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Ibayorkie's D1
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lbayorkie
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February 19, 2020 - 10:36 pm
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I can check the spindle diameter this weekend. What seems strange is that the spindle for early rigids is 1/2" but the bearing inner dimension in the Draganfly chart is 12mm. As you intimate 1/2" is 12.7mm so how can this be? 

Is it perhaps that everyone refers to the spindle as 1/2" but it is really 12mm? I can only think this is the answer. 

Im sure Bantam John told me the bearings were always metric so it follows that the spindle was as well. 

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February 20, 2020 - 3:47 pm
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All will be revealed once you strip out and measure the spindle dia, but you`ve made good progress and I`ll be very interested in the outcome because I have my own D1Rigid to tackle one day.

Blue

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lbayorkie
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February 20, 2020 - 5:39 pm
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I was talking to Howard at Bournemouth Bantams today. He was in the workshop and offered to take some measurements on one of the bearings he sells for D1 rigids and a spindle off a bike.

The bearing internal diameter was 12mm, and the spindle diameter was 11.77mm. I think this pretty much confirms that the 'so called' 1/2" spindle is not 1/2" at all.  

I will be checking my spindle at the weekend all being well just to be certain.

Alan

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Number6
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February 20, 2020 - 7:50 pm
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Because it used to be a German DKW? Metric! laugh

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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February 20, 2020 - 8:40 pm
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lbayorkie said
I was talking to Howard at Bournemouth Bantams today. He was in the workshop and offered to take some measurements on one of the bearings he sells for D1 rigids and a spindle off a bike.

The bearing internal diameter was 12mm, and the spindle diameter was 11.77mm. I think this pretty much confirms that the 'so called' 1/2" spindle is not 1/2" at all.  

I will be checking my spindle at the weekend all being well just to be certain.

Alan  

Good detective work Alan!

If you remove one of the spindle nuts, you should be able to get the average slim digital vernier caliper onto the spindle shank to confirm the 11.77mm...if that part of spindle doesn`t happen to be worn.....if you`re going down the 12x35x11mm route and not another option. Simply Bearings didn`t appear to have the 6202-12 for your application, although funnily enough, they did have an odd one with a 1/2" centre(12.7x35x11mm...a 6202-1/2" Special bore!) 

Plenty of 6202-12 bearings available elsewhere, just a case of getting the correct wheel bearing spec. My extremely brief check found only low-load examples for skateboards and chainsaws, but I`d be surprised if there weren`t suitable ones at around a fiver a pop.

I suppose you`ll want to check spindle is not bent and there`s no wear in the centre from jiggly bearings wibbly-wobbling in the hub at some time during its long life.

Blue

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lbayorkie
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February 22, 2020 - 7:28 pm
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I measured my rear wheel spindle diameter and it was 11.95mm. Its seems that there is no such thing as a 1/2" spindle!!!

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February 22, 2020 - 7:53 pm
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On the home straight now then Alan 🙂

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lbayorkie
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February 22, 2020 - 8:11 pm
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I need a tool to undo the bearing locking ring next. In fact I need two one for the converted plunger wheel and one for the rigid wheel i am renovating. I would make them myself but i dont have a welder. The ones on ebay are for D7s or later and in any case are a little expensive. 

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February 22, 2020 - 8:16 pm
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You can make a peg spanner without requiring a welder. Luckily there`s loads of ways of making such a tool. Old piece of galvanised water pipe, make a socket type two-pronged doobrywhatsit...here`s some clues :)...** Please log in to view **

...and what else do you require....a thin spanner for axle locknut?

Edit: Even better, just noticed the adjustable peg spanner further down the page on that link. Seen a few tricks with adjustable spanners but not that one before. I suggest drilling holes in fixed and movable jaws and either drive in interference fit pegs/pins, such as masonry nails, or tap out hole and thread in high tensile little bolts with loctite. Cut heads off to reveal shank to fit the locking ring holes. Plenty of options.

