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Bola's Swinging Arm D3 Restoration
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Kirkbybil
Harrogate
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June 30, 2016 - 8:18 pm
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I bought a new silencer for my D5 which didn't have the correct 'dints' for the footrest etc. I used a fine adjusting tool (hammer) to create them and it worked fine! 

I'll see if I have a photo of the stand assembly when I'm in front of my laptop.

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Kirkbybil
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June 30, 2016 - 9:27 pm
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Here's some photo's of my D5's stand assembly which should be very similar:

P1010454.jpgP1010455.jpgP1010472.jpg

There's also a good diagram in the parts book, here's a link to it on the Draganfly site ** Please log in to view **

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Bola
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July 1, 2016 - 10:03 am
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Perfect gents.

Great.. this should really kick us forward again!

We have now a new stop plate (thanks maddog) and great pic's chicken man on how it assembles! thumbs-up

We have also see the dragonfly web page but not the link that you have posted - this is much clearer. Am I correct in saying that the centre stand sleeve (with exhaust cut out) runs through the centre of the frame?

 

centre.JPG

 

In my original pics the two spacer bars are to close to the frame. These I guess these hold the foot rubbers on, so I need the centre stand sleeve (with exhaust cut out) think I had a old one around. And not sure if I need anything on the left hand side? looking on dragonfly there looks a smaller "LH spacer". Will this go under the break peddle next to the frame?

 

Many thanks for all the inputbow

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Bola
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July 1, 2016 - 10:07 am
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Also will still need to think about the exhaust issue... If I get a new one I don't feel like modifying it with a hammer unsure

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Maddog Leary
Melbourne Australia
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July 2, 2016 - 1:32 am
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No worries Bola, bikes starting to look good!

MD cheers

Maddog - 56 Swingarm D3 Major -  Major Works in progress! Machine is fighting against me every which way!

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Derek's D5
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July 2, 2016 - 8:24 am
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Just clean up the original exhaust for now. The patina of age (some call it rust) is very 'in' these days. At least the original exhaust will fit straight back on without any hassle, unlike many new pattern exhausts, where a bit of tweaking is required.

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Bola
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July 5, 2016 - 8:43 am
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Just thinking the patina look of the exhaust might look a little different from the rest of the bike as its all shiny and new. Still ease and budget might play its part! cheers

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Bola
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July 11, 2016 - 10:20 am
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So I have what I think are all the parts now for the foot rest. However, the nuts wont fully fit on the foot bar threads. Also adding pic's for future questions about this in the hope it will help someone some day.

Bar-1.JPG

Bar2-1.JPG

 

Loos like there is no bush in the frame so as you see above this is where the gap is.

 

Here it is on my D3 Major (With new stop plate)

Bar-fit.JPG

 

However as stated above the nuts will not fit on to the bar thread, this is the same on both ends.

bar-nut.JPG

 

Any more advice welcome thinking_gif

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Anderzander
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July 11, 2016 - 11:00 am
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is your new bar to original spec ? I think the bolts are supposed to be 1/2" BSF

Can I ask where you got the rod ? Mine doesn't sit square, so I suspect it's been bent at some point.

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jess steele
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July 11, 2016 - 1:00 pm
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There seems to be two lengths of rod  quoted, 19/1/2 and 20 1/2 I assume the 19 1/2 rod is for the d1 and d3 plungers as the front pipe is longer and slimmer and the spacer bar with the cut out doesn't need to be as wide as the later d3 and d5 swing arm models as it's the silencer that passes of the spacer thus the silencer being wider than the d1's down pipe,if that makes sense.

Or it could be that the rod you have is even shorter than the 19 1/2 inch minimum ?...

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Bola
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July 11, 2016 - 1:27 pm
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Not sure the length of the rod, It was bought as "D3 Bantam" foot rest.  It was also the same length as the one in the basket of bits - and I had no idea there were two different sizes. I will find out the size tonight and let you know.

I guess the other option is that one of the bushes are too long? the two that the rubbers go onto look OK and the cut-out one for the exhaust looks original. Does anyone know the correct length for each one of them?

Confused!

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Anderzander
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July 11, 2016 - 2:56 pm
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Ooo - I hadn't looked at all the photos - I see what's happening now. Sorry !

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Bola
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July 12, 2016 - 8:56 am
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Rod length looked to be 20 inches, maybe not std size but that was measuring while in the bike. So must be the correct size as Jess stated above (At least 19 1/2 "). I had another go at it last night and managed to get the nuts to bite some more on the thread by removing washers on both sides. So i guess the only other option is that the bush that runs under the exhaust is a bit too long. Does any one know the correct length this should be?

Also i've seen some people drill a hole through the nut and rod for a split pin. This might be my only option so the nut does not shake loose if this bike ever gets going! fingers-crossed    

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Bola
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July 12, 2016 - 10:38 am
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Hello.

I'm having issues with the front wheel not fitting. Looks like the front forks are not quite wide enough to accommodate the wheel spindle. The wheel has been assembled correct as far as we know. Is there a standard side for the forks to be??

At the moment the welded bottom plate is on the inside of the fork, could this cause a issue?

Fork-1.JPG fork-in.JPG

 

Wheel-nut.JPG wheele-nut2.JPG

 

Thanks

tip-my-hat

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sunny
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July 12, 2016 - 11:54 am
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the  welded  on  bits  of   metal  go  on  the  OUTside    of each  leg  you need  to  tack  out  each  leg   put it in  the   yokes  on  the   other  side  and  tern  the iner & outer  legs   to  be  corect     at  the  botom   &   grease nipal

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Bola
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July 12, 2016 - 1:53 pm
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Nice 1 sunny thanks! 50/50 chance and i got it wrong! story of this restore so far! Thanks for the help and keeping me pushing forward!

thumbs-up

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Bola
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July 20, 2016 - 9:01 pm
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Hi Guys,

Can anyone help again!!

We are trying to assemble the rear wheel. Looking at Dragon Fly.com expanded views we appear to have all the parts, however we are still unable to assemble without either the brake plate binding or the speedo box binding.  We feel there is a spacer or something missing because when all tightened the wheel binds and is un able to spin freely.

Also is the Barrel cap and washer part of the speedo drive box? or not required?

*** Image attachment removed from post content ***

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Anderzander
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July 20, 2016 - 9:44 pm
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I had something similar on my D7 - part of it was a bearing not having seated fully, but the main bit was the speedo driver wasn't spaced away sufficiently - it needed an additional internal spacer.

Couple of links here:

** Please log in to view **

** Please log in to view **

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Bournemouth Bantams
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July 20, 2016 - 10:23 pm
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That exploded view does not show the spacer that goes inside the speedo drive, it is about 1/2" thick and allows you to tighten up the speedo drive box and lock it to the spindle. dependant upon which speedo gear box you have means you may have to add another washer to get the correct spacing, the back edge of the gearbox should just clear the spokes if it touches the spokes then you need to add another washer.

"H"

Supplier and stockist of Bantam spares.

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sunny
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July 21, 2016 - 7:20 am
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the   bantams    not  fited   with  a  speedo   has  a  cup & washer   to  keep it  cleane     the  part  ringed  in  red  in   the  dyagram

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