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What I did on my bike today..
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cocorico
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October 16, 2015 - 10:09 am
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Haven't tried any 6v versions, but I have 12v leds on the other bikes with no problem. Plus a 36W/36W halogen equivalent LED in the YBR which seems excellent (though I don't go out at night much).

I intend to wire up some high intensity single LEDs for the D3 and am just sorting out a large tin 'washer' so I can use a 2 'filament' LED Ba15 type in the headlamp. They will be running lamps really, for visibility rather than illumination.

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dimitris
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October 16, 2015 - 10:56 am
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Hi Bob! I am allready using 12v leds on the d1 (3 on the tail&brake), plust halogen headlight..

I also fitted the halogen 35/35w on the D10, but never used a doulbe led bulb... (brake&tail on same bulb)

 

On the 21/3W bulbs, the 3watts are for the tail light and 21watts for the brake, right??? Or the other way...??
On mine, brake was on the 3W stage, so actually was not noticable, and the tail light was sucking all the juice from my battery..dunno 

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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BSAdave
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October 16, 2015 - 11:12 am
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What i managed to do was drop a petrol generator on top of the front mudguard of the D1 damaging the paint , don't ask. the air turned blue.

D1 D3 D5 D7 Suzuki TS 125, Yamaha YDS7 250

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cocorico
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October 16, 2015 - 11:52 am
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dimitriscy said

On the 21/3W bulbs, the 3watts are for the tail light and 21watts for the brake, right??? Or the other way...??
On mine, brake was on the 3W stage, so actually was not noticable, and the tail light was sucking all the juice from my battery..dunno 

The 21W is for the brakes, 3W for illumination. I'm sure you will find LEDs at the least no worse, probably better and definitely less power drain.

This is the LED headlamp I've used: ** Please log in to view **

Just trying these as sidelights, too: ** Please log in to view **

BSAdave said
What i managed to do was drop a petrol generator on top of the front mudguard of the D1 damaging the paint , don't ask. the air turned blue.

Ouch!

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Hans Kreuzen
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October 16, 2015 - 12:05 pm
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BSAdave said
What i managed to do was drop a petrol generator on top of the front mudguard of the D1 damaging the paint , don't ask. the air turned blue.

Your just NOT having any luck lately, Are youdoh

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, 1949 Aus. PMG replica D1 project and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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dimitris
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October 16, 2015 - 7:22 pm
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cocorico said

The 21W is for the brakes, 3W for illumination. I'm sure you will find LEDs at the least no worse, probably better and definitely less power drain.

I was about to order..but....i suppose will not work on the D10, since it has positive earth..right?????dohdoh
And its double filament bulb with earthing metal outside, so.... cannot invert it...
(The d1 is ok with leds, but it's negative earth, and easy to invert bulbs)

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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Sprung Chicken
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October 16, 2015 - 8:04 pm
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dimitriscy said

cocorico said

The 21W is for the brakes, 3W for illumination. I'm sure you will find LEDs at the least no worse, probably better and definitely less power drain.

I was about to order..but....i suppose will not work on the D10, since it has positive earth..right?????dohdoh
And its double filament bulb with earthing metal outside, so.... cannot invert it...
(The d1 is ok with leds, but it's negative earth, and easy to invert bulbs)

Dimitris, the ones on that site say they will work +ve or -ve earth. The good thing is you get a bright light for a small draw of current.

 Your original brake light problem is down to the wires to the light are the wrong way round, just undo the connectors and swap them over..

Dougie;Glasgow ;Scotland.
1955 D1, 1970 B175

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dimitris
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October 17, 2015 - 8:31 am
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Sprung Chicken said

Dimitris, the ones on that site say they will work +ve or -ve earth. The good thing is you get a bright light for a small draw of current.

 Your original brake light problem is down to the wires to the light are the wrong way round, just undo the connectors and swap them over..

Thanks Dougie.. i thought Leds have all fixed polarity.. thumbs-up
Yes, i already swap my wires... the Headlight with pilot bulb was also reversed..
Now must go fit my new clutch cover...out-a-here

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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Sprung Chicken
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October 19, 2015 - 10:11 pm
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rantingSpent the last 6 hours trying to get a gearbox to do what its meant to....

Dougie;Glasgow ;Scotland.
1955 D1, 1970 B175

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dimitris
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October 20, 2015 - 8:17 pm
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Sprung Chicken said
rantingSpent the last 6 hours trying to get a gearbox to do what its meant to....

