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1984 250cc Moto Morini Model J
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cocorico
Central France
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November 6, 2019 - 12:08 pm
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My long standing 'restoration' - you know me, it's Oily Rag - is nearing it's end, so I thought it time to reveal the progress.

Here's 'as new'. bronations-5.jpg

As received. RHS.JPGLHS.JPG

This bike had been 'transformed' into a cafe racer, the mods included fitting a wrong exhaust, chopping up the foot controls and rewelding and for some reason welding a great knob of metal to the footrest carrier with a prop stand on it. It had been down the road and the instrument cluster and left hand control were smashed. I then found that the fuel tank was leaking...

To be continued.

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stubaker58
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November 6, 2019 - 5:17 pm
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Looks good to me, does it share any bits with the 31/2?

My ‘79 31/2 is being gently rekindled, still in mostly original paint (plus some Lidl red hammertoe which is a great colour match) runs well, rust is less than it was, swinging arm needs a shim. The main issue is that both front discs have a rough spot where the pads had been in contact during a long layup, the chrome on the discs is shot in the spots but pretty good elsewhere.  Never having had disc brakes on a bike before I’m not sure of the best way forward, skim the discs? Re-chrome them?

photos tomorrow.

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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cocorico
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November 6, 2019 - 6:26 pm
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Here are the foot controls. The gear change was shortened and repositioned, likewise the brake pedal (which was cut in half and rewelded), it's mount also had a lump of a 'boss' welded on for a sidestand.

pedals1.jpgpedals2.jpg

The brake pedal should be like this (it is now more or less like it, but a bit battered):

brake-pedal.jpg

Exhaust had been cobbled into a 2 into 1 with a megaphone - but was made using a 350's pipes, which were bent to fit with a hammer

System.jpg

I also found that one of the exhaust nuts appeared home-made, it was larger than standard, so I assume the thread in the head had stripped at some point

Nust-2.jpg

I'll talk about the instrument console next...

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cocorico
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November 7, 2019 - 11:28 am
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As I said, the bike had obviously been 'down the road'. The original adjustable bars were bent a little too much to use, headlamp rim was slightly dented (though usable), but the instrument console and hand control were damaged. Here are before and after pics of the console. I fixed it with Q-Bond, a mix of cyanoacrylate glue and a filler powder. I used insulation tape to make moulds for the missing areas, which seem to have worked pretty well. I  used a similar technique for the control switch, which is now functional but obviously repaired.

console-1.JPG console-2.JPG

I have now repaired the missing right hand mounting lug, using a similar technique.

Then onto the electrics. Being Italian, Moto Morini electrics are sometimes referred to as spaghetti bolognese. Actually they are not bad considering that the looms were made for ease of mass production rather than logic. Here's an example.

Transducers.jpg

These Morinis have a magneto ignition, as early Bantams, in that there is a source coil on the stator which feeds a cdi unit for each cylinder (these two are not matched, for some reason). The cdi units are triggered by sensors on the other end of the crank, they are set 72deg apart (the cylinders being at 72deg). The grey object on the left is not standard, I haven't found out why it was fitted, but the bike is now running without it.

More anon - unless you're getting bored...

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mike p5xbx
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November 7, 2019 - 4:45 pm
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cocorico said
More anon - unless you're getting bored...  

never owned or even worked on a Moto Morini so keep it coming its great to see bikes that are different

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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cocorico
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November 7, 2019 - 8:08 pm
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mike p5xbx said

never owned or even worked on a Moto Morini so keep it coming its great to see bikes that are different  

They resemble Bantams - they are addictive.

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JustinW
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November 7, 2019 - 9:04 pm
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Nice work. That Qbond stuff sounds interesting. 

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cocorico
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November 8, 2019 - 10:10 am
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OK, first a link to ** Please log in to view ** for Justin. Be aware that it is not suitable for all plastics and that if you use too much the filler sets rock hard and is difficult to remove!

Second, a correction - the trigger sensors for the cdis are not on the end of the crank, they are driven from the end of the cam shaft. In effect, they are magnetos too, with a voltage pulse generated by a rotating magnet fitted to the camshaft. Considering that these bikes were designed in the 1970, the electronics have been pretty reliable and are not too bulky, though they are becoming harder (more costly) to replace. Like a Bantam, there are up to date electronic units available, but many enthusiasts still prefer the original system. Just like us with the points / electronic debates.

Anyway, the ignition is a good point when refurbishing one because you don't need any other electrical system working to be able to start the engine, so I had the engine running pretty early on. That is when I discovered the fuel tank was leaking...

Investigation found that most of the leaks were from the seam along the bottom left of the tank, interestingly all on the outside of the tank. I guess it had spent time on it's prop stand quietly corroding in the Spanish weather. Some work with a wire brush revealed some pinholes about 1cm out from the base - so just above the welds. I gave the interior a dose of electrolysis, which increased the number of leaks but removed all the crud from inside. I then poked the holed area with a scriber point to get rid of any remaining thin metal and ran some epoxy along the area to cover any potential break-throughs, then treated the inside with 'Slosh'. It seems to be fine so far after a year or two with some fuel in (progress has been slow!).

Tank-piercings.jpgEpoxy-support.jpgCunning-bung.jpgSlosh.jpg

It then sat neglected for a year or so before I decided I needed to progress (it vies with the Bantam for attention). I also have the problem of a corrugated barn - in winter it's like working in a fridge, in summer an oven (over 40deg during this year's summer). What a shame...whistle

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cocorico
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November 10, 2019 - 9:45 am
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Not a great deal of progress now - I'm waiting for a number plate (thought I'd bought one, but not so) and front brake switch.

