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D1 Rebuild by No.6
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Number6
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March 3, 2020 - 1:49 pm
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Can a moderator please edit the topic title, 'cause we've established it is a D1 not a D3? Will be confusing for noobs

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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Number6
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March 3, 2020 - 2:01 pm
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I was also assembling the new handlebars for fit, naturally needed to squeeze a few things in the vice to close up gaps etc.

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IMG_3038.jpg

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The new levers are tapped for M6. Yes really. Was wondering why 1/4 BSF won't go in. So I thought, it's newly made, could it possibly be metric? Yep. M6 went straight in. That's alright, means I can use a couple of my shiny new M6 button head Allen screws http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/imagex/misc/biggrin.gif

 

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Another question – this is what I mean about discovering oddities when you take things apart – the barrel (nipple) on the twistgrip end of the throttle cable is very narrow, only just wider than the slot in the twistgrip, this doesn't seem normal? unsure

OK so the strength needed to pull the slide is not great but even so...

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Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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cocorico
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March 3, 2020 - 2:26 pm
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The lugs on the clutch cable end become worn and allow the end to cant over and jam (especially when you want to remove it). If you lay the bike right over you can get a it a bit more easily.

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Number6
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March 3, 2020 - 4:20 pm
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That isn't what's happening. I can see both lugs correctly positioned, and it's all loose. But it's like the inboard side of the fork has no slot. The nipple wiggles about like it's trapped in a hole on that side. The outboard side lug is free and tries to slide out, but can't because of the other.

Only sensible explanation at the mo is if like the "claws" on that side have closed up...

I think I'm going to have to take the cover off, which I was going to anyway, to try changoing the sprocket.

Press on rewardless.....

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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Number6
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March 3, 2020 - 4:26 pm
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I should add, all the cables are new, or appear new, and never been used (and never been lubricated), so no wear. There's no wear on the clutch cable at the gearbox end. Lots of damage mind you, see photo! http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/imagex/misc/ohmy.gif

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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sunny
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March 3, 2020 - 4:38 pm
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hi  Mike  it look  like  your  cable  Ferraels     90/ 8506   are  too  small   did  you  order  the   corect  P/No

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Number6
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March 3, 2020 - 4:55 pm
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Had to look that up to find out what we're talking about laugh

No they're the originals AFAIK. Certainly look like it.

No it's the handlebar thingies that are sloppy, and not perfectly round. I've closed them up in a vice but can't go too far else can't get the cables thru the slots. They straighten out with a bit of tension on.

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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sunny
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March 3, 2020 - 5:03 pm
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i  think the  fereals   are  about   9  mm   wear  thay  fit  in the  h/bars    yours   look   small     to  me

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March 3, 2020 - 11:52 pm
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This thread is getting far too technical for me..."handlebar thingies"...and No6`s M6`s...that`s pattern metric parts for you I suppose 😉 Hope a bit of jiggery-pokery gets her sorted. What exactly have you been squashing up in the vice?! Will you be buying or making some better ferrules....like these at the top of following link`s thread...or have I got hold of the wrong end of the stick/barking up the wrong tree re what you`re up to?...** Please log in to view **

From memory, and I`ll check tomorrow, my early Bantams sport both arrangements, the plain ferrule and the threaded adjuster...I`ll check which is which if I can get to them in my lock-up tomorrow.

Blue

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Number6
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March 5, 2020 - 1:35 pm
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I've got the correct ferrules, they're the plain ones that just slide in. The handlebars are new, and where the ferrules go in (like a split clamp kind of thing), needed squashing up a bit because the holes were a bit too big otherwise. Just for the record, the original h/bars are bent, gone rusty then painted over with horrible grey paint. Ditto levers. New + levers not that expensive so went with that. http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/imagex/misc/biggrin.gif

No h/bar cable end adjusters on this D1. http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/imagex/misc/biggrin.gif

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Solved the mystery of the clutch cable, by lying on the floor with a torch and a mirror. All it is, two of the "claws" are closed up too tight. Finally got it out with brute force and ignorance (big screwdriver).

The cable is quite mangled, altho the g/box nipple end is perfect, because never been used.

IMG_3040.jpg

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Also "training" the fork gaiters to go over the forks... This is a total barsteward of a job isn't it? http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/imagex/misc/ohmy.gif

IMG_3039.jpg

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Still not convinced I'll be able to get them over the fork tubes.

Incidentally, when I bought it, this was supposedly the only job that needed doing, http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/imagex/misc/boredsmiley.gif

Came with these new ones, what's on there are split to hell and back

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Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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March 5, 2020 - 2:57 pm
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Nasty that cable, looks like it`s been through the wringer 🙁

Used a hot-air gun last year to fit my D3 gaiters, but a hairdryer would be same difference, or hanging them above a radiator or other heat source. I know folk bung them in hot water, which I do for some rubber/plastic components, but water = corrosion in my cautious mind.

