I'm Dave and I live in Llanymynech on the Shropshire\Welsh border.
I've been using this fantastic site loads as a reference for my 1961 Bantam D7 project. It is about time I shared what I have been up to!
This is my first motorcycle, I am a keen cyclist and have always built my own bikes, having moved to an area with a lot of hills a motorbike suddenly appeals!
I chose the Bantam as I love the classic BSA design.
I'm doing this the hard way, I started with a frame and forks and I am buying the rest as I need it, although have most parts now.
I'm going for a trials looking bike, standard D7 but knobbly tyres, a slightly different headlamp and possibly alloy mudguards.
Enough waffle, here are some pictures.....
This is where I am up to so far.
I have hand painted the frame with enamel, as this is how I believe they came from the factory, I carefully wet sanded between each coat and have got a finish I am happy with.
The tank is one of two that I have, painted in an original BSA shade of BMW gunmetal grey... I was inspired by the fantastic D7 on you tube. The only problem with this tank is that the yokes catch it when turning right. I'm guessing that this is because it is from a later model where an ignition lock was supplied rather than the two pad-lock holes in the frame yokes?
The other tank I hav is an early pear shaped badge tank which fits perfectly. This had a dent in it that I have sorted out and I have got it's first coat of primer on today. Unfortunately the picture is a bit blurry to post.
Here's the tool box cover that I have painted...
I picked up the trials style handlebars for £2 from the Stafford show, I've treated them to a new coat of paint.
This is the headlamp I am going to fit, Original 60's Lucas 5 3/4" light in fantastic condition, a bargain £20 off ebay,
I just need to find some subtle brackets to attach it to the stanchions.
And this is what I have been working on today, from this..
I need to install the springs into the stanchions, but don't have a socket that will fit in the recess in the Yoke top nut to undo the spring nut (The springs came fully assembled). Does anyone know where I can get a suitable "slim" socket?
I've also got to straighten one of the foot rests I have, anyone got any tips on doing this or should I just look for another?
I'm off to the Welshpool Airshow / Festival of Transport tomorrow, Hopefully the weather will be good and a few classic bikes will show up!
Welcome Dave !
Cracking job you are doing there and a lovely paint finish you're achieving
Looks like a really nice workshop too.
On my D7 the yoke just catches the tank on right lock too - I've often thought of replacing it with a pear shaped tank. The bike is '65 and I think the tank style that's on it may only have come in '66 - so if you're right about the steering lock mine has perhaps inherited a later tank.
Thanks for posting.
Looking forward to following your progress !
Your D7 rebuild is one of the reasons I chose a Bantam to restore! You have done a brilliant job of it. Looks like you are close to getting it on the road.
The front mounts of the late tank are also wider than the "Pear" tank, looks like a spacer is required and the holes take a 3/8" bolt rather than the 5/16" that the frame needs?
I'll take photo of the problem area tomorrow!
Hi dave,wellcome to the forum, ...i have to say what a superb job you are doing, and its your ist motor cycle!!, im well impresed. nice paint job, is it two pack? as most modern paint is not petrol resistant ( i found out the hard way)...the foot rest can be straightend if you can get it hot enough, really needs to be cheery red....as for a socket for the spring nuts, i just took a regular socket and ground it down on my bench grinder till it went through the yoke top nut..sorted!
January 24, 2012
October 8, 2011
Thanks for the kind comments everyone.
I have painted everything myself using the various Halfords rattle can products. I have rubbed down after each coat with 1200 wet and dry, taken my time and got lots of coats on.
I helped my Dad restore an MG midget when I was a teenager and also had several Minis so have some experience of rust removal and painting.
I have painted the tank with standard laqeur as the fuel resistant stuff sounded a pig to get a good finish with.
Ill get my blow torch out and have a go at the footpeg later!
I have made a little more progress today, as you can see my work was being checked by the boss...
The hub and brake plate are now complete, just need to wait a few days for the paint to harden fully before I think about building the wheel. I also had a go at the rim, but the rust has eaten into it a lot. I need to decide now whether to do carry on and paint them or replace with new stainless or chrome rims. I don't want to rebuild them only for the rust to re-appear.
This is the other tank, this has been flattened down and I have just given this a coat of grey primer ready for the top coat,
I trial fitted this tank on the frame earlier, the dark yellow of the filler primer looked really good against the black frame! Wish I had got a photo. I'm going to paint this tank blue, as this was the original colour according to Howard who kindly dated the frame for me. I have a tin of Rover electric blue for it, which sounds horrible but is a nice dark grey\blue colour, which should complement the age of the bike well.
