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Mrs D's D1
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David Dale
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September 15, 2012 - 7:22 pm
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A few pics here folks of bike as I bought it, actually got it in the car but had to clean car out and use Sherpa instead.

P9130121.jpg

P9130122.jpg

P9130123.jpeg

P9130124.jpg

P9130125.jpg

P9130126.jpeg

P9130128.jpg

P9130136.jpg

P9130138.jpg

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Sprung Chicken
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September 15, 2012 - 8:26 pm
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That should keep you busy for a while..

Dougie;Glasgow ;Scotland.
1955 D1, 1970 B175

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Anderzander
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September 15, 2012 - 8:31 pm
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Wonderful!

If you can reclaim that number too - that'd be a bonus !

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David Dale
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September 15, 2012 - 10:51 pm
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As soon as I'd got myself collected and vehicle emptied, other work finished, I had a spare hour to look at the bike and look at frame no's and take off any extraneous fittings etc that didn't need to be on there. Some UNF countersunk screws and nuts were inside a couple of tubular brackets somewhere in the seat area, which I don't have yet, a single nut and bolt was removed near rear engine mounts also. I got the half gallon tin of Wicks' paint and varnish stripper out, a good one inch brush and an old beat up component box to hold stripper, as I had nothing else. You really need gloves of some sort for this job too, I like the blue nitrile ones, but the stuff melts them after a while. I had previously wiped the whole frame over with cheap thinners to degrease it, stripper will not work against oil and grease properly, but does oil paint though, I don't know why. Some eye protection is definitely needed too, I got a splash on the back of my left hand that very soon started to burn. Water soon neutralises the stuff though.

A lot of people who go down this route for paint removal seem to buy the smallest sized container that they can! They try to use it like a painter does when stretching paint constantly spreading it out thinner and thinner. This will NOT work with stripper, it need to go until it is almost dripping off! At least a pint or more would be the minimum I would use, on even a tiny frame like this. you then need to leave the stuff to work, I find Wicks' just as good as the top brands. I use an old sharp knife to scrape it off, doing the thicker, straighter and longer parts first is easiest, leaving the difficult corners and crannies will come eventually, you can use a wire brush on them, but you must be extra careful here because stray bristles can flick the stuff on to your face and ears, a sudden burning sensation will have you running back to the water tap!

You need to lay the frame down and get yourself in a comfortable position to get the best results, you may need to repeat the application of stripper a few times especially if there are multi layers of old paint. I have tried out a strange looking stripping wheel, but it's a bit too aggressive for my liking, it is flexible and can be used very gently, but it still leaves cutting marks which will have to be removed eventually. On my wife's bike there is a long "scar" where the chain has dug in to the frame, I'm not sure whether to weld it up or fill it, neither seem to be an ideal way of dealing with it somehow? welding is too deep and filler may not last? I will have to do chain case, forks etc too, whilst I think about it. Wayne my friend is a muchbetter paint sprayer than me and has volunteered to do it for us, thanks Wayne! dd.

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David Dale
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September 15, 2012 - 10:55 pm
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http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx346/daviddale/P9130139.jpg

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx346/daviddale/P9130140.jpg

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx346/daviddale/P9130141.jpg

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baker man
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September 15, 2012 - 11:15 pm
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David.. that black rear mud gaurd with the number plate is from a swing arm D3 or D5....just to stop you scatching you head!....thumbs-up

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wreck collector
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September 15, 2012 - 11:35 pm
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evening bakerman,can you explain why davids new back mudguard is from a d3 or d5.i spent the day cleaning my rear guard for filling in holes on both sides of my mudguard for welding on monday,first thing i notice is the grab rails either side of davids mudguard.the holes i want to fill in would correspond with those grabrails.lucky i didnt fire up the mig plant.so looks like my mudguard is wrong for my d7.i thought someone had maybe put indicators on and drilled holes at some stage.

                                                                                                                                       andy.

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David Dale
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September 15, 2012 - 11:36 pm
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Oh no! I'm in a worse position than Bart now, his might be bent but at least he's got one! I do have the ally ones though, but are probably for the "competition" model (Munchkin) ! Thanks for the tip Bakerman, that has helped me some, maybe I could do a swap with someone, Jim was going to turn the bike in to a "competition" type or scrambler, green laner or whatever where the alloys would have been ok, I can't see my missus going to work on one of those, knobblies and all!!!! dd.

