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Odd Ball Panther
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Broadsman
Cromer Norfolk
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September 29, 2019 - 9:13 pm
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Forgive me Bantamites for I have sinned - my head has been turned to the dark (4-stroke) side.

A friend of mine roared around on a small Panther special he build which I weirdly always admired. When he decided to sell it I just had to have it. Now when I say Panther it's actually a mixture of odd parts bolted to a Panther model 10/3 frame. Originally it would have been fitted with a Villers 2-stroke engine but my friend fitted it with a BSA C15/B25 250cc engine & oil tank, a Triumph fuel tank, single sprung seat & an MZ disc brake. 

Odd-Ball.jpg

Now I know what you are thinking - it's a really tatty looking, noisy bike verging on ugly - so why!

Well it's an absolute hoot to ride. The BSA engine starts easily and pulls really strongly. The odd front link suspension handles nicely & it's surprisingly comfortable to ride. My friend built it to attend bike rallies so it has good luggage capacity & the large Triumph tank gives it good range. Plus the disc brake pulls the bike up smartly. You do need to wear ear plugs though.

I plan to leave it pretty much as it is & just enjoy riding it. Just thought you might like to see it?

Thinking of calling it a Panzer (Panther/Beezer) - unless you have any other suggestions (just keep them kind).

CU Broadsman

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D3 Trials, D14 and a couple of Panthers

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N.D.James
Swansea
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September 29, 2019 - 9:34 pm
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I like it 

Best of both worlds good engine comfy what more could you want 

 

Nathan

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cocorico
Central France
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September 30, 2019 - 8:12 am
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YOU like it - that's all that matters. Personally, I could easily find room for something like that; quirky, different from the run of the mill and quick enough for everyday road conditions.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine now running.

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sunny
Norfolk
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September 30, 2019 - 9:14 am
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very   nice    well werth   the  rebild     ,older   frames  wert  bílt  for  frunt   Dics  braks   but  as  we are  serpos  to  use  the  back  just  befor the  frunt brake       very   nice

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Broadsman
Cromer Norfolk
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September 30, 2019 - 11:39 am
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Thank you all for your supportive comments & I do have an electrical oddity that members might be able to throw some light on...

It's running 12 volt electrics, has a new 12V battery, new reg/rect & everything works fine - loud horn, great lights & it starts & runs fine.

I checked the battery with a meter & it's showing 12-12.5 volts when ignition is off & a healthy 13-13.5 volts charge when running.  Plus Iv'e never had to charge the battery.

But the odd thing is that the Amp meter never shows a positive charge when the engine is running at all? It shows negative if you put the lights on - as you would expect. But it doesn't ever show a positive charge or any needle movement when running.

I swapped the Amp meter for one that I know to work but it did the same - so I don't think it's the meter.

It's running fine in all other respects so I curious as to why I might be getting no positive amp meter reading? Any thoughts??

D3 Trials, D14 and a couple of Panthers

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sunny
Norfolk
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September 30, 2019 - 11:50 am
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it  sounds  like   its   good     13.5  is  good     ,,  most  amp  meters   are  rated   at   cars    so  thats   wy   ther  not   fited   to   lots   of  motor/cycles   so thats   wiy    its  good   

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Lone Wolf
The Black Country
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September 30, 2019 - 8:37 pm
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Broadsman said

I swapped the Amp meter for one that I know to work but it did the same - so I don't think it's the meter.

It's running fine in all other respects so I curious as to why I might be getting no positive amp meter reading? Any thoughts??  

Wotcha.

I would say the wire from the regulator/rectifier has been put on the same side of the ammeter as the wire which carries the current to the lights / ignition etc.   That way, the meter will show discharge, but will not show charge.

^..^

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bart
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September 30, 2019 - 9:50 pm
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I like it, I was bidding on it in July when it sold on ebay,     was it your friend that sold it on ebay ?

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Broadsman
Cromer Norfolk
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October 1, 2019 - 2:01 pm
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Hi Lone Wolf & Bart,

Lone Wolf - Thanks for your thoughts on my Amp Meter problem & your suggestion about incorrect wiring makes complete sense. Over winter I plan to tidy it up a bit & I'll take a close look at the wiring then - much appreciated.

Bart - Yes it's the same bike you saw on eBay in July.

I'm in the Panther Owners Club, previously knew the owner & had seen the bike running at local events. We don't live far apart & he had helped me with some Bantam welding in the past. However I wasn't aware he was selling the bike until I also saw it advertised on eBay. I bid & luckily won the auction.

I can't say I've ever had so much attention from a bike when it's parked up - no one knows exactly what it is!  

Have since put a baffle in the exhaust & it's marginally quieter now.

CU Broadsman

D3 Trials, D14 and a couple of Panthers

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JackE
Buxton, Derbyshire
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April 25, 2020 - 5:14 am
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Broadsman - If I'd had a chance of buying a bike like that and could have afforded it, I'd have bitten the seller's arm off!!  And I think the name 'Panzer' is just perfect cool

The only thing I'd consider doing would be a paint job like this:-

Army-Matchless.jpg

 . . . but that's just me all over!

PS - I'm still jealous!

Jack

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JackE
Buxton, Derbyshire
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April 25, 2020 - 5:26 am
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sunny said
very   nice    well werth   the  rebild     ,older   frames  wert  bílt  for  frunt   Dics  braks   but  as  we are  serpos  to  use  the  back  just  befor the  frunt brake       very   nice  

Sunny - why are we supposed to use the back brake before the front?  When we brake, the weight of bike and rider tips forwards, so lifting some weight off the back tyre, and adding to that on the front - meaning that applying the back brake before the front is more likely to make the back wheel skid, especially if you're banked over at the time.

Re. disc brakes on old frames;  surely the main load from a disc brake is on the front forks, and that Earles design is noted for being very strong - far stronger, in fact, than a typical telescopic.  Back in the 50s, 60s and early 70s I remember fitting that design of front forks onto road racing and scrambles outfits was a favourite mod (either from a BMW, Cotton or DOT). 

With best regards,

Jack

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JackE
Buxton, Derbyshire
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April 25, 2020 - 5:58 am
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Broadsman said
Thank you all for your supportive comments & I do have an electrical oddity that members might be able to throw some light on...

It's running 12 volt electrics, has a new 12V battery, new reg/rect & everything works fine - loud horn, great lights & it starts & runs fine.

I checked the battery with a meter & it's showing 12-12.5 volts when ignition is off & a healthy 13-13.5 volts charge when running.  Plus Iv'e never had to charge the battery.

But the odd thing is that the Amp meter never shows a positive charge when the engine is running at all? It shows negative if you put the lights on - as you would expect. But it doesn't ever show a positive charge or any needle movement when running.

I swapped the Amp meter for one that I know to work but it did the same - so I don't think it's the meter.

It's running fine in all other respects so I curious as to why I might be getting no positive amp meter reading? Any thoughts??  

I've had a look at a late model wiring diagram for a B.40 (same as late model C.15), and a I can't see any way that the ammeter would behave like that unless it was wrongly connected.  It looks possible that it's been wired between the light switch and the lights, instead of having one terminal connected to the battery, and the other to the connection between the rectifier and the light switch.  The voltage readings you have, though, clearly indicate that the charging system is correctly wired, and doing its job.

HTH, and best regards,

Jack

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