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Carl's D7
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Carl
Birmingham
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March 25, 2020 - 8:47 pm
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I do not have the original wires but the 2 wires from the rear light are still there and the 2 wires from the brake light switch are still there and befor I took the old loom off they both worked but with the ignition on without engine started so it was changed to work this way.  I would prefer it to be the original way for this will I have to connect the 6 wires.......  So 1 from main loom to brake switch then 1 from main loom to rear light then the other from brake switch to rear light. I just have to figure out which wire is which from the twin element bulb. 

Thanks 

Carl

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Sprung Chicken
Glasgow,Scotland
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March 30, 2020 - 11:52 pm
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carlg92 said
Hi thanks for the advice. today I got the bike running all okay appart from it will not idle. I did play around with the 2 adjustment screws but which1 does which. I have some wires for the lights but from the home made previous wiring it will need changing. 20200325_152934.jpgso here I have in the pic above the new loom (black and brown wire) which are for the brake light switch and rear light but the old wiring has 2 wires for both  black and yellow is for brake light switch and blue and brown is for rear light also there is aa earthed wire on the rear coming from in the light. should I just run 1 wire to the bulb and earth the other to the frame. Also I have 2 spare wires coming from tthe fused part of the loom 1 is red and 1 is brown but it does not say this on the diagram that came with the new loom. Thanks   

Carl, I've just got a new loom for my B175 that has those 2 extra wires not on the diagram. Had puzzled me too but it could well be that they are for connecting an accessory or more likely, a battery charger for charging with battery in situ.

There was also replacement wiring for the horn/dip switch, rear light and brake switch. If you have those items, I would use them and get rid of the remaining old wires. The earth wire from rear light, cut off the bullet connector, fit an eyelet and secure it on one of the rear light studs using the washer and nut .

You say the engine will not die, it should stay running until you switch off the ignition, unlike the earlier Bantams where you closed the throttle and the engine will falter then stop.

Dougie;Glasgow ;Scotland.
1955 D1, 1970 B175

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Carl
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April 10, 2020 - 7:31 pm
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so I have my d7 running good. my next issue is the rear light and horn as I do not need the bike started to get them working I thought I'd have a go at these first. I've changed the wire from the main loom to the rear light that came with the new loom also got a new rear light assembly so I connected it up (brown wire)  and nothing. But when i connect the earth from the light to the negative side of the battery it works im not sure if this is the way it should be. but If I connect it to the normal light (black wire) to the same place it does not work .  i followed the diagram that comes with the loom is there something I'm doing wrong here or should the earths be connected to the negative side of the battery. Also this is the same for the horn. I thought that the earth would go to the frame which is the positive side of the battery.20200410_184607_copy_600x1268.jpg20200410_184643_copy_477x1008.jpg

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Carl
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April 10, 2020 - 10:49 pm
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My mistake i have blown the fuse from messing around with the crocodile clips oops 😬 

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Carl
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April 27, 2020 - 8:33 pm
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20200427_195033_copy_600x1268.jpgSo over the last few weeks I have got the d7 all wired with a big thanks to this club and all the info on here. 

I do have a couple of issues the headlight and rear light does not work when engine is on so for the little ride I had today I connected the headlight into the speedo bulb and this works as well as the rear light only with the switch on H.  

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April 27, 2020 - 10:09 pm
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I see from the diagram you have there, that the horn button wire is Billy No-mates, but if you look at the diagram online or in the manual, it shares the dip-switch, so obviously both headlamp bulb filament wires go to that same switch. Is this the setup you have on your handlebars?

I`ve always used these diagrams... ** Please log in to view **  (yours is 5th one down), to wire up my Bantams and not had any layout bother. Only problem once came from crowded situation in the headlamp shell, dislodging switch socket when the headlamp unit met resistance as I pushed it into place, a problem also mentioned by someone else on here recently. I`ve not had to chop`n`change with wiring, apart from Trials bike and then just kept it simple.

Checked your layout within, and the 4 colours to, your gen, and they look in order. Did see some twin-core domestic lighting flex kicking about and an eclectic range of connector types....have you tidied these up yet? 

Blue

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Carl
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April 27, 2020 - 11:12 pm
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Yes I did get that type with horn and dip as a single unit and wired the billy no-mate into it and works fine aswell as the hi-lo (I can't tell the difference in brightness)  also I did have that problem with the H/L switch socket dislodge itself.  I sorted the twin core and changed it with the new i got with the new loom. I have also put individual earths from the headlight and rectifier to main earthing point on thee frame. 

I also have a couple of oil leaks one from the front sprocket which is clean oil and on the opposite side dripping from the kick starter is black oil plus the kick-starter doesn't return very well and is the non folding kick from factory. 

