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Neil's D7 Resto
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NeilB
Kidderminster
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December 10, 2019 - 9:58 pm
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I'll add some pics once I move them from phone to computer and resize them, and add more as I go through the restoration as I intend to keep a photo diary as I have done with previously restored bikes.

I'm not 100% certain on the validity of it, but the original (?)  speedo says a little over 4000 miles, and certainly the engine visually (and compression wise) as well as other bits would have me believe this could well be accurate. The brake shoes look almost new, for instance.

I will do some more research with the frame number (engine number puts it as mid-1964, and reg is mid-1965), but it also has some parts that look odd / different to expected such as having four small stays on the front mudguard, rather than two V-shaped stays, and there's a centre hole in the headlight cowl as if for a warning light, but it had a roofing bolt in it. 

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NeilB
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December 10, 2019 - 10:18 pm
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Few pics to start with... rsz_img-20191207-wa0005.jpgIMG-20191207-WA0009_resize_72.jpgIMG-20191209-WA0002_resize_28.jpg

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NeilB
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December 13, 2019 - 11:25 am
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17.jpeg21.jpeg20.jpeg13.jpeg16.jpeg15.jpeg18.jpeg19.jpeg14.jpeg

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NeilB
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December 13, 2019 - 11:30 am
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Pics are all out of order, but I can't seem to edit my posts yet unfortunately.

Neil

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cocorico
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December 13, 2019 - 12:40 pm
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I find it best to start your description, then when you add a photo, make sure the cursor is in the right place before uploading the pic. Add more text as required, then reposition cursor before the next pic. When finished, use the preview button to check before you post, it gives you a chance to move anything in the wrong place. Just takes practice.

hope-that-helps

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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NeilB
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December 13, 2019 - 3:45 pm
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Thanks, unfortunately I was doing it from my phone and I posted it before I meant to. You get the idea hopefully though I think, I've had it running (needs new rings and big end bearing) so that's the electrics fixed, and now it's all completely stripped and in boxes ready for shot blasting.

Trying to sort the head bearings, it has the dreaded two different sized cones which aren't in stock anyway so trying to see if i can get new ones made.

Neil

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NeilB
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December 31, 2019 - 1:38 pm
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Hi, 

So seeing as how I'm already repairing several extra holes in each mudguard, does anyone have any pics of the holes that should be in the rear mudguard please? Ideally from far enough away so I can figure out where they're located, but close enough so they're not just dots...i have looked on pics, but they're never from a good angle.

Thanks in advance 🙂 

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chickensoup
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January 1, 2020 - 10:06 pm
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Sorry Niel I keep on pressing the post button by accident.

I also own a D7 so which holes are you missing, mudguard to frame, rear light bracket, or all. I will try and help.

Nick

1950 BSA D1 Plunger   242 UYW

1966 BSA D7  LBF 62 D

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NeilB
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January 3, 2020 - 4:58 pm
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Apologies, it's a D7 (forgot to post that!) and i think it has extra holes that I want to patch up. Just collected everything from blasting so making a start tomorrow on repairs and primer

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NeilB
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January 5, 2020 - 10:42 am
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Got all my parts back from blasting, and started painting. I've already finished painting and polishing the following in gloss black (and lacquered):

Fork legs, brake plates, spokes, main stand, foot pegs, rear brake bar, rear shocks.

DSC_01562.JPG

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NeilB
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January 13, 2020 - 12:38 pm
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So, I made the mistake of taking several pics from the left of the bike at different stages of disassembly, but none from the right on the assumption that between symmetry, and Draganfly parts, I'd figure it all out...

Well, apparently I have a small bracket on one pillion peg and I think it's for the exhaust silencer bracket to attach to, but if someone could confirm either way then that would be great! Black paint is done except the nacelle which I'm going to chase today, lacquer is mostly done on the black, just need to order decals and colour and then I can start getting things finished and built 🙂

Forgot the pic!!

20200113_130240.JPG

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sunny
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January 13, 2020 - 1:09 pm
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if the  smalll  bracket  is  on  the  OFFside  its  sylener    if  it on the  nearsdie   its  the  stop lamp switch  bracket  you didnt  say   

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Blue Heeler
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January 13, 2020 - 1:10 pm
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** Please log in to view **

You`re not hanging about...great work!

Blue, fellow D7 owner

P.S. Common problem with D7/10/14/B175, is kickstart scraping silencer. Almost all I`ve bought, arrived with that issue to resolve.

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NeilB
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January 13, 2020 - 1:22 pm
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sunny said
if the  smalll  bracket  is  on  the  OFFside  its  sylener    if  it on the  nearsdie   its  the  stop lamp switch  bracket  you didnt  say     

I can't remember which is for which side ha! However, brake switch bracket is probably right thinking about it as the silencer bracket is still on the silencer (I wasn't sure if there were two?).

The kick start does indeed just catch the exhaust, I was considering changing to a fixed kickstart rather than the folding one that's on it at the moment. I'll have to see how it fits once it goes back together without the extra washers that were on it. 

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sunny
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January 13, 2020 - 3:56 pm
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the  braket   for  the  sylener   fit  behind   the   f/rest  braket    this  gives  you  1/2 "  gap for  the  kic/lever

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NeilB
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January 13, 2020 - 6:23 pm
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sunny said
the  braket   for  the  sylener   fit  behind   the   f/rest  braket    this  gives  you  1/2 "  gap for  the  kic/lever  

thumbs-up

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NeilB
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January 16, 2020 - 5:29 pm
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So the place who said they could true my wheels (because frankly I was being lazy) decided that they couldn't, but wouldn't bother to tell me until I called today to check on them. So, my wife picked them up on the way home from work as she was passing, and I've done them myself.

Front wheel behaved very well indeed, rear took a bit more care to get and keep it true, but the front has definitely been rebuilt in the past so that's not too surprising. New rim tape, tubes, and tyres fitted too, the front was almost perfectly balanced and the rear was only 30g out so have skipped the weights as my stick on weights won't actually fit the narrow rims!

If they become an issue, I'll get some clip on spoke weights, but I don't like them as a rule. Tyres I've gone for Michelin City Pro at around £35 each because I'd rather have tyres that grip than ones that look 50 years old...I'm sure if they were still making BSA's then these would be the tyre of choice!

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