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Alan's B175 restoration
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Alan.Moore
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September 6, 2020 - 7:26 pm
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Electrics part 2

I wanted to keep the original twin switches and i found a post by LoneWolf which showed how to wire them up so that you would get power to the coil and the lighting switch with the ignition switch in either the I or E position. Going to 12 volts means you loose the emergency start facility but otherwise I think 12 volts is the way to go. 

Here is the wiring diagram I drew up which also shows the altered wiring for the two switches. I think its a good idea to fit fuses. The horn/brakelight are fed from a separate fuse to the ignition/light feed. The reason is that the horn (more about using a 6 volt horn on 12 volts later) takes about 3 amps and putting it on a separate fuse means the ignition fuse can be smaller giving better protection. I’ve also included a fuse in the feed from the regulator to the battery the reason being that, if there was a short to earth elsewhere in the system this fuse will protect the regulator.

Bantam-12-volt-wiring-diagram-1.JPG

As can be seen there is an earth wire to the headlamp shell and to the rear lamp so these lamps are not relying on the frame for their earth. 

1939 Ariel VH, 1942 Ariel WNG, 1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird, 1970 BSA Bantam B175, 1980 Honda CB250N, 1986 Yamaha SRX600

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Alan.Moore
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September 6, 2020 - 7:40 pm
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Electrics part 3

I decided to do away with the wiring sockets to the ignition and lighting switches because the simplified wiring meant it was easier to use insulated spade connectors directly onto the terminals. The unused terminals were also insulated with terminal sleeves and the whole lot then wrapped in a piece of rubber held in place with a tie wrap.

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Lighting Switch

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Ignition Switch

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sp_PlupAttachments Attachments

1939 Ariel VH, 1942 Ariel WNG, 1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird, 1970 BSA Bantam B175, 1980 Honda CB250N, 1986 Yamaha SRX600

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Alan.Moore
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September 6, 2020 - 8:26 pm
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Electrics part 4

I tend to use ‘Vehicle Wiring Products’ for my wire/cable. ‘Modern’ wire is the ‘thinwall’ type, where the outer sheathing is much ‘thinner’ than the older type PVC wire (hence the name) and it also has different heat resistance properties . This modern, thinner, outer sheathing means the wire has a higher current rating than the older PVC type for the same cross section of conducting wire. For example: the original wire in the harness was 1.0mm squared made up of 14 strands of 0.30mm wire and is rated at 8.75amps. The ‘thinwall’ wire is also 1.0 mm squared made up of 32 strands of 0.20mm wire and is rated at 16.5 amps. 

You can also get thinwall  three core 16.5 amp cable, which is ideal for the rear light and thinwall  11 amp two core cable for the brake light switch. 

SDC13924.JPG

In the main part I stuck with the old fashioned  lucar brass bullet terminals, soldered onto the wires, and matching rubber sleeved connectors. I did use some crimped on spade connectors (not those horrible blue insulated ones) attached with the proper crimping tool and insulated with thetranslucent sheaths.

The finished harness was bound with ‘Tesa’ polyester fabric loom tape with the addition of woven sheathing and heat-shrink in places that may be abraded. 

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Cheers

Alan

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments

1939 Ariel VH, 1942 Ariel WNG, 1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird, 1970 BSA Bantam B175, 1980 Honda CB250N, 1986 Yamaha SRX600

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stubaker58
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September 7, 2020 - 3:48 pm
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Great stuff Alan.  Such an elegant way of doing away with the rubber sockets on the switches, they are a real liability! 

Î

“There’s nothing new under the sun”.

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Sponge
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September 8, 2020 - 9:11 am
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Those rubber sockets – tell me about it. They never seem to go onto the switch properly and when they do they come off in use and create an embarrassing and possibly dangerous electrical breakdown.   

In frustration I  have been replacing all of my switches with Lucas S41 switches as I do re-wires and conversions …but Alan’s Wipac switch solution is an inspiration – so simple yet so obvious, wood and trees etc etc.  Well done mate – you are a leading light that is showing us all the way.  Makes me want to rip my B175 apart and start again. 

Sponge 

 

   

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Alan.Moore
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September 8, 2020 - 7:17 pm
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Thanks for the comments chaps…much appreciated.

