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July 3, 2014
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Forgive me Bantamites for I have sinned - my head has been turned to the dark (4-stroke) side.
A friend of mine roared around on a small Panther special he build which I weirdly always admired. When he decided to sell it I just had to have it. Now when I say Panther it's actually a mixture of odd parts bolted to a Panther model 10/3 frame. Originally it would have been fitted with a Villers 2-stroke engine but my friend fitted it with a BSA C15/B25 250cc engine & oil tank, a Triumph fuel tank, single sprung seat & an MZ disc brake.
Now I know what you are thinking - it's a really tatty looking, noisy bike verging on ugly - so why!
Well it's an absolute hoot to ride. The BSA engine starts easily and pulls really strongly. The odd front link suspension handles nicely & it's surprisingly comfortable to ride. My friend built it to attend bike rallies so it has good luggage capacity & the large Triumph tank gives it good range. Plus the disc brake pulls the bike up smartly. You do need to wear ear plugs though.
I plan to leave it pretty much as it is & just enjoy riding it. Just thought you might like to see it?
Thinking of calling it a Panzer (Panther/Beezer) - unless you have any other suggestions (just keep them kind).
CU Broadsman
D3 Trials, D14 and a couple of Panthers
March 14, 2019
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I like it
Best of both worlds good engine comfy what more could you want
Nathan
June 23, 2013
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YOU like it - that's all that matters. Personally, I could easily find room for something like that; quirky, different from the run of the mill and quick enough for everyday road conditions.
1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine now running.
January 9, 2013
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very nice well werth the rebild ,older frames wert bílt for frunt Dics braks but as we are serpos to use the back just befor the frunt brake very nice
July 3, 2014
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Thank you all for your supportive comments & I do have an electrical oddity that members might be able to throw some light on...
It's running 12 volt electrics, has a new 12V battery, new reg/rect & everything works fine - loud horn, great lights & it starts & runs fine.
I checked the battery with a meter & it's showing 12-12.5 volts when ignition is off & a healthy 13-13.5 volts charge when running. Plus Iv'e never had to charge the battery.
But the odd thing is that the Amp meter never shows a positive charge when the engine is running at all? It shows negative if you put the lights on - as you would expect. But it doesn't ever show a positive charge or any needle movement when running.
I swapped the Amp meter for one that I know to work but it did the same - so I don't think it's the meter.
It's running fine in all other respects so I curious as to why I might be getting no positive amp meter reading? Any thoughts??
D3 Trials, D14 and a couple of Panthers
January 9, 2013
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it sounds like its good 13.5 is good ,, most amp meters are rated at cars so thats wy ther not fited to lots of motor/cycles so thats wiy its good
January 24, 2012
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Broadsman said
I swapped the Amp meter for one that I know to work but it did the same - so I don't think it's the meter.
It's running fine in all other respects so I curious as to why I might be getting no positive amp meter reading? Any thoughts??
Wotcha.
I would say the wire from the regulator/rectifier has been put on the same side of the ammeter as the wire which carries the current to the lights / ignition etc. That way, the meter will show discharge, but will not show charge.
^..^
September 28, 2011
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I like it, I was bidding on it in July when it sold on ebay, was it your friend that sold it on ebay ?
July 3, 2014
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Hi Lone Wolf & Bart,
Lone Wolf - Thanks for your thoughts on my Amp Meter problem & your suggestion about incorrect wiring makes complete sense. Over winter I plan to tidy it up a bit & I'll take a close look at the wiring then - much appreciated.
Bart - Yes it's the same bike you saw on eBay in July.
I'm in the Panther Owners Club, previously knew the owner & had seen the bike running at local events. We don't live far apart & he had helped me with some Bantam welding in the past. However I wasn't aware he was selling the bike until I also saw it advertised on eBay. I bid & luckily won the auction.
I can't say I've ever had so much attention from a bike when it's parked up - no one knows exactly what it is!
Have since put a baffle in the exhaust & it's marginally quieter now.
CU Broadsman
D3 Trials, D14 and a couple of Panthers
April 16, 2020
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Broadsman - If I'd had a chance of buying a bike like that and could have afforded it, I'd have bitten the seller's arm off!! And I think the name 'Panzer' is just perfect 
The only thing I'd consider doing would be a paint job like this:-
. . . but that's just me all over!
PS - I'm still jealous!
Jack
April 16, 2020
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sunny said
very nice well werth the rebild ,older frames wert bílt for frunt Dics braks but as we are serpos to use the back just befor the frunt brake very nice
Sunny - why are we supposed to use the back brake before the front? When we brake, the weight of bike and rider tips forwards, so lifting some weight off the back tyre, and adding to that on the front - meaning that applying the back brake before the front is more likely to make the back wheel skid, especially if you're banked over at the time.
Re. disc brakes on old frames; surely the main load from a disc brake is on the front forks, and that Earles design is noted for being very strong - far stronger, in fact, than a typical telescopic. Back in the 50s, 60s and early 70s I remember fitting that design of front forks onto road racing and scrambles outfits was a favourite mod (either from a BMW, Cotton or DOT).
With best regards,
Jack
April 16, 2020
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Broadsman said
Thank you all for your supportive comments & I do have an electrical oddity that members might be able to throw some light on...It's running 12 volt electrics, has a new 12V battery, new reg/rect & everything works fine - loud horn, great lights & it starts & runs fine.
I checked the battery with a meter & it's showing 12-12.5 volts when ignition is off & a healthy 13-13.5 volts charge when running. Plus Iv'e never had to charge the battery.
But the odd thing is that the Amp meter never shows a positive charge when the engine is running at all? It shows negative if you put the lights on - as you would expect. But it doesn't ever show a positive charge or any needle movement when running.
I swapped the Amp meter for one that I know to work but it did the same - so I don't think it's the meter.
It's running fine in all other respects so I curious as to why I might be getting no positive amp meter reading? Any thoughts??
I've had a look at a late model wiring diagram for a B.40 (same as late model C.15), and a I can't see any way that the ammeter would behave like that unless it was wrongly connected. It looks possible that it's been wired between the light switch and the lights, instead of having one terminal connected to the battery, and the other to the connection between the rectifier and the light switch. The voltage readings you have, though, clearly indicate that the charging system is correctly wired, and doing its job.
HTH, and best regards,
Jack
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