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SpacedMarine's D14
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SpacedMarine
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May 27, 2020 - 1:03 am
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Yeah I think itll have to go on the garage wall 😁

What's 7/16 in mm again?

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cocorico
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May 27, 2020 - 7:36 am
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SpacedMarine said
Yeah I think itll have to go on the garage wall 😁  

You only THINK? Hope she got a great big hug!love-it

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SpacedMarine
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May 27, 2020 - 8:49 am
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cocorico said

You only THINK? Hope she got a great big hug!love-it  

Yes and an ice cream of course 😁

What's 7/16 in mm again?

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SpacedMarine
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May 29, 2020 - 10:26 pm
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Damn fork bushes.So bought some new brake shoes and thought while I'm at it and have the front wheel off I'd finally get my forks sorted as I've had new stanchions sat in the garage for a year anyway what is the usual practice with these things? Punched through th oil holes to keep them on the end of the stanchions and theres obviously a burr stopping them going down the hole on the fork bottom.I thought maybe it was a little tight at the top as it's not really a wearing surface so tapped it down a bit with a rubber mallet and the damn thing came off the stanchion and stuck in the tube 😁🤣🤣🤣.Why me I thought?

Anyway I managed to make a little puller and got the damn thing out so what now?Just turn it down till it fits or what?Seems a bit overkill?Screenshot_20200529-221948_Gallery.jpg

After measuring the bore of the for bottoms and measuring the bushes they're basically the same 1.126 inches so they're an interference fit!!!

Looks like I'm turning them down 🤯🤯🤯

What's 7/16 in mm again?

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SpacedMarine
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May 30, 2020 - 11:52 am
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Finally got the legs sliding nicely now the seals are playing up.Tried both ways spring at top and bottom oil still being pulled up the leg.Is it me?

Are they actually supposed to seal or are they just "wipers"?

Cant see it being the latter as it's an mot failure but this was built in the 60s 🤣🤣🤣

What's 7/16 in mm again?

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Blue Heeler
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May 30, 2020 - 12:33 pm
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With the correct type seals fitted the correct way around & in the correct type holder and with your nice shiny new stanchions, they should wipe and  seal 🙂

Even with quite 2nd-hand stanchions, but nicely cleaned up, I was pleasantly surprised to see no leaks past the seals on my `68 D14, back in the mid`70s.

Don`t forget to polytetrafluroethylene(sp?sorry, it`s one of my party words) tape the threads of the fork leg before screwing your seal holders back down...mine did leak from there :(...until I gooed them up, didn`t have any tape in my kit back then.

I was going to offer some advice on the bushes, but you`ve sussed it...hope the seals play ball too.

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SpacedMarine
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May 30, 2020 - 5:59 pm
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Ta Blue.To be honest when I looked a bit closer it seemed as if the oil was coming "around" the back of the seal where it presses into the collar so I used your trick of plumbers tape and packed it out a bit and seems to have cured it 👍🏼Put some on the collar threads aswell as "what harm can it do?".

Think if I was gonna do it again I'd just make some bushes out of bronze and make them a proper press fit on the stanchions as they're pretty poor tbh.Had a spare pair of forks and there was a bush stuck in one of the fork legs so cant be the only one who's had issues with them!

Anyway the front brake is better not sure if it's the fact I cleaned the drum out aswell but the cable is adjusted all the way in on the plate whereas before it was practically all the way out.So I'll call that a success.

The new rec/reg is fitted seems nice quality and fitted nice and easily although I've already had one wired in previously so that'll help.was giving a steady 14.2volts when I revved it up and the battery was at 13 volts after a decent run so fingers crossed that's another job off the list.reckon I'd be happy venturing a bit further afield now without worrying about cooking the battery.Ill put some pics up when I get chance.

What's 7/16 in mm again?

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SpacedMarine
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June 3, 2020 - 8:54 am
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Bantams eh the gift that keeps giving.Had to nip back to work last night so decided to go on the bike.Went to start nothing!Pulled spark plug wet through,took crankcase plug out a good couple of egg cups full of fuel came out.