Regarding wiring those switches. The ‘blades’ on the original switches are about 4mm wide. The nearest matching non insulated crimp on terminals you can get are 4.8mm but they fit OK. They come in different versions, some will only take up to 1mm of wire (OK if you are just connecting one wire to that terminal) others will take up to 2.5mm of wire so will happily take two 1mm cross section wires. 

I dropped a ****ock  and got some cheap and nasty ones from Ebay that only took one 1mm cable and I ended up using some 6.3mm terminals in order to get two wires in. On the lighting switch it was a bit of a squeeze to get all the terminals on. 

My advice is to get some decent ones from a proper wiring place. I think I’m going to re-do them with some of these (T900) which take up to 2.5mm. They are brass and look 100% better than the rubbish i bought

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Don’t forget to get some of the insulating covers as well.

I also splashed out on a pair of crimping pliers which make a nice job of folding the tangs over onto the cable…

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Onwards and upwards thumbs-up

Cheers

Alan

1939 Ariel VH, 1942 Ariel WNG, 1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird, 1970 BSA Bantam B175, 1980 Honda CB250N, 1986 Yamaha SRX600

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Alan.Moore
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September 21, 2020 - 6:58 pm
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Petrol Tank

Although the petrol tank had a few battle scars and touchups my intention of trying to keep as much of the original finish as possible meant I only intended to spray the bottom (where the paint had completely come off) and the inside of the ‘tunnel’ which again had very little paint and a bit of surface rust. I cleaned everything up, masked it up using low tack masking tape, and after primer applied a couple of coats of black cellulose. Was very happy with the finish and let it dry for a couple of hours.

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Carefully removed the masking tape…no issues until I got to a length I’d only lightly stuck on as a bit of ‘insurance’. ‘Oh dear’ (or words to that effect) as the tape pulled away a big chuck of the original black !!

SDC13988.JPG

So nothing for it now but to strip the old paint off and respray the tank. I could just do the one side but sods law means I’ll have issues with the rest further down the line if I don’t do it all. I used some fine line tape to setout the shape of the panel before removing the old paint. Luckily the old paint comes off with OK with cellulose thinners and some fine wire wool. 

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There was a yellowy/gold coloured primer under the black (probably some type of etch primer?) but no sign of the chrome having been ‘keyed’ prior to spraying.

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It’s beer O’clock now so the rest will have to wait until tomorrow.

Cheers

Alan

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments

1939 Ariel VH, 1942 Ariel WNG, 1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird, 1970 BSA Bantam B175, 1980 Honda CB250N, 1986 Yamaha SRX600

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Alan.Moore
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September 27, 2020 - 7:02 pm
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Petrol tank 2

I keyed the chrome with a grey scotchpad and then gave it a couple of thin coats of grey etch primer

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Followed by a couple of thin coats of red oxide coloured primer. 

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And then three of high build primer applied with a spray gun.

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Then a dusting of red primer.

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The procedure is to flat back (600 and then 800 grade wet and dry used wet) the grey high build primer until the ‘dusting’ of red primer is all sanded away. The red dusting will remain in the low spots until the surface is properly flat. The coat of red primer I applied over the etch primer is there so I can tell if I’ve sanded through the grey high build which means its time to stop sanding!

continued:

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments

1939 Ariel VH, 1942 Ariel WNG, 1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird, 1970 BSA Bantam B175, 1980 Honda CB250N, 1986 Yamaha SRX600

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Alan.Moore
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September 27, 2020 - 7:14 pm
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Petrol tank 3

I then let it sit for a few days to give the solvents time to evaporate before applying the top coat of black cellulose with the spray gun. A light coat followed by three wet coats after each previous coat has flashed off for about 20 minutes.

Here it is, fresh from spraying but touch dry. Just need to let it sit overnight before removing the masking tape. It came out nice and shiny so wont take much polishing so no need for rubbing compound or T cut. Needs to be left a couple of weeks to harden off before polishing. I use a polish that does not contain any wax or resins (Maguire’s Ultimate Polish) as waxing it too early can trap solvents in the paint…cellulose takes quite a while to harden (some say it never really does). 

SDC14019.JPG

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments

1939 Ariel VH, 1942 Ariel WNG, 1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird, 1970 BSA Bantam B175, 1980 Honda CB250N, 1986 Yamaha SRX600

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Alan.Moore
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September 27, 2020 - 7:33 pm
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Seat

The seat base looked basically sound but had a fair bit of surface rust so I decided to remove the cover and do the job properly. The cover was held on by those triangular shaped spikes, which are pressed out of the seat base and then bent over slits in the cover. I managed to carefully bend them all straight and the cover came off OK.

