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Baffled!
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nickjaxe
Runcorn Cheshire UK
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May 27, 2016 - 6:51 pm
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Took my B175 baffle out today...not sure if its the correct one for my bike...see pictures.DSCN5713.JPGDSCN5715.JPGDSCN5718.JPG

Last time I took it out I found the middle disc spinning free...I welded it in position...but today when I looked at it I noticed was not in the same alignment as the other 2...the slot that is cut is not in line with the other 2...dont know if this is important or not.

Also I took a picture looking up the pipe and can see a fixed disc...it has 2 holes in it around 3/8th dia...again does it look correct.

Baffles as a mystery to me so hoping somebody can confirm my parts are ok.

Nick.

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Mick W
Chester/ North Wales Flintshire Border
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May 27, 2016 - 7:03 pm
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Hi Nick

This is my baffle mine has obviously lost a plate but works fine. Yours looks ok to me

 

img_0430_3.jpg

Mick

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nickjaxe
Runcorn Cheshire UK
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May 28, 2016 - 3:08 pm
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Thanks Mick...I decided to cut the welds on the middle disc and re welded with its slots in line with the other 2.

Took it for a test ride...seem a lot better...I suspect the way I had it fitted was maybe causing a turbulent exit for the gas.

Still like to see others B175 baffles if anybody has pictures...just to confirm the seating postion of the middle one thats missing in Micks.

Nick.

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nickjaxe
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May 30, 2016 - 10:43 pm
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Mick I wonder if your has been modified to improve performance...how does yours perform in 4th gear?

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nickjaxe
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May 30, 2016 - 10:47 pm
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Just need a picture of a B175 exhaust baffle...if anybody can help...I need to see the layout of the 3 discs.

Nick.

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Mick W
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May 30, 2016 - 11:12 pm
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Nick mine seems to be fine in 4th, it pulls relatively well up hills and accelerates smoothly.  However I have kept the bike below 50 as I am still running in and retightening everything.

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nickjaxe
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May 31, 2016 - 5:27 pm
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Interesting...I wonder if the center baffle that been removed has helped.

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Mags 1
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May 31, 2016 - 7:35 pm
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Seems to me that the three should not be in line, making the pressure and gasses go around and "work harder" or get more "baffled" is the whole idea I thought?

I could be wrong though, but all three in line defeats the object, it seems to me?

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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nickjaxe
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May 31, 2016 - 10:22 pm
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The front and rear are in line...the middle one I re welded with out thinking about it...since I have put it in line with the others the bike does go better...I need to see another one to confirm.

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flintdog
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May 31, 2016 - 10:27 pm
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may b thats y ur bike wont hit 40mph in 5 mins

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nickjaxe
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May 31, 2016 - 10:59 pm
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It does now FD.

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dimitris
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June 2, 2016 - 6:24 am
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Nick, how you get access in those?? I tried to check whats happening in mine, but being a reproduction silencer i think its welded all around and cannot remove baffles.

There is something loose in there, making noise, but cannot see what is that....

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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nickjaxe
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June 2, 2016 - 5:25 pm
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On my B175...there is a nut right at the rear end of the silencer...take that off and the baffle should pull out.

Some repo ones dont and are fixed as far as I know...sounds like your maybe.

If it where mine and I had to see whats going on...I think I would cut the pipe in a position thats not seen...and weld it back up...sounds like you may have a loose baffle.

Nick.

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Stevenod
Oxford to Chipping Norton
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May 19, 2019 - 9:36 pm
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D14 exhausts (and pfresumably others) have a 7mm diameter dent pressed into the side of the chrome exhaust can. About 1 1/2 inches along from the rear end, facing the wheel.

 

This is designed to catch the baffles in case the fixing nuts and the cone fall off. It works a bit like a super crude bayonet fitting. You should notice the noise change before you lose the whole lot.

 

To remove the baffles pull the baffle assembly out til the first slotted baffle hits the dent then rotate the whole baffle assembly anti-clockwise (i.e. unscrew it) til the dent aligns with one of the slots to allow it to pull out a bit further. Repeat three times for the three slotted baffles.

 

To put it back in you have to 'screw' it in by turning clockwise to let each baffle pass.

 

I only found this AFTER my «censored» baffles had fallen out. Had to buy a new exhaust. The dent was badly formed on my exhaust so I drilled it out and replaced with a short M6 bolt. The bolt head inside the exhaust catches the baffles perfectly and a nylok nut keeps it there and is almost invisible near the wheel. Worth putting thread lock on the main fixing nuts too.

 

I shall be welding or rivetting a small bar off centre across the end of the baffles assembly to give more purchase to pull the darn things out.

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