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Ibayorkie's D1
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cocorico
Central France
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June 10, 2019 - 8:32 am
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lbayorkie said
 I wont ask any more questions. Sorry if I have caused any problems to you or any other forum members.  

That's not necessary at all. You just seem to go from one problem to another without seemingly fixing the first problem (at least, to my view). I see every post on the forum, so I do tend to get a bit narked (a bit? some would say) from time to time - other members I can't speak for, but most likely no problem.

Keep going, you'll get there in the end, just remember that as a Member, you have access to all the tech info you should need, besides that in the open forum.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn, including a Morini 250 now insured and on road testing.

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johnsullivan
east sussex
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June 10, 2019 - 1:11 pm
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I am not convinced the rear downtube is vertical. 

67 D10. and a D7    2007 Honda Hornet FA. Honda CD200 81 93 Yamaha TTR 250 Raid, Sinnis SC 125.   75 Montesa Cota 247 an electric scooter of Famous make.

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lbayorkie
Otley, West Yorkshire
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June 10, 2019 - 1:48 pm
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Its true I have had a lot of problems. Some have been resolved but progress is slow. I don't have the time to really 'get stuck in' until I retire (work 5 days a week, grand kids, elderly mother etc..etc). Plan was to ride it around until then and at that point strip it down properly. 

I noticed a problem with the rear of the bike early on. I found out it was the wrong wheel, so I had it converted to fit the frame, which seemed fine but the mudguard wouldnt fit, I spent months bodging the mudguard and then looked again at the frame and realised it was bent. The trouble is its hard to know where to start, is one component wrong or all they all wrong?

I think now I have realised the frame isnt quite right the answer is probably to get it jigged up. The frame is the logical place to start but I cant see me having time to strip it down until I retire, so Im just going to have to accept that. At least it will give me the time to save up some money for the jigging!

I am actually quite lucky, having very recently met someone who knows a bit about Bantams who has offered to help where he can, so with luck there will be less questions going forward- but I cant impose on him too much of course.

 

Alan

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cocorico
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June 10, 2019 - 2:34 pm
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lbayorkie said
...I am actually quite lucky, having very recently met someone who knows a bit about Bantams who has offered to help where he can, so with luck there will be less questions going forward...

That's part of the problem - we've been trying to help solve the questions from a distance. Much easier if you can actually see and feel the bike.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn, including a Morini 250 now insured and on road testing.

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mike p5xbx
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June 10, 2019 - 4:12 pm
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the angle of the N/Side “dropout” is quite obviously wrong (post 216 bottom photo)
the two side must be parallel and in line
the frame is bent and must have been in an accident to cause that amount of misalignment

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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stubaker58
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June 11, 2019 - 8:26 am
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I think you’re right to say start with the frame and in your position I’d have to go to a specialist too. Stripping the frame is not too many hours work, easily achieved in a day as you won’t be taking down other items just removing them. The front end will come off in one piece, the engine out and then you’re almost there.

looking at the frame I agree about the near side dropout, it looks as if it’s been welded back on wrongly.  You could also get an idea about how far forward the distortion is by seeing if the tubes for the seat spring fixing match up as I believe there should be a through bolt which gives a fixing for the rear ‘guard.

Regards

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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lbayorkie
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June 11, 2019 - 2:17 pm
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When I spoke to the frame straightener (in Manchester) he said he wanted the engine left in so that would be slightly less work. Even so Im starting to think it might be easier to scrap the frame and buy a new, roadworthy bike. This time from someone I know I can trust, such as a club member.

I think I could recover quite a bit by selling off the components.

 

Alan

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lbayorkie
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July 17, 2019 - 1:42 pm
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Spoke to John Phelan today, he doesnt straighten frames but can arrange for them to be done. When I told him it looked like my sea/chain stays have been widened and the wheel dropout was pointing upwards he said he he didnt want to know and suggested I didnt take the frame to him.

Just hope that another frame straightener will see it as too difficult.

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lbayorkie
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November 3, 2019 - 3:10 pm
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Had a lot of trouble finding a straightener who was prepared to look at my Bantam. In then end I found a firm in Malton that seemed happy to do the job. A 100 mile round trip was the only problem I thought, well I was wrong. This Bantam of mine seems to go from bad to worse. See attached image. 20191102_112406.jpg

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SpacedMarine
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November 3, 2019 - 3:43 pm
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Do you think its had an accident at some point?Seems to be something wierd going on there with all the issues it has?

What's 7/16 in mm again?

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stubaker58
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November 3, 2019 - 3:51 pm
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Ouch!!

D7/14 hybrid (4 speed with D7 crank etc.) on the road, D10 Bushman awaiting rebuilding.

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cocorico
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November 3, 2019 - 4:19 pm
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As said - ouch! What state was the right hand footrest in when you bought it? Any signs of damage?

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn, including a Morini 250 now insured and on road testing.

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lbayorkie
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November 3, 2019 - 4:37 pm
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I am a bit of a novice and I trusted the seller who had spent a lifetime as a police motorcyclist before 'renovating' this Bantam. It was sold as roadworthy. Its a case of 'caveat emptor' but as you will agree he had excellent credentials. The damage to the end was caused by setting the bike up on the jig- the bottom bracket was used as the datum and had metal plugs (dont know what proper name is, mandrels perhaps?) driven into each side to hold the bike steady. We had noticed before we started work the holes were oval and this one was almost worn through at the bottom and there was a split from one side to the other but it was decided to try anyway.

In the end it was repaired by welding and it then went back on the jig. All extra time and money.

 

I

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swalsh58
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November 3, 2019 - 5:55 pm
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You have been so unfortunate with that machine. You do know that when it’s roadworthy though, almost everything has been sorted. I reckon it has to be a keeper!

Current bikes......1958 D5, a 77 Suzuki GT250 and a 77 Honda CB125S. I have a B175 in the workshop and a 76 Honda C90 waiting its turn. A 1980 Honda CB400N waiting for MOT.  Everyday ride is a 2011 Harley Davidson Sportster. 

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lbayorkie
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November 3, 2019 - 6:12 pm
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Thanks

I still need to find time to fit the mudguard, which was the problem that opened this can of worms in the first place. In addition I have an issue with the speedo drive which gets tighter as the wheel rotates, I need to have a think about why this is happening. 

Next job though is to prime the welds and areas where frame was heated to stop rust developing.

 

Alan

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