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My 66 D7
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Andym
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November 11, 2020 - 11:02 pm
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Thought i would let you know that my box of bits is slowly being rebuilt.

I now have the engine complete and it is sucking and blowing when i spin the flywheel round, so i'm taking that as a good sign. This week i stripped, cleaned and rebuilt the carb using the major stay up kit from ** Please log in to view **. That all went well, my only question if anybody is reading this is where do i set the needle and clip to, i know i have read it somewhere but can't find it now. I suppose it will give me something to whistle away my nightshifts on again!!

I have also cleared out my small shed and all the pushbikes are now out in the garden under the tarp, clearing space for the bantam frame.  I have started cleaning it up and getting all the old grease and dirt from what i presume has been on there since the mid 70's.  All in the frame is looking good, but i suspect the bike was previously stripped completely and then reassembled loosely. Every nut, bolt and pin has pushed out and cleaned up nicely, even the rear swing arm was a couple of taps and it was out. Again, just an old oily residue covering everything, so a good clean and grease up then rebuilt. 

Todays 5 minute job was to look at the generator flywheel and realising that i now cannot remove it. I was hoping to take it off so i could check i have fitted the right one. I have 3 of them in total and i just fitted the best looking one, but now after reading a post about reconditioned flywheels and there possibly being a couple of variations i think i may have made a mistake.  Does anyone know the differences?? or how to test them?

After this i moved the frame a little and realised the headstock had a rough feel to it, when i bought the bike i was told the forks and head had all been rebuilt. The forks look OK, but the headstock bearings were rough and notchy. After i stripped and cleaned everything, rebuilt with fresh grease, its a lot smoother and better. Another couple of hours. Now though, i should be ready to fit the wheels back on and get the engine in the frame. Just have to wait for the delivery of the rear wheel speedo spacer that i'm missing. Hopefully it will be later in the week and it can be back on its wheels for the first time since i have owned it. 

I'll try to get some photo's uploaded later on! 

Hopefully this thread will be of interest to people!

 

Thanks for reading

Andy 

  

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Stoo63
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November 11, 2020 - 11:50 pm
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Great stuff, Andy. Glad you're making good progress. You'll need a flywheel puller. There's usually plenty on ebay or perhaps someone nearby to you can lend a hand(social distancing and all that 🙂  ) What's your plans for painting etc? Be great o see some pics. Remember it's a 1mb image size limit which can be a pain 🙁

All the best and keep up the good work,

Stewart

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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Andym
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November 12, 2020 - 1:17 am
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Hi

 

The paintwork is quite good, it was lacquered by the previous owner and looks original, so i am planning to keep it as it is. I like the look of it, although it is a little shiny.

The frame is good condition and mainly black with no obvious rust areas.  I was thinking of giving it a little brush over in the hidden areas to give some protection, but mainly to leave it alone. If i went down the full restore route then it would add a huge cost and extra work, whereas the original patina and overall condition is good and in keeping with it.

Hopefully you can see a couple of photos from when i bought it. 

As for the flywheel, i'll keep an eye out for a puller or at least try to work out if i need to remove it before hand. I do have a bit more to do before i can get around to starting it anyway!

 

Thanks

 

Andybike1.jpgScreenshot_20200914-184419_eBay.jpgScreenshot_20200914-184422_eBay.jpg

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cocorico
Central France
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November 12, 2020 - 7:47 am
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Good progress. As for the flywheel - it is good sense to buy a puller as you will need it sometime. I doubt you have the 'wrong' flywheel, but if you look in the Members Area there is a BSA Service Sheet covering the ignition as well as more information on the Wipac / WicoPacy systems.

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sunny
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November 12, 2020 - 10:28 am
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hi  Andy     a   note   book      or   back  of  the  shed  door  &  felt  tip     first  tip  mack   notes    the  needle    s/heet   510    says   4 th  from 

top     for  D 5& 7   thats  a  monobloc   carb        the  books  &  commom     to  alll    say    2nd       so  i  go  for  3rd  from  top  first  off    you  will have  truble   seting  up  if  you   have  not  cleaned  the  2  bypass   holes       out   

 the   magnet  rotor     MUST   be  in    very  good   condtion          no   dings  donges   or scrars    &   run  trouw  , loos   on  its   boss    if your spares  have  been  stored  badly    thay  may   have  lost  some  magnet  power       your   D  7   looks  a  nice  project       if its a 2 switch   use    ign to swich off  if its  a single  sw   set the  carb  to  shut  off     

please  read  my  post    [ Ducon  switch  ]

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Andym
Portsmouth
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December 29, 2020 - 3:42 pm
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Hi again, happy new year to all.

 

I have managed to get out and do a bit more to the bantam, only a bit though.

 

The flywheel is still on and a puller is on order.

