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More Ibayorkies D1
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Number6
Lincolnshire
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October 14, 2020 - 10:59 pm
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Well I had the same problem with these mounting holes on mine, I increased the size of the hole to clear the ovalness, and retapped the holes. I used a cycle thread I recall and tapped right through to the hole for the footrest bar.

http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/imagex/misc/hand-point-up.gif

this

 

Had similar on the D3 years ago, had a broken off bolt, me and my dad drilled it out and tapped it next up oversize. It helps that they're not blind holes, but go through to the footrest bar tunnel underneath.

 

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Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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lbayorkie
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October 15, 2020 - 6:04 pm
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Thanks for suggesting the various options. I need to consider which is the easiest for me. I was hoping someone would suggest JD Weld, but maybe it wouldn't stand up to the stresses the stand imparts to the stand plate. 

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rhi010
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October 15, 2020 - 11:00 pm
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Just to clarify, to go into footrest bar hole with the tap, this way a few more threads can be cut to hold the stop bar.

Cutting the bolts to length, just before they emerge into the footrest bar hole, this gives it a good chance.

JB weld isn't good enough to do this I don't think, this joint has a high load from the stand. 

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lbayorkie
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October 16, 2020 - 9:04 am
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Thats a very good tip, the more support the better. In my case I seem to remember the bolt hole is OK at the bottom its just the top of the hole that's gone oval and therefore the top of the bolt where the thread is chewed up. So over winter I will take the engine out and drill out the holes and work out how to re tap.

I've never done this before so is it best to drill the hole out first, then decide the bolt size and thread before buying a tap? 

Thanks

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GlenAnderson
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October 16, 2020 - 1:20 pm
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Dear god no. 

It’s best to decide exactly what size bolt you are going to need to use, then get exactly the right size drill. 

personally, I would not tap it out to the next size up, I would use a helicoil insert to recover the original thread. 

In your situation, I would strongly advise you to get someone competent to do it for you. 

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lbayorkie
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October 16, 2020 - 1:28 pm
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Theres a motorbike place in the town where I live. I presume they will be conversant with heli coils. Only problem is how to get the bike (less engine of course) to them. I need to think about that but its only a mile so I could wheel It there if push comes to shove.

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GlenAnderson
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October 16, 2020 - 2:31 pm
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You’re not a proper Bantam owner unless you’ve pushed it ten miles.

 

Uphill.

 

In the dark.

 

When it’s raining. 

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Number6
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October 16, 2020 - 11:10 pm
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http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/imagex/misc/thlaugh.gif

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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Number6
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October 16, 2020 - 11:13 pm
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JB weld isn't good enough to do this I don't think, this joint has a high load from the stand.

Extremely! I think the D3's one was sheared off by the previous owner's kids "jumping up and down on it", while on the stand, a jubilee clip was then put around in an attempt to restore normal operation

 

 

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Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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lbayorkie
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October 29, 2020 - 7:43 am
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Back to lighting.  I have been looking at voltage regulator/rectifiers. I cant quite understand why the price range is so great. Rex sells them for over £43.50 yet ones that do the same job are available for less than  £10.00. Am I missing something?

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Stoo63
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October 29, 2020 - 7:53 am
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Have a browse of the Forum. There are thousands of posts on this topic. I think all you need is a regulator as you don't have a battery? 

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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lbayorkie
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October 29, 2020 - 8:15 am
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Yes, I only need a regulator strictly speaking but there's much more choice in regulator/rectifiers (and price seems lower)The latter will work fine so may as well go for that.

I've read a lot of posts but they are mainly concerned with technical aspects. My question is commercial, the huge price difference doesn't make sense.

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cocorico
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October 29, 2020 - 8:27 am
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lbayorkie said
...I've read a lot of posts but they are mainly concerned with technical aspects. My question is commercial, the huge price difference doesn't make sense.  

Spoken like a true Yorkshireman, ask a money question on a technical website. FFS

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lbayorkie
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October 29, 2020 - 8:37 am
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It seems pointless to spend over £40 when there's something a quarter of the price that should do the job.

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Stoo63
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October 29, 2020 - 9:21 am
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Quite

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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mike p5xbx
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October 29, 2020 - 5:30 pm
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lbayorkie said
Back to lighting.  I have been looking at voltage regulator/rectifiers.
that do the same job are available for less than  £10.00. Am I missing something?  

Be interested to know what 6 VOLT regulator/rectifier you Think you can get for £10.00

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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lbayorkie
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October 29, 2020 - 5:42 pm
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There are quite a few on ebay.

** Please log in to view **

Im not saying its suitable but it looks like it will do the job. 

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lbayorkie
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October 30, 2020 - 9:18 am
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At a tenth of the price of some regulator/rectifiers it seems too good to be true, but there are a number of these cheap ones around which suggests the going price is perhaps closer to ten pounds than the forty plus that some are charging.

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Stoo63
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October 30, 2020 - 9:35 am
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Or it suggests that some are just cheap junk made in china........

Yet again we are revisiting a topic discussed ad nauseam on the Forum whistlewhistle

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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lbayorkie
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October 30, 2020 - 10:03 am
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Aren't most things made in China, including the more expensive ones? Being made in China is no indication of quality. This one may well work as well as one at ten times the price, if it doesn't you just get a refund. 

Lots of technical discussion on this topic but little thats conclusive about merits of cheaper vs more expensive ones.

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