This revealed a number of splits in the metal base around the two mounting bolts for the rear bracket and around the front U shaped bracket. I MIG welded the splits up. I then cut some metal plates, one either side of the base for the rear mounting points and one on the top of the base for the front mount and welded those in place. Finally a couple of new UNF bolts were welded in to provide the mounts for the rear bracket. It was all then etch primed, grey primed and top coated with cellulose black.

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There was one area of the foam which had ‘rotted’ away…odd the rest was OK…so I cut it out with an electric meat knife and glued in some upholstery foam which was shaped with the knife and then smoothed off with a flap wheel on the angle grinder.

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All that remained was to refit the foam (which I glued to the base) and then stretch the seat cover in place, having given it a good clean inside and out. A hot air gun was used to gently soften the vinyl so it could be stretched over the foam more easily. I used the original triangular spikes to secure it but also added contact adhesive along the inner face of the base and cover.

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments

1939 Ariel VH, 1942 Ariel WNG, 1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird, 1970 BSA Bantam B175, 1980 Honda CB250N, 1986 Yamaha SRX600

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Alan.Moore
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September 27, 2020 - 8:03 pm
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Seat 2

When I cleaned the seat cover I had noticed lots of light coloured spots which I could not remove with solvents. It looks like something had got sprayed on it at some time in the past and whatever it was had taken the colour out of the vinyl. 

SDC14009.JPG

I thought of coloring them in with a permanent marker pen but there was just too many. 

Looking on the internet I came across this TRG vinyl spray ( ** Please log in to view ** ) which is like a spray paint but actually bonds with the vinyl rather than just put a coat over the top. Its marketed as being OK for car seats (including leather) and motorcycle seats…..it is waterproof…and loads of other stuff including plastics.

SDC14007-1.JPG

It has to be applied in very thin layers and built up, it suggest 5 layers. The cover needs to be really, really clean before applying so it bonds properly. TRG suggest using their own ‘special’ cleaner but, having already given it a good wash in detergent, I used some panel wipe (which is used to degrease surfaces before you spray paint them).

I have to say it worked really well and completely covered up / recoloured all those light coloured spots. The ‘grain’ of the vinyl can still be clearly seen which I think supports it not just being a ‘paint’ type finish.

SDC14012.JPG

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Cheers

Alan

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments

1939 Ariel VH, 1942 Ariel WNG, 1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird, 1970 BSA Bantam B175, 1980 Honda CB250N, 1986 Yamaha SRX600

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cocorico
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September 27, 2020 - 8:50 pm
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Another interesting and meticulous report there Alan. Thank you.

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Stoo63
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September 27, 2020 - 9:18 pm
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I second, that, Bob. More great work, Alan. Looking terrific. 

'49 LE; '50 D1 Lucas; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting; '60 5TA; '69 D14; '72 Mobylette; '76 FS1-E; '97GPZ500S

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Alan.Moore
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September 30, 2020 - 5:10 pm
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Re-fitting Piston

The piston was at 20 thou over and the original machining marks were still visible. No signs of any seizures and very little blow-by past the piston rings so it was fine to be re-used.

SDC13366.JPG

The bore was unmarked, with no lip at the top. It measure 2 thou over 62mm  1″ down from the top and 1.5 thou over at the bottom so minimal wear (62mm is 20 thou over the standard bore of 61.5mm). 

The piston rings were worn. When fitted 1″ down the bore the end gap was 25 thou, this corresponds to 2 thou wear on the ring thickness when you do the maths. I got a set of 2 NOS 20 thou over rings from Kidderminster motorcycles, who are selling them on Ebay. When fitted the end gap was 10 thou at the unworn top section of the bore and 12 thou an inch down. Doing the maths this gives a bore wear of about 0.5 thou (0.0006) ..all good.

Interestingly, the B175 manual gives very different ring dimensions to those in the D14 manual, both in width, depth and groove clearance. My piston was a Hepolite/AE 17952 and the rings I bought were an identical size to those fitted and the same as the D14 manual dimensions.

I broke the glaze on the bore (to give a better surface for the rings to bed in) using a red Scotchbrite pad, tied round, and glued to, a piece of wooden dowel, with WD40 to lubricate, spun by a cordless drill. A few passes up and down gave a nice cross hatched surface.

