A A A
Avatar

Please consider registering
Guest

Search

— Forum Scope —






— Match —





— Forum Options —





Minimum search word length is 3 characters - maximum search word length is 84 characters

Register Lost password?
sp_Feed sp_PrintTopic sp_TopicIcon
Neily's D14
Avatar
Neily
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 75
Member Since:
December 2, 2019
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
1
December 2, 2019 - 11:04 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Hi all

I am new to owning a D14/4 .is engine lubed by oil fuel mixture and if so what ratio please.also what is best oil for gearbox?

Thankyou

Avatar
Stoo63
GLASGOW
Area Rep
Forum Posts: 513
Member Since:
April 19, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
2
December 2, 2019 - 11:40 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Hi Neily and welcome to the forum. There is a vast amount of info available here and your questions are probably the most commonly asked. There are a million(and more) opinions on the subject of oils and mixtures.Your best bet is to google "fuel mix d14 bantam forum" and you will get loads of results like this....** Please log in to view **

That should keep you going for a while. Just replace "fuel mix" with " gearbox oil" for your other or any other query. Yes the engine is lubricated by the petroil mix.

It's best to do a little intro- tell us where you are etc, so that if there are any members near you, they can perhaps help out.

similarly photos are very handy. Check here ** Please log in to view **

All the best

Stewart

'52 D1 direct lighting plunger, '58 Square Four (project), '59 D1 direct lighting plunger,  '59 Tiger Cub, '60 5TA,  '76 FS1-E

Avatar
AdrianS
Harlaston Staffs
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 128
Member Since:
August 8, 2014
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
3
December 3, 2019 - 2:51 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

If you have got the original petrol cap then that has a measure underneath it. 25:1 is (was) recommended but with modern high quality 2 stroke oils I think it is safe to use slightly less oil in the petrol.  Also remember that as the petroil mix is used to lubricate inside the engine, don't shut the throttle off going down a long steep hill - you cut off the lubrication of the engine.

As for gearbox oil, I don't think the box is too fussy. I think the handbook recommended 40w oil but I use ( and have used for many years in all my BSA bikes ) cheap 20w50 oil and never had any problems! 

You will get lots of different opinions!!

Avatar
Neily
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 75
Member Since:
December 2, 2019
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
4
December 3, 2019 - 8:33 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

AdrianS said
If you have got the original petrol cap then that has a measure underneath it. 25:1 is (was) recommended but with modern high quality 2 stroke oils I think it is safe to use slightly less oil in the petrol.  Also remember that as the petroil mix is used to lubricate inside the engine, don't shut the throttle off going down a long steep hill - you cut off the lubrication of the engine.

As for gearbox oil, I don't think the box is too fussy. I think the handbook recommended 40w oil but I use ( and have used for many years in all my BSA bikes ) cheap 20w50 oil and never had any problems! 

You will get lots of different opinions!!  

Thankyou both.Names Neil and I live in North Essex near Halstead..Colchester. be great to hear from some local Bantam fellas!

Avatar
Peterg
Top Gear User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 1188
Member Since:
October 1, 2012
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
5
December 4, 2019 - 9:45 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

BSA amended their recommendation to 33:1 after running in but to be honest they are pretty agricultural and you don't need to go over board to get the exact ratio. Close enough is more than enough for a Bantam.

Avatar
nickjaxe
Runcorn Cheshire UK
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 2065
Member Since:
February 24, 2015
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
6
December 4, 2019 - 11:48 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

All I do on going down long hills is blimp the throttle wide-open every so often on the decent....easy to get into a weak running situation using part open throttle on long hills.

Use a proper measure for your oil...the ratio is not mega important as long as its got aprox 30/40 to one if using modern semi-synthetic 2 stroke oil.

The handbook will tell you to use SAE 40 oil in the gearbox and change it every 1000mls...as well as lubing the gearbox it lubes the crankshaft bearings.

Nick.

