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Bola's Swinging Arm D3 Restoration
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Bola
Swindon
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July 21, 2016 - 7:21 am
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Many thanks to you both, We've been stuck on this for some time!

bow

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Mags 1
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July 21, 2016 - 11:37 am
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The unnumbered thing on the axle itself, that looks like a half nut confuses me, why would you show something fitted without a name or any recognition of it?

I'm also experiencing the same difficulties with my D1's rear axle, speedo either wobbling or binding, paint scraped etc.

I'm going to fit some new shoes I've purchased and try some washers on the spacer at the same time.

I thought before that the tightness needed to be between the outer locking nuts and the inner nuts with the frame member sandwiched in between.

Looks like I was wrong.

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Bola
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August 30, 2016 - 11:52 am
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Hi All 

Up date - managed to get the wheel on the bike tight and working. Mags 1 tightness does come from the outer locking nuts and not the inner. The "Half nut" shown without reference doubles as a washer cover guide. Moving this down the thread i think will a line the whole spindle and give the correct thread length on both sides. 

Here is the thread length's as of today with the "Half nut" tightened up as much as possible. (small nut also attached but Ill change it tonight):

Read-nut.JPG

 

Thread on right side too long:

Right-wheel.JPG

I managed to get a new Thick nut for the left side. This gives the correct spacing from the frame. No extra internal spacer required for the speedo. 

 

I'll try get some more pic's on here for future reference. 

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Cornish Rooster
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August 30, 2016 - 12:09 pm
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If you go to the Tech FAQ section there is some info on the rear wheel arrangement (bearings/spacers etc).

Phil

BSA Bantam D1 "150" in use regularly often as general purpose transport, quite a few other bikes as well. Cornwall Area Rep. 

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Cornish Rooster
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August 30, 2016 - 12:14 pm
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Here:

** Please log in to view **

There is a lot of info the FAQ section as most of these common issues have been raised before.

Phil

BSA Bantam D1 "150" in use regularly often as general purpose transport, quite a few other bikes as well. Cornwall Area Rep. 

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Bola
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August 30, 2016 - 2:13 pm
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Great - wish i found that link 2 months ago laugh

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Cornish Rooster
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August 30, 2016 - 2:23 pm
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Yes we put up a lot of info on the FAQ section, I did quite a bit for D1/3 for the usual questions, just see how many hits the "D1/3 carb" info has !

Other common questions are things like centre stand arrangement, clutch, general maintenance and so on, the FAQ section covers quite a bit and should be a useful resource, plus often one photo says a thousand words and makes things easier than trying to decipher a exploded drawing. If I come across anything for D1/3's that's not been covered that's a often asked question then I don't mind making more FAQ threads, but it seems the common ones are fairly well covered.

If anyone on here is a new owner then I would recommend having a look through the FAQ section.

Phil 

BSA Bantam D1 "150" in use regularly often as general purpose transport, quite a few other bikes as well. Cornwall Area Rep. 

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Piquet
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August 30, 2016 - 10:45 pm
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I've recently put my D3sa back on the road after 'resting' for 47 years. When I took the rear wheel off to clean it up etc. I found the swinging arm was 'pinched', there was more thread visible on the speedo drive side than the chain side and when the o/s outer nut was undone the arm sprang away from the speedo drive leaving a nut sized gap between the drive retaining nut and arm.

I measured the width of an assembled D5 arm (which is identical to a D3sa arm) and it was the same size as my un-tensioned arm so I presumed there must be something wrong with my hub set-up but couldn't find anything missing. I added an extra speedo drive locknut and it still fits in the arm and when the outer nuts are tightened the spindle is flush with the outside of the wheel nut and the wheels line up properly now.

Any spacing needs to be done on the speedo drive side to ensure the brake plate torque arm stays connected to the retainer on the n/s of the arm. The brake plate retaining nut is a special item, extra deep to space the plate correctly away from the arm and still connect the torque arm. The special deep nut also has a shoulder that fits into the brake plate to centralise the plate in the hub.

It's been running with the extra nut now for over 500 miles with no problem.

I'm not a complete idiot ............................................ some parts are missing.

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Bola
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October 19, 2016 - 12:39 pm
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Hi All,

Looking to add tank transfers to my nearly restored D3. After searching on the web I've become confused on what way round they were originally put on and if it should say "Bantam Major" being a D3?

Looks to be any number of ways but can't find solid evidence even searching on this forum or the net. Should the bantam face forward (left and right side of the bike), Should it be at the beginning of the transfer, be at the front end of the bike (One face forward one face back) should it have a circle round the bantam??

1.JPG2.JPG3.JPG4.JPG

 

Please help. 