I used a small half round file to ‘ease’ the sharp edges of the ports as advised by others on the forum.

The top gasket surface of the cylinder was ‘flatted’ using some 600 grade wet and dry (with WD40) on a granite kitchen cutting block ( bought from Wilco) that I use as a surface plate.

I then made sure it was scrupulously clean as particles of abrasive are likely to get into the ports.

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Continued:

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments

1939 Ariel VH, 1942 Ariel WNG, 1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird, 1970 BSA Bantam B175, 1980 Honda CB250N, 1986 Yamaha SRX600

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Alan.Moore
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September 30, 2020 - 6:17 pm
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Refitting Piston 2

The gudgeon pin had a slight groove in it…looks like a needle from the little end had worn it in the past. Thanks to Sponge (thanks mate) and my local MOT tester I had a supply of second hand pins and I selected one to use again.

I fitted a new IKO (they bought out Torrington I believe) little end (Draganfly). The one supplied did not have a full compliment of needle rollers, like the original, but a reduced number held in a metal cage. I spoke to Rex Caunt as he also supplies this type as well as the full compliment ones. He told me he supplies the full compliment ones for competition use and has tested the caged ones and that they perform OK in a road bike. Looking at needle roller little ends for Japanese machines etc they all seem to be the caged type so I am sure they are OK for a Bantam. 

I pressed the old one out in the vice, using a suitable socket with a bigger socket on the other side for the bearing to be pushed into. I then used the vice (with alluminium protection on the jaws)  to press the new one ‘slowly and carefully’ into the little end. They need to be pressed in by ‘pushing’ on the end that has the lettering on it. Using a vice with aligned jaws should ensure the bearing goes in square.

My piston had the ‘Segar’ type flat circlips with the two ‘eyes’ and are fitted using circlip pliers. I bought some new ones from ‘Trade Classic Bikes’ who are in Belper, Derbyshire. They were identical in size to the original ones.

On the subject of circlips I have read a number of horror stories of these coming out with dire consequences. Its been covered in the past but worth mentioning again that, from what I’ve read, you need the right size and type of circlip for your piston AND the correct type of gudgeon pin.

The round wire type are fitted in a piston groove which has a semi-circular groove AND the dimensions (wire diameter and overall diameter) need to be correct for the piston. Just because the seller advertises them as correct for a Bantam D14 etc does not mean they will fit your piston as it may be an aftermarket one made to slightly different tolerances as regards the groove. I’ve also read that a wire type circlip needs a gudgeon pin with a chamfered on the outside of the end. The chamfer means that if the pin moves sideways the chamfer moves inside the circlip and pushes it tighter into the groove… a flat ended pin can push the circlip out.

I did buy a new pin from Rex, but it had a defined 45 degree chamfer on its outer end, not really suitable for my flat Segar type circlips which originally were fitted with a pin with a square end. I had spoken to Rex before ordering and he said his pins were made to match the new pistons he sold and so maybe not correct for my type of piston…. 

So back to the plot…Fitted the piston to the rod with the word ‘Front’ to the front smile. Heated the piston up with a hot air gun so the pin slid in easily, fitted the new circlips and then fitted the piston into the barrel. The method I use is to wrap a thin piece of tin round the rings and squeeze it tight to the piston with a plastic tie wrap. I use a strip of tin cut from an old 5 litre oil can (the square type) long enough to go round the piston but so that the ends do not overlap when its fully tightened against the piston. Make sure the ends of the rings are correctly located on the two pins in the piston grooves (I marked their location on the piston crown) and put plenty of oil around rings and barrel .

Having fitted the base gasket (don’t forget that !) I placed a strip of wood under the piston to secure the piston in place about half way down its stroke and keep it square as you carefully lower the barrel over the piston. There is usually a slight chamfer on the inside of the lower end of the barrel which helps the rings enter the bore. Just go carefully and slowly…you may have to wriggle the barrel a very little bit but the weight of the barrel is enough to get the rings to enter. If you need to push down stop and check what’s going on. The trick is to make sure the rings are fully pushed into their grooves by the tin strip. The barrel will push the tin strip down as the piston enters the bore. Once its in snip the tie wrap and remove it and the tin strip.