My Bantam video              https://www.you.....jpOFmzRZRI

Avatar
cocorico
Central France
Top Gear User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 3318
Member Since:
June 23, 2013
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
7
December 4, 2019 - 5:09 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

I question the 'downhill problem'. Most of the oil in the pre-mix fuel is compressed out of the petrol inside the crankcase, where it lubricates the big end, bearings and under surfaces of the piston & rings. Any oil that reaches the combustion chamber should be burnt and pass through the exhaust, so very little lubrication of the piston from above. When going downhill on a closed throttle, there remains oil in the crankcase to carry on with the lubrication, plus a small amount from however much the bike takes on closed throttle. You would need a very long hill to use it all, in my opinion. But anyone who prefers to blip the throttle should carry on if they find it reassuring, of course.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

Avatar
Neily
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 75
Member Since:
December 2, 2019
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
8
December 7, 2019 - 11:29 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

I have just bought a D14.  It has 12v and electronic ignition.  I personally love originality and i am thinking of putting back to factory.  I will need some parts.  Anyone any thoughts on this....and any parts available please?  Thankyou.laugh

Avatar
Neily
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 75
Member Since:
December 2, 2019
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
9
December 7, 2019 - 11:34 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

My intro wasnt good. My name is Neil.  Always loved old bikes.I live in the colchester area of Essex  I have just restored 3 Raleigh runabouts and a Mobylette in process to concourse. I have bOUGHT A BSA Bantam D14 and it has electronic ignition and 12v.  I want to put it back to factory i think but need bits and thoughts. cheers

Avatar
mikef
Chatham Kent
Club Technical Advisor
Committee
Forum Posts: 876
Member Since:
September 30, 2011
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
10
December 7, 2019 - 12:20 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Hi Neily.
       Firstly, yes, all of the parts that you would need to convert it back to original are available from various sources.
Having said that, I have seen that the modern CDI conversions have been very reliable and a 12V system has some advantages over 6V.
I like originality and as my D14 has been totally reliable in standard from I am reluctant to spend lots of money to go the CDI route, but I notice that the only points that are available now are Indian made (not necessarily anything wrong with that) but it shows that replacement parts are becoming more difficult to find.
To convert back to original specification you would need to source an alternator rotor and coils, points, cam and condenser, if yours have been removed and possibly a wiring loom if yours has been extensively modified. You would need to source a 6V horn, ignition coil and all bulbs.
Just my thoughts.
       Mike.

Avatar
Mick W
North Wales
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 954
Member Since:
June 13, 2015
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
11
December 7, 2019 - 12:29 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Hi Neil

Welcome to the forum. Think we have spoken (written) on the Facebook page. 

Have a good look around you will find a wealth of info on here.

Mick

Avatar
SpacedMarine
Up north
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 659
Member Since:
July 1, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
12
December 7, 2019 - 1:41 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

What system is it?I'd consider swapping some bits as I've just converted mine to 12v on the original points.

To be honest the fact you can see in the dark with a decent headlamp its probably worth keeping it 12 volts and swapping over the alternator and putting points back in if that's what you want to do.

Cost wise your looking at an alternator (second hand),points cam and points,6v coil,rectifier and possibly some wiring.Is it still on the original switches?

What's 7/16 in mm again?

Avatar
bantammad
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 141
Member Since:
December 12, 2018
sp_UserOnlineSmall Online
13
December 7, 2019 - 3:36 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Hi bantammad ere like the old saying better to be over seen than over looked here is a breaf insight into a mod I’m using on my special 6v ignition 12v lights  parts required two 6v batteries solid state rectifier convert stater to 12v. wire ignition to one battery as 6v the lights to second battery ie 12v been this way a long time perfect lighting reliable ignition battery’s are the cheap jel type have fun regards LES

Avatar
SpacedMarine
Up north
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 659
Member Since:
July 1, 2018
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
14
December 7, 2019 - 3:51 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

bantammad said
Hi bantammad ere like the old saying better to be over seen than over looked here is a breaf insight into a mod I’m using on my special 6v ignition 12v lights  parts required two 6v batteries solid state rectifier convert stater to 12v. wire ignition to one battery as 6v the lights to second battery ie 12v been this way a long time perfect lighting reliable ignition battery’s are the cheap jel type have fun regards LES  

Very clever👍🏼

What's 7/16 in mm again?

Avatar
nickjaxe
Runcorn Cheshire UK
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 2065
Member Since:
February 24, 2015
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
15
December 7, 2019 - 5:11 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

You sound just like me Neily....a compulsive tinkerer....keep up the good work.

My Bantam video              https://www.you.....jpOFmzRZRI

Avatar
Peterg
Top Gear User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 1188
Member Since:
October 1, 2012
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
16
December 7, 2019 - 5:45 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

In terms of originality it should look like an original bike, so why change back?

The alternator is unlikely to have been replaced. The original 6 volt alternator will chuck out 12 (plus) volts quite happily. Similarly the 6 volt horn is also usually retained.

