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cocorico D3sa rebuild
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cocorico
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April 8, 2014 - 3:31 pm
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Engine overhaul finally underway with a few surprises as I got further in (though that's no surprise really).

New rings needed as the old ones have a gap of nearly 40 thou. No play on the big end or wear in the bore. At least one flywheel shield looks loose. Clutch plates totally shot.

Question - what should the free length of the clutch springs be?

Pics on ** Please log in to view **

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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cocorico
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June 4, 2014 - 2:54 pm
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Engine rebuild finally underway after too long.

Everything was going OK, new seals fitted, gearbox reassembled (courtesy of ** Please log in to view **).

Today I refitted the crankshaft assembly and started fastening the cases when I realised:

1. I hadn't been taking photographs. embarassed

2. I hadn't fitted the crankshaft shims! doh

My question is - are the shims really necessary? I was going to put them back as they came out, having no idea how to measure the requirement anyway. Plus there doesn't seem to be any lateral play in the shaft.

Advice please. dunno

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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mike p5xbx
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June 4, 2014 - 3:55 pm
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cocorico said
Everything was going OK, new seals fitted, gearbox reassembled (courtesy of ** Please log in to view **).
My question is - are the shims really necessary? />

Hope you noticed the incorrectly assembled Clutch chainwheel spring/kick-starter pinion
in the photos
and yes the shims are necessary the crankshaft end float should be between 0.004'-0.006'

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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cocorico
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June 4, 2014 - 5:00 pm
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Thanks Mike - I guess I knew it would need splitting again, a lot easier second time round.

There seems to be a gearbox problem anyway which I think is down to the gear selector fork (67) not connecting with the gear selector arm (52) correctly - is the arm supposed to be pushed into firm contact with the fork by the action of the spring (64)? This one seems a little slack, though it's only looks a light gauge spring.

Numbers are from the Draganfly site eng and gbox drawing.

At least I can take some photos now!

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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mike p5xbx
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June 4, 2014 - 11:25 pm
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yes it is, there is a write up about the 3 speed selector mechanism / gearbox problems by The Artful Bodger
the whole 9yards worth, as the saying goes
** Please log in to view **

edit
i forgot to add, a few variations on how to measure crankshaft end float
** Please log in to view **
** Please log in to view **

D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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cocorico
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June 5, 2014 - 11:53 am
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bow Thanks again, I've got the 'box stripped again, nothing seems over-worn (though a bit sloppy in places - as manufactured I think). I'll definitely try the washer under the spring cap trick.

More to come .....

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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cocorico
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June 6, 2014 - 2:38 pm
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Well, 'box reassembled and I carefully went through all the gear changes (put some new pics on the Photobucket page) to get comfortable with how the forks need to contact the appropriate area of the selector to work properly.

Certain changes could only be achieved by 'helping' the gear lever, so I guess the return spring needs renewal.

Now waiting for springs (kickstart return as well for good measure) from Rex Caunt, together with a tube of 3-Bond (my 10 year old Hylomar has gone off - can't think why), then it will be another reassembly - this time with crankshaft shims and more photos.

Almost got this engine trained to split on command now!

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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cocorico
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December 14, 2014 - 3:58 pm
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Well at long last I've got back to the Bantam - mainly because the Morinis are in a corrugated barn which is now too cold and dark to work in, whereas the Bantam is in a little shed with light, power and a bench.

I've had to give up on replacing the shims as no combination seems to work (locks up on tightening the cases). Gearchange seems OK on a dry run so I've taken the plunge and assembled the crankcases. Kickstart assembled OK, clutch ditto with new plates, new primary chain and tab washer on crank sprocket.

I've attempted a repair on the broken web in front of the gearbox sprocket using some aluminium sheet and metal putty, will see how it goes.

Waiting for that to cure, then I'll reassemble new drive sprocket, generator, etc.

Plan is to get the engine back in the frame over Christmas and see if she'll run! fingers-crossed

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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cocorico
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February 11, 2015 - 4:55 pm
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After an intervening winter and a bit of poor health the sun has come out and it's warm enough to do some work outside. I checked for a spark on kickover and that seemed OK, so today I filled the engine/gearbox, mixed some 4% petroil and gave it a go. Dimitris, you might want to look away now - sorry - and after about 5 kicks, away she went, as you can see on photobucket (don't know where the baldy bloke came from, but he seemed familiar with it. ** Please log in to view **

Still needs work, new cables and chain for a start, tighten the exhaust nut, etc, but she seems to rev OK, not too much smoke - pretty encouraging on the whole.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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jess steele
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February 11, 2015 - 5:47 pm
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seems to run well cocorico and no smoke either.

I shall find a grey d3 swinger myself one day ? ,i hope...............

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dimitris
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February 11, 2015 - 8:53 pm
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Haha :) five kicks? after rebuild?? You are kidding me right?? I know, i know, "these are very simple engines"...
I have allready destroyed a kick start rubber, and didn't even fire up more than 10 times out-a-here

get-me-coat

Good job there Bob! Keep us updated with pictures and videos!!!thumbs-up

(by the way i didn't know photobucket could host videos!)

