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Honda CD175 twin, four stroke of 1972 vintage.
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Mags 1
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March 15, 2019 - 6:54 pm
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I do hate waste, but ended up by making a lot of extra work in trying to make this piece round again, I really ought to have cut it in half to where the undamaged area was...

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At least it finally went on at a non binding nice fit, I thought about Aralditing it on...

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I have no idea whether this stuff is metric or imperial size, but a tad loose over leg but a tad too tight inside steel protective outer sleeve.

What could I do next?

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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March 15, 2019 - 7:04 pm
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We have the technology...it's just amazing the jobs you can do with even a basic or maybe worn out lathe, I like to use carbide bits, they stay very sharp even with such temperamental stuff as this.

What I didn't have was a pipe or tube extension for the tailstock, so that free spinning end was supported. Tube came flying off as I tried to square the end up and one snapped carbide bit in the bin later, I decide to try finding a way to make sure least amount of movement was occuring that end.

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Old Bantam mainshaft bearings are a tight hammer fit into the tube, if you wait long enough, almost everything is re-usable! Glad I can insinuate odd Bantam bits in here now and again.

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Wall thickness is only about a sixteenth, so I have to go carefully, fit of tube on leg and inside cover are crucial also.

I may even have a look at the two Honda sites I've been recommended to by Blue and Bart and see how much new ones are.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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March 18, 2019 - 11:16 am
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Often on such old (and badly stored) stuff, you're faced with taking on items like this that look better than your old ones and in original paint etc, the shock comes when you find snapped off screws and various bodged attempts at quick, impatient, original strip downs of bikes and items, not a lot worth keeping here, except speedo and cowling maybe.

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They hardly look like reflector retaining clips anymore, other bit is remains of snapped off rim retaining screw.

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Remains of beam adjuster, despite wire brush and lubricant, two pairs of pliers used as spanners were too much for the tiny 3 mill threads.

A 'nut and bolt' rebuild should mean that.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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March 18, 2019 - 11:28 am
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If I can't find a better one, I may just be needing this again. It soon looked better after a brief wire brushing.

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I used an extra large pair of pump type pliers to compress both steel spring clips at once, that alone, hold speedo in place. 

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It's a rough road, trying to make good out of mostly junk parts, I tried a small slotted screwdriver in cable hole and tried to rotate it, to see if speedo nedle moved, it was stuck solid.

Once again, the trusty WD40 was sprayed in and allowed to work its way into affected parts, not too much though, I don't want it getting into the instrumentation part.

The CD175 certainly is a different prospect to my usual Bantam fare, but many of the problems and pitfalls are very similar.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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March 19, 2019 - 10:03 pm
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Amidst the doom and gloom, there are happier moments, say for instance checking part no's and Honda stockist's lists for new/pattern parts, the dip in the bank balance all seems good simply because the bike is an 'investment'...!

A pair of downpipes, two copper gaskets to suit, a set of both front and back brake shoes, not needed yet awhile, but eventually almost certainly. A new centre stand spring will go well with the secondhand stand I purchased and actually fitted just before I stripped the frame out, 'C' piece that it connects to is needed also. The 'C' piece is very similar to that fitted to Bantam D1s and BSA C15s, I wonder why, maybe Honda just couldn't improve on it?

At least most British old iron used identical or very similar shoes on front and back hubs, one thing Honda didn't seem to think necessary?

A new inlet needle and seat for the Keihin carb came also, you can't really rely on such old carb parts to be still metering fuel correctly after such a length of time and amount of fuel passed in 20 thousand miles.

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A chap on Facebook advised us to drill out the two punch marks on the chromed outer sleeves here, I did so with an eighth bit then sprayed WD40 into tube/stanchion join, not a drop could filter down through the ally oxide swollen lower legs.

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Now have two speedos, problem is that best looking one is seized, Smith's speedo's on Bantams are hard enough to strip out without breaking the thin glass lens, but I don't fancy tackling the odd shaped Honda item, just yet, anyway.