On the plus side once I'd cleaned the plug it gave the best spark I've ever seen it give so I'm hoping the electrics are sorted!

Anyway I started it with the pancake off got it going and screwed back on.Seemed ok got really woolly on the way and wouldnt bimble along wanted revs.Im guessing it's running super rich(it was red hot out).Got to work thing cut out wouldnt start.Only had a plug wrench and a spanner so took the plug out again dried it and left the filter off for the way home and just about made it.

Obviously a carb issue.Gonna take it off next time I'm off work and have a look.My suspicion is the float needle isn't sealing properly or the float height is way off.Ive read you can drift the brass needle seat up or down to set the float height so will have a look at doing that and getting it set up right.I did put the viton tipped needle in last time I had it apart and it seemed ok but further inspection will tell .Dont really want to spend £150 on a new carb just yet!

What's 7/16 in mm again?

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nickjaxe
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June 3, 2020 - 10:07 am
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Hi James....no reason why the float should go out of adjustment.....especially if it was running ok last time you used it.

But does sound float related as you say.

Do you turn off the fuel when parking the bike up?

Nick.

My Bantam video              https://www.you.....jpOFmzRZRI

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SpacedMarine
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June 3, 2020 - 10:38 am
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nickjaxe said
Hi James....no reason why the float should go out of adjustment.....especially if it was running ok last time you used it.
But does sound float related as you say.
Do you turn off the fuel when parking the bike up?
Nick.  

Fuel does get turned off usually if I remember 🤣

Its always been a bit "floody" think the filter on the pancake is getting soaked with fuel aswell which chokes it even further hence I rode home filter less.Really gonna have to sort the side panel filter out.I have the bits just had so many other jobs to do on it not got around to it.Now the electrics are sorted hopefully I can get onto it.

What's 7/16 in mm again?

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nickjaxe
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June 3, 2020 - 11:44 am
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As an experiment, I fitted a pancake filter once...as you say...gets wet and they are dam noisy....without the filter fitted have you ever seen the mist blowing back engine running...Quite surprising.

My Bantam video              https://www.you.....jpOFmzRZRI

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SpacedMarine
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September 3, 2020 - 5:53 pm
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Well looking at the quality of some of the work on here recently I'm gonna have to up my game 😄.

Regarding the erratic behaviour of the bike when hot/sat in traffic etc I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new carb as the other one was warped on the flange the bore for the slide was oval and the float needle seat appeared to be worn meaning that the float height was too high.I could have bought a stay up float kit but with the other issues decided that it was probably the best way to go.

While it was off I thought I'd check the bore.Anyway it seems it needs a rebore!

Screenshot_20200828-115734_Adobe-Acrobat.jpg

According to specs in the manual my skirt clearance is too big at 0.15mm and ring gap is way over 0.5mm.I'm pretty sure it was in spec when I rebuilt it originally even though it was on the getting near ready for a rebore scale but yeah it's time!

Screenshot_20200903-170826_Gallery.jpg

Blow by on the piston seems to confirm.wierdly theres a bit of scuffing on it aswell as if its nipped up a little at some point?Im wondering whether to go the 186cc route or just go to +40 as at least I'll have another couple of rebores on it if I go the +40 route.Theres also the fact you have to machine the head going the 186 route which isn't an issue apart from figuring out how to hold the head while you do it as it's a standard d14 head.Im guessing it's a bit easier whith a centre plug head as you can just use the plug hole to hold it!

I have a +40 piston  from a spare head but its quite scuffed and would mean I only need to get a set of rings to do the job.Anyway nothings decided yet.Screenshot_20200903-170908_Gallery.jpg

I've never done a rebore before so this should be a challenge 😄.I've decided to do it on the lathe as even though I have a boring head with the mill I really don't think it's up to the job (could be me)IMG-20200903-WA0006.jpeg

 I set it up and gave it a go on something and wasnt too impressed. Maybe with a bit more experience I could get it working properly.

