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Honda CD175 twin, four stroke of 1972 vintage.
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Mags 1
Northamptonshire.
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June 11, 2019 - 6:41 pm
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Not very impressed with the guy's work who blasted my frame, there's someone else a bit nearer too, which I'll use for next session. Maybe talking to him may have helped, but I don't fancy driving another twenty miles and back, just to give him the chance to do the job properly second time.

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Be wary of trapped glass/sand etc in frame crevices and tubes etc, needs getting out before you start.

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A good job otherwise.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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June 11, 2019 - 6:53 pm
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What I used for top coat, tin says it contains a rust preventative, also a varnish type top coating, all in one, I've used this paint on other bikes in rattle cans, which is very convenient, having to mess around with mixing in thinners (roughly 50% this time) and cleaning spray gun etc seemed a drag at the time, but finish is OK, I did think about using lacquer too, but tin says it's already there. £3.99 according to bill?

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Paid about £25 for this Sealey one from my local paint shop, a bit awkward to manouever, but it does a fair job if it's set up correctly, which it probably isn't!

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Fairly happy with outcome, but I always get the feeling that I could have got it a bit better, it's been a week and a half now, so I think I'll leave well alone.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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June 11, 2019 - 7:06 pm
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Frame is much heavier than a Bantam one, so not so easy to move about when bottom side needs covering, all paint needs to go on at same time I think, which makes for awkwardness in moving frame without disturbing paint on it, I inverted it by grabbing front end where steering bearings fit and tipped it over on the rear end, made the minimum of disturbance to prepainted areas, any damage missed can be touched up with a brush later. I sometimes suspend Bantam frames to apply paint, but getting bottom side coated well is still not easy.

Doing the spraying in two sessions still means cleaning out the gun and storing any unused paint etc. and everything has to come out again, IF the weather is as good or at least favourable, I prefer to do job once myself, frame got three coats that day, last one went on near tea time I believe.

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Spraying outside always seems to attract dust and insects.

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Camera does lie, sometimes, that's definitely black paint!

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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June 11, 2019 - 7:16 pm
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I chose these mudguards because they looked better than my originals....

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This was a mass of glassfibre mat and gel coat before, I still feel I did the right thing. To build you need firm foundations...

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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June 11, 2019 - 7:24 pm
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Spraying/sanding overalls are quite cheap and save taking dirt home, I start sanding the filler down with 60 or 80 grit wet or dry paper, once it's clogged up like this you can use water to unclog the paper.

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Or a blowgun and compressed air will do it for you and keep the metal dry and rust free.

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Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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June 11, 2019 - 7:29 pm
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I gave the mudguards a couple of once overs with the grey primer first, another way to keep rust at bay, this paint needs the minimum removal to be able to weld right up to it.

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I don't use this contour tool very often, but it does come in handy.

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It allowed me to get the shape of the undamaged section which I can copy when I'm at the final sanding down stage.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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colk2004
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June 12, 2019 - 1:13 pm
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This is great for me. Jusat stripped an Ariel Arrow and I've got a bit of bodywork to sort of the frame where its perforated. The more ideas the merrier to help me. 

All looking good so far for you. I'm embarrassed to say I had a CD175 for a year and never knew the frame looked like that.

 

Cheers Colin

BSA Bantam D10 so so near, Reliant Scimitar GTE SE6a - wiring in bits. FB Falcon 87 seat and wiring to do - still. Ariel Arrow now on the go! MZ125 running, Royal Enfield Classic love it, campervan done to tow some of the above!

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Mags 1
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June 12, 2019 - 9:48 pm
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Thanks Colin.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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June 13, 2019 - 12:15 pm
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Trying to find a suitable bolt that holds the Honda air filter box and cover together last week took me so long and caused such a lot of searching, I could have almost cheerfully paid the imagined £5 for the correct Honda item, but not quite. Bolt is about 6 to 7 inches long and only threaded for about the la

st half inch, it has a ten mill head of course.

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Thought I'd done well when I found this one, but it's BSF, do I grind the hexagons down to make the head end fit into plastic cover and hope it's long enough when I do so, or heat it up and melt it into the plastic..

