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New to the Forum. Battery or no to battery
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The Atom
Hastings
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November 7, 2019 - 9:46 pm
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I have a D3 singing arm model vintage 1957. It starts and runs fine but has no battery and as yet only a glimmer of lighting. I have tested the circuits and made some repairs which I hope will fix the lighting. My question is do I need to fit the battery or can I leave it out. If I don't need it what should I do with the leads? Insulate them or connect them somehow? Needless to say I am not an electrical engineer by trade.

The Atom

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cocorico
Central France
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November 8, 2019 - 8:09 am
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Hello Peter. I have a D3 too, which runs, but was in a similar state to yours, from the sound of it. I reckon you have several choices, depending on your intended use:

Daytime only - don't worry about lights (as long as MOT will give you a certificate). Use a bright cycle type LED lamp front & rear for more visibility.

Limited use - fit a gel battery with LED bulbs in the head and tail lamps.

Full spec - you would need to find your stator spec (how the lighting / charging coils are wired) and progress from there.

The last 2 will require some electrikery, the last one would probably be worth going down the 12V neg earth route, for which there is plenty of info on site, as Mick says.

You would need to check MOT rules on option one, so it may be a non starter.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine now running.

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sunny
Norfolk
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November 8, 2019 - 9:10 am
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hi  Atom     ... as  most   D 3  S/A   for  the  U K    had    a   battery   it   also  has  a holder     & rectyfyer        this  kind  of  system   must  have  a  batery   in  the   cerkit     or    rectyfier   DAMAGE   is  expected         ,, if  it  dont  have   a  rectyfier   or  Batery Holder       it dont  need  one   but  geting   the  rite   lamps   is  a  must       ,, a none  batery    A/C   sistem   will  have  the  SPEC   NO   1452    ,,one  with  a  batery   has  spec  no  1450 ,,,,  most   would    have  spec no 1130   for  both   sysems  thay  have  amened    wiering  looms   / harnes  as  thay  wer   fited  in  the 1950 s  so  some  homework   is   needed   see  you  later  have   fun   &   lots  of   tea

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The Atom
Hastings
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November 8, 2019 - 11:25 am
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Hi Sunny,

Excellent answer, so battery it is then. I have run it up for a short time so I'm hoping I haven't damaged the rectifier. I've got a six volt six amp battery from my little Honda C200 which I shall use temporarily. I shall replace that with a gel type battery of the alarm system type as seems to be favoured by many on the forum. Thanks once more and thumb's up.

The Atom

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The Atom
Hastings
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November 8, 2019 - 11:36 am
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Hi Mick W,

Sorry I didn't acknowledge your reply as I cut straight to Sunny. Thanks for the advice and I shall post a picture soon. I'm just sorting the electrics then replace seat and lights, clean it up a little before presenting it to the world.

The Atom (5'3" in my socks), AKA Peter B.

The Atom

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stubaker58
Sunny Felixstowe
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November 8, 2019 - 5:09 pm
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Hi 

careful with the gel battery as without proper voltage regulation they can explode apparently.  (The Wipac generator  can pump out more than the 6 volts.) I use one on my D7 but I’ve got a solid state regulator/rectifier in the loom.

someone who knows about these things will be along soon!

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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The Atom
Hastings
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November 10, 2019 - 12:03 pm
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Thanks guy's all the info you're giving is really helpful. I've put a lead acid battery onto the bike and when I tested the voltage with the bike running on a moderate throttle the voltage was between 7.1 and 7.8 depending on the headlight switch position. Still np head or dip beam though when running. The switch seems to be working in all positions when tested and I've checked the connection between the switch an headlamp, the lamp holder and the lamp and all are fine. I'm running out of options so suggestions welcome.

I'd like to wire in an ammeter temporarily to check the output, not entirely sure how but will look it up on the net or wait for someone from to forum to advise me.

The help I;m getting is really encouraging, thanks again all.thumbs-up

Just discovered the emogies to.

The Atom

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sunny
Norfolk
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November 10, 2019 - 1:07 pm
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AMP  meters  are not  recamended   for  on  moter cyclls      as  thers  too much  movment    on  ther  iner  parts   so  av  a look  for  thos   L E D  charge   indycaters   also  chek  your    baters  charge  rat  after  charging   fully        over   7,4    is  geting    a  bit   high

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The Atom
Hastings
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November 10, 2019 - 1:12 pm
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Noted Sunny, but I'd like to test for amps output with my multimeter even if I don't fit one. I'm still worried that I might have damage the rectifier.

Cheers

The Atom

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sunny
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November 10, 2019 - 2:01 pm
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at  around  £ 4,50    a rectyfier             its   not  werth    playing   on  the   multymeter     too  ezy   damaged   if   your  not  used  to  using   one   ,i  dont  think  you  will  see  much    

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mike p5xbx
E-Sussex
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November 10, 2019 - 4:53 pm
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you dont really need a amp meter
a volt meter will tell if voltage is high enough so must be charging ok
and they are very cheap
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ledvolt2.jpg

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D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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The Atom
Hastings
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November 10, 2019 - 7:33 pm
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Thanks Mike, Sunny, after spending most of my day in the garage sorting through the wiring I can announce all is well. Lights are burning bright(ish), getting plenty of voltage just got to earth the rear light holder and I'm done.

Cheers guys clap

The Atom

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