So this is the plan.Make a mount for the lathe and make myself a nice rigid boring setup.I have a nice length of tool steel I'm thinking of using my new heat treating skills on as I'm going to have to turn it slowly anyway a nice home made boring bar made of tool steel should do the job.Screenshot_20200903-170903_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20200903-170845_Gallery.jpg

Made it a nice snug fit on the barrel and seems to work.Gonna have to drill and tap some holes for the barrel stud centres and use some 8mm althread to hold it nice and securely on the mounting.Also gonna have to mill a bit off it to clear the exhaust exit on the barrel. Idealy it would need supporting somehow but I'm toying with the idea of bolting it straight to the backplate which should mean its plenty rigid and as I'll be going slowly shouldn't wobble about too much.

That's all for now👍🏼

What's 7/16 in mm again?

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SpacedMarine
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September 21, 2020 - 8:15 pm
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Well I've knocked the rebore on the head for now bit of a shame as I finished the fixture off.Dad reckons itll be too "wobbly" and to try a set of rings so I cynically bought a set to prove him wrong.Oh well even though the gaps are roughly 0.4mm and are over spec what would you know!Runs a treat.Maybe the new carb helped (probably) anyway I made a set of punches from some scrap to make some new gaskets.Note "home made" tufnol spacer!I also took my own advice and knocked the timing back(ethanol,lead etc.) and have also ordered a 30 main jet.edit.(pilot jet).Starts pretty much straight away hot or cold running 25:1 for now and just a whiff of smoke done about 50 miles so far and even been to work on it the last couple of days so we're getting there!How long has it been now???Screenshot_20200921-200338_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20200921-200344_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20200921-200353_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20200921-200357_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20200921-200404_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20200921-200414_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20200921-200421_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20200921-200426_Gallery.jpg

What's 7/16 in mm again?

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SpacedMarine
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January 8, 2021 - 3:13 pm
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Been a while.Quick update in case anyone is interested.Bit cold in the garage at the moment and snow on the ground just a couple of videos of the crank i built.I'd guess this is my second prototype.Checking for trueness got to within approx 5 thou on the journals one side and 2.5 on the other which means half that(2.5 thou and 1.25 respectively) at the shaft end once installed.Quite happy as i marked the big end hole out seperately on each crank web rather than making one drilling and reaming operation on both webs which should mean that both holes are perfectly alligned which i will do on the next one which im hoping will be good enough to use in my bike.Got the other side to within 2.5 thou on the journals which is better but something isnt quite right but bear in mind the shafts are just some centre drilled mild steel bar turned down to be a press fit in the webs so its possible that the centres have made the drilled centres on the shaft oval as mild steel is pretty soft!

heres hoping the weather warms up and hoping everyone had a good christmas and new year.

What's 7/16 in mm again?

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Alan.Moore
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January 8, 2021 - 6:31 pm
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Nice work,

Might be worth checking them with a couple of bearings fitted resting on in V blocks just to see whether it is the centers that are out?

Cheers

Alan

1939 Ariel VH, 1942 Ariel WNG, 1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird, 1970 BSA Bantam B175, 1980 Honda CB250N, 1986 Yamaha SRX600

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SpacedMarine
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January 8, 2021 - 7:03 pm
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Alan.Moore said
Nice work,

Might be worth checking them with a couple of bearings fitted resting on in V blocks just to see whether it is the centers that are out?

Cheers

Alan  

Ta Alan.The cranks actually in pieces now that was kind of an exercise in what I could do.Im actually going to make one with plates(i know glutton for punishment) but I'm going to affix them like I did with the original one I had.Im on the lookout for a decent secondhand rotary table as I want to mill the side of the webs away and hopefully it'll be as near as damn it a "reproduction" crank.I could just drill a couple of big holes in the side to counterbalance it but I think if I did that it would be too heavy overall.I am tempted to make some thicker shafts to stop it flexing at high rpm but would probably have to strengthen the cases to make it worthwhile and I'm not intending to race it (just yet 🤣🤣🤣) so no point plus it would go against the idea of a reproduction.

It's not that I havent got a working crank in the bike already and I could just buy a second hand one and fix it up but I've got this far.plus I liked the way it went with plates on 😁

What's 7/16 in mm again?

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