I bought a replacement exhaust silencer off ebay and that appears to be good after a clean up, the only trouble i can see is that the front pipe i have now appears to be off. There is a braket on the exhaust and a few kick start dents that when i line them up the front pipe seems to be too low and too far back. So i'm now on a lookout for a shorter high front pipe.  Does anyone have any photos or tips on how to remove the baffles to clean them out, i have managed to get a lot of crud out of it, but the baffles seem to be tight and i dont want to break them trying to remove them.

I'm still planning on ordering a new wiring loom and switches so i can get round to getting the electrics sorted out.

New clutch, brake and thottle cables have arrived and been fitted, however i dont seem to have any kind of return spring for the throttle cable, is this right??  I have not fitted the handle bars yet so dont have the throuttle grip to hand, but from memory there is no return spring there either.  Any hints on what i'm missing or not seeing???  I'm assuming there should be some kind of sping in the carb that i'm missing.

 

I am trying to keep an eye on the forum and keep in touch and learn a thing or two.

 

Thanks again and hopefully this little old bike will be on the road for the warmer weather!!

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Alan.Moore
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December 29, 2020 - 4:39 pm
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Andy

Re the throttle return spring have a look at this site....** Please log in to view **  part number 9 (assuming it is a 375 you have) . They also list the 376 etc 

Cheers

Alan

1939 Ariel VH, 1942 Ariel WNG, 1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird, 1970 BSA Bantam B175, 1980 Honda CB250N, 1986 Yamaha SRX600

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sunny
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December 29, 2020 - 4:53 pm
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hi Andy     the  D 3 & 5   silencer     and  the  D 7   silencer     has  dents   has  to have    DENTS    in   diferant     places      to  cross mach  them  

from   D 7 onward    the braket     changed    coz  from D 10  onward  the  silencer  is  about   1 1/4 "   shorter       so  thats  needing  some  homework   on  that   the  silencer  braket   fits  BEHIND     the  footrest  plate   if  it  first   be  get  some  ider   for the  lenth  of  the  excrst  pipe  befor cuting 

if   you  have   the  Haynes   manual    page  45  shows  the  carb spring     this  also  returns  the   throtal   twistgrip     

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Andym
Portsmouth
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December 29, 2020 - 6:02 pm
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Thanks Alan and Sunny, just had a rummage through the parts box and have found the return spring. Seems obvious now!!

 

The exhaust is as per the photos.  I have lined up the bracket to the frame and the dents to the kick start and it seems to line up. The bracket on both exhausts is as per pic1, when this lines up with the frame the front of it fits like pic 2 and pic3.  When i connect the pipes together the exhaust sits like pic 4 which doesnt look too bad, but i'm not sure is right.

 

i hope that makes sense!  I will get the bits of old exhaust out of the loft tomorrow and line that up to see if that is any better, but from memory it is the same.

Thanks again

 

 

Andy

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Andym
Portsmouth
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December 29, 2020 - 6:08 pm
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sorry, heres the pictures3.jpg4.jpg1.jpg2.jpg

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Unitminor
Norfolk
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December 29, 2020 - 7:08 pm
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Looking at the front pipe it looks wrong to me my 1965 d7 has a short front pipe to fit the longer type of silencer . And it is the wrong shape for a standard d7 .But I'm sure some one will be on soon and tell you more . 

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cocorico
Central France
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December 29, 2020 - 8:35 pm
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Looks to be a high rise pipe, which I don't think is standard.

** Please log in to view ** an image from Google which might help.

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Alan.Moore
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December 30, 2020 - 12:37 am
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Andy

As has been said that front pipe is for a high level silencer fitted to the sports models ** Please log in to view ** .

You appear to have a standard low level silencer like the one shown in the google link .

There is a triangular shaped bracket that fits to the slotted bracket on the silencer and this bracket is attached to the pillion footrest bolt. see here ** Please log in to view **

There is a low level exhaust pipe listed as a D7 downpipe pipe on Ebay at the moment ** Please log in to view ** ...  it is a bit rough but may well tie in with the general patinated look you appear to be going after (and could be sprayed with some black high temp paint)

Hope this helps

Cheers

Alan

1939 Ariel VH, 1942 Ariel WNG, 1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird, 1970 BSA Bantam B175, 1980 Honda CB250N, 1986 Yamaha SRX600

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Andym
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January 9, 2021 - 10:24 pm
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Hi Alan

Yes i had seen that pipe and it turned up a couple of days ago, I've also treated myself to a new wiring loom and switches, which have all arrived. Unfortunately, I'm back at work now and with the kids home schooling I've not gotten around to getting out in the shed to start piecing it together, but as you can tell i am getting some time at work to get searching for more parts and info.

Now i just need to find a battery, long reach spark plug and some fuel hose, then i think i am almost at the stage that i can see if it is going to start.

