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Neily's D14
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Neily
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December 29, 2019 - 9:09 pm
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potbank said
Hi , if it's a D14 frame then it should be 3/8 cycle (26 tpi)
Mike.  

might need help mike 

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mikef
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December 29, 2019 - 9:26 pm
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Hi Neil.
    Yes, I think that 3/8 cycle 26TPI is correct for the D14. Draganfly list the same part for D14 and B175 which is not correct according to the BSA parts book.
A helicoil or timesert would enable a standard bolt to be fitted. If you have managed to source the bolts then it would be possible to use a helicoil or timesert suitable for the bolts that you have obtained.

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nickjaxe
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December 29, 2019 - 11:20 pm
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I just drilled a fresh hole to take a fatter bolt...locktited the nut on...been on 4 years now still fine.

My Bantam video              https://www.you.....jpOFmzRZRI

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mikef
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December 29, 2019 - 11:54 pm
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Thanks Nick that could be a good option.

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cocorico
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December 30, 2019 - 7:42 am
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It looks as if you need to do some research on the internet. You have a link for timeserts, have a look at this site for helicoils: ** Please log in to view **

If you use a helicoil (and probably the same for a timesert) you don't need the original thread form for the stand bolt, it's probably easier to find a metric equivalent. You then look for that size helicoil. The kit comes with an oversize tap for the coil, you drill out the old hole for the tap, tap the hole, insert the coil and should then have a repaired hole for the stand.

You can probably find videos on You Tube to show how - most things are covered, maybe not Bantam specific, but it's all basic engineering. Example: ** Please log in to view **

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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nickjaxe
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December 30, 2019 - 10:10 am
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mikef said
Thanks Nick that could be a good option.  

Pick your drill bit carefully to be a snug fit for the bolt....if you go down this route.

I am lucky...I have access to 1000s of nuts/bolts.

My Bantam video              https://www.you.....jpOFmzRZRI

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Neily
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December 30, 2019 - 7:53 pm
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So I bought a new stand for a D14...it turns up inch short!!

Anyone had this?

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Stoo63
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December 30, 2019 - 8:12 pm
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You don't tell us where it is an inch short?Top or bottom - a pic would be helpful.  Or where you got it? You certainly don't seem to be having much luck, Neil. You must be wishing that you'd stuck to the Raleighs. It normally isn't this difficult but perhaps you've just acquired a particularly awkward machine. Might be an idea to get your hands on a set of imperial taps and dies - there are plenty available on the internet -  and then you can check all these thread sizes for youself in situ as some of them may not be as recorded in the BSA literature or as featured on other members' bikes. Most members are only too aware that there are so many variations in everything on the bikes and often it's a case of finding the best solution for your particular machine. It all depends if you're wanting it to reach the same standards as your earlier velocipedes. Many of the bikes on here often have metric(shudder) components as that is likely to be what is produced nowadays. There are many rebuilders who have started off adamant that they wont have any mm on their bike but the circumstances can often dictate differently. Was there a particular problem with the stand that you've had to replace it now? The topic seemed to be about threads rather than the stand itself. We saw the bolts and they didn't look too pretty but didnt see the stand. It certainly does seem to be one thing after another for you at the moment but, hopefully things will get less complicated in the new decade. Nil desperandum, as they say.......

'52 D1 direct lighting plunger, '58 Square Four (project), '59 D1 direct lighting plunger,  '59 Tiger Cub, '60 5TA,  '76 FS1-E

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Neily
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December 30, 2019 - 9:21 pm
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Inch  short top to bottom 

Think I bought a pup.hopefully I can bring it back to life....that or break it bought it from classic bike shop in redditch.

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nickjaxe
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December 30, 2019 - 9:27 pm
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Are you comparing it to your old one Neily.