I will have to try getting the seized one going.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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March 20, 2019 - 8:30 pm
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The 6 inch I think, BPF Lucas type reflector does fit the Honda rim, and looks a lot better than the dull old things I have.

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But just how you'd manage to incorporate the original Honda beam adjuster onto it, I don't know.

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If it fits a Bantam or Cub it's certainly worth more than seven fifty to me.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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March 20, 2019 - 8:38 pm
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Once I get the drills, taps and auto punches working, I often look for more distressed items to fix, a good thing about 'doing your own thing' is lots of time doing whatever takes your fancy, even such mundane stuff like drilling out and re-tapping broken off screws etc.

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I have a spare of 1975 vintage PO told me, but there a few subtle differences here, larger top mounting holes may well be for extra large rubber washers to save bulb filaments  vibrating away etc. but I'll blast and re-paint boh and have a choice then.

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Clean a a whistle, now awaiting paint stripper and sand blaster, paint gun etc.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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March 20, 2019 - 8:47 pm
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I somehow thought that the top chainguard was incorrect, grey primered bottom item was sold to me in an ebay job lot, seller didn't actually mention whether or not it was for the CD, but I then wonder just why it was pictured and sold with rest, if not.

It appears now that original is correct, it's just that lower half is missing, a common enough fault on lots of bikes I've now seen since surfin' the net etc.

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It'll need lots of work though, captive nut disappeared because it was seized onto bolt holding it all on. Not a big job to cut out rubbish, let new metal in then weld another 10 mill nut on.

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I think it's bent, also, paint stripping, sand blasting etc etc. wiull all take time and patience, it's such a good job that engine was going well at strip down, not much thick, black, oil remained in the sump though...

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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stubaker58
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March 21, 2019 - 7:42 am
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Keep up the good work Mags, it will be worth it in the end!

That lower chainguard looks similar to the one from my CB250 .... could it be from the CB version of the 175, the “sporty” one usually in green?

Back in the seventies I remember looking down my nose at the CD175 as I sat astride my D14, how wrong I was, as you say the engineering on the Honda is in another league.

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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Mags 1
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March 21, 2019 - 6:34 pm
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Thank you Stubaker for your interest and encouragement, much appreciated.

Could well be as you say, although I'm a bit out of touch with the bigger Honda stuff.

Was paint stripping the main frame today, no primer or undercoat, but maybe two very thin gloss coats is about all makers seem to have bothered with, on this particular bike.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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March 21, 2019 - 7:47 pm
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Anyone who's used a lathe for any proper work, will soon tell you that most accurate, but not always the easiest method of turning, is by turning between two centres, tubing, or loosely, anything with a hollow centre is more easily machined by being mounted upon a mandrel, which is the subject of my first pic, which I made a few days ago from a lump of scrap I had laying around, luckily.

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I simply machined the piece down to slightly less than the internal diameter of the stainless tube, the centre drill bit accurately makes the 60 degree bevelled holes each end, which the live and dead cenres use as a bearing point whilst machining anything mounted onto mandrel now created.

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I made the mandrel as big or long as I was able, but I'd forgotten about last machining process of squaring up very ends would produce a burr on stainless, which would be quite difficult to get past the ally mandrel, no matter which end I tried to remove it from.

The green tape by the way, was the first thought of method of driving the mandrel, simply because the 2 plus inch size of tube didn't leave much rom to install a smaller lathe dog, which is a type of clamp used on work to catch the drive from the headstock area. 

Tape snapped twice on first tube, so I utilised an ordinary Terry type hose clip, which was a much better proposition.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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March 21, 2019 - 8:00 pm
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One pair finished, I priced new ones up on the Dutch Honda site, nearly £55 each, plus postage and vat! I don't think so, I may even be able to make some sets up and sell them for £20 each...

