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Mrs D's D1
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baker man
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November 15, 2012 - 12:46 am
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bit of a minefield when it comes to toolboxes on D1  bantams..some were on the nearside of the bike ..and some were on the offside .... the one you have will fit and look ok ... your not looking for a show bike after all!!

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David Dale
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November 15, 2012 - 12:49 am
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Hello Bakerman, ah well, not so bad then, and I thought that the whole 3 and 4 speed D10, D14, B175 saga was bad enough! dd.

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baker man
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November 15, 2012 - 1:04 am
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David.. you have seen my D1 ridged..and i think you will agree it looks the dogs danglys... its actually a mix of ridged and plunger parts  with a D3 battery and wireing loom fitted.. its sutch a mix that its on a 'q' plate...does it really matter? the bike is amazing!!

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The Artful Bodger
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November 15, 2012 - 1:49 am
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Not sure you've got that right Howard, I have 2 D1's and both have batteries and that type of tool box. One, the '53 which originally was Lucas has the box mounted on the right hand side (single screw) and the other my '61 GPO is mounted on the left also single screw. I know both of these bikes were original when I got them.

Colin

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Bournemouth Bantams
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November 15, 2012 - 8:43 am
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The Artful Bodger said
Not sure you've got that right Howard, I have 2 D1's and both have batteries and that type of tool box. One, the '53 which originally was Lucas has the box mounted on the right hand side (single screw) and the other my '61 GPO is mounted on the left also single screw. I know both of these bikes were original when I got them.

Colin

hi Colin

The difference is the non battery tool box is mounted about the centre line of the bike, the battery tool box is of set to one side so it looks balenced when the battery is fitted, the mountings are the give away one is mounted centrally on the box the other is mounted on the back of the box.

"H"

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The Artful Bodger
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November 15, 2012 - 10:38 am
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I stand corrected Howard. 

Colin

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Piquet
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November 15, 2012 - 12:11 pm
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Shouldn't this thread be titled,

Mrs Dale's Diary

?

I'm not a complete idiot ............................................ some parts are missing.

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Blue Heeler
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November 15, 2012 - 7:00 pm
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Howard said
You will offend the rivet counters withthe nacelle, it is of the later bikes the early bikes had a different style that mounted on the the lower clamp bolts.

"H"  

...like the one David`s already painted up in primer in his pics?whistle  

 

If you`ve missed what that bracket was actually for David,you wont be the firstsmile.Get one of the pointy-backed headlamp shells to go with that simple bracket and she`ll look a treat! If you want a pic posting of one then let me know.

 

You`re about right with the later D1 and D3 nacelle measurements Howard, just noticed that the D1`s is longer too.

 

Blue

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David Dale
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November 16, 2012 - 1:20 am
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Piquet said
Shouldn't this thread be titled,

Mrs Dale's Diary

?

 

Thank you, Piquet, showing your age a bit there?! dd.

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David Dale
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November 18, 2012 - 3:03 pm
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For once I've decided to keep an eye on the parts and prices on this rebuild. Bought so far:

gaitors

3 cables

handlebar bracket

spare rear hub

4 fork bushes

exhaust silencer

fork seals

2 sets wheel bearings

a new seat

toolbox

shroud

fork springs

That little lot has cost me £284.11! well, at least that's her combined birthday and Christmas presents taken care of for this year! (No, not really) dd.

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David Dale
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November 20, 2012 - 11:15 pm
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Add a second hand silencer, probably the wrong one again! to all that, it sure does all add up, I just hope that wifey will be able to manage it.

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx346/daviddale/PB180045.jpg

dd.

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Blue Heeler
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November 20, 2012 - 11:36 pm
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That torpedo silencer will be nice and quite compared to the one of the original D1 "silencers".

 

Blue

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David Dale
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November 21, 2012 - 7:07 pm
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Hello Blue, yes, I hope so.

Had an hour to kill today so I took the baffles out of the new exhaust and decoked them. There are lots of different ways to decoke an exhaust, I remember reading old motorbike mags which seemed to be condoning using oxy-acteylene to start a fire in the silencer, especially on ones that don't take apart!

I spent an hour with an old sharp knife and wood chisel too, got quite a bit off until I realised that stove was almost out, as it was getting on for 5.45 I simply put the baffles on to the red hot embers and threw a bit of coarse sawdust on to it and then watched as the remaining carbon burned away.

I should have thought of that one earlier, could have saved myself a lot of dirty trouble.

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx346/daviddale/PB190048.jpg

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx346/daviddale/PB190050.jpg

dd. PS, one baffle, the end one is loose on the shaft, a quick dabble with the mig welder should sort that, which reminds me that I need to have a look at the D1 info above to check it's right and any washers etc keeping cap on end.

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David Dale
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November 28, 2012 - 6:41 pm
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Welding up bad damage to centre stand feet, only thin tubing, couldn't it have been bar?

Everything cleaned up and ready.

PB260060-1.jpg

First bolt in ready

PB260061.jpg

Mole grips help hold it all squarer,

PB260063.jpg

A bead or two laid in to strengthen things up..

PB260062.jpg

Both sides done

PB260064.jpg

Heads of bolts cut off with angle grinder or hacksaw and grinding disc used to tidy job up,

PB260065.jpgall it needs now is some paint, job nearly done. DD.