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baker man
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September 15, 2012 - 11:45 pm
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O.K ...those rails are rear frame extensions...not grab rails ..they fit tight on the mud gaurd.. no room for a pasengers fingers to grab hold...see if you can find a picture of a D3 orD5... all will become clear!....thumbs-up

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wreck collector
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September 15, 2012 - 11:53 pm
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just checked google images i see all d5 have them,i have never seen a d5 in the flesh lol.if they were removed (FRAME EXTENSIONS THAT IS) would a d5 mudguard be identical to a d7.reason for asking this,i fitted a new dunlop  3.00 x 18 tyre today and no matter what i do its rubbing of recess on mudguard for chainguard,have to move wheel back to stop it rubbing.

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baker man
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September 16, 2012 - 12:18 am
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i carnt see why the tyre rubs as the D5 also has 3.00 x 18...but no.. D5 and d3 mudgaurds are nothing like a D7..tho you may be able to fit one some how.. just to complecate things a little more.. d3 and d5 guards are not matching items....sorry!

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Anderzander
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September 16, 2012 - 12:38 am
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With it having come with that plunger frame isn't there a chance that it's been fitted to it before ? dunno

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baker man
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September 16, 2012 - 12:47 am
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Carnt see it really.. if it had those frame extensions woudnt be left on as they would be redundent!...

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David Dale
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September 16, 2012 - 1:18 am
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So I'm going to be stuck for a rear mudguard then, wants to be original really, and price is going to be very high, that is if I ever find one! Ah well, perhaps that's why Jim was not bothered, he was going to do a sort of special for perhaps off road I suppose where it wouldn't have mattered! dd.

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Anderzander
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September 16, 2012 - 1:24 am
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It's worth offering that one up ... laugh

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baker man
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September 16, 2012 - 1:33 am
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Haveing another look it may have been fitted as there are some long rods that dont be long...if it was fitted it would have looked well strange....dunno

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David Dale
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September 16, 2012 - 11:40 am
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If I ever get to the point of sorting the electrics I may go down the D7 route, twin switch, battery and DC coil, I know a lot of "purists" will say it will never be right, but so much is missing and wrong, I'm not sure it makes any difference, I want to get the bike done this Winter if I can, so that she can enjoy it next spring and Summer, by the way, the engine doesn't seem to have any numbers either! I may use a totally different headlamp and put the twin switches in there, I may even use a D7 speedo as original will be almost impossible to source too I could just get it registered and on the road and then change things back slowly as I find the needed items? dd.

The list of missing items seems to be growing! Seat, speedo, back mudguard, horn, luggage rack etc etc.

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Bournemouth Bantams
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September 16, 2012 - 11:55 am
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david dale said
If I ever get to the point of sorting the electrics I may go down the D7 route, twin switch, battery and DC coil, I know a lot of "purists" will say it will never be right, but so much is missing and wrong, I'm not sure it makes any difference, I want to get the bike done this Winter if I can, so that she can enjoy it next spring and Summer, by the way, the engine doesn't seem to have any numbers either! I may use a totally different headlamp and put the twin switches in there, I may even use a D7 speedo as original will be almost impossible to source too I could just get it registered and on the road and then change things back slowly as I find the needed items? dd.

Pinapple barrel engine so the engine numbers are probably stamped around the front engine mount, should be a YD1 engine.

If the frame is a match to the engine it is an early example pre 1954, the frame number would be on the front down tube alongside the front engine mount.

BP registrations were issued by West Sussex county council, reverse format BP as the displayed one is were issued from March 1958 so my guess is the plate originally belonged to a D5 swinging arm bike.

Hope this usless piece of info helps,  and good luck on the resto.

Howard  

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David Dale
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September 16, 2012 - 12:01 pm
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Thanks Howard, frame no. is YDS 33968 was advertised as a 1950 which it may be, I'm doing a book review just now and will look later, cheers, dd.

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September 16, 2012 - 12:05 pm
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Keep your chin up David laugh

Just start with what you've got, definitely don't worry about keeping it original, and we can all help keep an eye out for any critical missing bits. You could even use a push bike speedo and the like to get on the road. I think if you work with what you've got and a bit of ingenuity you'll end up with a nice little bike thumbs-up

I seem to remember that the earliest D1 engines don't have their number on the top of the cases, can't remember where it is though !? Have a look by the front mounting holes as it rings a bell.

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