There were only 6 bikes at the show today, but one was a Gold Star, one a lovely C15 (my next project?) and one a nice original D14/4. Can't grumble at that!
For a socket to undo the inner fork nuts I bought a set of 10/11 & 12/13mm box spanners through Amazon for about £3 for the two.
The sizes are apparently used for the nuts securing basin/ sink mixer taps, I can't remember which metric size is a close fit but if you had to grind down the outside to fit it in, it's better to do it with a £3 box spanner than one of your sockets IMHO.
Thanks Iain, I'm on the lookout for some box spanners!
Thanks D7_Silver, it's definitely my first bike, only did my CBT a few weeks ago!
I've been messing around more with the other tank this week, the blue didn't look great, so it was then a flat green, but I wasn't completely happy with that so now it is a metalic dark green and it looks great! Just need to do the other half and laquer it now...!
Has anyone used fuel resistant Lacquer/clear coat? What is it like to apply? Is it essential? Obviously fuel left on it is going to eat into the paint, but if it is washed off straight away will it damage the paintwork?
I also picked up some other bits at the weekend;
I've gently cleaned it up and repainted the needle, pic to follow!
dave, sorry mate , i found out the hard way that Halfords spray cans can give a wicked finish, but you have to use the petrol resistant lacquer. i didnt, when my D3 restoration was started for the first time , i tickeled the carb as you do , and the petrol dripping on to the chainguard took the paint of in seconds, i didnt get the chance to wipe it off, bare metal in seconds!!..... made a complaint to Halfords and they said ,.....'oh, you should have used our petrol resistant lacquer!.'...... only one slight problem now is if you dont follow the instructions to the letter , your paint will react on itself!... i do powder coat now, or two pack, petrol friendly!!
Thanks Baker Man, I'd rather know now before I put the lacquer on it than when it's finished!
I'll either try out the fuel resistant stuff (on a piece of scrap metal) first or just take the tank to the Body Shop round the corner and ask them to top coat it with 2K - dont fancy poisoning myself...
The frame is painted with cellulose primer and an enamel top coat which I have checked is fuel and heat resistant.
The old rear shocks I have leak, is it worthwhile to strip and repair them with new seals or is it as cost effective to just replace them? I want to use as many original parts as I can.
Sorry for all the questions!
Dave, it would be shame to repaint your work with 2 pack, and expensive as the body shop have to mix a match of yourcolour, maybe they will do the lacquer for you. if my memory is right if you use more than 3 coats of halfords it will react on itself!.... as for your rear shocks leaking ,...i dont know what you have there, but D7 rear shocks dont have oil in them!....cheers, martyn.
Been away for my Stag weekend, so haven't got much done.
I did arrive back to a parcel containing more parts though and my wife-to-be had kindly picked up some box spanners that I had ordered from Screw Fix.
I managed to undo the fork top nuts tonight without having to grind down the box spanner at all - the 11mm one fits perfectly. Big thank you to Iain for this top tip! I got new top bushes through the post so I can start to put the forks back together again now.
I finished painting the brackets that hold the brake pedal and pillion foot rests on, I have bolted this on tonight and trial fitted the brake pedal.
I'm assuming you need to twist the pedal spring around a whole turn to get enough tension in it as it is a bit weak as it is at the moment...
If anyone has a spare spacer that fits between the bracket and frame (as you can see in the above picture) I need one for the other side.
I've also painted the other half of the green tank, not done anything regarding the clear coat yet.
The centre stand is also painted, the spring cleaned up and ready to fit, but I can't until I get some wheels on it!
I now need to get on with the front wheel, I was going to paint the rims black and re-lace the wheels with new stainless spokes. The rims are really rusty though and I think it is going to rust back through the paint in no time which will be annoying if I have spent hours building and truing the wheels. If the cost is not too much, I will get stainless rims as well I think. Can anybody recommend a supplier of stainless rims and spoke\nipple sets?
Thanks Regal Raptor!
A bit more progress today.
I'm going for a trials look for my Bantam, inspired by these guys ** Please log in to view ** so set about modifying the rear mudguard for the larger tyres that i will fit.
I'm not into trashing decent parts for these old bikes, I picked this mudguard up cheap as it had a big split in the bottom (behind where the number plate would mount) a hole between where it mounts to the frame and was pretty rusty underneath, so I didn't mind cutting it up.
The end result,
I'm really pleased with how this has turned out. It's now painted with Kurust awaiting some primer \ filler tomorrow.
I've also picked up some material to make the seat - just need to learn how to sew....
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