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David Dale
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November 30, 2012 - 11:21 pm
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Had a few more hours on the bike bits today. I was told by our mate Bernard that a local (Banbury) paint and tool seller, Auto Colour Match, have in stock some of the proper thick old paint stripper like we used to buy before the "nanny state" stepped in with 'elf 'un safey, I was quoted £22 plus vat for a gallon tin, smallest size by the way. I bought one being trade and tried it out yesterday. Brilliant job, was working on some of the thinner paint in minutes! Burns the ungloved hand too, so watch out.

Stripped 2 X D1 front hubs, 1 front steel mudguard, 1 chainguard, 1 bracket, 1 bottom yoke etc etc, today I decided to have a go at the front painted wheel rim that I stripped out those weeks ago. Found lots of info on it, such as "made in Dunlop England" "Only for machines up to 175cc" "WM 1 X 19".

Both Bernard and friend Wayne warned me not to remove the rivets holding the stays on to the front mudguard, I did not like the way that the paint stripper was trapped underneath the stay's bracket and not being able to clean green paint out of all the cracks and crevices around the rivet's areas. I got the angle grinder out and ground those rivets off but had to punch the rivets through as they were in so well. There was only red oxide paint on both the stay and mudguard underneath so I'm now glad that I'm doing it.

I was glad too, to be able to straighten out both the stays and the very ends of the mudguard. I had to put one stay in the vice to do it properly, there's nothing worse than something that's been painted bent I say!

I don't know how or why the very ends of the 'guard were knocked about as they were, but removing the stays allowed me to find a convenient bock of wood and round ended mallet and a small ball pein hammer and gently ease those areas of damage out. It has stretched the metal I know, because a couple of the 4 rivet holes are now slightly elongated, but I have any amount of new rivets both steel and brass, also aluminium, I could also use rivet headed screws and half nuts burred over to stop them moving if I wish. I just love these little "engineering" type jobs, they are a welcome change from mower and tree work and I am in the warm and dry for a change!

Sorry no pics, mislaid camera for once, I will try another day.

I managed with the new stuff to get about 99.9% of all that old paint off the parts, next job is a good sand blast, I no longer have a cabinet and cannot work outside, even if I could, the problems with applying paint in the cold and damp are still there.

All parts were treated to the aggressive coiled wire wheel on one of my bench grinders, that did a very good job too, making things look almost good enough to put paint straight on, but of course, stripper is still on there in crevices, I cannot use water to neutralise it  because everything will be brown with rust within hours, that's one reason I have the dehumidifier going all the time, it takes many pints of moisture out of the air every day.

More later folks, DD.

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jess steele
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December 2, 2012 - 8:33 am
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another good piece david.i agree with the stripping and painting.as i always try and do my painting in the summer (if possible and assuming we ever get a summer)but not always possible. on the paint stripping front though dd i,d always wash stripper off straight away as it says on the tin don,t let it dry out.what i do is wash with hot soapy water towel dry.panel wipe (degreaser)i use a hair dryer.warm the panel and with primer pot (aerosol or gun)in one hand and hair dryer in the other. warm the air stream between panel and pot as you spray this stops damp air being picked up and carried on to the panel which is why paint some times blooms.it take a bit of pactice but at least you can get some protection on the panel and then leave the painting until summer.

.

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David Dale
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December 2, 2012 - 2:39 pm
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Hello Jess, thanks for the encouraging reply, do you mean to  put primer over rust? And then sand blast or paint strip it all off again in the warmer weather? I haven't got facilities to blast the items dry at the moment and if I did warm it all up to etch prime, I'd still be covering quite a lot of surface rust up, no go. If I had the money, I'd just take them somewhere and get the lot done somewhere else, job done etc but that's not what my bantams are about, I try to do everything myself and have done since the late sixties.

Using hot water and hair dryer are both good ideas, appreciated, DD.

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jess steele
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December 2, 2012 - 3:12 pm
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i was referring to after stripping all paint off then going through the process of the washing and drying then priming.it was,nt as much  for just you david it was also for any one else reading this.as i,ve been a panel beater in the past for about 12 years so would not advocate spraying over rust.i my self would agree with you there on the subject of getting some else to do my painting.but then again i would,nt pay any body for a job i can do very well my self.

i would just like to say here and now that it seems its getting a bit political on here of late some people think they know every thing (not you david) and people with double standards i,ve decided to leave this forum to the other 98%of the good people i,d just like to say goodbye . seeing that my advice is not wanted.and i my self don,t need any advise on rebuilding engines frame work or paint work i see no point hanging aroundtip-my-hat

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David Dale
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December 3, 2012 - 7:59 pm
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Some pics of the green front mudguard after taking stays off (OOOER!) and stripping! Also er, some of plain wheel rim, chain guard, stays now they're off (sorry!) 2 front hubs, rivets that were ground off etc:

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx346/daviddale/PC010069.jpg

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx346/daviddale/PC010070.jpg

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx346/daviddale/PC010071.jpg

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx346/daviddale/PC010072.jpg

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx346/daviddale/PC010073.jpg

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx346/daviddale/PC010074.jpg

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David Dale
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December 3, 2012 - 8:05 pm
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Pics of all the D1 type 'guards I now have, including the one that I've just stripped of paint, the red one is a competition according to the chap who sold bike to me and does look like one too, the wide one on the end is an aluminium one and is just a spare part thrown in:

 

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx346/daviddale/PC010083-1.jpg

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx346/daviddale/PC010084-1.jpg

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