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Then its just a matter of fully lowering the barrel, fitting the head gasket and tightening it down to 18-20 ft/lb progressively using a corner to corner pattern of tightening. I use a thin coat of ‘Wellseal’, applied with a small flat artists bush, to all gasket surfaces as a belts and brazes measure.

SDC14039.JPG

Job donethumbs-up

Cheers

Alan

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1939 Ariel VH, 1942 Ariel WNG, 1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird, 1970 BSA Bantam B175, 1980 Honda CB250N, 1986 Yamaha SRX600

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Stoo63
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September 30, 2020 - 8:35 pm
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Very cunning and smart work as usual, Alan. Great stuff!

'49 LE; '50 D1 Lucas; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting; '60 5TA; '69 D14; '72 Mobylette; '76 FS1-E; '97GPZ500S

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Alan.Moore
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October 5, 2020 - 8:50 pm
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Control cable birds nest tool

I’ve been making my own control cables for a number of years and have been splaying the end of the cable out with a centre punch. A splayed end gives a greater ‘surface area’ of wire for the solder to bond to and, with the solder filled splayed end being solid and much wider than the small hole through the nipple, it prevents the cable being pulled through the nipple.

Some folk splay the cable end and then bend the extreme ends of the strands back in to form a sort of mushroom shape which apparently gives an even stronger fitment. ‘Venhill’ do a ‘bird cage’ tool which forms a similar formed end but at just under £100 there’s got to be another way. (interestingly Venhill appear to be the only company producing such a tool)

venhill-tool.jpg

There has been a previous post on the form that shows a DIY version ** Please log in to view ** but here is my attempt.

For ease of drilling I started out with two pieces of 10mm x 35mm aluminum flat bar (a few quid on Ebay). Having carefully aligned the top surfaces I drilled a couple of 6mm holes through both to assist in keeping them in line whilst I drilled the holes for the cables. I set the ‘block’ up in the vice on the pillar drill and used a small engineers set square to make sure it was square to a ‘centre drill’ bit in the chuck and that the drill was aligned with the join between the two pieces of aluminum.

I then made a shallow centre point cut in the join which provided a centre for the 2mm drill that followed. I then ‘peck’ drilled all the way through the block at about 1500 rpm. ‘Peck’ drilling is where you just take small cuts (about 2x the diameter of the drill) withdrawing the drill from the hole between each ‘peck’ to clear the swarth. Apparently this produces a more precisely aligned hole when using such a small drill. I found that, whilst everything was square, the resultant hole was slightly off square. Out of four holes I drilled only one was spot on. I think the issue is that the small diameter drill has a tendency to go offline because a) you are trying to drill down the centre of the join between the two plates b) the aluminum being soft does not provide much resistance if it does start to wander. Anyway, being slightly off square does not effect the tools ability to form the ‘bird cage’ as the drilled slot is only there so the tool grips the cable firmly whilst the birdcage is being formed.

Based on the shape of the ‘conical’ hole in the 5/16″ brass brake/clutch cable nipples I had I then drilled a 4mm hole, 8mm deep (to form the base of the ‘birdcage’ , and finally a 6mm hole, 6mm deep to form the top of the birdcage and for the 6mm diameter ‘punch’ tool to fit into.

SDC14045.JPG

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I then drilled a countersink  in the end of a piece of 6mm round bar to form the punch. 

 

SDC14063-1.JPG

Continued:

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments

1939 Ariel VH, 1942 Ariel WNG, 1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird, 1970 BSA Bantam B175, 1980 Honda CB250N, 1986 Yamaha SRX600

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Alan.Moore
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October 5, 2020 - 9:06 pm
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So here is the finished tool:

SDC14051-1.JPG

And this is the ‘bird cage end it produces:

SDC14052.JPG

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Jobs a good un

Cheers

Alan

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments

1939 Ariel VH, 1942 Ariel WNG, 1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird, 1970 BSA Bantam B175, 1980 Honda CB250N, 1986 Yamaha SRX600

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Stoo63
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October 5, 2020 - 10:25 pm
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Yet another masterclass, Alan. And another little project for the long winter 🙂

'49 LE; '50 D1 Lucas; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting; '60 5TA; '69 D14; '72 Mobylette; '76 FS1-E; '97GPZ500S

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cocorico
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October 6, 2020 - 7:44 am
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Excellent – just one question. From the look of it, the solder does not even have to flow into the cable? Just a bead of solder into the nest, which is then gripped by the wire strands folded over the top?

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