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Rear Wheel Nuts
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PatricB
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March 28, 2019 - 9:04 pm
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Wondering if anyone else had had problems finding new rear wheel nuts to fit?

Bike is a 1968 D14/4S (full width hub) and, so far, I have got nuts from Draganfly, Rex Caunt and Trade Classic Bikes (part #90-6222, 5/8" CEI 20 tpi), but none of them fit my axle - after a full turn, they meet resistance and go no further.

I've trawled through previous posts on this subject and found someone saying that a 26 tpi, not 20, nut is correct. I bought some, they didn't fit. I also got B175 nuts (UNF thread, I think) - they didn't fit either.

My axle looks like an original part, but I can't find nuts to fit! Anyone got any new ideas? I have the original nuts which fit perfectly, but I would prefer nice shiny new ones! I don't have any means of measuring the threads, unfortunately.

Current bikes: 1968 D14/4 Sports, 1974 Triumph T100R Daytona.

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wildun
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March 28, 2019 - 10:31 pm
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If you have tried that many different nuts from different suppliers and none fit then it is most likely that you have a rogue homemade axle (spindle), or an original that has had a die run down possibly damaged threads. If so, it may even be metric 16mm, 2mm pitch, to take readily available nuts.

This does happen, maybe morally wrong but possibly technically feasible. My D3 1/2" footrest bar has 12mm nuts either end, a future owner will curse me in 20 years time !!

So, I think that you will have to find someone with thread gauges who can identify your spindle thread for you. Or, in desperation, try a 16mm nut.

Assume nothing with a 50 or 60 year old bike, previous owners can have done anything to repair their bike. Good luck.

1951 Bantam D1 125, 1954 Bantam Enduro, 1970 Bantam B175, all Bantams on the road and ridden regularly, 1995 Yamaha Diversion 900 and 2016 Honda Integra 750 scooter. Horses for courses, all very different to each other, but a bike for every occasion.

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mike p5xbx
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March 29, 2019 - 12:31 am
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im reasonably sure the D14S rear wheel nuts are 5/8" CEI 20 tpi
so something is wrong suggest you get a thread gauge to find what yours are
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D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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PatricB
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March 29, 2019 - 5:12 am
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mike p5xbx said
im reasonably sure the D14S rear wheel nuts are 5/8" CEI 20 tpi
so something is wrong suggest you get a thread gauge to find what yours are
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Thanks for that, I've ordered the thread gauge - great price, although delivery is from Hong Kong, so might take a while.

I would be surprised if the threads had been tampered with, its a low mileage bike which has been off the road since 1974, but you never know!

Current bikes: 1968 D14/4 Sports, 1974 Triumph T100R Daytona.

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Sponge
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March 29, 2019 - 8:30 am
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I had a similar problem with a new clutch centre nut on my A10.  Nothing would run down the thread on the end of the mainshaft despite purchasing 5/8 nuts from a number of sources and making sure the threads were spotlessly clean.  Faced with having to pull the gearbox out to replace the mainshaft I spoke to an old BSA engineer who said that all it needed was a die running down the thread to 'clear out all the crap and re-assert some influence' ... as modern 5/8 threads are not quite the same threadform as the original BSA ones and given even a small amount of muck (oil and dirt) in the threads they can stick.  

I got the correct die out and felt quite pensive as it seemed to be actually cutting into my mainshaft but faced with a total gearbox stripdown anyway I just got on with it.  Surprise surprise - the offcuts in the die were actually muck - not metal, even though the shaft end looked spotless.  After that the nut ran down the thread with finger torque beautifully.   Very satisfying.   

So, once you are sure that you have identified the right thread and the right nut - run a die down the spindle end to clean it out and 're-assert some influence'.    

I do this with any original BSA 5/8 threadform now.   

Hope this helps

Sponge

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BASIL
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March 29, 2019 - 9:09 am
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I have bought countless rear wheel nuts for my B175s and have yet had no luck whatsoever. Regards Basil.

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Mannanan
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March 29, 2019 - 9:48 am
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I am not a betting man but if I was, I would say it will take a 5/8 UNF with 18 TPI.  (Not 20 TPI)  

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jolon1
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March 29, 2019 - 5:16 pm
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I spent a fortune trying to find wheel nuts. I ended up sending the whole spindle to MOTALIA. Reasonably priced and quick service. I wish I had done this in the first place as I had spent more on wrong nuts.

Usual disclaimer.

D7 & D1 Racer

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mike p5xbx
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March 29, 2019 - 5:51 pm
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5/8 CEI nuts do come in 20 and 26tpi
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if I get a spare few minutes over the weekend I will check whats on my D14
5-8cei.jpg
Im willing to Bet that is where the confusion with suppliers comes from cry

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D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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wildun
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March 29, 2019 - 9:29 pm
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So at the moment, we have suggestions of either 18, 20, or 26 tpi, if we ignore my wild suggestion of 16mm 2mm pitch which would be very different at 12.7 tpi.

There is quite a difference between 18, 20 and 26 threads over a one inch length. I don't know how good your eyes are, but I would be able to distinguish between the given options using a one inch segment of a six inch steel rule by carefully counting the peaks of the threads. ( I do though, have and use thread pitch gauges in all forms ).

So, while you are waiting for your thread gauge to be delivered, give it a go counting using a six inch rule.

Hope that helps, try anything once !

1951 Bantam D1 125, 1954 Bantam Enduro, 1970 Bantam B175, all Bantams on the road and ridden regularly, 1995 Yamaha Diversion 900 and 2016 Honda Integra 750 scooter. Horses for courses, all very different to each other, but a bike for every occasion.

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SpacedMarine
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March 29, 2019 - 9:34 pm
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You could measure the length of the threads and count them.Work out what tpi they are.

Say there is half an inch of thread on your spindle and 10 threads that would be 20tpi.(threads per inch) good luck.

What's 7/16 in mm again?

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SpacedMarine
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March 29, 2019 - 9:36 pm
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wildun beat me to it!

What's 7/16 in mm again?

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AdrianS
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March 30, 2019 - 1:35 pm
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I just acquired some new rear wheel nuts for my 1968 D14. They were from Rex Caunt. 

They just would turn 1 turn and then lock. I have got a thread gauge and both the axle and the nut were 20 tpi. On the non drive side there is a bit more axle thread exposed. I cleaned the thread well and turned the nut onto the axle with a large adjustable spanner and as soon as the axle exited the nut, any tightness went. The nut felt good on the thread and also no traces of metal were found on removing the nut.

I only assume that the ends of the axle threads were damaged or bruised ,or the profile of the thread on the nut was not quite the same as a CEI thread should be. I would also point out that the nut measured 24mm across the flats and I couldn't use my normal Whitworth spanner to tighten.

I suggest checking you have 20 tpi on both axle and nut and then carefully wind the nut on.

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mike p5xbx
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March 30, 2019 - 4:42 pm
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I checked a D10 and D14 axials and nuts they were both 20TPI
if your Nuts are plated may be worth getting a 5/8 20TPI no2 Tap from Tracy tools

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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AdrianS
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March 31, 2019 - 10:23 am
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Worth checking the tpi - a few web sites also advertise wheel nuts of 5/8 UNF ( 18tpi ) for late Bantams and Cubs so could have a different axle.

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