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Kirkbybil's 1951 D1 Bantam De-Luxe
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Kirkbybil
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November 13, 2016 - 8:37 pm
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It's starting to look like a bike now: The gaiters seemed to have expanded so I could just slip them over the fork ends (They're not the 'tomahawk' ones so straight and thin). Then I put on the mudguard brackets and slid the gaiters back on so I got  a lucky break.

Forks fitted and I added the handlebars so I could hold the forks while I fitted the mudguard and wheel.

IMG_5115.JPG

I added the rear brake rod which I managed to make myself out of a section of 5/16th stainless steel and then I tried to put the front wheel on. I went with the same Mitac tyres as I put on the D5 everyone says they are the nearest profile to the originals but they were still too wide to go on and they fouled the two bolts that the mudguard stay centre holes go onto. Removing the nuts, a bit of grease and a bit of gentle  'persuasion' and it finally popped on. 

Once they're on, it's not a problem as the wheel is at its narrowest point  at the height of those bolts. 

IMG_5116-2.JPG

On went the left wheel nut then I spent over half an hour trying to get the right side one on but the diameter was too big to fit through the gap in the fork. I thought that maybe the new chrome on the fork had narrowed the gap or the nut was out of shape so I spent ages trying to fettle it but it just wouldn't go on. I decided to experiment and swap the nuts and the left one went straight on the right side so I looked in my 'box of endless possibilities' and found another nut that went straight on doh.

I can only think that I must have picked up a wheel nut from the D5 which must be a mm or so wider? 

I had intended to fit the mudguard, work out the size and location of the black area for the registration, mark it up then take the mudguard off again to spray it black. However, it is such a fiddly job and so difficult to do without scratching or scraping the paint, I decided to leave it on and I'll figure out how to paint it while it's on the bike.

Speedo and cable next I think.

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Kirkbybil
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December 21, 2016 - 11:32 am
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Still making slow progress. Been out of action for a few weeks after a minor op but now pottering again. Mainly putting things on, finding they don't fit, taking them off, adjusting and refitting several times.

The best advice I never took was don't buy a bike in bits. No photo's, no reference points and, even though it's a simple bike, if you haven't built one before it's frustrating at times. It's like doing a jigsaw with 20% of the parts missing but a random extra 20% from a different puzzle thrown in!  No Speedo cable so waiting for that and a few other bits from Rex.

In the meantime when I took the frame off my ramp I found that the stand, which I assumed would work well as someone had already welded some tubular steel around the legs to make it taller, didn't work at all. It left one leg a good half inch off the ground depending which side touched down first. 

higher. base.jpg

I scratched my head for a bit and decided that the easiest way to fix it would be to fit a couple of metal lugs to the stop plate so I made a couple from 3mm steel and then tapped a couple of holes in the stop plate to attach them:

Stand-stop.JPG

and here is the stop plate fitted and now working on the bike:

Stand-fixed.JPGI'll take it all off and paint it again to cover the scratches caused by excessive head scratching and to protect the steel extensions and then the engine can go in. Hopefully that only fits one way!

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Hans Kreuzen
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December 21, 2016 - 7:54 pm
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You may have to replace the spring washer on the right side bolt and replace it with a star washer to clear the engine casing, I had to on mine.

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, 1949 Aus. PMG replica D1 project and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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Kirkbybil
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January 1, 2017 - 10:51 pm
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I hate this bike sometimes!

I got the engine engine in no problem, or so I thought, until I tried to connect the chainguard which is when I found out it was too long. Seems I had the rigid chain guard not the plunger! 

chainguard-1.jpg

It looks like it might be bent to fit but I decided that it needed to be the correct one so I found a plunger one at classicbikeshop. No idea when the weather will be good enough for painting but at least it fitted! 

chainguardnew-1.jpg

So I offered up the battery box and that didn't fit either frown

batterystrap-1.jpg

It's too tall by about an inch. I bought this one on eBay and I remembered I had one half that came with the bike..batterystrap2-1.jpgThis one fits but it's only half the strap. I'm thinking I can maybe shorten the front of the longer one to fit so another unexpected job and more painting.

