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D10 elecrical problems.
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Andrew
Holmes Chapel, Cheshire
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April 2, 2019 - 8:57 pm
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Hi, I have nearly finished restoring my D10 silver. Just the electrics to check and hopefully she will start up. I bought a new battery after ensuring it is the correct type and fully charged it. Fitted it and......nothing. No lights work, no horn, no rear light, no rear brake light. I don't know where to start checking as i am a real novice with electrics. Can someone help me please? I have no idea what to check or how to test each part. I have bought a multimeter but don't know how to use it so yes, I am really stuck. I have checked all the connections are good and they look ok to me but that is as far as I can go.

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cocorico
Central France
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April 2, 2019 - 9:14 pm
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Switch the multimeter to a DC volts range (10V probably). Attach the + lead to chassis / battery +, you should then be able to trace 6V from the battery -, through main fuse (if you have one) to ign switch, through that to one side of HT coil, through HT coil to the points (if the points are open, the 6V should disappear if the points are closed). Similarly with the lights, 6V to light switch, with lights on, 6V to one side of the lamp holder, through lamp to chassis (ie lamp lit), if you have 6V on one side and the other, you have a bad chassis connection. Horn and stop light are probably unswitched, so should have 6V to the horn switch (or brake switch), then to the horn (or brake light) when horn button (brake pedal) are operated. If neither work, check their earthing or continuity.

The Bantam Club Forum - all the answers are in there.

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Andrew
Holmes Chapel, Cheshire
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April 3, 2019 - 10:35 pm
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Thanks for your help Cocorico. So i took a deep breath and started to check the system as you explained.

Battery was good. Power into the brake light switch but nothing coming out! that switch needs replacing so the first thing i checked had a fault. I bi passed the switch and got power to the rectifier, coil, horn and points. Excellent. Still no lights though. Is the lighting system on a separate circuit? Can you explain a little more how i start to check the lighting system please? The dissapinting thing is that while i have power to the rear light it doesn't work on either the light or brake light.

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cocorico
Central France
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April 4, 2019 - 7:34 am
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Well done so far - I'm afraid I can't help much more on the D10, though I know that the switches can cause problems, together with poor chassis connections on older bikes. Have you looked at the Workshop Manual in the Members' Area?

The Bantam Club Forum - all the answers are in there.

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sunny
Norfolk
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April 4, 2019 - 8:49 am
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hi  some  photos   mite   help  us  understand if   posable   

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stubaker58
Sunny Felixstowe
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April 4, 2019 - 10:18 am
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Hi,

If you have power to the brake light switch and power to the rear light it’s worth checking the earth contact.  Firstly look at the bolt at the rear of the tank which should have the earth wires, it may well be an idea to loosen the nut and remove any paint/rust on the frame so as to get a good earth connection.  The rear light depends on the fitting earthing through its mounting bolts and again if there is paint it will prevent a circuit being made.  Mags is often saying that running a separate earth wire from the frame earth to the fitting is the best solution and he’s right, scraping some of the paint/rust off may give you a temporary solution.

Happy hunting.

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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AdrianS
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April 5, 2019 - 1:58 pm
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A lot of electrical problems are caused through poor earthing.

I recently restored a D14 and painted all the tin ware. Unfortunately this also painted over a lot of earth connections.

I dremelled around a lot of the mounting holes for the tin ware components and fitted new nuts and bolts and then painted over them to seal the metal.

Make sure every metal component has at least one metal to metal connection to act as a continuous earth.

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