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lbayorkie
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March 8, 2020 - 9:02 pm
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I think I've got an issue with the points cam. Much earlier in the restoration I found the screw holding the points cam in place had fallen out. It seems now the reason may be that the screw had been cross threaded and I cant get my replacement screw back in. I was wondering how this can best be remedied. Would I need to dismantle the engine to replace the spindle?

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March 8, 2020 - 10:02 pm
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Hopefully the threads of the screw get minced up sacrificially and the threads within the end of the crank will be ok. If you cannot find a tap to chase down those threads then let me know because I have a shed-full of such equipment. 

Is the cam wibbly-wobbly on the woodruff key, or has a bit of corrosion saved the day in that dept...ie the cam is stuck steadfast to the crank?

Yes you would have to strip the engine to replace the shaft ...but hopefully the aforementioned treatment will suffice. Yours is not an uncommon issue.

Blue

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March 17, 2020 - 10:21 pm
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Probably not relevant to you now Alan, but look what I`ve just stumbled across re adapting later bearing inner to earlier spindle dia....** Please log in to view **.

Blue

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NeilB
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March 18, 2020 - 8:54 am
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lbayorkie said
I think I've got an issue with the points cam. Much earlier in the restoration I found the screw holding the points cam in place had fallen out. It seems now the reason may be that the screw had been cross threaded and I cant get my replacement screw back in. I was wondering how this can best be remedied. Would I need to dismantle the engine to replace the spindle?  

As Blue says, with some luck the screw will have been destroyed rather than the crank spindle, however if both are damaged you may be able to use a helicoil (other brands available) if there's enough wall thickness in the spindle, I can't picture it off the top of my head.

As for the wheel bearing cap tool, I made mine with 4mm bolts, a couple of nuts, a small length of strip steel, and a grinder to carefully remove the threads on the last few mm of the bolts until they were a really snug fit in the cap holes. Hopefully my description makes sense!! 

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NeilB
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March 18, 2020 - 9:07 am
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Blue Heeler said

Good old Brit bikes, every size imaginable was used over the years ....even C3-fit bearings for those worn housings too.

Cheers

Blue  

I do find myself using metric sockets and spanners as often as imperial, plus obviously 9/16 and 5/8 are all but identical to 14mm and 16mm anyway. Interestingly, the 11mm won't fit in some places that require 7/16, the later being fractionally bigger.

Just for completeness, C3 bearings actually have fractionally larger internal clearances to allow for high speed use (more heat, more expansion), definitely not something that's necessary for bantam wheel bearings! 

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lbayorkie
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March 18, 2020 - 9:55 am
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Thanks Blue

Thats very intetesting, to be honest I wouldnt have made the link with my rear wheel. Ive now got oversized bearings which are probably the best way to go. Wish Id kbown about these 2 years ago before I got sone made by Bantam John. Fraction of the price!

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lbayorkie
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March 18, 2020 - 10:05 am
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I made a tool for the wheel bearing lock nuts. Its alloy but does the job. 20200318_095722.jpg

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Blue Heeler
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March 18, 2020 - 3:15 pm
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Well done on sourcing the bearings Alan and nice work with your peg spanner tool.

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Blue Heeler
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March 18, 2020 - 3:31 pm
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NeilB said

Just for completeness, C3 bearings actually have fractionally larger internal clearances to allow for high speed use (more heat, more expansion), definitely not something that's necessary for bantam wheel bearings!   

Ah yes, general kcoc-up back to school situation for me on that one. So a C2 fit for slightly smaller internal dia bearing to fit an evenly worn shaft/spindle?

Thankfully Alan looks sorted, so no overly fancy-fit bearings required.

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lbayorkie
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March 28, 2020 - 7:34 pm
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I bought a speedo drive the other day. Someone has tried to repair it and has replaced the 4 x securing screws with two bolts. I dont think theres much I can do about these- much as I would like to. However, I noticed the grease nipple has been pretty much mangled and also the the thread has been stripped. I was hoping someone could tell me what the size is so I can buy a replacement- suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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March 29, 2020 - 2:01 am
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Any chance of a photo of the bolt mod Alan?

Can probably check grease nipple size for you tomorrow afternoon.

Blue

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