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More Ibayorkies D1
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lbayorkie
North Yorkshire
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June 15, 2020 - 9:46 pm
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I have stripped down my spare wheel which is heavily rusted ready for sand blasting. I'm just wondering what the best way is to mask the threads inside the hub and I also have some concerns about the 'Dunlop' wording on the rim disappearing in the blasting process. I just wondered what other members experience has been. Thanks.

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June 15, 2020 - 11:52 pm
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Plastic or tin plug, tight fitting, inner or outer and gaffer tape up. I don`t like my brake drum being blasted, so tape that as well. Tape the logo or Araldite bit of baked bean tin over it, then clean that area by hand before painting...or if same company is doing the painting, just tell them to go easy on it, tape it so they do that area last. Usually end up with sand in the rim beading both sides, but a good blast with the airline through the drain holes sorts it. If you take it to a bike place, they should do a proper job.

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lbayorkie
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June 16, 2020 - 7:33 am
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Thanks. I get the idea of using a plug. Holding it in place without covering areas that do need to be blasted is the trick. The firm doing the blasting blast anything I think. When I was there they were doing alloy car wheels.

He says he will need to powder coat them immediately but  needs the RAL which is the main thing holding me back. There seem to be two 'authorities' on paint: Mikep5xbx who says Ludlow Green/RAL6018 is best and Hans Kreuzen who has used VW Pastell Gruen/L11. Hard to know which way to go.

If I cant decide I might ask them to powder coat with primer, if that's doable.

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BASIL
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June 16, 2020 - 9:06 am
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Hi, I have had a lot of powder coating done and the usually spray a wet primer on before the do the powder coating, I have had a lot of wheels powder coated and they are still good after 15 years. Regards Basil.

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mike p5xbx
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June 16, 2020 - 5:40 pm
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you would do better to give the powder coaters a part from your bike to try and match it, tool box lid for instance
even if you bike has original paint it will have faded and changed colour
not an easy job with power as it looks quite different in power form to what comes out of the oven
and no RAL colour is even close to original shade of green in powder or
cellulose

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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lbayorkie
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June 16, 2020 - 6:22 pm
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I dont think he offers a colour matching service  He seems to need the RAL. Also I cant tell which is original paint on my bike. Most has been aerosol sprayed in rustoleum sage green.

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GlenAnderson
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June 16, 2020 - 7:05 pm
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Reseda green is a close match for the original colour. RAL 6011

How close it is to the bits you’ve already had done is another thing entirely. 

Two tapered wooden plugs, secured with a long bit of studding and a couple of nuts, will block the centre off nicely. 

Any good blaster will be using a media suitable for the job. I’d not be worried about losing the Dunlop letters. As stated, ask them to go easy in that area. Definitely make sure they don’t coat the braking surface, or the inside of the hole the brake pivot fits through, as cleaning the excess off afterwards would be a horrible job.  

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lbayorkie
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June 18, 2020 - 10:08 am
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I think that the L11 used by Hans is equivalent to RAL6019. So I now have three front runners RAL6011 (reseda green), RAL6019 (pastel green) and RAL6018 (ludlow Geeen), none of which I have actually seen 'in the flesh'

My bike has been sprayed with Rustoleum Sage Green (another colour recommended on the forum) which is seemingly RAL6021.

Not sure how RAL colours 'work' but presumably, in theory the closest color to RAL6021 must be RAL6019, whereas RAL6011 seems to be quite a way off if the numbering is anything to go by.

Make sense?

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lbayorkie
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June 19, 2020 - 8:02 pm
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All masked off ready for the blasters/powder coaters.

However I forgot that this wheel has two valve holes- it had one of those funny things installed to stop the tyre peeling off the rim when under inflated for trialling. 

I was thinking of fashioning a small alloy or steel plate and epoxying it into place in tbe extra hoke then filling the hole with filler before sending to the blasters/powder coaters.

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Stoo63
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June 19, 2020 - 8:11 pm
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I'm really surprised Alan that you're going down the powder coating road, considering your thirst for originality and authenticity previously. Was discussing this very subject the other day with an Enfield owner and we both agreed that powder coating just looks really "off" on anything pre-'80. So I wouldn't be worrying too much about RAL this or that. When you were so particular about the bras nipple and it's thread on the speedo, it seems most strange to be making this choice. BUT, the important thing is that is your  choice and your  bike, so , as long as you're happy with the results. Just glad that it's running now. Time to start looking for another one !!

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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lbayorkie
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June 19, 2020 - 9:56 pm
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Other members suggested powder coating was the best option. This is never going to be an 'oily rag' as the previous owner had sprayed everything in rustoleum sage green. I am open  minded on the subject of powder coating if as you say it looks different to cellulose paint. The issue is the blaster seems set up for powder.

I spoke to a cellulose paint supplier in Bradford and he suggested I get the wheel powder coated is the nearest shade of green and then respray it when I eventually get the rest of the bike resprayed (in cellulose)

The wheel has been  badly hand painted several times and is a bit of a rusty mess so blasting seems the only way to get it into a decent state to accept any type of paint.

To put this into context my bike already has a rear wheel but it's from a plunger so has modifications that are unproven. This is why I want to fit the wheel in question asap. 

Is it the powder coating itself that gives the 'non period' finish or is it the surface left by the blasting?

