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B175 lack of spark
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Mags 1
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December 31, 2018 - 5:02 pm
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johnsullivan said
Yes I do this but pop a bulb in the line as a sort of smoother.  

John, putting a bulb inline with a charger doesn't 'smooth' anything, only a capacitor can do that, the low resistance in the special resistance wire inside the filament will simply resist any charge going to battery.

I once owned an old scooter type mini 6 volt charger which did in fact use a 6 volt bulb in it's circuit, you could tell by the brightness of the bulb just how much charge was going in, when bulb was dim battery was charged etc. never looked at the circuit of the charger, but I doubt it was simply wired into the output red lead.

Maybe other more electrically capable folk might like to comment on this one?

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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not henpecked
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December 31, 2018 - 6:51 pm
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Hi All

Certainly check the cleanliness of the points as Peterg recommends. My neighbour had a Sthil chain saw that wouldn't start and that was due to an oily film on the points. Once cleaned off, it never failed to start.

B175, being updated & now much closer to completion. Honda XBR 500, and ....... Suzuki Burgman 200 scoot! Nicknamed "The hair dryer" - by me I hasted to add; & great storage under the seat when you get to your destination.

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cpimm
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December 31, 2018 - 7:14 pm
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image-7.jpegThanks everyone. Will check points though one of the first things I did was clean them and check gap. I think I've just got a standard plug cap but I will try connecting the plug directly to the HT lead. 

Replacement rectifier arrived. Anyone know how to wire it as replacement for the plate rectifier which only has three connections while the new one has four? Picture of my existing (rusty!) rectifier and the wiring colours is at the start of this topic and I'll try and attach a pic. of the new one.

Cocorico, I'm not too great on auto wiring! Would you mind just explaining in simple terms how to do the hot wire check of the points?

Have a very Happy New Year everyone.

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cocorico
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December 31, 2018 - 7:56 pm
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For the rectifier. 2 leads from the generator go to the 2 terminals marked ac or ~, then if you are on +ve earth, + terminal to earth and - terminal to battery. (But check whether the rectifier case is connected to one of the output terminals, if it's connected to the - terminal you need to change to -ve earth, or isolate the case from earth, or buy a different bridge rectifier).

For the 'hot-wire', cb terminal of coil to the contact breaker/capacitor. + terminal of coil to battery +, preferably with a croc clip or through a toggle switch.

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johnsullivan
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December 31, 2018 - 8:14 pm
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Any load on a circuit  will in effect smoooooth it quantum  probably .Will consult.

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. Suzuki 89  DR 250S, Sinnis SC 125. 78 Honda 90  75 Montesa Cota 247 an electric scooter of famous make.

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cocorico
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January 1, 2019 - 9:03 am
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Using a lamp in series with the battery has the effect of limiting charge current. If the battery is discharged, pos terminal is (approx) 6v, when fully charged it rises to (approx) 6.8V so the lamp will dim as charge rises. It doesn't actually smooth the voltage as a capacitor would, just damps any sudden change by the effect of heating (or cooling) the lamp filament. Crude but effective.

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cpimm
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January 10, 2019 - 10:40 pm
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Success! Worked through the above suggestions and, (unless it's an intermittent fault or something else which is going to resurface as soon as I post this!), narrowed it down to the switches. Although they tested out okay with a multimeter according to the workshop manual, it wasn't until I really cleaned up the female connections on the light switch that I managed to get a weak spark in the 'E' position. I then really went to town with WD 40 and sandpaper rolled around a small screwdriver and managed to get a decent spark in both switch positions using the light switch. I've still to see if I can achieve the same result using the ignition switch so might have to order another. I bought a new battery but managed to get  the bike running on the (very) old one.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and pointing me in the right direction. Come up against a few more problems though. When I tried a test ride the bike stalled as soon as it was put into gear, hardly any movement of the clutch lever on the handlebars. Can't seem to adjust the clutch as shown in workshop manual. If I back off the centre pin as per the instructions then just screw it in until I feel resistance there is so much slack cable at the lever the clutch doesnt depress and the engine just stalls when put in gear. If i screw the pin in to take up the cable slack then the clutch slips and the bike hardly moves. Also kick start return Spring doesn't seem to return the lever to upright very well. Might have to start a new thread!

