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More Ibayorkies D1
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lbayorkie
North Yorkshire
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June 20, 2020 - 6:16 pm
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I spoke to my tyre fitter today and he simply said the rim tape would do the job. Not sure I like that idea.

I need to look up JB Weld, I thought it was an epoxy n I already have some of that.

 

Alan

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TallGuy
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June 20, 2020 - 7:09 pm
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Slightly off subject, I like this paint.. Paragon enamel paint, BSA Bantam Mist Green.. it seems a good match to my original paintwork although with a shiny finish, original paint job has lost it’s shine..

Must admit I’m not after pristine, just a bike with frame and tinware all the same colour.. and I’m brush painting, which I am not the most patient with or like doing.. especially cleaning brushes afterwards.. even so, thought the paint was good.

I hope no one thinks I’m advertising, I have no connection with the company.

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June 20, 2020 - 7:33 pm
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lbayorkie said
I spoke to my tyre fitter today and he simply said the rim tape would do the job. Not sure I like that idea.

I need to look up JB Weld, I thought it was an epoxy n I already have some of that.

 

Alan  

I`ve been my tyre fitter since I was a kid 😉 Fitted two new tyres to my XT350 recently and rear had unused security clamp hole, so just fitted a rubber bung in the alloy rim.

Your tyre fitter is correct, a good rim tape will protect your inner tube, but I`m with you in preferring to fill a spare rim hole that`s never going to be used. JB Weld is a glorified two-pack epoxy yes, and ideal for the job if you rough up the hole a little for it to bite. I also have some magic Plasticine-type stuff with two layers. You cut a piece off the round like Swiss roll, but instead of eating it, you knead it like dough, but instead of baking it, you form it into whatever shape you wish and it sets like steel. I may become my own dentist too 😉  If you want, I can send you a slice. Both products can be sanded down to the profile you require.

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Stoo63
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June 20, 2020 - 10:48 pm
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What did they say, Alan ? It makes their job a bit more difficult, so they're not going to be keen.

If that's what the bike came with, then why not refit it? It would be "authentic" for your bike. Would it alter wheel balance? Negligibly, probably -  and you're not going to be doing above 40 anyway.....

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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lbayorkie
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June 21, 2020 - 8:25 am
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The wheel didn't come with the bike. It's a random used D1 rigid wheel I got on ebay. I dont have a problem blanking off the hole from inside the rim but leaving the hole itself visible. My only concern was using a rigid epoxy to fix a blanking plate would result in cracking eventually. I suppose I could spot weld a thin plate in position with a couple of spot welds and then file them down.

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Stoo63
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June 21, 2020 - 8:54 am
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Sorry, Alan, forgot you'd replaced it. Brain is starting to shut down here.....

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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cocorico
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June 21, 2020 - 9:08 am
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lbayorkie said
...My only concern was using a rigid epoxy to fix a blanking plate would result in cracking eventually. I suppose I could spot weld a thin plate in position with a couple of spot welds and then file them down.  

But you already have the ideal solution - use the security bolt, no risk of cracking or potential damage from welding. You're making unnecessary work for yourself.

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sunny
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June 21, 2020 - 10:55 am
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  hi Alan    the  moor  you do to block  or fill  the  hole   the  biger  the  chance   of  the  rim tape  not being  able  to do  its JOB      id  leve  it  coz ther ant  much   air  presher  if  it  bothers  you  that  much  get a mushroom   repair  plug  gluged  with  contact   glue  the  rim  tape  over it  will help  hold it in   BUT   tyers  &  tubes  naterly  nove   with   road  movement   

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mike p5xbx
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June 21, 2020 - 5:17 pm
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small Mushroom headed set screw with a rubber gasket underneath
you can even get them in Nylon if worried about wheel balance
wonder how many people bother to balance their wheels (I Do )

mushrrom-screw.jpg

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D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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lbayorkie
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June 21, 2020 - 7:45 pm
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I'm not bothered about wheel balancing- not on a Bantam. I made a small plate out of sheet steel and shaped it to match the contours of the inner wheel rim and after taking off all rough edges I glued it with gorilla glue epoxy. I will probably not fill the hole as it adds a bit of character and is part of the wheels history. 

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lbayorkie
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July 3, 2020 - 7:54 pm
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I got a call from the blasters today as they had sprayed a small steel panel with RAL6011. I went down with an original mudguard (which I really think has original paint) to see how close a match it was, needless to say it wasnt, it was quite a bit lighter.

Anyway I think Im going to go with RAL6011, which after all seems to be the RAL which seems to be the 'official' colour of the club.

They had already blasted the wheel and I was surprised to see the finish was very rough, apparently this is normal (says he will lightly blast again before pait goes on)

I had pretty much decided to get the wheel powder coated with primer and then to spray with cellulose however if I get it right, to powder coat it now just needs one treatment with powder and the job is done. If I go down the cellulose route it will need spraying with cellulose primer and then a coat of RAL6011, or a powder coat primer then an etching printer and then a coat of RAL6011. To be honest Im concerned that using a primer and finishing coat without powder primer is going to mean Im going to notice the rough surface caused by the blasting.

Another factor is that blasted and coated the wheel is going to cost me £20-£25. To go down the cellulose route is going to be much more expensive. I got impression it would be at least double.

On balance I think Im going to have to powder coat in RAL6011.

