October 4, 2011
As mentioned on the Intro Forum, fifty years after trading in my D3 for a Norton Model 50, my last venture on two wheels, I have acquired a 1968 D14 that has been off the road for 10 years during which time it has had 3 owners and undergone various stages of “restoration”. I suspect the last two achieved little of this, having given up on what seemed a good idea at the time. However quite some money has obviously been spent in the past, lots of new bits but also some very amateurish botched jobs. Having kindly had pointed out to me that the front brake ineffectiveness was the result a rear actuator arm being fitted, I am stripping and working my way through the whole bike to check what else might be amiss. This therefore is my next topic to seek advice on as I tackle this process.
A lurching and wobbly stand was traced to a feeble attempt to arc weld just one side of a broken lug prior to using a rusty 3/8 Whitworth bolt as a hinge pin. The intact lug has the correct shouldered stand bolt but forcing a standard UNF nut onto its 26 TPI thread means this has also been consigned to the scrap bin.
I paste below a PhotoBucket link showing the knackered lug, sadly done after the frame had been quite well painted. As I know little of the possibilities of welding could anybody with this knowledge advise if it is feasible to salvage something from this and redrill and tap 26 TPI, or would a replacement lug need to be located and welded in place ? If so, any sugestions on sourcing would be appreciated. I live near Fleet, Hampshire so also would welcome any recommendation of a firm capable of doing this type of welding work.
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Don't be put off, sure this could be done with basic hand tools as mentioned on previous post, bit of one inch flat steel or similar, cut and file to shape, or angle grinder if you have one ,either drill and tap or get the right size nut and get that welded on the back of your new lug, then get some local welding place to put it all together onto the frame. I quite often make up odd brackets and bits and pieces sometimes quicker, easier and cheaper than trying to source the part elsewhere.
BSA Bantam D1 "150" in use regularly often as general purpose transport, quite a few other bikes as well. Cornwall Area Rep.
October 4, 2011
October 4, 2011
Just to check out the new forum system for adding to an old thread, although now relegated to page two and no longer viewable as such, I'm adding a "blind" update to my D14 stand saga via the "reply" feature to see what happens.
A new lug was fabricated and drilled with a pilot hole before being welded to the cast iron hub unit as kindly suggested in my earlier thread. I then reamed it out further and tapped it to take new stand bolts. I was quite pleased with the result as shown below:
Problems arose however when I came to fit the stand back on, the legs were misaligned by about 1/2 " and the two lugs had a toe-in of nearly 10 degrees ! I double checked the alignment of the newly welded lug and it was spot on, the problem was a baly twisted stand which I had not noticed earlier as it had been pristinely powder coat painted, as had the original lug prior to it being broken and botch brazed.
I suspect it was an attempt to force fit the twisted stand that had done the damage in the first place. However brute force and a propane torch have returned the stand to a reasonable degree of alignment and it has all gone back together quite nicely, another job ticked off the growing list of faults I am discovering - the joys of eBay buying !
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