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mcafee
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January 11, 2019 - 11:25 am
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Hi glad you got it running.I am not sure what the problem is but I restored a Triumph Tiger 90 which had a similar problem.The bike had been stood for 30 years and when I took the chain case cover off Ifound the clutch plates were all stuck together.If youneed to take the clutch apart send me a pm as I have got some Bantam special tools.

Good luck David

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nickjaxe
Runcorn Cheshire UK
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January 11, 2019 - 1:47 pm
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Well done getting it running...

My Bantam video              https://www.you.....jpOFmzRZRI

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Peterg
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January 11, 2019 - 10:41 pm
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There were two types of handle bar. Those with an adjuster and those without. If you have one without and a cable of an adjuster, the inner cable will be too long.

You should adjust at the clutch and work back to the handle bar.

Being the same, have you tried the ignition switch as the lighting switch?

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cpimm
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January 12, 2019 - 12:41 am
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Thanks for the tool offer David. I'll message you if needs be. Hopefully though it's just the cable.

I have managed to ride it up and down a lane next to the house, getting into second gear but I have to get going with loads of revs and a 'rolling start' otherwise it just stalls! 

Peter when you say adjust at the clutch and then work towards the handlebars do you mean the clutch should be set as per the workshop manual,with a small amount of play between the pushrod and the clutch mechanism? If I do this there is so much free play at the handlebar that pulling in the lever doesn't operate the clutch and obviously the bike won't go into gear (or, if I get it going with a rolling start, I can't stop !!) I think I had read somewhere that there were two different lengths of cable according to whether the lever had an adjuster. My clutch lever doesn't have an adjuster. The cable appears to be original, it's certainly not newish but I suppose someone may have replaced a broken cable with a used one of the wrong length. The only way I can ride the bike is to screw the push rod in until the cable is tight enough at the lever to allow the clutch to engage. Would this mean the clutch is slipping? Difficult to tell when only riding a short distance.

Are there measurements for the two different types of cable?

I haven't tried the ignition switch yet, that's my next job! 

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Blue Heeler
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January 12, 2019 - 12:12 pm
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You  must have clearance between adjuster screw and pushrod or else you are preloading the clutch. My D14s have knurled adjusters on both brake and clutch lever brackets, no idea if that`s original fitment, but such parts are available at a reasonable price I`ve noticed recently.

Blue 

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mcafee
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January 13, 2019 - 11:01 am
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Morning,There seems to be a variety of cables for the B175.I bbought a new clutch cable from Rex Caunt ,a much respected supplier, but found that the inner cable was a few cms too short so I had to make up a longer one.My bike has cable adjusters so I reasoned that the one I bought was for a set up with no adjusters.

Again good luck David

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Peterg
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January 13, 2019 - 2:05 pm
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mcafee said
Morning,There seems to be a variety of cables for the B175.I bbought a new clutch cable from Rex Caunt ,a much respected supplier, but found that the inner cable was a few cms too short so I had to make up a longer one.My bike has cable adjusters so I reasoned that the one I bought was for a set up with no adjusters.

Again good luck David  

It's a lot easier to shorten then lengthen one! An alternative would be to buy a lever with an adjuster

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mike p5xbx
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January 13, 2019 - 5:47 pm
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cpimm said
Can't seem to adjust the clutch as shown in workshop manual.

the problem with the Bantam clutch cable is the different levers fitted to the early and later bikes and dealers not know what they are selling or what they fit or replacement with adjusters
there is no adjustment on the cable so it has to be the correct length between outer and inner for the clutch to work correctly
with the cable fitted to the H/bar leaver and the inner pulled tight there must be 3inch or 76mm of inner cable protruding from the outer to the end of the nipple

D14-cable.JPG

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