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Colin's D1 rebuild
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larryc
burnley lancashire
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November 2, 2020 - 7:01 pm
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Congrats on the quality of your work, I could never get one to that standard, my steeds tend to be in the oily rag bracket, but roadworthy. looking forward to seeing the finished bike

Larry

D1 plunger, T20 cub, working on a 1955 T20 cub plunger

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cbranni
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November 3, 2020 - 8:16 am
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Thanks Glen and Larry for the comments, not much has been done of late but I did wire up the headlamp and fit the handle bars, lockdown in Wales is over on the 9th so work should resume then but then England goes into lockdown for four weeks so that may affect my rims and spoke order and the chrome, wait and see, stay safe everyone.

Colin

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cbranni
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November 8, 2020 - 10:23 am
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My rims and spokes arrived from Central Wheel on Wednesday afternoon so on Thursday I decided to lace them up, I don't like stainless rims as they, in my opinion have a yellow tinge about them, I much prefer chrome rims but I do use unpolished stainless spokes. When I order spokes I send a sample of each spoke to CWC and they make to my sample what this means is when spoke is fitted there is no spoke protrusion through the nipple which has to be ground off.

My way of building wheels may not be the right way but it's the way I do it, to ascertain which way up the rim goes put a nipple on a spoke and poke it through the hole, push the nipple into the dimple and see where the spoke lies if right it should look like the photo.

rsz_1p1060036-1.jpg

As you can see the rim is the right way as spokes point to the correct circle of holes, I prefer to lace the holes before the keyholes, drop in the inner spokes and connect to rim.

rsz_p1060037-1.jpg

 

rsz_p1060038-1.jpg

Then thread the out spoke up through the hub and connect to rim

rsz_2p1060039.jpg

once all spokes are in on that side tighten the nipples as far as the thread on the spoke and turn wheel over and fit the spokes to the keyholes, this is easy and self evident and again tighten nipples to end of thread. Once all spokes are fitted with the rim sitting on packers to give the offset tighten the nipples equally all round.

Mount the rim in a suitable stand to centralise it, I use a DTI but anything fixed as a guide will do, I am happy if the run out is under a millimetre/.040", you have ignore the weld.

rsz_p1060043.jpg

Before you fit the wheel check if any of the spokes are poking through the nipple if they are file them smooth, don't forget the rim tapes as I have done in the past and fit tyres and tubes also check if tyres have a direction arrow, another mistake of mine which Leon won't let me forget.

rsz_p1060045-1.jpg

Lockdown in Wales ends on Monday so Leon should be with me next weekend to fit the mudguards, tank, seat and any thing else, I am in process of making rear number plate as original was bit tatty, I shall add some photos later.

Take care everyone.

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cbranni
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November 8, 2020 - 1:37 pm
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As I said the rear number plate was very rusty, the top plate was kinked and almost broken away from the number plate rear light was a wreck so something had to be done.

rsz_p1050808.jpg

So I used the original plate as template making it 5mm bigger all round, then made a wooden buck the correct size to form the edges of the number plate on.

rsz_p1060028.jpg

Screwed the sheet onto the buck and hammered out the form, sadly I got so excited it was going so well i forgot to take photos.

rsz_p1060029.jpg

It turned out okay

rsz_p1060031.jpg

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cbranni
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November 8, 2020 - 1:57 pm
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By the time Leon does his paint will be even better.

rsz_p1060032.jpg

The rear light has been tarted up

rsz_p1060024.jpg

I have also nearly completed the wiring, I used the original loom as far as I could before it was beyond repair getting me almost as far as the battery but with some secret jointing it all looks and works okay. All I have left now is the rear light, waiting on mudguard fitting, the brake switch is fitted and it works.

rsz_p1060051.jpg

I am going to use the original number plates but some of the holes need welding up before painting.

rsz_p1060053.jpg

That's all for now.

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Number6
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November 8, 2020 - 10:02 pm
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My way of building wheels may not be the right way but it's the way I do it, to ascertain which way up the rim goes put a nipple on a spoke and poke it through the hole, push the nipple into the dimple and see where the spoke lies if right it should look like the photo.

http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/imagex/misc/th_thumbsup.gif

After trying it many other ways and failing, this, in the end, showed me how they need to fit.

Mike H --

Murphy's 4th law of motion states that any small object that is accidentally dropped will immediately hide itself under a larger object.

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cbranni
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November 14, 2020 - 9:06 pm
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Glad the photo helped you Number 6,

Okay the Welsh lockdown is over so Leon was allowed to visit,  first task was to fit the rear chain, tension and align the wheels that went ok,   then we fitted the front mudguard and stays, rear mudguard, chain guard, petrol tank and saddle, talking of which could some kind forum member tell me the size of a Bantam saddle, the bike had a twin seat when I received it but I fancied putting a saddle on it, purely because the D3 I had when I was sixteen had a saddle, I had a Lycette saddle in the attic and the fixings were in the right place so fitted fine but it just seems a tad on the big side, the saddle I have fitted is sixteen inches across, so is this too big? if so I shall look for the right size saddle.

