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Ducon switch
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jimbl
Leeds
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April 2, 2017 - 6:58 pm
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I need to dismantle my original one to replace the horn button Has anyone done this and any pointers about bits that are likely to fly off and get lost in the workshop! Diagram or method would be gratefully received .

b175 x2,d14/4, triumph tr7, ty 175 & bantam cub

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sunny
Norfolk
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April 3, 2017 - 12:58 pm
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hi   Jim   the  Ducon  switch   tips ,,  take  it apart   inside   a  big   plastic  bag   not   in  a workshop  ,,keep   close   to  the  T pot  &  ketle      theres  one  spring    in the  sliding  part  of  the  DIP nob    the  spring  dents  to  get  rusty   and   hopefully stays  in      place    we  tend  to  pull of  the  brown  tufnil  ring    first    this  is wen   bits  go  missing   ,,,  the   disasemly  proses  is  chome  riing   then  wiers   then   brouwn  tufnil   ring  leaving  the  brass contaks    in   the  black   plastic  ring     ,,, be  warnd   this  is  the   bad  part   ,,after   you  manage  to  get  the   tuffnil  ring  off   you  will  be  able  to   fit  a  new  horn or cutout  buton  ,, : then  assemble :   fameus   last   words   i say      a cup  of  tea for  trying   

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jimbl
Leeds
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April 3, 2017 - 6:15 pm
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Many thanks Sunny The plastic bag is a brilliant idea. I had a horrible feeling it would be one of those try not to pull your hair out jobs.

b175 x2,d14/4, triumph tr7, ty 175 & bantam cub

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SpacedMarine
Up north
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February 11, 2019 - 9:19 am
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I've just found what I think is my original ducon switch not sure why it's not on the bike but gotta be worth having a go at.I shall do as you say Sunny and report back.Any idea if the original brake switch would be "refurbishable"? Think I've found that aswell.Looks like the plunger is siezed.

What's 7/16 in mm again?

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stubaker58
Sunny Felixstowe
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February 11, 2019 - 1:29 pm
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Hi

I’ve refurb’d a couple of brake switches.  It is possible with patience to ease the two rivets out by squeezing their splayed end and pushing.  With luck the rivets can then be re-used as bolts don’t look right!

The internals are straightforward and no nasty springing out bits to worry about. Worse case scenario is that you’ll need two worn out switches to make one good’un.

BTW the mounting plate should be a two part he piece that the switch I should riveted to and another oval piece which this bolts to and which in turn is held on the pillion footrest bolt. It is then possible to get a straight pull on the switch rather than it being crooked.

Regards.

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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Mags 1
Northamptonshire.
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February 11, 2019 - 6:51 pm
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If I can put my two penn'orth, personally, I hate the 'around the bar' type Ducon things, I have six or eight in a (plastic) bag somewhere and not a complete switch amongst the lot.

Just too complicated a set up for a horn and dip switch I think.

I'll stick with the cheaper and much more cheerful copies of the Miller etc. types I think.

But good luck anyway, to anyone taking on rebuilding and refitting one.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Aquarius
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February 12, 2019 - 12:55 pm
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Thay were designed to be make before brake to avoid the problams with busting bulbs common with the older type.

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mike p5xbx
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February 12, 2019 - 5:09 pm
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I had something fall off a shelf and break the plastic H/L knob
I was not going to pay the price of a new switch so fixed it with a
slide type from the junk box still working ok after 10years
not MBB but ok on battery lightingswitch4.jpg

sp_PlupAttachments Attachments

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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Mags 1
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February 12, 2019 - 7:11 pm
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I had thought the Ducon switch was fitted to later bikes, like the D14 and B175, but recently looking through the parts book for my 1959 D7, it would appear it's standard equipment on that model too.

I'm trying to keep as many original features as possible on this one, so am struggling a bit at the moment about these switches.

The worst thing I find about them is the job of trying to get wires into silly little hard rubber extended grommet, you think it's just right, until you come to gently twist switch slightly so that controls are nearest thumb position, suddenly grommet breaks free from chromed part and you find yourself either struggling to re-insert the grommet or even worse, taking the whole switch to bits yet again.Hardest at colder times of the year of course, unless you have some hot water or a heat gun handy to soften the grommet.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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