Alan

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Stoo63
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June 19, 2020 - 10:50 pm
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I've got a Tiger Cub frame that a previous owner powder coated. I hate it. I'm sorely tempted to strip it and hand paint it but that's just creating more work as the powder coating is extremely censored to get off and once the coating is breached looks worse than old-fashioned paint. Not having money to throw around, powder coating seems the most expensive option as well which may be why I don't consider it and why  the blaster does it.... The blasting itself will only provide a nice smooth(ish) surface for applying the final coat whatever that may be. Cellulose paint will probably be expensive too.  The eventual finish on powder coating just looks "false" to me. Looks like plastic. Too smooth. Anachronistic. Bogus. Looks like a mobile phone in a 40's movie. It's a bit like electronic ignition; some people can't see past it's modernity and "simplicity," while others wouldn't give it house room and would never ever fit it and see it as an overpriced unnecessary modern fad. Ultimately, it's up to you, Alan. I was just shocked that after the pains that you'd gone to trying to keep the bike as "authentic" (whatever that means) you were choosing to use an overtly non-authentic finish. Again it's your choice. Sorry if I've only added to your confusion after all your travailswow

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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lbayorkie
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June 19, 2020 - 11:26 pm
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The quote to blast and powder coat the wheel and a mudguard was £40 which I thought was reasonable. No problem if I can re spray it with cellulose later. I believe theres not much skill to powder coating so that may be why it's getting more common. I will still ask him though if he can blast and then prime and finish in celluse for same price. 

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mike p5xbx
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June 20, 2020 - 12:16 am
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Some "professional" bike restorers that do really horrible pitted and rusty barn finds have all the tinware blasted and power coated then its rubbed down and flatted off
then finish painted in cellulose the end result is really impressive

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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lbayorkie
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June 20, 2020 - 7:43 am
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I think that's the category my rear wheel fits into. I think it would have to be flatted off before spraying with cellulose paint anyway to ensure adhesion. Seems like a good plan.

Just need to work out best way to block off the hole in the rim to stop the tube ballooning out. A piece of tin can epoxied in place should do the trick and avoid having to weld. 

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Stoo63
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June 20, 2020 - 7:54 am
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That's pretty reasonable. As you say, Alan, it's becoming much more common. I think you can even diy it if you can cook the parts. And on modern bikes it looks really smart and tidy and fits in with all the plastic and fibreglass. Just not for me. The only bike I have that i'd put it on is the '97 Honda scooterette thing I got which is basically a hairdryer wrapped in plastic fairings. My '76 FS1-E would never have powder-coating anywhere near it. Spray is a much "better" look for that era. In fact on the fizzy forum, there was quite a bit of debate about powder coating and it got a general thumbs-down. I suppose it comes back to the old debate of "authenticity"; "originality" " concours" etc etc. The bike is yours and you are the one who has to look at it every day. You've gone above and beyond so far to get things "right" for you and your vision of what the bike "should" be. I know that I look at wee things on some of my bikes, like a pattern dip switch that's too "modern" and tacky and shiny and grates every time I look at it but it's practical and eventually one will appear that makes me happy that's old and grubby and doesn't work properly and cost me 4 times the price of a shiny new one. Hey, that's the daft things we do and beauty is, as we  keep saying, in the eye of the beholder. The main thing is that you're up and running and that back wheel is in a straight frame and transferring all that beefy horsepower to the tarmac 🙂 Get that CBT done asap and get out and enjoy that beast - you deserve it after all your trials and tribulations. thumbs-up

One of ** Please log in to view ** will sort out your extra hole. I've got one on a 5Ta rear wheel with Dunlop rim that I did this week that's never been offroad in it's life and it looks like it's been on there since about 1961, so definitely "period" and "authentic."  

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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sunny
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June 20, 2020 - 8:52 am
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i  will  mack  you   all  think  a  bit    my  Dad  was a french  polisher      and  in  short  he explaned  a licqid coting   put  on  wood or metal  started  way  befor  our  lord   was  born     so thats  over  2000 years  id  think     ,.,the thin  is  the  longer  you can get  a coating  to dry  the deeper  it gets in   & fils  up  the  pors/holes   wot  ever  its on the  moor  it  will  potected     longer  ,.,.   teleygraf  poles  &  railway  sleppers   are  soked  in  the  loverly  black  stuf      have  you  ever  seen   one   go  rotton

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cocorico
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June 20, 2020 - 9:11 am
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Not sure  you're taking this seriously, Keith. wink thumbs-up

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Blue Heeler
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June 20, 2020 - 11:36 am
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lbayorkie said
Just need to work out best way to block off the hole in the rim to stop the tube ballooning out. A piece of tin can epoxied in place should do the trick and avoid having to weld.   

JB Weld plastic metal Alan....before the blasting & painting, obviously. You`ll be fitting a decent rim tape anyway I suppose?

Sunny, as I go back out to finish mowing the grass, every time I pass the old telegraph pole top section I put in as a washing line post, I will have visions of your bikes all lathered in creosote 🙂

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lbayorkie
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June 20, 2020 - 2:12 pm
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Stoo do you mean install a rim lock? I still have the one that came with the wheel but wasnt planning on putting it back after the comments I got from the tyre shop when they tried to remove the old tyre.

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