Then I offered up the toolbox and rectifier. The rectifier has four mounting holes, two top and two bottom as per the picture...

rectifier-1.jpg

However, there's no corresponding mounting holes anywhere so how is the rectifier attached between the toolbox and the battery carrier? I'm going to actually use a solid state one but I want to have the original in the correct place.

rectifier2-1.jpgand also, as you can see from the next picture, I have laid the parts out on the bench and the mounting bolts (the bottom one is the rear engine mounting bolt)  are too short. Does the Lucas D1 have an extra long engine mounting bolt?

rectifier3-1.jpg

It's really frustrating but my own fault for buying a box of bits. Any answers to explain the above appreciated!!

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grubsie
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January 2, 2017 - 7:33 pm
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The correct setup for the rectifier has holes drilled into the back of the toolbox and spacer/dowels used to keep the the rectifier about 1/8" away from the back of the toolbox.  Here's a picture of my toolbox. I would have shown it with the rectifier and spacers but it is absolutely freezing in my barn. I would have had frostbite by the time I dug out those bits.

 

Can't help with the battery holder as I do not have one. Don't even know where I can get one.  I will probably have to fabricate my own when the time comes.toolbox-rectifier1-2.jpg

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January 2, 2017 - 7:51 pm
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Thanks Grubsie, wish I'd know that before i painted it - looks like I'll have to be very careful when I drill those holes!

Can anyone confirm that the bolts are different? I can't see any other solution other than to use longer ones but I can't see any mention of a different engine mounting bolt in the parts book. 

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January 7, 2017 - 6:06 pm
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Thanks All, I think I have figured it out now. I drilled the toolbox and mounted the Rectifier.....

IMG_5484.JPG

And then made a spacer (using some hollow stainless steel tube that I bought to make the plunger spacers) for my new longer top bolt, making it the correct length to keep the toolbox vertical....

IMG_5485.JPGThe rectifier isn't usable so I mounted a solid state one inside the toolbox and made a hole at the bottom to get the wires in. No idea how to wire it as there are only two wires on the Lucas D1 rectifier as opposed to the usual three but, before I ask for help, I know there's a few posts about this so I'll see if the answer is there. I also have no idea where the wires are supposed to run but that'll just be trial and error....

IMG_5486.JPG

I wanted to make sure the tank didn't foul any of the wires so I fitted it to check and the area under the tank is looking correct now and everything fits except for the fact that the battery holder which I haven't fitted yet as it still needs painting, only allows for a battery box 5" tall. Are they available anywhere?

 

 

IMG_5488.JPG

It's definitely starting to look like a bike now....

 

IMG_5487.JPG

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cocorico
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January 7, 2017 - 8:53 pm
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Yes, I think that question was covered fairly recently and the answer is to only use half of the full wave replacement - have a look at post 48 ** Please log in to view **

I think you connect the 2 ac outputs from the generator to the 2 ac inputs of the bridge (marked ~) then the +ve terminal is connected to earth and the feed goes from the generator to the battery.

Best to confirm that from the other posts though!

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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mike p5xbx
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January 8, 2017 - 4:55 pm
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cocorico said
Yes, I think that question was covered fairly recently and the answer is to only use half of the full wave replacement - have a look at post 48

It was more recent then that, where DD said it would not work and you kindly explained how it does work 🙂
cant find the post though

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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Piquet
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January 8, 2017 - 7:10 pm
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Here

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tip-my-hat

I'm not a complete idiot ............................................ some parts are missing.

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January 23, 2017 - 8:54 pm
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As I had the back part of the original battery straps, I decided to cannibalise the front part of the new one so I straightened out the bottom hinge section, cut off an inch and then with a hacksaw and hammer, re formed and shaped it until it fitted the back section. 

Batbox-made.jpg

Of course my battery box was now an inch too big and I couldn't find one the correct size anywhere. It seems 5-1/2" is the smallest available for some reason. Probably only the Lucas D1 had a battery/box this small?  I had a brilliant idea of cutting down the box and then I did a search on the forum and found out someone had already done that before! 

I hacksawed through the bottom of the box as you can just about see in this photo and then cut off the bottom, filed it all straight and glued the bottom back on. 

Bat-1.jpg

And then I've been stuck for a week or so as I want to figure out how to route the wiring around the battery area but I needed to fit the battery box and before I could do that final fit, I needed to paint it, together with the new chainguard and a few other bits. However, it's been either wet, or very cold, or both so not good painting weather. 

