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taffgmg's D3
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taffgmg
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January 22, 2017 - 12:18 am
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 Newbie question - just assessing what I have got before I make a start.

Could anyone confirm that the headlight switch below is original as I have not seen one from photos I have seen so far. All the photos I have seen show a switch with a 'wing' on that I assume turns left to right. This one goes up and down - bike doesn't run so dont know if it works although it does look as though it has been there some time.

 

DSC_0092.JPG

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taffgmg
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January 22, 2017 - 12:26 am
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Newbie question: Bike I have recently acquired as my first restoration has no rear number plate or light.

From the frame and engine number I believe it is a 1954 D3 direct lighting. A number of components have 'Wipac' written on them. 

What sort of rear light should it have - the circular light with the flat bottom or the elongated one.

Should the number plate have a straight lower edge or the one with a a slight point.

Any thoughts on how to take the twists out of the rear guard - should there be three holes in rear guard.

 

DSC_0106.JPG

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taffgmg
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January 22, 2017 - 12:31 am
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Another newbie question - The D3 (1954) that I recently acquired came with the exhaust in the picture below which looks completely shot.

Would this have been the original style exhaust.

DSC_0103.JPG

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mike p5xbx
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January 22, 2017 - 12:33 am
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somebody has replaced the original switch part that should be under the Wipac plate with a pull type on/off switch
d3.jpeg

is what it should look like underneath

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D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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taffgmg
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January 22, 2017 - 12:41 am
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Newbie question - rather embarressed about my lack of knowledge - strating from a low level but thats why I am doing this.....

Only wiring left on bike is from engine to spark plug. Get slight spark on kickover. Assume once I source a fuel tap cork and can prime carburetter then bike should start if carburetter working correctly withought any other parts of the circuit. Would that be correct.

Once running (hopefully) any way to determine if engine requires further work as ideally do not want top pull it apart unless I really want to. 

Once running I would like to complete the bike, make it safe and use it for a while before spending money on cosmetics and such - especially as this is my first go at restoration - make it useable, enjoy it and then do it up.

Any other advice on what to do and where to start.

DSC_0095.JPG

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Hans Kreuzen
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January 22, 2017 - 1:00 am
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Hi mate, Nice Bantam and it looks like a nice project to get back on the road.

I am pretty sure the muffler should be the  torpedo round type with small fins on the end.

I am no expert on D3's, but I thought that the tank petrol cap was moved to the right hand side in 1954, it might be a 1953?

Try to get the bike's frame number dated by the club, Ones you know the correct date, You can find original pictures and information regarding the number plate and rear Wipac light, (pretty sure it would  be the 3 globes type)

See ya'h Hans

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, 1949 Aus. PMG replica D1 project and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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taffgmg
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January 22, 2017 - 10:23 am
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mike p5xbx said
somebody has replaced the original switch part that should be under the Wipac plate with a pull type on/off switch
d3.jpeg

is what it should look like underneath  

Thanks for the picture - will pull mine apart and see what is underneath - thankyou

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cocorico
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January 22, 2017 - 10:59 am
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taffgmg said
... Assume once I source a fuel tap cork and can prime carburetter then bike should start if carburetter working correctly withought any other parts of the circuit. Would that be correct. 

I would suggest that remove the carb, take it apart carefully to check if it's clean inside. Check the jet is clear and that the recess that the float spindle sits in is not silted up. Then refit it - you can fill it using a small tank (eg lawnmower) for testing. Check that when the points operating arm is on the high point of the cam that the points are open about 12 thou and that they start to open just as the 'bump' of the cam reaches the arm (with the piston on it's way up) - the timing is pretty much fixed anyway, assuming the shaft hasn't moved on the crank (it does happen, but assume the best!).

Then give it a go fingers-crossed

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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February 12, 2017 - 10:36 am
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Hans Kreuzen said
Hi mate, Nice Bantam and it looks like a nice project to get back on the road.

I am pretty sure the muffler should be the  torpedo round type with small fins on the end.

I am no expert on D3's, but I thought that the tank petrol cap was moved to the right hand side in 1954, it might be a 1953?

Try to get the bike's frame number dated by the club, Ones you know the correct date, You can find original pictures and information regarding the number plate and rear Wipac light, (pretty sure it would  be the 3 globes type)

See ya'h Hans  

Thanks Hans - dating officer has confirmed the bike left the factory as a D3 on 1st January 1954 to a dealer called Schofield Goodman.

Cheers Martyn

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