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I put one of the painted outer leg tubes back onto one leg, then looked at the relatuon between it and the old chromed tube, maybe half an inch, but with oil in and rider on bike, I imagine there's quite a lot of chromed tube covered up, so maybe the looks aren't quite so important as I first thought, PO had covered all this up with a rubber gaiter on my bike when I bought it.

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I think my new item compares favourably with old, it just won't be such a good tight fit, I do have some brass shim stock and araldite type stuff though...

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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March 21, 2019 - 8:19 pm
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Turning between centres.

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It certainly looks as though I've taken enough metal off now, new tube is now much thinner than painted outer cover.

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Where original one sat, before I 'sardine tinned' it off, ally oxide formed and wire brushed off now has actually left area smaller. I'm sure I'll think of something though, sooner or later.

But rigidity is going to be the problem, if new tubes can move, they'll maybe hit the cover tubes and make a racket over every bump, or maybe even destroy themselves after a few miles...thinking cap time.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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March 22, 2019 - 8:44 pm
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After a few days soaking, most of the WD40 I'd put into the back of the better of the two looking speedos had disappeared, I used a small flat bladed screwdriver to gently start coaxing the inner brass piece around, bit by bit, until I had it turning, just, more lubricant and wiping away quite a bit of some black muck coming out that I guessed to be hardened grease later, it was turning much freer, it felt like time to try the battery drill and a small flat blade from another screwdriver, I turned the drill to lowest speed and as speed can also be controlled by trigger, I gently began to get chuck revolving, whilst checking to be sure I wasn't doing any damage.

Wiped area clean again and applied another few drops of lubricant then gradually increased speed of drill again, I was very relieved to eventually get a reading of 25 mph on higher speed! I now have a decent speedo to go on bike.

I'd loved to have been able to show a pic of actual needle movement, but it was almost impossible to hold camera, speedo and drill all at once...!

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You sometimes need to go back into the dustbin for some essential 'tools'.

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A small container of mostly engine parts turned up finally, I thought I'd given these away years ago, cam chain tensioner is shot at least, but often a rebuild can be held up for just the sake of an odd screw washer or bolt, spring etc.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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March 22, 2019 - 8:54 pm
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Got the new downpipes out of packaging and tried to imagine which way they went on, before trying them in engine.

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No, I think it's this way actually, so long since I've worked on a CD engine, it was probably back in the late 1970's.

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These pipes are so narrow, at least compared with the rubbish things that were fitted just to be able to sell it, I then realised after trying to ascertain corect fit, why finned clamps seem much too big, I forgot to order new inner clamping pieces, four in all, doh.

There's always another day and parts list keeps increasing with it.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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March 24, 2019 - 1:32 am
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I've been busy lately, two sets now.

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Found another snapped off screw in bottom hole, that's four cleaned up now.

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I feel maybe a long bolt goes through here for holfding inner part of chaincase, gave it a straightening few taps with hammer, before the sandblaster gets to look at it I thought.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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March 24, 2019 - 1:38 am
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I have to keep remembering just how things fit together, despite free download of whole parts book by kind folk on Facebook.

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Keep forgetting that anchor bracket for torque arm goes underneath, not on top of swing arm.

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Cup bearings for steering came from Holland, but they're both same part no's, despite my odering definite different ones.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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March 24, 2019 - 1:45 am
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I was glad that paint stripper worked so well on the Honda frame, but was disappointed to find no primer or undercoats at all, at least BSA used lots of hard enamel paint, that even this awful stinking stuff I use has a job to penetrate, even when patchy with rust. One to BSA I think.

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Winter, salt laden, British roads will do this.

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Well hidden areas like this really ought to have had much better paint protection than that supplied.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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March 24, 2019 - 1:51 am
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Frame has about 50% coverage of surface, mostly, rust.

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Was going to dry frame out with a gas blowtorch after hosing down with water to neutralise, but opted for paper towelling and stoking stove up and putting it in front, it was soon dry right through.

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I cannot build bike without examining innards, I cannot get at innards with these tubes attached, so they must go, they're all rusted to some degree, so it's no real loss. Edges are like razors though.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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