I was getting impatient so as I was at home today I prepared all the parts and went for it. I rigged up a line across my bench that I could hang the bits from, then put a heater on the bench and warmed up the parts and the paint. I then kept grabbing the bits, running outside, closing the door to keep the heat in, spraying them, and running back in to dry them in the warmth. It actually worked so I ended up with the chainguard done....

Chain-guard.jpg

My brake switch - different on the Lucas of course, but I not only managed to find one but I also got lucky and bought the correct mounting plate ages ago with some other parts and didn't even realise I had it until last week so I painted the mounting plate and the switch itself..

BRAKE-SWITCH.jpg 

and finally the battery straps, done and fitted, together with the reduced height battery box, inside which is a dry cell 6v battery bolstered by some memory foam to stop it rattling. Battery-Box-2.jpg

...so now I can finish off the wiring by figuring out where the wires run. 

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March 3, 2017 - 8:52 pm
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Just spent two weeks in hospital! Came home from work, took ill, taken in, two weeks later I'm out and 6Kg lighter! 

The day before, I decided to torque up the cylinder head and stripped one of the bolts! All in all, it wasn't my best week.

While I was in I ordered a new bolt from Rex so I've been home a week now and feeling like pottering again so tomorrow, I'm going to fit the head and maybe put the numbers on the rear plate, then it's pretty much complete and I'll post some photos.

The only thing I'm not sure of is if I have the two wires to the rectifier the correct way around. What will happen if they are wrong (I'm thinking that the battery just wont charge?) and is there any way of testing it?

Also are the front number plates just sprayed on black? I've seen a couple of bikes where they look like raised panels so I'm not sure how they are applied. 

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April 20, 2017 - 9:51 pm
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Finished!! -ish. I bought it in August 2015 and started working on it in November 2015 so it's taken 17 months in all, although with quite a few breaks. 

Here's the before & after pics from my first dry run, putting it together to see if it would all fit, to today....

D1-RHS.jpgD1-LHS.jpgD1-Front.jpgD1-Back.jpgD1-speedo.jpg

I say 'ish' because although she started second time and ran well, the carb leaked due to the float needle not sealing and I still can't get it to seal, I suspect the float chamber lid is damaged so I'm still searching for a new one. I also found a problem with the front hub and I'm posting a question in technical. 

As you can see, the one original part I'm still missing is the points cover and I used a bit of artistic licence by painting the inner leg shields in ivory to match the tank panel.  

I'm really pleased with the result. although the advice never to buy a box of bits is definitely good advice! 

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mike p5xbx
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April 20, 2017 - 11:30 pm
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Kirkbybil said
 although the advice never to buy a box of bits is definitely good advice!   

But Not for that bikes well-being
you have done an really excellent job in giving it a new life

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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grubsie
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April 20, 2017 - 11:34 pm
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Amazing job Kirkbybil !!!  That's one fine looking scoot.

I am so jealous. I got all my parts for my D1 fitted and sandblasted last fall, when I had to call it quits due to the cold weather coming in.

Now that it's getting almost warm enough to consider painting, I have to take care care of other chores like cleaning up the property from the winter and finish painting the house (wife's orders), before I can get back to my D1.

I'll be sure to pick your brains when I can get back to it.

Again, great job. I'm sure you are going to have a blast riding it.

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Hans Kreuzen
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April 21, 2017 - 12:01 pm
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Congratulations, very nice restoration, love the attention to detail, and ones the bugs are sorted out, you will enjoy riding it.

Job well donethumbs-upclap

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, 1949 Aus. PMG replica D1 project and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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BonesCDI
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April 21, 2017 - 10:31 pm
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Very nice job...........well done

 

bones

Running and project bikes from 1912 -2005..........She hasn't said stop yet.........

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BSAdave
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April 22, 2017 - 9:16 am
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You got there in the end, looks great, well done

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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swalsh58
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April 22, 2017 - 10:45 am
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You have made an amazing job of that Bantam. Very well done, its almost art, you should be very proud.

Current bikes......1958 D5, a 77 Suzuki GT250 and a B175 almost ready for the road and a 76 Honda C90 in the workshop. A 1980 Honda CB400N now on the road and my everyday ride is a 2011 Harley Davidson Sportster. All bikes (except the D5) are now for sale...

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TallGuy
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February 1, 2020 - 7:39 pm
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Hi,

can I ask what length your toolbox spacer is, I have the same problem...  it would save me some trial and error..   

Brilliant job on the bike 🙂 

 

SORTED NOW THANKS.

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