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cocorico D3sa rebuild
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cocorico
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August 1, 2015 - 5:08 pm
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Well, guess what I found in the inlet to the carb this afternoon?

resize-carb-1.jpg

Yes - it's a couple of maggots! Not sure how they got there, but they're out now. Will see if it goes any better now.

I can only think they came via the mower tank I used for test (with no external filter).resize-carb-2.jpg

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1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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Hans Kreuzen
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August 2, 2015 - 12:10 am
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Maggots! wowIt's amazing that it was still running, at least you found the blockage.thumbs-up

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, 1949 Aus. PMG replica D1 project and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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cocorico
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August 2, 2015 - 7:26 am
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Hans Kreuzen said
Maggots! wowIt's amazing that it was still running, at least you found the blockage.thumbs-up

Yes, found the blockage, but it's not playing now. Starts and ticks over, big fat spark at the plug, no excess smoke, but won't rev and bogs down on an open throttle. I'll have the exhaust off next to see if there is now a wasps nest somewhere in there!

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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cocorico
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August 2, 2015 - 2:30 pm
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Well, no wasp nest, so checked the tank and outlet filter for rust - clean as a whistle.

Off with the head to find lots of thick black oily deposits, which wiped off easily. Now, if I kick her over with the head off she makes a noise like a squeaky toy! Methinks one of the seals I replaced was not well done or has subsequently given way (I blame the mechanic), so I reckon it's another engine split - Doh!

At least I know I have a good fat spark and the timing is right, maybe I'll have a go at the D1 engine first as it's already in the engine stand.

Stay tuned for the next (exciting?) episode.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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Hans Kreuzen
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August 2, 2015 - 10:15 pm
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Sorry to hear that, All you needed was your headlight and your done, One step forward, two steps back, Hope you find the problem soon.

Maybe their is a little squeaky chick looking for maggots in the bottom of the casingswow

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, 1949 Aus. PMG replica D1 project and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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cocorico
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August 2, 2015 - 10:27 pm
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Hans Kreuzen said
Sorry to hear that, All you needed was your headlight and your done, One step forward, two steps back, Hope you find the problem soon.

I think you can rest assured that it WON'T be another 2 years before she's on the road!

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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cocorico
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August 5, 2015 - 11:57 am
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Anyone know how to attach audio files?

I would like to let you all hear the squeak toy in my engine - see what you think. Unfortunately I can't load it to here or to Photobucket.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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dimitris
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August 5, 2015 - 12:16 pm
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Bob, you can make it as video, and put it in photobucket 🙂

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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cocorico
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August 5, 2015 - 4:42 pm
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Well I could do - but in doing so, I realise that I haven't tightened down the cylinder head since re-checking the timing (it will be coming off anyway), so it was in fact acting as a reed! embarassed

I suppose I'd better post it anyway, so others can recognise the symptom if it ever occurs to them - not as much work as forgetting the primary chain, though, eh? wink

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1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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cocorico
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August 13, 2015 - 4:36 pm
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Here we go again! Spent a day making another 'improved' engine stand using my 'new' welder (first time I've used one in 30 odd years, so lots of pigeon sh*t), then started opening up the engine. Much easier second time round with all the necessary tools to hand. Now waiting for a shipment from UK, but it will arrive with the Grandkids, so there won't be much progress for a couple of weeks.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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Hans Kreuzen
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August 13, 2015 - 9:57 pm
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Funny you should mention engine stands, I made 3 engine stands out of scrap steel while I am waiting for my crank to return home.

And the difference between a good weld and a bad weld is a grinder.rofl

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, 1949 Aus. PMG replica D1 project and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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cocorico
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August 14, 2015 - 7:52 am
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I tried first with some 1mm thickness tube - blew lots of holes in it, then pulled the 'finished' stand apart with bare hands doh

Still, practice makes perfect, Mk 2 is a lot better.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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dimitris
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August 14, 2015 - 7:58 am
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My next task, will be to learn how to use the welding machine...
Usefull i think...! 

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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August 14, 2015 - 12:04 pm
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cocorico said
I tried first with some 1mm thickness tube - blew lots of holes in it, then pulled the 'finished' stand apart with bare hands doh

Still, practice makes perfect, Mk 2 is a lot better.

Hi cocorico . thin tubing is difficult with an arc welder, a tip is to find a bolt that fits the ID, give it an inch either side of the weld then weld. (inside the tube)

It stops the blow through and strengthens the weld area, especially on a stand....hope-that-helps

Bob

PS like Hans said ...if its a good weld grind it back and it will hide the repair.

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cocorico
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August 14, 2015 - 1:34 pm
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MOSOGER said

Hi cocorico . thin tubing is difficult with an arc welder, a tip is to find a bolt that fits the ID, give it an inch either side of the weld then weld. (inside the tube)

Bob

Thanks for the tip, Bob. Unfortunately it was square section and I don't have any square bolts. wink I found some old steel angle, which I could really give some welly!

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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August 14, 2015 - 3:27 pm
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roflroflrofl A man of your ingenuity can't put a square peg in a round hole...... smile

Luckily I have two welders an oxford oil cooled stick welder and a Mig for the lighter stuff.

I couldn't be without them..... worth investing in a light sensitive helmet, it will save the ark eye.... and I had a few of them.

Avoid galvanised metal welding apparently its bad for you....

Bob.

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cocorico
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August 14, 2015 - 5:50 pm
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Cough, cough...

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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cocorico
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August 22, 2015 - 8:30 am
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I've made these comments on Dimitris' D10 thread, but here goes again.

I feel the problem I now have may be down to my mis-installation of the drive side crankshaft seal. Looking at the stripdown photos I see I made a comment about the ** Please log in to view ** not looking right, so possibly I corrected this 'error' on reassembly (I didn't take a picture, D'oh). This may also be the reason I couldn't fit the shims without everything locking up.

My reasoning now is that a new seal would be able to withstand the pressures of tickover and gentle revving for a short time, but any prolonged use would overcome the lips ability to hold against the pressure. Unfortunately I will have to strip it again to confirm. However, it will come apart a lot more easily and not need so much cleaning, and maybe I can get the shims back in!

Any comments welcome.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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jess steele
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August 22, 2015 - 9:32 pm
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Lips face the oil or pressure, pressure actually makes seal grip tighter.

Crankshaft one looks like it's fitted wrongly to me, you should be able to see the reinforcing spring clearly.

Last but one photo shows seal fitted wrong way round,but either way this will have nothing to do with the shims fitting or not,as the shims run between the shoulder of the crank and the bearing,thus the shims don't touch the seals at all....

hope-that-helps

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cocorico
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August 23, 2015 - 8:02 am
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Jess - yes, I agree; That picture is as was, I replaced the seal in the correct sense (I think) and also referred to 'mybsabantam.weebly D7 engine stripdown / rebuild', which was very clear.

The bearings weren't touched, so I don't see how clearances can have changed?

Perhaps I should duplicate Dimitris' electrical investigations before I split the cases again?

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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