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cocorico
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October 19, 2016 - 3:16 pm
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Here's my unrestored D3 as an example

Tank.jpg

The other side (lhs) has the Bantam «censored» to the front (ie, same transfer).

Edit '«censored»' was censored, so I'll say Cockerel, though it's not really correct stick-poke_gif.

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The Bantam Club Forum - all the answers are in there. If not, Google may.

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Bola
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October 19, 2016 - 3:41 pm
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Excellent - Thank you!

Ok so "bantam Major" will be going on - Bantam will be facing forward on the right side of the tank land facing the rear on the left side.

Was the Major the swing arm model? might be silly question but just for my own pace of mind!

 

Next question will be about the pin striping.... I see you have red and gold. My bike is "Devon red" or Maroon. the other pic's I sent they were also red and gold. 

I'll need the correct colour and also please can you tell me the measurement between them (This also differs on some tanks)? it looks identical all the way around in the picture. tip-my-hat 

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cocorico
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October 19, 2016 - 4:26 pm
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OK, mine's a 1956 swing-arm model, in grey. The stripes (where they remain) are red and gold, but don't ask what shade - they are 60 years old!

Spacing varies, 0.5" underneath, 0.6" at the front, 0.7" on top and 0.8" at the rear - I only measured one side, roughly, wink.

The Bantam Club Forum - all the answers are in there. If not, Google may.

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jess steele
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October 19, 2016 - 4:31 pm
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Bola said
Excellent - Thank you!

Ok so "bantam Major" will be going on - Bantam will be facing forward on the right side of the tank land facing the rear on the left side.

Was the Major the swing arm model? might be silly question but just for my own pace of mind!

 

Funnily enough i asked the same question on monday when i phoned classic transfers.

Marcia told me that bob(he's no longer with us)went into great descussion with vmcc and did a lot of research and it appears that the bantam major transfers were never handed,marcia also sent me a letter backing up bobs findings.

So as ricococo says cockeral at the back on the rhs and at the front on lhs....

Classic transfers also said that some years ago the vmcc did have batches made up which were handed (cockeral @ the back on both sides)

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Bola
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October 20, 2016 - 8:11 am
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Many thanks,

After more searching on the web last night I also found this on a familiar forum:

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This has help me and I hope helps others, thank-you

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cocorico
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October 20, 2016 - 9:07 am
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'Hand painting of a Royal Enfield tank'... Another skill pretty much lost to the UK, I fear. Just as well we can get such stuff from India?

The Bantam Club Forum - all the answers are in there. If not, Google may.

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Kirkbybil
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October 20, 2016 - 9:38 pm
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Hi, I just saw this thread so I thought I'd mention that I posted an article on tank painting that covered how I did the pinstriping here: ** Please log in to view **

I have just used the same method to paint my D1 tank which has the same double stripe as the D3:

IMG_4926-1.JPG

I'm not saying it's the only way, or the correct way or the best way but it was really easy and it looks the part. I can't stress enough though that you MUST use ONLY 3M 3mm masking tape. Anything else I have tried such as frog tape, other vinyl pinstripes cannot be successfully bent around the tight turns and the paint can bleed but with the 3M tape it's a doddle. Really easy to apply and remove.

This is the stuff on eBay ** Please log in to view **  and it's the green one you need if you decide to try it.

I was worried about doing the tank and really thought it would be difficult but I was amazed how easy it was using this tape which was recommended to me by my paint supplier. I did both pinstripes on both sides of the D1 tank from start to finish in a couple of hours last week and I have no experience or expertise so I'm sure anyone can do it. You can put the tape on, see what it looks like and if your not happy lift it, reposition it many times and it still works fine.

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Anderzander
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October 21, 2016 - 12:17 am
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I posted the Enfield clips a while back too - there are two of them: ** Please log in to view **

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Kirkbybil
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October 21, 2016 - 2:17 pm
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Yep, I guess you could try that as well cant-look

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Bola
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October 21, 2016 - 3:42 pm
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Haa, 

Wouldn't mind getting someone to Pin stripe the tank for me! (if anyone knows a place not in India)

Tape looks good but i worry about spraying the tank myself - what if i get runs on it or mess it up!! doh

 

I'd rather get tape that sticks on but can't see any. I know might not be as permanent but I've got the option to re-do it if the worst happens, and the paint shop wont need to spray the whole the tank again!

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Bournemouth Bantams
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October 21, 2016 - 7:20 pm
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Bola have a look at the pictures I have just posted in the resto D1 section "Bitsa special" the pin striping is self adhesive tape clear coated to seal it and stop any possibility of it shrinking and coming off. Howard

Supplier and stockist of Bantam spares.

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