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June 23, 2013
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The inner side id of the cam is slightly smaller than that of the outer. The fixing screw (normally a cheese head) sits inside the outer face of the cam with a small spring washer under it.
When replacing the cam, I find it easier if I hold the woodruff just key proud using a suitable drift (instrument screwdriver, etc) or often the cam just pushes the key down into the shaft. Put the cam over the drift first, then introduce them at the same time. Lookout for the tiny key jumping out!
1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).
December 6, 2016
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Thanks for the tip.
No spring washer and the screw/bolt isn't a cheese head. I there a recommended dealer who can supply these parts?
Alan
December 6, 2016
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Sorry, its just dawned on me that the bolt/washer/cam are actually engine parts, not ignition parts so I might be able to get them from one of the usual parts suppliers, Draganfly, Bournemouth Bantams etc.
January 9, 2013
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hi chaps i had some cut last week so if you get stuk let me know
December 6, 2016
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Thanks for the offer. I will have a fiddle over next couple of weeks and let you know. Im not sure if I will need the cam, probably just the screw, flat washer and locking washer. Do you have these? Alan
January 9, 2013
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yes Alan scew flat & lock washer but only 4 flat washers cut for me
December 6, 2016
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Thanks. Sent you a PM. Alan
December 6, 2016
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Used my new digital vernier for first time yeaterday. Surprised to find reading for rear spindle was .40 inch/11mm. I believe this is 7/16 when converted. I was expecting 1/2 inch.
Strange.
December 6, 2016
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I seem to have twisted the sliding part of my split link. Will i need to buy a new split link or can the sliding part be purchased separately? I should add i dont know the specification of the chain as it was on the bike when k bought it. Alan
May 14, 2014
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I dont think you would be able to buy the split link clip separately, I think you might have to buy the complete split link
Current bikes......1958 D5, a 77 Suzuki GT250 and a B175 almost ready for the road and a 76 Honda C90 in the workshop. A 1980 Honda CB400N now on the road and my everyday ride is a 2011 Harley Davidson Sportster. All bikes (except the D5) are now for sale...
August 31, 2016
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heat it to red and tap it flat.They carry no load.
67 D10. and a D7 2007 Honda Hornet FA. Honda CD200 81 93 Yamaha TTR 250 Raid, Sinnis SC 125. 75 Montesa Cota 247 an electric scooter of Famous make.
December 6, 2016
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Thanks will try heating up.
June 23, 2013
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johnsullivan said
heat it to red and tap it flat.They carry no load.
I don't agree, for the cost of a new link you are potentially risking the chain coming loose, with all sorts of possible outcomes, including serious injury.
I suggest you refer to this topic in FAQs to determine the chain size, then buy a complete link.
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1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).
August 31, 2016
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The link is not going to break .All it does is stop the side plate moving .if it is home in the slot then it is doing its job.if its dimensions have been changed by corrosion then a new one is needed.Ovalized holes in the side plates are a no no.
67 D10. and a D7 2007 Honda Hornet FA. Honda CD200 81 93 Yamaha TTR 250 Raid, Sinnis SC 125. 75 Montesa Cota 247 an electric scooter of Famous make.
May 14, 2014
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I’m not sure I would risk heating up the clip considering the cost of a new link is so low. The OP has said the clip was twisted, and sufficiently so to believe a new one was required. That twist will have imparted stress to the metal of the clip, and I agree the clip bears no longtitudinal stress which is all taken by the actual link. However,the clip does take a sideways force to prevent the link slipping out. The locating hole may be mis-shapened due to the twist and the metal weakened, heat will allow the main part of the clip to be straightened, and will also remove some of the stress damage that may have occurred but I would only use a clip like this in an absolute emergency. Remember a chain coming apart at even just 40 mph can do a lot of damage to both machine and rider. Is it worth the risk for a part that probably costs less than £5?
Current bikes......1958 D5, a 77 Suzuki GT250 and a B175 almost ready for the road and a 76 Honda C90 in the workshop. A 1980 Honda CB400N now on the road and my everyday ride is a 2011 Harley Davidson Sportster. All bikes (except the D5) are now for sale...
June 23, 2013
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I understand what you mean, John - but if you heat the clip to red, you probably de-temper it, so losing the spring that holds it in place in the grooves of the pins. It may stay in position without a problem, but for the cost of a replacement, is it worth it?
And if there should be a problem which causes a serious accident and the clip is found to be the cause, what would the insurance company do?
Just not worth the risk in my opinion, especially as Alan admits he's not very skilled in these matters (no offence meant, Alan).
1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).
December 6, 2016
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I havent had time to study the link provided in detail. Am I correct in saying I can tell the spec of the chain (and therefore the type of split link I need) by simply counting the number of links?
June 23, 2013
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No, you need to measure the links, as per the table in the link supplied (no pun intended), or google chain sizes.
1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).
August 31, 2016
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Ah yes... this 420 v imperial problem ..which is why I thought better the devil.. because the 'WRONG ' clip is a menace it.I apologize if I seem a bit casual as to safety .. sometimes a rap over the Knuckles is a good thing.
67 D10. and a D7 2007 Honda Hornet FA. Honda CD200 81 93 Yamaha TTR 250 Raid, Sinnis SC 125. 75 Montesa Cota 247 an electric scooter of Famous make.
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