What do you think is the problem in there??? 

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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Sprung Chicken
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October 20, 2015 - 8:41 pm
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dimitriscy said

Sprung Chicken said
rantingSpent the last 6 hours trying to get a gearbox to do what its meant to....

What do you think is the problem in there??? 

dohMainshaft 3rd gear was in upside down seems to be working now, but we will see once the cases are back together....

Dougie;Glasgow ;Scotland.
1955 D1, 1970 B175

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dimitris
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October 22, 2015 - 3:21 pm
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Now looks more like a sport's model...thumbs-up

20151022_170253.jpg

before..

bantam-1.jpg

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BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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dimitris
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October 23, 2015 - 8:45 am
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Could be my next project...but...just check at the price!!!!

** Please log in to view **

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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Hans Kreuzen
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October 23, 2015 - 10:05 am
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dimitriscy said
Now looks more like a sport's model...thumbs-up

Looking great, Much better than before. thumbs-up

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, 1949 Aus. PMG replica D1 project and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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HowD1
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October 23, 2015 - 11:01 am
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dimitriscy said

Wondering...if anyone fited a D14 or D10 engine in a D1 frame...??dunno

I would like to have the advantages of this engine, but with a D1 look!!

Yep! Used my B175 in the D1 chassis for a while (D1 Sportmax!) - one of the trips to Paris was like that; I think the others on standard D1s and D3s got a bit fed up with me disappearing over the horizon......

CIMG0117-800x533.jpg

above: all lined up at Cerny - the British contingent

below: on the road somewhere in Normandy - all proper hybrids - my B175 engined D1, hard Dennis's D3 engined GPO D1, and big Rich (obviously contemplating why the hell he was riding around in France) with a D14 engined D7-framed with D14 bits and B175 forks...er...mobile kitchen.

CIMG0109-800x533.jpg

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HowD1
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October 23, 2015 - 11:25 am
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cocorico said

The 21W is for the brakes, 3W for illumination. I'm sure you will find LEDs at the least no worse, probably better and definitely less power drain.

I bought a couple of the brake/rear LED bulbs from Hong Kong with the expectation they would be rubbish being so cheap but I've had one on the rigid Matchless used on the LE trial so heaps of shocks and vibes and yet it's still perfect. Amazing.

Just ordered a couple of the headlamp types (H4) to see how they perform. Whether they "dip" or not effectively (and to the left) might be in question.

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cocorico
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October 23, 2015 - 12:50 pm
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HowD1 said
...
Just ordered a couple of the headlamp types (H4) to see how they perform. Whether they "dip" or not effectively (and to the left) might be in question.

I think you will find that they don't 'dip', more a change in intensity. Also, I always thought the 'dip to the left' (or right) was down to the design of the headlamp, together with its adjustment. They are pleasingly bright, though, and cheap too.

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BSAdave
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October 23, 2015 - 1:10 pm
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What I did today was get a puncture on the rear tyre.

D1 D3 D5 D7 Suzuki TS 125, Yamaha YDS7 250

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BSAdave
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October 23, 2015 - 1:12 pm
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HowD1 said

cocorico said

The 21W is for the brakes, 3W for illumination. I'm sure you will find LEDs at the least no worse, probably better and definitely less power drain.

I bought a couple of the brake/rear LED bulbs from Hong Kong with the expectation they would be rubbish being so cheap but I've had one on the rigid Matchless used on the LE trial so heaps of shocks and vibes and yet it's still perfect. Amazing.

Just ordered a couple of the headlamp types (H4) to see how they perform. Whether they "dip" or not effectively (and to the left) might be in question.

Do you have a link for these lamps ?

D1 D3 D5 D7 Suzuki TS 125, Yamaha YDS7 250

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October 23, 2015 - 1:14 pm
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dimitriscy said
Could be my next project...but...just check at the price!!!!

** Please log in to view **

roflroflroflYou will need a ware house soon Dimitris.

Bit on the expensive side BUT if it all there including the hard to find bits.(tin ware and complete engine).

Well worth an Haggle he may except a couple of hundred euro's less if it doesn't sell. 

If your looking for another project,, its worth a few euro's to place an add in your local newspaper for (old British bikes any condition for Collector TOP PRICES PAID).

You may catch a couple at the right price... I have had some bargains doing the same.....

Bob.

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