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Honda CD175 twin, four stroke of 1972 vintage.
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Mags 1
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May 1, 2019 - 6:37 pm
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Crowbar left its own signs of use though.

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But you can't rely on tattered rubbish like this to presrve life.

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Doesn't take long to cut and bend a bit of sixteenth inch mild steel sheet to suit.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 1, 2019 - 6:44 pm
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Whether to have this edge inside, outside or flush was a time to pause and think a while, but inside made it less obtrusive.

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I was pleasantly surprised to find that the grey primer can be welded to, I wasn't looking forward to removing it around all the joints, but it was fine.

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I found that by utilising a 150 watt halogen lamp at work height, I could really see a lot better before striking first arc, other repairs to a D14 Sport humped seat base here.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 1, 2019 - 6:57 pm
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Half an eggcupful of paint stripper was plenty to remove the front brake plate varnish.

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Some very worn out wire wool was just the job to polish the ally up afterwards.

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Solvol and soft cotton rag gave a very nice finish, which I'll be painting over...

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 1, 2019 - 7:04 pm
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141 mill is the maximum size of drum according to these words, so I measured up.

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Which leaves about .75 of a mill left for skimming, not a lot, I imagine it's so as shoes still do their job.

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I removed most of the rust with some coarse wet or dry paper and felt quite happy with that.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 1, 2019 - 7:10 pm
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Next job was to fill in the damaged front hub face, the whole reason I'm having to paint both hubs and cover plates.

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Getting there, once the ally begins to show through a much finer grade of paper is a good idea.

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A shame really, to cover that lovely polished ally up, but no other way can I make both wheels and hubs identical in finish.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 5, 2019 - 9:17 pm
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I sprayed all of the rear hub, despite a lot of it being covered by this plastic ring, the sprocket covers the cush drive area also, a pity Bantams didn't merit a similar device, I often think.

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Without bothering to check on whether new ones are available, I decided to try cleaning this old one up, I have another looking slightly better, but a split right across it does spoil the effect.

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Spent a while with different grades of wet or dry paper before primering and rattle canning two coats of gloss black on. I can hope to source a new one, at who knows what cost, or I can go for the 'ragged but original' one, will review prices of new later.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 5, 2019 - 9:29 pm
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The exhaust finned clamps came out better than I expected, this wheel silver paint seems to like cast iron better than the ally that it's composed of.

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Both hubs seem fine, a coat or two of clear lacquer will stop the elements from ruining things a bit longer, at least everything will now match up.

I use Devon Rim Co. (usual disclaimers) and notice their site uses a standard A4 sheet download for the buyer to fill in now before ordering (Honda anyway) rims and spoke sets, so much info is required now, from how many times spokes cross each other, size in mm of spoke holes, distance apart of hub flanges etc, also no hardware is returnable now?

I will need to have a think before I decide where I buy my next lot.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 5, 2019 - 9:38 pm
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Rattle can paint I use is so thin, looks like acrylic, but can doesn't actually say, only 'compatible with acrylic' two of primer and two of gloss here, I'm thinking of using the Aldi  1litre tin I bought months ago and adding some ordinary thinner to see if I can get better coverage, the Aldi paint has its own varnish included and can be used on treated rust etc. the rattle cans are a good bargain at #2.99 each, but it's finding the stuff that's the problem, they market it as a 'special buy' about twice a year, but only about 10 to 20 cans is their quota, it seems?

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 7, 2019 - 11:27 pm
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One hasty mistake means a lot more work to cover it up, but at least all the other unsightly marks have gone.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 10, 2019 - 11:52 pm
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A pair of soft bar grips came a few days ago, very like the originals.

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Due to my forgetfullness, I'd made a short list of next jobs on the bike, front forks was one, deciding on a useable rear mudguard was another, I poured some fresh petrol into a bowl and washed the ally lower legs down well, in preparation for work on them.

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I have two pairs to choose from luckily, but this one didn't make it.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 10, 2019 - 11:58 pm
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This was the best pair, both pairs had different numbers, other set had been beaten about this area.

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I like to use these soft foam filled sanding pads, you can use them with warm water and a trace of washing up liquid too if you wish, but I generally use them dry.

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Time and elbow grease are main requisites...but you can do only so much sanding before item loses its shape, if you're not careful, a dab of filler might have helped here.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 11, 2019 - 12:05 am
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Job was going fairly well until I noticed more damage on the mounting lugs, had to use a needle file to begin getting back to decent metal.