The bike is running, electrics working, starts and runs a treat. I did find that the voltage regulator was not working, but that is not a problem which stops the engine function. The design of the regulator relies on having a good battery fitted, as it references the battery voltage in order to control output. Sometimes they fail, though, and need replacement, as this case. On this model they are also 6V. They are now difficult to obtain, but I happened to have a 12V Boyer Power Box handy. This is a simple single phase regulator which needs no battery, so is handy to have. I also intend to try one of the Chinese 12 regs available for not a lot later. The Morini stator is wound  centre-tapped, but by ignoring the centre tap cable I connected the end cables to the Power Box and found it delivered 12V without problem, so a change of bulbs was required. So I have a running bike, just waiting for the number plate to arrive.

Here are some pics of the repaired areas and views of the engine. Once it's off the table and on the road I'll post some more.

Instruments.JPGComodo.JPGLHS-repair.JPGRHS-repair.JPGPower-Box.JPGRHS-eng.JPGLHS-eng.JPG

I may even paint it next year (or the year after...)

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stubaker58
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November 10, 2019 - 9:54 am
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Hi Coco

Ive got a slightly less broken handlebar switch cover you can have if you like, there’s no innards but the face is more complete than yours.

ill pm you a picture when I get home.

regards.

BTW paint!!!?!

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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cocorico
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November 10, 2019 - 11:29 am
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Cheers. Paint? - well, more likely a spray-over for the tank - eventually...

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Piquet
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November 10, 2019 - 12:05 pm
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I had a bike with a centre tap half wave charging system (AC/DC) and found that when used as you suggest although it would generate 12v there wasn't enough current to keep the battery charged when used with the lights on. It was simple to convert to full wave though.

See here.

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I'm not a complete idiot ............................................ some parts are missing.

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cocorico
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November 10, 2019 - 2:58 pm
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Thanks Paul, but that's how it is connected. On the Morini, the centre tap goes to the positive output of the OE regulator, the two ends go to 2 thyristors in the unit. The Power Box is connected across the 2 stator winding ends and the centre tap blanked off. Added to which, it now doesn't need a battery and one of my other Morinis (whistle) has been fitted similarly since I got it about 16 years ago with no problem.

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cocorico
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November 16, 2019 - 10:56 am
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Aha, the 250 is 'on the road' - though still waiting on the brake light switch. Insured yesterday (€12,41 for 3rd party and recovery), then a short shake-down run, which was OK, need to set gear lever movement and clutch, together with a 'learning point' - the fact that you can hear petrol when you slosh the tank doesn't necessarily mean there's enough! embarassedOnly about ½ mile from home and mainly downhill, no other traffic and good exercise (and quicker than recovery out here!). Pics when we get a bit of fine weather.

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cocorico
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November 17, 2019 - 1:36 pm
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It's dry today, so here are a few pictures of my trio.

Collection-1.JPGCollection-2.JPGCollection-3.JPG

From left to right, 1986 model K2 Sport (350cc), 1978 Model A3 Strada (350cc), 1984 Model J (250cc)

The K2 is completely original, apart from mirrors; the A3 is a hybrid, using a later engine from a Kanguro trail model, the top end of the engine has been gas-flowed; the J is mostly original, but had been somewhat abused by a previous owner, I intend to give the tank and front mudguard a blow over, VW Mars Red looks a fair match. The A3 is my favourite.

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bantammad
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December 7, 2019 - 5:05 pm
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Hi bantammad ere theirs is something about Italian styling it has to be red smart three some. l have got a 1960 testi sport special spent most of its life in a museum north off Milan wil post a photo of her I’m a dinosaur have to get the granddaughter to help regards LES

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cocorico
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December 7, 2019 - 7:24 pm
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Thanks Les - I agree about the red, but there is a variety of colours in the range, some of which are very pleasing to the eye. On my 3, the K2 Sport is completely original, the A3 had been rebuilt from various bits with paintwork by 'Dream Machine', by contrast, the 250, while original, has obviously spent most of it's life out in the Spanish weather and is rather tired. Still, it will give me something to do one day (perhaps...)

As for posting photos, it sounds tricky, but if you can get it sussed, it's easy. Depends if you have a camera or a smartphone really.

Is yours the 125 like this?

125-Tesi.jpg

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bantammad
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December 7, 2019 - 8:47 pm
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1E8E4C9B-A461-4754-ACD8-DFD7244473DC.jpegHi bantammad ere you’re right the blue and silver is pleasing to the eye the 1960 testi is not like the 125 as shown but in the same ball park it can found on web put in testi p3 it will come up with versants is that yours by the way regardsLEs

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December 12, 2019 - 3:44 pm
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Hi bantammad ere here is my testi sports special of 1960 Italian 50cc 3  speed tiddler  spent it’s time in a museum in Milan love it the bike behind is my D5 1958 done many road trials like sandersfoot 75, Blackmountan,the Levi’s many many more keep riding LES

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cocorico
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December 12, 2019 - 4:22 pm
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Beautiful, and most definitely Italian.

You are lucky to be able to do some biking in Pembrokeshire - Tenby is my favourite seaside town. Much of my biking was in N Wales, Dragon Rallies, etc.

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