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Ibayorkie's D1
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chippy
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January 25, 2019 - 10:49 pm
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Surely simplest and safest would be to ring a chain supplier ( the one I use have a sprocket in their name ),I found them very helpful. Explain the situation and inform them you will send your link as a pattern, they will very likely tell you how much to send with your pattern, once they receive it , you will have a new link by return of post.

Chippy.

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gregor
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January 25, 2019 - 11:44 pm
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hi, it might have the number on the back of clip.  some have it some don't.

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cocorico
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January 26, 2019 - 7:47 am
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lbayorkie said
223341231284

Above is a split link for sale on Ebay, if seller is correct should fit a D1. 

Might be worth a punt.  

No, it is described as being for the primary chain. Best to measure your existing chain, compare with the chart and find the right chain number. As John implies (and numerous other posts), some sellers will supply a 420 chain (or link), which is OK if you have 420 sprockets. 420 is NOT the same as the original Renold chain though.

Bantams, don'tcha just love them? read-manualdunno

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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cocorico
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January 26, 2019 - 12:30 pm
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Looking at one of your previous posts (rear mudguard), I see that the sprocket fitted is a riveted one, so probably for a Renolds chain. Can't tell from the photo what the chain is, so you would still need to measure. One thing though - doesn't the Renolds chain use a different joining link, compared to newer sizes?

** Please log in to view ** another link to chain problems. Look at post no8.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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lbayorkie
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January 26, 2019 - 1:54 pm
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Thanks

Heres the plan: 

1. Look through parts receipts that came with bike 

2. Look for identification marks on chain

3. Measure chain and if thats not conclusive-

4. Send split link to chain dealer

 

The chain is new, not the original one by the way. Also rear wheel although fitted to a 1950 rigid frame seems to be from a later model, assumed to be a plunger. I am hoping chain and front and rear sprockets are matched.

Alan

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cocorico
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January 26, 2019 - 3:58 pm
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lbayorkie said
...The chain is new, not the original one by the way. Also rear wheel although fitted to a 1950 rigid frame seems to be from a later model, assumed to be a plunger. I am hoping chain and front and rear sprockets are matched.

Alan  

If it's new it may well be a 'metric equivalent', which doesn't fit!

See ** Please log in to view ** for even more info.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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mike p5xbx
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January 26, 2019 - 5:46 pm
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IF you have the correct rear chain fitted and Not a 415 or 420 chain
this is the correct split link and spring clip to buy
** Please log in to view **

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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lbayorkie
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January 26, 2019 - 6:25 pm
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No receipt but found a T & G Motorcycles parts book in which '11b Renold Chain, split link (state model)' was underlined and next to it 5/32" (whatever that meant)

Anyway lots of the links were marked (see attachment) so presumably all I need to do is pass the info or copy image to a chain dealer and obtain the split link.

I took the dims in any case:

Pitch 12.3mm

Roller Dia 8.55mm

Width 5.5mm

Alan

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mike p5xbx
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January 27, 2019 - 12:04 am
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you are lucky to have some original Renold chain
so the link I posted above should fit properly

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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lbayorkie
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January 27, 2019 - 8:50 pm
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Thanks for all the help I have received. I take it then that 08B EZ identifies it as the right chain for my D1 rigid.

Alan

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SpacedMarine
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January 29, 2019 - 5:51 pm
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cocorico said
I understand what you mean, John - but if you heat the clip to red, you probably de-temper it, so losing the spring that holds it in place in the grooves of the pins. It may stay in position without a problem, but for the cost of a replacement, is it worth it?

And if there should be a problem which causes a serious accident and the clip is found to be the cause, what would the insurance company do?

Just not worth the risk in my opinion, especially as Alan admits he's not very skilled in these matters (no offence meant, Alan).  

Not wishing to muddy the waters but couldn't you just leave it in the oven for an hour to re-temper it?agreed it's definitely a better idea to just buy a new one as it isn't going to vreab the bank but in a pinch?

What's 7/16 in mm again?

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lbayorkie
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January 29, 2019 - 6:28 pm
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I contacted a local chain dealer. He said he has loads of spring clips and to pop in with my split link and he will let me have some free!

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lbayorkie
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February 8, 2019 - 5:50 pm
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Except when I got there he didnt have any of the right size!

He measured my split link and said he could order me a Renolds one but that it was 1.5mm bigger in one dimension, as was his non-Renolds suggested split link. Very strange, unless Renolds have changed the Spec' of their 08B links in recent years.

 

Alan

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lbayorkie
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February 10, 2019 - 1:14 pm
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Dealer asked to see whole chain so im taking it in later this week. 

I took the opportunity to clean it and count the links. Looks like there are 58 link plates (including split link). I have noticed that my chain adjusters are pretty much at the extent of their rearwards travel, is it advisable to have a link taken out? If so I think the chain dealer would be able to do this.

Look forward to hearing from anyone.

 

Alan

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lbayorkie
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February 10, 2019 - 1:28 pm
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Sorted out points cam today and it now seems to run fine. Thanks to all who assisted me in resolving this.

But its not all good news. I have an oil leak from top of crankcase, I can see it bubbling when the engine is running. I dont know how serious this is but hopefully someone will tell me it isnt!

I assume its gearbox oil, so wont affect the running of the engine so all I need to do is keep topping up the gearbox- correct?

If it can be run like this, but is it fixable?

Really hope it isnt serious, I need to get it on the road this year, almost 18 months since I got go and its been one thing after another wrong since then!

 

Alan

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cocorico
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February 10, 2019 - 1:33 pm
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Did you follow the link in post 2 to FAQs? If so you will have seen the chart in Mike's post, which states that a standard D1 plunger has 117 links. Looks like you have 116 links, so maybe a metric 'equivalent'?

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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lbayorkie
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February 10, 2019 - 1:33 pm
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Heres n image relevant to to my last post.

Alan

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cocorico
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February 10, 2019 - 1:39 pm
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I doubt it's gearbox if it's coming from the top - the gearbox should be neither full, nor pressurised, so no oil from it should be up there! Maybe, if it's around the cylinder base, you have a blow from the base gasket, if not I would suspect a damaged joint in the crankcase halves, forward of the g/box area.

Perhaps a pic of the leak when the bike is running would help?

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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lbayorkie
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February 10, 2019 - 1:41 pm
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The image I provided was taken with the engine running. Its very clean oil which made me suspect the gearbox. Where else could clean oil be coming from?

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February 10, 2019 - 1:44 pm
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Nothing to worry about Alan, if it`s only that one area of crankcase sealing faulty,ie top of gearbox. You can wipe with thinners-soaked rag and work some petrol-resistant sealant into the join. Soak thinners rag in water before binning(self combustion safety issue).

Carb flooding(tickler) can be to blame.

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