Blue

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Number6
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March 5, 2020 - 3:51 pm
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I tried hot water, trouble there is it cools down soon as it comes out and when trying to stretch them over the bottles, in this case. Hair drier, yes you reminded me I got one of those. laugh

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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Number6
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March 9, 2020 - 11:58 am
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How can one tell if the fork springs are knackered? Or are they just not very good? Is it worth getting new ones?

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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March 9, 2020 - 12:10 pm
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Are the springs straight along their length?

Is there any splaying of the springs at the tops/bottoms?

Are they corroded?

Have they worn themselves on the tube inner to end up with squared-off outer profile to spring coils?

Is the bike high mileage, do they look old & tired/ bike been used for off-roading?

Are they both the same length?

How do lengths compare to data for new ones?

Blue

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Number6
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March 9, 2020 - 6:32 pm
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Don't know yet, not had time to have them out. Got sidetracked! laugh

 

Another question: it seems if you get new wheel bearings now they are sealed, and if so you don't need the felt washers?

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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March 9, 2020 - 7:08 pm
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You can still get open bearings, if you want to play olden days grease monkey with the gun 🙂

Preventing ingress of muck from the outside world on the speedo g/box side and brake dust from the drum side, force of habit still has me putting the felt washers back in if they`re there, because I`m like that(belt & braces...but it`s codswallop really),  I needn`t bother because a good sealed bearing does fine on its Jack/Jill Jones.

Blue

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Number6
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March 9, 2020 - 7:28 pm
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OK, having trouble finding the felt washers!

 

Something else – this morning I saw a topic mentioning peg spanner special tool for the hub bearing lock ring, been searching and searching blessed if I can find it now, someone posted a Google search results of lots of peg spanners, can't remember if there was one that fits. (?)

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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Number6
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March 9, 2020 - 8:59 pm
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Welcome to Bodge City! freaked-out_gif

Shoulder nut cut in half ...

IMG_3047.JPG

 

... is lock nut that goes on the inside of this (inboard of fork leg)

IMG_3046.JPG

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That is a new shoulder nut someone's bought. Fortunately I also happen to have a new lock nut to replace the bodge.

 

It continues ...

One reason why front brake is so useless is because the drum is painted on the inside!

http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/imagex/misc/homer-simpson-doh2.jpg

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IMG_3048.JPG

 

It's also quite scabby underneath – any ideas how to clean this up? The friction area I'm mostly interested in.

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Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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March 9, 2020 - 9:10 pm
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Somebody`s compensated for something with that bodge, maybe bearing spacer was a shorter one?

Don`t worry about your felt washers if fitting sealed bearings.... or make some up if it bothers you.

Peg spanner very easy to make, I think I commented on that in ibayorkie`s thread? Just checked...here it is...

"Post 289
February 22, 2020 - 8:16 pm

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You can make a peg spanner without requiring a welder. Luckily there`s loads of ways of making such a tool. Old piece of galvanised water pipe, make a socket type two-pronged doobrywhatsit...here`s some clues :)...** Please log in to view **

...and what else do you require....a thin spanner for axle locknut?

Edit: Even better, just noticed the adjustable peg spanner further down the page on that link. Seen a few tricks with adjustable spanners but not that one before. I suggest drilling holes in fixed and movable jaws and either drive in interference fit pegs/pins, such as masonry nails, or tap out hole and thread in high tensile little bolts with loctite. Cut heads off to reveal shank to fit the locking ring holes. Plenty of options."

Scrape paint off drum with Stanley knife blade or some emery maybe, whatever does the job. Rough shoes up a little, being careful not to breathe in the dust....you know the score. Spin wheel and check drum for ovality while you`re at it.

Blue

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Number6
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March 10, 2020 - 11:12 am
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Thank you for that. Turned out I had saved that link, but in a different place! Not set a watch for the topic tho, have now. BTW that link above as it is (shortened), goes to a Chinese web site!

I was thinking maybe wire wheel – need to buy one first tho ...

More anomalies – Tallguy has just told me his rear stays have arrived and are 385mm between hole centres. That's much more like what mine need to be, instead they are 363mm! These parts must have come from a different bike? The front mudguard stays are being a bit saucy as well. I want to do a test assembly of it all today, to see what's what. Didn't have time yesterday got distracted by wheel hub. The mudguard bolts were all wrong, too big for the holes and stupidly tight, so a bit of a wrestle getting it apart. One of them was too short, so just pushed in "for show", no nut on the other side (one of the fork "ears" bolts).

More anomalies – the 'U' tube over the front mudguard measures 5 3/8" top to bottom, pretty much. Measured across the outsides. However it definitely does not like being placed on the outsides of the lower fork "ears", is enormously stressed like that (bent out). Fits perfectly if placed on the insides of the "ears". I've been looking at other Bantam photos, haven't yet seen any that are like that. The forks are not bent or splayed out. The outer tubes measure as perfectly parallel 98mm, minus a gnat's whisker, top to bottom (between the insides). Makes no sense at all unless the 'U' tube is from a different bike with narrower forks. (?)

Have I got a "bitsa" ?

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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