.cant-look

Bob

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dimitris
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June 9, 2016 - 7:37 pm
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Yes...i wanted to write "petrol" thumbs-up
I put ordinary unleaded 95 on the tank..but then said to my self "wait a second, this is different kind of engine!"
The good news is that after connecting the battery (-) directly to the coil, bypassing the switch... I HAVE SPARKclap
I have an issue with the exhaust pipe's adaptor to the cylinder, which comes out really easy because of ruined threads (i think on the cylinder sidedoh), but i thing at least i can see if it runs soon.

Wheel chain is out, not only for safety reasons, but because it needs a good cleaning and anti-rust treatment embarassed

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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cocorico
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June 9, 2016 - 8:37 pm
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It would originally have run on leaded petrol. Running on lead free will probably eventually lead to erosion of the valve seats as the lead used to provide some cooling to them. Short term you shouldn't have a problem, but longer term you may want to use a lead-replacement additive.

The Bantam Club Forum - all the answers are in there.

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HowD1
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June 10, 2016 - 1:14 pm
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Hi Dimitris

A good buy - very popular here and prices rising fast.

just a thought - did you remove the oil tank and really flush it out thoroughly? There's often a sticky sludge in the bottom that is tricky to remove so use some fuel or kerosene to really wash it out and get it spotless. I would flush the engine through as well as you must have a decent oil supply to the pump for it to do it's job - the timing side bearing is a plain bearing as is the big end and they both need a decent, clean supply of oil. There's a strainer in the crankcase through which the oil is sucked up and pumped back to the oil tank. It all needs to be clean!

I've emailed some stuff to you that might be useful if you haven't already got them.

Rick

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dimitris
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June 11, 2016 - 10:18 am
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Thanks Bob..so no worries for the moment..

Welcome Ricky!

Now...I did washed oil tank!! And indeed was lik a swamp in there

I flushed gearbox and chain side. Also crank filter and disconnected oil pipes below and above to check. Maybe last part must do it again now...

Didnt see any email.i have the owners manual and parts diagrams..

D.

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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June 11, 2016 - 10:28 am
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Dimitris

the files I sent you may have been too big so I've sent part of it again. 

R

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Mags 1
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June 11, 2016 - 12:49 pm
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dimitriscy said

I flushed gearbox and chain side. Also crank filter 

D.  

The "filter" in the crank is a centrifugal one, a sludge trap, when it revolves, heavier than oil, dirt, is flung outward into a dead end in one of the webs.

Crank has to come out for this job!

Or have I made a mistake here?

I have two frames and parts of five engines, but not one complete bike, I'm still looking for front mudguards, chainguards, engine cases, wheels, etc.

Good luck with your bike D.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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