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I have an old tin full of metric roofing bolts or screws might be more descriptive, I ground the round screw head down to an hexagon shape and found a good fit in length and suitability too. I doubt any future owner of this bike will mind that I didn't fork out the extra fiver.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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June 13, 2019 - 12:25 pm
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The sand blasting cabinet was playing up last week, I wanted to get on and make some progress, problem was a blocked pick up tube, right at the very bottom of the 50lbs of blast media, the only way forward was to drop the lot out and sieve it.

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No wonder it wouldn't work, rust flakes, stones, a spring and a hose clip were amongst the assorted obstructions found.

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I sprayed the spring later on with some Bantam bits that needed covering, I now think the spring is from the Honda, it may well be the brake switch return spring, not sure what colour to have it though, black or wheel silver, either would do I suppose.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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June 14, 2019 - 8:17 pm
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Was looking for something else entirely when this carbide tipped tile marking scribe turned up, but it seemed just he tool to mark the sheet metal replacements on the Honda mudguards, I simply held a piece behind the hole and scribed around the hole side.

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Leave a bit of a gap for metal to expand when it heats up.

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They take much less time to get ready for welding in, measuring them up and constantly trying to fit bits like exactly this can waste hours.

Don't forget to scratch a 'T' for top or you end up doubting me!

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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June 14, 2019 - 8:28 pm
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12 new 5 mm screws for holding indicator lenses on didn't break the bank.

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Somehow welding this lot back up is a task I've now set myself, last thing I needed was my Draper ex. demo MIG welder bought about 10 years ago at a Beaulieu autojumble, conking out.

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I narrowed the fault down to this PC board, little 20 volt DC. motor for wire feed is fine and works well in both directions on 6 and 12 volt batteries, took torch to bits also, but machine makes a thump sound every time trigger is pulled, wire feed motor hardly moves though and I cannot alter the wire feed speed or the amperage settings now, it could be the blue capacitor sitting there I think.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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SpacedMarine
Up north
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June 14, 2019 - 10:39 pm
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s-l400-2.jpgThat cap looks ok to me mags I always thought the cross was so they "pop" up when they go.The fact the top is flat suggests it's ok.As far as what else it could be I have no idea sorry.

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments

What's 7/16 in mm again?

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johnsullivan
east sussex
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June 15, 2019 - 9:50 am
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draper still offer spares for nearly all their welders.

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  1.  
 

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. 93 Yamaha TTR 250 Raid, Sinnis SC 125. 78 Honda 90  75 Montesa Cota 247 an electric scooter of Famous make.

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Mags 1
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June 15, 2019 - 9:55 pm
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Thanks for that John, looks like I'll be giving them a ring next Monday morning, mine's the 135 model, but if they stock parts for all it doesn't seem to matter. A good call there and cheers.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Mags 1
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June 15, 2019 - 10:49 pm
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I felt rather lost without my old MIG welder the other day, but remembered the tiny little French made Gysmi 161, a 160 amp inverter stick welder, about the size of two house bricks, one on top of the other, the amps setting starts at zero.

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I was using the thinnest rods I've ever seen, about as thick as a matchstick, on the outside including flux, actual wire is half that thick.

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I used a bit of new 22 gauge car body type steel to practice, rod fizzled a bit like a sparkler! But I was able to lay down some blobs OK, as long as I kept the rod moving, once I stopped to try laying a proper bead, I was through, I might try 8 or even 5 amps next time.

I've since sunk a few weeks pension into an inverter mig welder with just one control, it's very odd not really knowing what I'm doing, the fifty page "manual" is in 12 different languages and needed ones for me are every fourth or sixth page, hopeless.

I've used the trolley type thing the draper was on to give me something on wheels to move the new 11kg (not 15) welder and gas bottle around with.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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mike p5xbx
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June 17, 2019 - 12:49 am
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Thats a very complex looking PCB if its an older simple transformer type MIG welder
you can get small INVERTER MIG welder quite cheaply now £150
a friend has one of these and it woks really well for the price but with anything that contains lots of electronics how long they will last is always doubtful
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