When the time comes to strip the bike down and re-do the paintwork I will have it blasted again and painted with cellulose, same as the rest of the bike.

Next issue is going to be the painting of my aforementioned mudguard. Its going to be a real shame painting over the apparently original paint, but I suppose if its not the same as RAL6011 then it cant be original anyway. on that basis I wont feel so bad.

Top-of-old-guard.jpg

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cocorico
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July 3, 2020 - 8:42 pm
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lbayorkie said
...Its going to be a real shame painting over the apparently original paint, but I suppose if its not the same as RAL6011 then it cant be original anyway...

  

FAQs - BSA Paint codes - they didn't exist at that time. You have the 'original paint', the nearest match would be RAL6018. ** Please log in to view **

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lbayorkie
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July 3, 2020 - 9:30 pm
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Thanks. I've got my whatsits in a twist. I read all the technical info on painting so I knew RAL6018 was the clubs take on Mist Green, but a forum member recommended 6011 and somehow it stuck with me. I will go back to the paint shop on tomorrow and just check what RAL I gave him. Probably 6011, which is why match wasnt good! Can get a RAL6018 sample sprayed up and take it from there. Thanks again for reminding  me.

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Stoo63
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July 3, 2020 - 11:21 pm
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RAL6011, which after all seems to be the RAL which seems to be the 'official' colour of the club.

 

I knew RAL6018 was the clubs take on Mist Green,

NO. NO, NO, NO NO NO! There is NO "official" colour of the Club. The Club has NO "take" on any colour. Good grief, this is one of the most vexed topics on the forum and the one thing that is blindingly clear is that here is ABSOLUTELY NO AGREEMENT WHATSOEVER on any colour for Mist Green. This is the sort of ill-considered misinformation that hogs a vast amount of the Forum's storage to absolutely no useful purpose whatsoever. It only serves to confuse poor users searching the subject in the future. There are at least a billion  threads on this godforsaken topic. We  don't need yet another thread going off on a tangent into this quagmire of supposition and fruitless conjecture. If you got a NOS pot of paint from the factory it would probably look "wrong" after all these years. Old parts are OLD. The paint has changed colour over 60 years. Modern paints are different... BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH.  It's pretty irrelevant anyway as you've chosen to powder-coat for convenience after years of painstaking pedantry over the "originality" and "authenticity" of components.  (vis the recent brass speedo nipple hidden screw thread topic). Pick a colour you like and use it.

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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Hans Kreuzen
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July 3, 2020 - 11:49 pm
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I colour match by eye from the original colour under the tank or the inside of the brake plate, as these areas have not been exposed to the sun.

No two Bantams are the same green unless painted with the same batch of paint in the factory, I found the early Bantams are the darker Pastel Green and the later Bantams are the lighter Mist green.

Very hard to see the colour in the pictures.

Tank-with-correct-BSA.jpg Pastel green20171008_100306.jpgMist green

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1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, 1949 Aus. PMG replica D1 project and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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lbayorkie
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July 4, 2020 - 7:53 am
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So would a September 1950 be Pastel Green or Mist Green, in your opinion?

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lbayorkie
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July 4, 2020 - 8:22 am
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Stoo63, this bike had already been 'restored' by the previous owner and sprayed with aerosols of rustoleum Sage Green (a colour I note has been recommended  as a close match by at least two other members) but which according to John Phelan "is a weird colour for Bantam". In any case the bottom line is the whole bike needs to be resprayed at some point in a colour closer to the colour for its age. I would have preferred to buy an oily rag and keep it that way but I cant really bolt on old used parts with their own finish to a bike that's already been painted. Its one thing or the other.

I need to fit a replacement rear wheel and I thought I would get it painted the colour I intended to paint the rest of the bike in due course. 

It seems it should either be 6018 (pastel green) which is a closest RAL for mist green or 6019 (ludlow green). 

I cant afford to have it sprayed now but I need the wheel in service . I suppose I could just have a powder coat primer and run it like that but I would prefer to have something in green.

The forum technical notes on painting give 6018 as the nearest match, so although it makes it clear this is not an exact match it is the RAL you would expect most people to use. 

Irrespective of the colour or whether I use powder coat or not I want to use as many original parts as I can. The paint is really not critical because it can be re-sprayed at any time. 

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Stoo63
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July 4, 2020 - 8:46 am
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The paint is really not critical because it can be re-sprayed at any time. 

Exactly, Alan. So is it really necessary to be having the same godforsaken discussion about colours yet again?? There is NO definitive  "original" colour.  It's like searching for the Holy Grail - and look what happened to Arthur's Knights!

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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Hans Kreuzen
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July 4, 2020 - 11:10 am
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lbayorkie said
So would a September 1950 be Pastel Green or Mist Green, in your opinion?  

1950 is the darker Pastel green, same colour as my own 1950 bantam.

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, 1949 Aus. PMG replica D1 project and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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youngpensioner
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July 5, 2020 - 8:06 pm
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Way back in the 1970's it was still possible to buy brand new spares from former BSA dealers. These were quite often still wrapped up in the brown crepe paper that was actually marked with the BSA logo. Anyhow the point is that these parts were definitely not all exactly the same colour, more or less the same shade of green but nevertheless slightly different.

I guess in those pre computer days paint matching couldn't be done with the same precision that is available today 

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