Before that though, i need to read up about how to set up the carb and points.

 

Things are going well though and hopefully i will be taking out for a test ride when the weather warms up!

 

Thanks to all again for your help and advice, it is all being read and greatly recieved!!!

 

Andy

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Andym
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March 3, 2021 - 7:48 pm
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So, Its been a while since i have had a chance to post on here, and when i did have a chance to i had nothing interesting to say.  The Bantam rebuild was on hold due to the cold weather, work, kids and general family stuff and not having the time to get out and sort it out. I have been hovering around in the background.

However, things have moved forward in the last couple of days and i have managed to clean out the fuel tank, fit the new wiring loom, refit the freshly magnetised flywheel, set up the points, coils and wiring, and connect up the fuel pipes.

Then yesterday it spluttered into life and was running for the first time in at least 40 years!! Even the wife was impressed!  It was a little lumpy, but i put that down to the timing/carb settings etc...  but it was running and idling all on its own.  There was some blowing from the exhaust and it didn't want to rev up much, but as its still all new i didn't want to push it any more.

So today i got it back out and tightened up the exhaust clamp on the cylinder head, that stopped the leaks but then when revving it a little i could hear compressed air leaking and i was getting more smoke out of the front exhaust joint and only a little whisper from the rear of it.  So the baffles must be blocked in the rear pipe, when i took the rear pipe off and started it up it sounded great and revved nicely, although my neighbours didn't agree!! but it sounded a lot smoother and more responsive.

So my next question is how to clean out the exhaust. I have removed the end cone and the threaded rod is firmly stuck to the baffles. I have read that caustic soda is the way to go. I did get a lot of dirt out of it when i first got it, and could blow it through with an air line so its not completely blocked, but blocked enough not to allow the exhaust gasses to flow out.  Does anyone have any tips on how to remove the baffles? or are they easy to replace?

I don't really want to fit a new one on there as it will not look right with the bike. However, if anyone has a usable old one around that they don't need then i would be interested!

 

Thanks again and another Bantam will be on the road this year!

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Number6
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March 3, 2021 - 10:35 pm
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Unfortunately the baffles can get seized up if not cleaned regularly, normally you should be able to remove the end cone and just tug the baffles out with pliers or similar. Caustic soda is possible but be aware it also attacks chrome, also don't get it anywhere near anything alloy, e.g. the end cone!

Some say oven cleaner is supposed to work, I've got some but haven't tried it yet.

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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mike p5xbx
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March 3, 2021 - 11:56 pm
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aftermarket silencers dont have removable baffles if you have a threaded rod with a tube over it then they can be removed if you only have just a single threaded rod the baffles are welded in

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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Andym
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March 4, 2021 - 9:00 pm
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Thanks guys, My bafflers are certainly stuck solid.  There doesn't seem to be a tube around the threaded bar, it looks pretty stuck solid.  Maybe they are aftermarket, but I've no idea how to tell other than what Mike has just said.  My old exhaust has separate baffles but whoever removed them destroyed the inside of the silencer removing them, Something i am not trying to repeat.

I did a lot of googling last night whilst busy at work!!  I read that a good start is to warm it up and soak it in a 50/50 mix of brake fluid and white spirit.  I had an old litre of brake fluid that is probably past its best, so set the heat gun on the exhaust for 10 minutes so it was hot to touch, then bunged up the small end and filled it up with the mix. Its sat in the shed now soaking and will be for the next couple of days, then i'll get a strong mix of caustic soda to soak it a bit longer and hopefully that'll do the trick.

I have a couple of ideas to try next, first was to stick a small air line in the bottom of it and soak it again with a blast of compressed air now and again to agitate it all inside. The second was to leave a steamer sealed in one end and blast it through with steam for a few hours, then maybe a jet wash to blast it loose.

Either way i'm sure i'll get this cleared out and back on the bike over the next week or so, i'm more keen now to get it rideable and get some miles on it.

 

Thanks again, and i appreciate the suggestions 

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Number6
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March 4, 2021 - 10:10 pm
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OK, so the non-removable aftermarket ones, take off the end cap, stand it on its nose and fill with caustic soda and let soak? idunno

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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Number6
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March 12, 2021 - 3:20 pm
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mike p5xbx said
aftermarket silencers dont have removable baffles if you have a threaded rod with a tube over it then they can be removed if you only have just a single threaded rod the baffles are welded in  

Keep forgetting to post this – I had a go taking mine apart (first time), yes it's a non-removable one! The end cone comes off but that's all. Mainly cos it's  an alloy bit that can't be welded obviously but also means can be removed if you want to pour stuff into the main part and not get it damaged (e.g. caustic soda). The last baffle plate is welded inside the outer tube in four places and the stud comes out from there, but suggests it goes deeper in. I made a cross-section sketch of what I think is inside, will try to post it shortly.

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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