BSA D1, 125cc (1952)---BSA D10 Sport 175cc (1967)---Triumph Cub T20 (1960)

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cocorico
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February 11, 2015 - 9:12 pm
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dimitriscy said
Haha :) five kicks? after rebuild?? You are kidding me right?? I know, i know, "these are very simple engines"...

Yes really, a tickle and a couple of kicks - nothing. Strangler on, another tickle and another couple of kicks and away she went - I was amazed. And yes, they are simple engines - as long as everything is 'as built'. Once you can remove your flywheel you can check whether your shaft has moved, or there is a key missing, which could be part of your trouble. fingers-crossed

No problem with photobucket for videos, but a bit slow to upload from deepest France.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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cocorico
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May 21, 2015 - 1:42 pm
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Time for another update. I've been 'on hold' for the last 3 months. I phoned Andy the Chain Man some time back about a replacement chain. He said the originals were now too expensive for him to stock and recommended I use a modern size, especially as I needed a new set of sprockets. He recommended talking to 'Talon Engineering', so I did, ordering a gearbox and final drive sprocket in 420 size for the 1956 D3 Bantam. (end of March)

A couple of weeks later they arrived. G/Box sprock fitted straight on, rear wheel sprock would not fit as it wasn't drilled for rivets and was cut away where they would go. ' That's the only spec we have' I was told, but eventually we sorted out the correct dimensions and a replacement was promised - except I would have to pay first and then they would reimburse the first. A few weeks later the replacement arrived - perfect fit on the carrier, but guess what - they'd machined the teeth for 110044 chain! More discussion and then a lengthy spell of hearing nothing, followed by some more irate discussion! I was then promised the correct sprocket free of charge and a refund for the previous two, could I return the first one as they could resell it please and they would mark the order as urgent. That was 2 weeks ago, today I was told that 'a special takes 3 weeks, so 2 weeks is within our target' - for an 'urgent order'!

I don't expect to see the sprock before mid June, as I'm going on holiday soon. Hope I don't blow a head gasket when it finally arrives!

So, NOT my nomination for 'Good Guys'. Rant over, normal service will be resumed. Now, where are my rivets?

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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cocorico
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June 29, 2015 - 6:03 pm
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So now I have the right sprockets (only took 3 months and three trys and 3 lots of postage ranting).

I thought I'd better look at the forks as I need to replace the gaiters. They came apart easily enough (though it's 30deg C in the workshop at present) and the grease is all cleaned away now, but I am left with two problems.

1 How the ## do I get the old seals out of the carrier to replace them? All I can see is a washer on top of the seals with no apparent means of removing it.

2 The right hand leg has a 'hole' in the top of the rounded dome where the spring screws on, whereas the left hand has a machined stub in there. It looks as if it's there to provide a seat for the rubber 'shock absorber' down the middle of the spring (first hydrolastic suspension?) I'll probably use a conveniently sized bolt unless anyone has other advice.

Those seals are the real puzzle - help! sign-please_gif

Edit - I suppose the 'washer' could be part of the seal and needs to be driven out from the bottom, but I don't want to destroy anything as they are still useable!

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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jess steele
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June 29, 2015 - 8:48 pm
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The seals are made of a soft rubber,so just dig a small screw driver in the seal it's self and plick it out,there is no removable washer in the seal holders..............

hope-that-helps

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cocorico
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June 29, 2015 - 9:20 pm
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jess steele said
The seals are made of a soft rubber,so just dig a small screw driver in the seal it's self and plick it out,there is no removable washer in the seal holders..............

hope-that-helps

Have a look ** Please log in to view ** , then there are 2 more of the seal holder and the missing part if you scroll right. Looks a pretty susbtantial 'washer' to me and would butt up to the bottom bush I think.

Of course, it could be corroded in after a few decades in place.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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jess steele
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June 29, 2015 - 9:33 pm
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I just plicked mine out the d1 and the d5 holders and just pushed the new seals back in,much the same as i do with the early d7 fork seals,as there is no wire in them etc you can't really damage the seals......

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cocorico
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July 24, 2015 - 6:07 pm
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Well, the bike is almost rebuilt, electrics to tidy up and toolboxes to refit, but just about ready for a test run round the hamlet.

** Please log in to view ** she is.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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Piquet
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July 24, 2015 - 9:10 pm
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Road test next

49 year old paint polishes up quite well!

I know the bike is a 'she' but ..........

knocking ten years off her age?

whistle

I'm not a complete idiot ............................................ some parts are missing.

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Hans Kreuzen
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July 25, 2015 - 12:19 am
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cocorico said
Well, the bike is almost rebuilt, electrics to tidy up and toolboxes to refit, but just about ready for a test run round the hamlet.

** Please log in to view ** she is.

Looking good Bob, love the original paint, The big luggage rack must be there to hold all the oily ragsstick-poke_gif

1950 D1 plunger for daily use, Concourse 1948 D1 rigid, 1949 Aus. PMG replica D1 project and a 1949 rigid D1 survivor.

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