In terms of efficiency 6 volts and the wiring system was a compromise. 12 voltage controlled systems respond to the draw on the system. That technology wasn't available at the time, so a switched system was used. It stopped over charging the battery at the cost of not being able to quickly recharge a drained system. Also, the old selenium recifier wasn't up to the job and should to be replaced with the later Lucas rectifier (only positive earth) or square rectifier, regardless.

If the bike has electronic ignition it is also likely to have been converted to negative earth. Most Bantams are positive earth, but again it doesn't show!

Avatar
Neily
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 75
Member Since:
December 2, 2019
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
17
December 10, 2019 - 8:49 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

i have a D14 that i bought to ride but it needs work sadly so i found out before i do.  Its a challenge as it has a whine in 3rd gear. strip down i think.

It has electronic ignition and 12v system with no battery. I want to fit a battery to it.  Does anyone know a good electrician that could possibly sort out my wiring at reasonable cost?I know i started thread but found issues since.  So many people have told me to stay with electronic. So i guess i will. I wAnt to wire a battery into what i have and make wiring nice and tidy.  Can you advise me as wiring is not my strong area. Currently have an awfuil push pull switch in headlamp and the original wipac ignition switch is there but bypassed.

Avatar
Neily
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 75
Member Since:
December 2, 2019
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
18
December 11, 2019 - 6:43 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

SpacedMarine said
What system is it?I'd consider swapping some bits as I've just converted mine to 12v on the original points.

To be honest the fact you can see in the dark with a decent headlamp its probably worth keeping it 12 volts and swapping over the alternator and putting points back in if that's what you want to do.

Cost wise your looking at an alternator (second hand),points cam and points,6v coil,rectifier and possibly some wiring.Is it still on the original switches?  

No it has push pull in place of original and ignition bypassed. I want it to look original and I want a battery 

Avatar
cocorico
Central France
Top Gear User
Site Member
Forum Posts: 3318
Member Since:
June 23, 2013
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
19
December 11, 2019 - 8:14 am
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Neily said
I have just bought a D14.  It has 12v and electronic ignition.  I personally love originality and i am thinking of putting back to factory.  I will need some parts.  Anyone any thoughts on this....and any parts available please?  Thankyou.laugh  

Neily said

No it has push pull in place of original and ignition bypassed. I want it to look original and I want a battery   

From your posts and reactions, am I correct in saying that if your bike had an original ignition switch and a battery, you would be happy with 12V and CDI? If so, that could be a lot easier than a complete reversion to 6V. We would need to know what make of CDI has been fitted to discover whether it is purely ignition, or whether battery charging is available.

If you want more than looking original with a battery, ie being original, then you have a whole lot of work ahead of you - reconnecting the alternator, if you have one, sourcing contact breaker and coil, finding an ignition switch, wiring loom, 6Vbulbs, rectifier, battery.

If you look through the forum, there are plenty of questions about faulty ignition switches, buying ignition switches, boiling batteries, faulty points, replacement capacitors, burnt out bulbs - all the components that you appear to want to replace.

There are plenty of members with reliable, running D14s in original trim, too, of course, so I am not disparaging them. Just that if you are happy with 12V CDI, but want a 'proper' switch and a battery, that is easier (and cheaper!) than the alternative.

Your bike to do whatever you want - good luck whatever.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

Avatar
Neily
Top Gear User
Club Member
Forum Posts: 75
Member Since:
December 2, 2019
sp_UserOfflineSmall Offline
20
December 11, 2019 - 1:06 pm
sp_Permalink sp_Print

Yes if I had original switches and a charging battery I would be happy keeping cdi.still need to sus exactly what I have.so if there any lovely gents out there that can throw me help I would b so grateful 

Forum Timezone: Europe/London

Most Users Ever Online: 223

Currently Online: Bee175, bantammad, Number6
12 Guest(s)

Currently Browsing this Page:
1 Guest(s)

Top Posters:

cocorico: 3318

Cornish Rooster: 3314

bart: 3130

Sprung Chicken: 2654

David Dale: 2485

Mags 1: 2356

Piquet: 2324

Blue Heeler: 2261

Munchkin: 2224

nickjaxe: 2065

Newest Members:

_2514

Forum Stats:

Groups: 9

Forums: 48

Topics: 12380

Posts: 106766

 

Member Stats:

Guest Posters: 1476

Members: 1469

Moderators: 0

Admins: 4

Administrators: Bantam-Super, JMD, Springs, Stoo63