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Kirkbybil's 1951 D1 Bantam De-Luxe
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Sprung Chicken
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May 24, 2016 - 9:47 pm
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Blast and paint. Some people fit the tyres before painting and carefully mask off the tyres.

Dougie;Glasgow ;Scotland.
1955 D1, 1970 B175

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Bournemouth Bantams
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May 24, 2016 - 11:00 pm
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Blast and paint as compete wheels, as long as they are running true and the spokes are ok. Remove all the bearings and spindles taking note of how they came apart as they can be a bit fiddly to re assemble in the correct order.

H

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Kirkbybil
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May 25, 2016 - 10:00 pm
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Thanks all, three out of three for blasting the wheel whole which makes life a lot easier and the process a lot shorter. I'll give them a thorough check over the weekend and if they are as sound as I think they are, I'll just strip the hubs etc (with photos) and get them blasted - thanks again.

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Mags 1
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May 25, 2016 - 11:38 pm
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Would never have thought of blasting a complete wheel as it stands.

Spokes are hard enough to get really clean, trying to get in between where they cross others, isn't going to be easy.

If enough time is spent though, and a rust preventative applied fairly quickly, I imagine it could work.

I strip mine right out, skim the drums and fit new spokes and rim.

But three salt laden Winters later, both stainless and galvanised spokes are corroded. 

Seems like you have nothing to lose and maybe a lot to gain, if it works out, no new nipples, spokes or rim to buy, no one to pay for rebuilding, no measurements to take for set over etc.

Good luck with it.

Only thing that might worry a bit is being assured that a "gentle" blast will be done, especially on the old spokes.

One local blasting company near me uses a portable Diesel engined compressor, the sort that powers pneumatic drills for roadworks!

Have a good look around and be sure they will look after your wheels I'd say.

Some of these people will etch prime too, for a bit extra.

Pity you won't experience the difference in round brake drums though, compared to the oval ones you probably have at the moment.

Your choice though, at the end of the day.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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BSAdave
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May 26, 2016 - 6:40 am
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I hand striped my wheels using a nasty paint stripper, it took time but I got them back to bare metal, then etch primed them, It was a long dirty job but it can be done. I have done three sets of wheels this way.

My time is free, I think I might have some Yorkshire blood in me rofl, well my surname is certainly from there. sorry

If the wheel is not true then i would replace the spokes has trying to re do it with old nipples on would be a problem.

I could agree with you, but then we would both be wrong

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Kirkbybil
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August 27, 2016 - 6:39 pm
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Nearly three months since I posted an update but I've not been sat on my backside lazing about, well not all three months anyway. I've been stripping and blasting (and having the big bits blasted by my local blaster). It's like deja vu and this is only my second bantam!

What I didn't realise was just how pitted most of the metalwork is, much worse than my D5, (apart from the D5 tank which was horrendous).

After blasting and filling any obvious holes I etch primed and then a coat of high-build primer and let it all dry and then when I inspected everything in the sunshine it looked like it has all been eaten by metal worms so I used stopper to fill all the tiny pits and have been sanding down ready to re-etch and prime.

The wheels were really bad and, of course, the hardest to sand due to the shape. Here's what they look like after stopping and re-sanding flat.. 

Wheel.jpg

A few of the spokes are really bad so I have a 'wanted' on the Forum if anyone has a few spares.

The but the pitting was just as bad on other parts:

Drum.jpg

Stay.jpg

and even the tank, which looked okay when I'd etched it was quite pitted when I looked closer:

tank-1.jpg

So back to the sand, stop, paint, stop, sand, paint loop until everything is nice and smooth because, as everyone knows, this is the important bit. Once it's all nicely primed the topcoat should be a doddle.

Oh, and I took all my chrome down to my local plater yesterday who did a great job on my D5 only to be told he has a four-month backlog! That's teach me to recommend him on this Forum laugh

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grubsie
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August 28, 2016 - 3:09 am
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Don't feel bad about not re-posting for 3 months about your rebuild. It's been many, many months since I have posted anything about my rebuild. I currently have 2 rebuilds going. My 1968 Honda SS125 and my 1951 D1.  Not complaining, but my business as a self employed in the construction industry has been crazy busy to say the least. In this business, you have to grab all you can for as long as you can before everything craps out again. My day starts at 5 AM and finishes around 10PM.  I am so tired by the time I get home that the last thing I want to do is go out to my workshop to work on the bikes for a couple of hours. But that is OK. They are not going anywhere.

I try to pick at the bikes a little on the weekends and have very slowly progressed, but every chance I get with the weather being so nice, I usually take the my wonderful bride of 37 years with me for a nice cruise on my 2002 Yamaha Royal Star Venture. Gotta ride every chance you can and you gotta ride as often as you can. Rode close to 1500 miles the last three weekends. The riding has been awesome.

You're doing great work on the D1 and whatever time it takes you finish it is the perfect time. Just remember to step back once and a while to enjoy the work you have been doing.

Now I just have to remember to take some time to document my rebuilds like the rest of you on here.  I am the worst when it comes to documenting my own work. By the time I remember, I am posting the final product without the journey.

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Anderzander
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August 28, 2016 - 8:26 am
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Great post Grubsie !! But please do take some pictures !

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Kirkbybil
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September 11, 2016 - 7:56 pm
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I've got D1 Deja-vu! It was 13 months ago that I was painting the D5 and posting pictures!

Can anyone tell me if there is a purpose for that open tube hole at the bottom of the frame?  It seems like it will just get full of water and crud and then rot (even though it hasn't in the last 66 years!).  