My Bantam video              https://www.you.....jpOFmzRZRI

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Neily
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December 30, 2019 - 9:42 pm
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yes nick. its inch shorter overallrsz_20191230_213120.jpg

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Neily
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December 30, 2019 - 10:00 pm
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Am i wrong comparing old to new as looking online they all seem to be 8 inches in length

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Neily
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December 30, 2019 - 10:11 pm
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Stoo63 said
You don't tell us where it is an inch short?Top or bottom - a pic would be helpful.  Or where you got it? You certainly don't seem to be having much luck, Neil. You must be wishing that you'd stuck to the Raleighs. It normally isn't this difficult but perhaps you've just acquired a particularly awkward machine. Might be an idea to get your hands on a set of imperial taps and dies - there are plenty available on the internet -  and then you can check all these thread sizes for youself in situ as some of them may not be as recorded in the BSA literature or as featured on other members' bikes. Most members are only too aware that there are so many variations in everything on the bikes and often it's a case of finding the best solution for your particular machine. It all depends if you're wanting it to reach the same standards as your earlier velocipedes. Many of the bikes on here often have metric(shudder) components as that is likely to be what is produced nowadays. There are many rebuilders who have started off adamant that they wont have any mm on their bike but the circumstances can often dictate differently. Was there a particular problem with the stand that you've had to replace it now? The topic seemed to be about threads rather than the stand itself. We saw the bolts and they didn't look too pretty but didnt see the stand. It certainly does seem to be one thing after another for you at the moment but, hopefully things will get less complicated in the new decade. Nil desperandum, as they say.......  

yes i love getting them back to how they were ...before and a year onrsz_wp_20160124_11_04_07_pro.jpgrsz_0w1h7892.jpg

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Stoo63
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December 30, 2019 - 10:37 pm
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Are you sure that the one that was fitted was original? Have you tried offering it up to the frame to see if it fits?  If it doesn't I'd be sending it back.... perhaps a pic of the "problem" stand that you're replacing might help diagnosis. You really aren't having the best of luckfrown

Edit:If you have a look on the forum there are quite a few topics about this, many of them with comparative pics regarding D14 and b175 and the inch - inch n a half difference apparently

'52 D1 direct lighting plunger, '58 Square Four (project), '59 D1 direct lighting plunger,  '59 Tiger Cub, '60 5TA,  '76 FS1-E

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Neily
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December 31, 2019 - 6:44 am
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yes i thought i had read it somewhere. this one is 8 inches from hole centre to end of stand but everywhere i go they seem to be advertised at the same size

rsz_1rsz_20191231_063538.jpg

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cocorico
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December 31, 2019 - 7:58 am
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I'm afraid you are finding out the hard way what owning a 50+ year old bike can bring with it! You never know what 'improvements' a P.O. has made, original spares are hard to find and modern replacement parts can be generic rather than specific. For me, before starting to repair anything on the chassis, I'd get the engine running - it is the heart of the machine and is easier to sell-on if the rest of the bike then turns to poop - not that I think this one should! You may find it easier to repair your old stand, than fuss about over the new. One thing though, you need to have some mechanical skills to do many of these repairs, or buying them in is going to get very expensive.

Get it running - whatever the state cosmetically - and you can start to enjoy it more. You don't actually need a stand as long as there is a convenient tree, wall or lamp post to lean it on. Then you can start a 'proper' restoration, if you want to.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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mikef
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December 31, 2019 - 9:23 am
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Hi Neil.
        I bought one of those stands a few weeks ago and it is OK. 8" is the correct. Your initial problem with the stand was that the bolts were loose in the mounting holes. This will cause the stand to be at the wrong angle effectively reducing the lift height when in use.
Another problem that affects the angle of the stand is wear on the lugs that act as a stop. If these are worn they can be built up a bit with weld.
I think that you won't know for sure until the stand bolts are sorted.

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nickjaxe
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December 31, 2019 - 11:06 am
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What was wrong with your old stand?

My Bantam video              https://www.you.....jpOFmzRZRI

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mikef
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December 31, 2019 - 12:28 pm
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Hi Nick.
      I think that I can answer that question. The stand didn't lift the bike high enough and the bolts were loose in the mounting holes. Hopefully fixable easily enough.
What interested me in all of this was Stu's comment that D14 and B175 stands were different. I must admit that I hadn't seen previous posts relating to this and never knew that they were different.
It prompted me to look in the parts book and sure enough D14 part number 90-427 and B175 part number 82-8706.
So I can only assume that the B175 stand is different (probably longer) than the D7 - D14.
Anyone with a NOS B175 stand that they can measure?
I would like to ring BSA's technical department but cant find a number.

Mike.

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December 31, 2019 - 2:37 pm
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hi Mike   the  BSA O Club   cannot  be  recheed  by  phone     if  thats   wot   you  wont    or   this  ern   i   beleave

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