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My local paint supply depot were selling these pads off at two for a quid if I remember correctly, using water and detergent may well have prevented the ally build up and subsequent clogging of grit.

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An hour later perhaps, I could see the fruits of my labour, a wash down with clean towelling and thinner and I was ready to apply first coat of primer.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 11, 2019 - 12:13 am
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Have always been a bit cautious about painting ally, but two coats went on well and dried quite quickly too.

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Checked the four springs, but there seemed to be very little difference, in length anyway. I chose the cleaner ones.

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The four stantions all had blemishes of some sort, a small area of corrosion like this can be gently massaged away, but long, even if shallow, grooves in the material are another case altogether and are best avoided

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 11, 2019 - 12:25 am
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I doubt even new seals could cope wiuth this sort of wear.

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The bottom ends are very important too, this one looks in good order.

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Whereas this one is decidedly worse for wear, fine grit appears to have got into system via a broken seal I surmised, or maybe even chrome from upper stanchion leg.

I'm not rich enough to replace every suspect part with new or modern copies even, I intend to replace normal service items like bearings and seals, fasteners etc. welding repairs where needed, some new paint and a good look at the ancient wiring harness is basically going to be my limit I believe at this stage, but "circumstances alter cases" as somebody once said a while ago, it may well come about on this rebuild too, for all I know at present.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 12, 2019 - 12:31 am
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Previous owner had cut out a roughly 7 by 3 inch oblong hole in this rear 'guard I purchased from him in a job lot. It's still in much better condition than the one I took off the bike though.

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It would have been a nine inch long piece he cut if he'd included this holey area lower down.

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Glassfibring over places like this just isn't on for me.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 12, 2019 - 12:38 am
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1mm seemed to be the thickness of steel used on 'guard, the only suiutable piece I could find in shed was from an old trailer mudguard, fitting perhaps.

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Galvanising was still intact on other side.

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I cut the piece out I needed fairly amply, an extra half inch all round doesn't hurt, besides, not many folk can or do actually cut such holes accurately, or square.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 12, 2019 - 12:51 am
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I use an old pair of Gilbow sheet cutting shears, which are still very good, but they do leave some bends and distortion that needs staightening out first, had to use a file and shears again to get final loose fit, you don't want it tight at all because as metal heats up it expands etc.

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Had to put both a lengthwise and side to side slight bends in metal to suit surrounding matetial, I then had to get out the trusty Black and Decker mini belt sander to clean up edges of both 'guard and new material, both sides of course.

Firing up mig welder, it didn't take very long to put a dozen quick spots of weld material every inch or so, which I then followed up, after tapping metal flush and level as I went, with more every half inch then more between them.

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Again, both sides of 'guard, I followed this up with running a full small bead of weld joining all the little spots up, again both sides.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 12, 2019 - 12:59 am
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It's easy to blame youyrself at this stage and think it's never going to be any good etc. but you have to stick at it and persevere, even where the metal is rusted away and so thin that mig wire burns through. Simply let it cool down and have another go on the other side.

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One side often looks slightly(!) better than the other.

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Moving the heavy hydro table outside for just a few minutes grinding was a waste of time, so I made do with my old pub chair.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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May 12, 2019 - 1:13 am
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Once you get to the point where you can't see daylight any longer you can plug the angle grinder in and don the full face shield and get things flattened out again.

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I was doing this between showers, so some shots were indoors, but you get the general idea here I hope, you can take quite a bit of metal off if you must, but without making metal too thin to weld again, if needed, but if all is good, you can now get the whole thing blasted to get rid of corrosion and rust, before painting with primer.

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I leaned on the grinder a bit too hard here and opened up the blown through old holes again, the wheel on the grinder is getting too small also to be effective inside 'guard, I'll put a new one on and try again when I'm ready. 

The good thing about such repairs is that you can't go too wrong really, your grinder is like an eraser to rub out past mistakes and your welder is your fresh start again, with hopefully a tad more experience than last time around.

Body filler to finish is a great way to smooth out mistakes that everyone makes, finally, before painting.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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jolon1
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May 13, 2019 - 10:20 am
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Hi Mags, You deserve a medal for what you have done, so far. You must have loads of patience. Good luck with the rest of the restoration. clap

D7 & D1 Racer

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