We did put some petrol in the carb and I kicked it over until I had to sit down but then Leon took over and it started first kick for him and sounded just like a Bantam, high fives all round but no hugging.

The number plates will sorted by next weekend and then it's only waiting for the chrome plating to return, beading for tank, springs for saddle, plunger covers and twistgrip clamp.

I will be sorry to see it finished because I have really enjoyed working on it.

rsz_p1060063.jpg

rsz_p1060069.jpg

rsz_p1060066.jpg

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GlenAnderson
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November 14, 2020 - 11:04 pm
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Maroon has always been my favourite of the factory colours. 

Lovely job. 👍

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cocorico
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November 15, 2020 - 8:03 am
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I agree, looks great. I don't think there is a problem with the saddle, either - have a look at some images of other D1 plungers and it looks fine.

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cbranni
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November 15, 2020 - 10:12 am
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Thank you guys for the kind comments and I am glad the saddle looks okay I shall stick with it, once the chrome parts are fitted I shall post a few more photos of the finished machine.

I will say although I haven't asked many questions the amount of info found on this forum is amazing, answers to anything I wasn't sure of was easily found using the search facility, a lot of knowledgeable people on here, thank you.

Take care all

Colin

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Stoo63
GLASGOW
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November 15, 2020 - 11:02 am
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Been fantastic watching your progress, Colin. You and Leon are certainly a slick team and don't hang about. And what results! Hopefully it runs as sweet as it looks thumbs-up

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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Alan.Moore
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November 15, 2020 - 7:57 pm
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Lovely job Colin.

Good explanation of how to lace the wheels. That is how I do mine. Some suppliers mark the brake side of the rim but others like CW don't.

And a good tip re getting the supplier to match the original spoke length...which of course is only OK if the suppliers pierce the rims as per the original.

Many of the main suppliers go to great lengths to state that their rims are 'replacements' for and not 'replicas' of the original rims. I've had issues in the past when buying rim and spoke sets where some of the spoke sets supplied are way too long and others too short. I guess you have had the same issues?.

I now order the rims first and then use the old spokes to lace up and check the lengths and then order the spokes. Takes a bit longer to complete the job (and a bit more postage) but saves the agony of going round in circles wondering why you've got 10mm of spoke sticking out of one set of nipples' and the others are spot on.

Re the seat the D1 parts books show the single seat as 90-9033 and a check on suppliers says that it is 14 inches wide and 12.5" front to back, which i think is what is described as a small Lycette saddle. I have the larger ones on my Triumphs and Ariel's and that are 16 inches in width.

Again, nice restoration

Cheers

Alan

1939 Ariel VH, 1942 Ariel WNG, 1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird, 1970 BSA Bantam B175, 1980 Honda CB250N, 1986 Yamaha SRX600

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cbranni
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November 17, 2020 - 10:01 am
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Thanks for the comment Alan,

So far I have had no issues at all with CW, but I will say stainless rims are usually in stock but you have to wait for chrome rims and I don't like stainless, it has a yellow tinge and just doesn't look right so I usually have to wait around four weeks but that not an issue just plan other work in.

I will live with the saddle but keep my eye out on my travels for a smaller one, number plates finished this coming weekend and then only the chrome, why is it always the chrome is that's last to arrive.

Kind regards Colin

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rhi010
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November 17, 2020 - 11:27 pm
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Fabulous 👍

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larryc
burnley lancashire
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November 18, 2020 - 1:51 pm
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Just superb in every detail, well done!

Larry

D1 plunger, T20 cub, working on a 1955 T20 cub plunger

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cbranni
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November 19, 2020 - 10:38 am
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Thanks Larry and rh for your comments, both Leon and I enjoyed the build and gave the Bantam our best shot I also hope we have inspired others to "have a go" and see what they can achieve by just trying. As I said earlier the engine was in good nick so simple case of change bearings, seals, hone the bore new rings, clutch plates, chains, ignition coil and it's a runner, sounds fine too, the total cost if anyone's interested including buying the bike will be around £2,000 and it will get ridden, near Swansea where I live is a place called "The Mumbles" it's a seaside sort of place but always a place for motorcyclists to gather on the weekend, the usual gathering of grim faced Harley riders and plastic rocket riders plus me on my old British machines and I will be proud to park the Bantam amongst them.

Take care everyone.

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Aernoe
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December 20, 2020 - 3:29 pm
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Wow, great job - congrats from switzerlandbravo

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cbranni
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December 21, 2020 - 1:20 pm
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Many thanks Aernoe for the comment, the parts I sent away for re chroming will be back this week so after Christmas they will be fitted, lockdown willing I shall place some photos of the finished machine.

Please take care all and enjoy your Christmas.

Colin

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Stoo63
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December 21, 2020 - 5:28 pm
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Great stuff, Colin. You and Leon have done a fantastic (and quick) job. Look forward to seeing the finished article after Xmas. Hope you both enjoy a well-earned break over the festivities,

All the best,

Stewart

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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cbranni
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December 27, 2020 - 10:26 am
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Thanks Stewart, bike should be finished in the next two weeks I hope but maybe the lockdown will be a problem but it's for our own good.

Colin

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