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More Ibayorkies D1
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lbayorkie
Otley, West Yorkshire
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September 7, 2020 - 9:16 pm
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I'm not about to rebuild the engine but in any case I don't think higher gearing would suit the terrain around here.  Maybe my weight is the only problem!

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GlenAnderson
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September 8, 2020 - 9:04 am
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lbayorkie said
Would a re magnetised flywheel make a difference?  

Possibly. 

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lbayorkie
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September 8, 2020 - 12:14 pm
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I'm just wondering if it's possible to check the output/continuity of the lighting coil without removing the stator plate using a multimeter. I assume it's a case of out to g the red probe onto the lighting post and the other onto the chassis, is that right?

If I can establish there is power it will tell me the switch is at fault.

Thanks

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Number6
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September 9, 2020 - 3:10 pm
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Is it direct lighting version? (No battery) sorry can't remember, if you said what it was.

If it is then yes, an Ohms test with multimeter should show from lighting coil terminal on switch, to ground.

If battery version, has a rectifier, so instead of ground connection it will be the white wire of generator. Goes to one AC input of rectifier.

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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lbayorkie
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September 9, 2020 - 5:10 pm
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Yes, Geni-mag direct lighting. I note you mention the terminal on the switch. I was thinking more of using the post on the stator plate that the red wire attaches to. 

It's the coil I want to check. If I check at the switch I assume it would also register no continuity if the wire to the switch was broken. The check using the switch terminal would be the next one to do, does this make sense?

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Number6
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September 10, 2020 - 12:52 pm
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Yes the stator plate post, you can do both, so if there is a break between the light switch and that stator post, then you will know about it. 😀

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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lbayorkie
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September 11, 2020 - 9:51 pm
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Every Amal 261/361 I have ever seen has had a fibre washer on the jet cap. According to Amal the original part was a metallic washer and this is what they supply as a spare. 

Also, as I have mentioned in another post my Amal 261 has a larger diameter jet cap than my 361, but Amal say their records state they should be exactly the same.

Can any forum member confirm the above please ?

Thanks

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cocorico
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September 12, 2020 - 7:34 am
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I suggest you post some pictures of your carb. I wouldn't worry about whether they supply fibre or copper joints - they both do the job.

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lbayorkie
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Number6
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September 12, 2020 - 7:43 pm
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I got overhaul kit from Burlen (Amal spares) for mine, had a rather weedy (I thought) thin and narrow copper washer for the jet cap, so I got a pack of fibre washers of the necessary size (1/2 inch?) from eBay, fitted one with ACC Silcoset sealant as double insurance as it were, since the base of my carb is quite rough so I wasn't overly convinced that the copper one would work. A thick large dia. fibre washer is what came off, but had long seen better days so I didn't want to try reusing.

hope-that-helps

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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lbayorkie
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September 12, 2020 - 8:22 pm
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Thanks, my 361 has a copper and fibre washer and i agree the copper one is puny.

Burlen had no record of AP1112, or indeed any carbs beginning with this prefix, so its all a  bit of a mystery. It has been suggested that someone had tapped out the carb and fitted a larger diameter cap, but it doesn't look home made to me, in fact it looks like a factory made item. By the way the carb has the right jets for a D1.

I will probably get a 14mm washer and enlarge the internal diameter with some emery paper.

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cocorico
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September 12, 2020 - 9:17 pm
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At 70 years old, I'm not surprised it is not 'as assembled in factory'. Considering your experience with the bike, even less so. The fitting used to cover your jet certainly looks like an old gas fitting to me - but if it fits and seals, what is the problem?

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lbayorkie
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September 12, 2020 - 9:46 pm
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The 261 was  bought independently, so nothing to do with my bike purchase, so I've no reason to believe its not original spec. I think it was natural to compare it with my 361 which has exactly the same design of cap. Its a bit elaborate for a gas stop-end. Anyway all I need is a fibre washer and that should resolve it. 

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lbayorkie
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September 15, 2020 - 9:06 am
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W

Number6 said
Is it direct lighting version? (No battery) sorry can't remember, if you said what it was.

If it is then yes, an Ohms test with multimeter should show from lighting coil terminal on switch, to ground.

If battery version, has a rectifier, so instead of ground connection it will be the white wire of generator. Goes to one AC input of rectifier.  

What reading should I be looking for with the engine running?

Also, is there any reason why the lighting could not be wired up to be permanently on?

My bike uses the bowden cable handlebar lever but as the previous owner didn't have the correct gubbins for the switch inside the headlamp I just have something he cobbled together and trussed up in what seems like a whole roll of insulating tape. I dont really want to disturb it and prefer to check everything else first. All the bulbs are OK except the speedo one.

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Number6
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September 15, 2020 - 4:33 pm
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"What reading should I be looking for with the engine running?"

Zero Ohms or as low as possible. 

My new coil set, each lighting coil is 0.6 (so 2 in parallel 0.3) and the middle charging coil is 1.3 Ohms. 

But at the moment you're trying to find out if there's any connection at all aren't you?

 I know nothing about cable operated switches so can't help you there! laugh

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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lbayorkie
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September 19, 2020 - 2:27 pm
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I found one of those auto continuity testers which uses a lightbulb in one of my toolboxes. With the red on the lighting post and the other end on the cylinder it lit up. I assume this means there is continuity and I can move my investigation on to the wiring and switch which are after the post.

I do have another question, which may sound silly, but how can I tell what the lighting coil output is? Is it simply a case of setting the multimeter to volts when the engine is running and expect a reading of 6v (depending on engine speed?)

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Number6
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September 19, 2020 - 8:43 pm
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Unfortunately it's not simple, it will depend on load. With the correct load, i.e. all lights on, yes you should get 6V (AC!) or thereabouts.

With not load, might be silly numbers, in excess of 12V (AC).

Also depends on engine speed. For idling, low Voltage, at max rpm, as much as it is able to do. How long is a piece of string .. laugh

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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lbayorkie
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September 19, 2020 - 10:44 pm
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Thanks. Next question: why has my rear light got a wire earthing it on the rear mudguard? 

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Stoo63
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September 19, 2020 - 11:18 pm
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To provide a decent earth?

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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lbayorkie
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September 20, 2020 - 8:23 am
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I see from the wiring diagram that there are multiple earths but the only one I can physicaly see is the one on the rear light. My continuity test with the bulb holder just dangling from the frame without the earth connected  indicates there is a circuit so makes me wonder if its needed. 

One end of the wire is attached to the rear mudguard and the other end has come loose at some point so I dont know where it goes as theres no obvious place to connect it to the light fitting. I assume the end had simply been trapped between the part of the lamp that's fixed to the number plate and the bit that pulls out with the bulb holder- does that sound a fair assumption?

This is a basic rear lamp without brake light.

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