Is it a drain hole for something or should I bung it up? 

IMG_4731.JPGIMG_4732.JPGIMG_4734.JPG

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Hans Kreuzen
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September 12, 2016 - 11:40 am
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I blocked my frame tube up with a rubber bang that stops the center stand from hitting steel to steel.

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, 1949 Aus. PMG replica D1 project and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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Kirkbybil
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September 13, 2016 - 10:46 pm
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Thanks Hans, Where would I get a bung that size (he says eyeing up the bathlaugh)

Quite a few of my spokes on each wheel were very pitted so I managed to get a couple of dozen galvanised ones from Central Wheels. I etch primed them before fitting and then replaced them one at a time.

wheelspokes.jpg 

I thought doing it that way the wheel would stay in true but I soon realised that theres no way of measuring the the tension on an individual spoke so I'll still have to go through the same truing up process as for a rebuild but hopefully it'll be closer to start with than replacing them all at once or disassembling the whole wheel and the offset should be close as well.

For some strange reason it was only the longer spokes that were pitted - maybe it was always parked one side to the weather?

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Mags 1
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September 13, 2016 - 11:20 pm
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You hit the spoke with a screwdriver or whatever, to get the tension near, the note you get gives a rough idea of whether it's looser or tighter, higher or lower note etc. Simple really.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Hans Kreuzen
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September 14, 2016 - 9:38 am
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Kirkbybil said
Thanks Hans, Where would I get a bung that size (he says eyeing up the bathlaugh)

The bung I use is from when you buy a new Harley tank.

maybe a good rubber store could help, Try not to use your bath plug, It to hard to keep your bum over the plug hole when you have a bathwowcant-look

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, 1949 Aus. PMG replica D1 project and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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Kirkbybil
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September 14, 2016 - 10:09 pm
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I ended up putting the wheel back in my homemade jig and they were pretty much true so I got Lucky!

Seems a bit extravagant buying a Harley tank, chucking it away but keeping the bung Hans? I think it would make more sense if I put the tank on eBay or see if I can modify it to fit the D1 laugh

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Kirkbybil
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September 22, 2016 - 9:08 pm
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Like I said, deja-vu - but with wheels!

painting.JPG

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Hans Kreuzen
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September 23, 2016 - 10:07 am
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Looking good, at least you will be able to start re-assembling it all back together againthumbs-upKeep the progress pic's coming.

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, 1949 Aus. PMG replica D1 project and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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Kirkbybil
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October 3, 2016 - 1:10 pm
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Nearly done with painting, I'll post some pix soon. However, I need to get the transfers on before I can finish and I'm not 100% sure which are correct. It's a 1951 D1 Lucas deluxe so may be different? 

I think I need the following ones (No.s relate to club handbook) can anyone confirm please?

001 petrol tank x 2

025 piled arms for No.Plate bridge - Should there be a '125cc' transfer?
028 piled arms & garter for toolbox
031 gear indicator
057 made in England? Where does this go?
122 guarantee D shaped speedos - where does this go?
Any other? I thought there was one on the headstock and also I've seen a few D1's with something on top of the petrol tank?

thanks

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Kirkbybil
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October 5, 2016 - 10:24 pm
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Tank starting to look like a tank. Just needs cutting back & polishing, pinstripes adding, transfers and lacquer.

Paintedtank3.jpg

Paintedtank1.jpg

Paintedtank2.jpg

Anyone able to assist with the transfer question above? 

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Hans Kreuzen
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October 6, 2016 - 8:28 am
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Kirkbybil said
Nearly done with painting, I'll post some pix soon. However, I need to get the transfers on before I can finish and I'm not 100% sure which are correct. It's a 1951 D1 Lucas deluxe so may be different? 

I think I need the following ones (No.s relate to club handbook) can anyone confirm please?

001 petrol tank x 2

025 piled arms for No.Plate bridge - Should there be a '125cc' transfer?
028 piled arms & garter for toolbox
031 gear indicator
057 made in England? Where does this go?
122 guarantee D shaped speedos - where does this go?
Any other? I thought there was one on the headstock and also I've seen a few D1's with something on top of the petrol tank?

thanks  

Petrol tank is the bantam chook, make sure to get left and right (nothing worse than a chook running the wrong wayrofl)

Number plate is 125cc

Piled arms for toolbox on both sided's , make sure to get clear back ground  and not black

Gear indicator

Made in England is not used.

Speedo (for lightweight etc.) goes on the flat side of the housing.

No other stickers anywhere.

I buy all my water slide decals from Classic transfers.

The tank is looking great, make sure to go steady with the clear over the water slides, I have stuffed it up many timesdohrantingKeep up the good work, My 48 has come to a grinding halt, I need the alloy crank distance collar that has been put somewhere very whistlevery safe

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, 1949 Aus. PMG replica D1 project and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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Kirkbybil
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October 6, 2016 - 9:58 am
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Thanks Hans - First one I googled had the backwards chook!

chook.jpg

Couple of questions:

1. Are you sure the Number plate bridge has the '125cc'?  According to the BSA owners club it was just the piled arms and the cc wasn't added until 1954?

2. Piled arms on BOTH sides of the toolbox - Is this correct as I think only one side will be seen, the Rectifier and battery are on the other side.

3.  For the toolbox clear background do you mean this one:

toolbox.jpg 

and not this one:

wrong.jpg

I know what you mean about the varnish, did the same to my D5! 

I had a distance collar that Howard made but it turned out I didn't need it so he kindly took it back. I think I saw on your thread that he's contacted you so I'm sure he'll sort you out.

Cheers.

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