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April 27, 2020 - 11:28 pm
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Hopefully a new seal and gaskets will cure your final drive side  leak, as shown here...other suppliers of parts are available...** Please log in to view **.

Oil leak will appear black from the kickstart shaft wearing a little alloy off the casing hole. Maybe your kickstart return spring is tired.       ** Please log in to view **

Also check gearchange shaft isn`t bent, it can happen if bike`s fallen over at some time during its life.

 

Blue

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Carl
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May 20, 2020 - 10:37 pm
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So after a couple of small rides with a intermittent clutch I decided to remove clutch cover to find this....20200520_221528_copy_600x1268.jpg20200520_221758_copy_600x1268.jpgI i couldn't believe my eyes. 

After removing the opposite side to find the rubber bush missing where the ball bearing and push rod goes i thought there must be something wrong. Now after removing all of this I have noticed the oil seal behind the flywheel is leaking. 

Should I just replace all seals. Is there any other things I should look out for. 

As for the kick start spring its not very springy and looks different from the pictures I've seen is there supposed to be a loop on the end. 

20200520_223437_copy_800x379-1.jpgthe only damage I can see is the big circlip and the outer plate that sits over the clutch basket should i replace this. 

Thanks

Carl 

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Carl
Birmingham
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June 1, 2020 - 9:40 pm
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So i have the clutch back together. I used a 3 legged puller. I cut 2 halfs of exhaust clamps as the spacer and a big washer on top to compress the springs.  all went perfectly but i did forget the mushroom clutch push rod at first. So had to do it twice. heres some pics......  

20200601_094136_copy_600x1268.jpg20200601_094113_copy_600x1268.jpg20200601_094106_copy_600x1268.jpg

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June 1, 2020 - 10:40 pm
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Sorry Carl, missed your May20th post, must have been buried beneath other postings fast, or one of my away days.

 Looks like you`ve sussed it. Nice work with the three-legged puller, I never had much luck using mine for the clutch, so have always used a modified two-leg compressor...or someone & their size 10 boot heel.

Yes kickstarter spring should have retaining loop, surprised it`s stayed in place. Unless there`s another type I`ve never seen...but looks like someone`s giving it a bit of a bend to help keep it in place...so far.

You can remove outer crank seal by drilling two opposing holes and screwing in self-taping screws and it`ll just pull out. If you`re lucky, both bigger inboard seals will still have a bit of life left in them. Don`t forget to use a proper flywheel extractor, crank is too much at risk to try any Heath Robbo method of removal.

Blue

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Carl
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June 1, 2020 - 11:05 pm
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I would have been lost without all the help. I habe replaced the kick-start sping I am just waiting for the seals and gaskets to arrive for the sprocket shaft. 

I have this wipac flywheel coils and points spare with the bike but cannot find any that look similar maybe somebody could tell me. 

20200510_200346_copy_600x1266.jpg20200510_200341_copy_600x1266.jpg

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June 1, 2020 - 11:24 pm
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Hopefully someone like Sunny will be along to shed light on it? Wouldn`t surprise me if he has a Wipac  book with all the model numbers in it, including for mowers etc, not just bike applications! Is there a model number...and have you googled it yet?

If no luck, then checking wiring diagrams with those four wires(if original), of orange, purple,white and brown, may net something from the Net, if you need the info to place it up for sale? 

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Carl
Birmingham
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June 4, 2020 - 4:54 pm
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I am still waiting for the final drive shaft seal so could anybody tell me where does the rubber bush go is it between the engine chasing and the clutch swirl thing on the long rod . Thanks 

IMG-20200503-WA0010_copy_800x379.jpeg20200509_134403_copy_800x379.jpg

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sunny
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June 4, 2020 - 5:10 pm
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p/n   90/ 132  slides  along  the  long  cluch  pushrod     very  nice    ,. i carnt  remember  from  wot   the  H T set  is form  the  points  are  common to  mowers    

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Carl
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November 3, 2020 - 11:22 pm
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To anyone that can help! 

I sent my S55 1704 unit with 3 coils to get the lighting coils replaced by George at villiers parts. I recieved it today and reassembled it. I checked for spark as it was abit late to start the bike but there's no spark in I position so I switched it to E and I have a good spark just using my hand on the kick start  befor I sent it off it was fine apart from the headlight and tail light being ran from the speedo light feed as this works without the engine started. If anybody has any idea what the problem might be. 

There is 1 thing when I got it back the wire from the condenser was connected at the back side where moving side of the points are held on where as befor it was connected to the front side. 

Befor and after pics 20200930_221634-1.jpgIMG-20201103-WA0002-1.jpeg

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stubaker58
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November 4, 2020 - 7:05 am
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Hi,

that looks like a great refurb. I assume you’re running a separate coil (under the seat?), if so it is battery dependent so starting with the simple things have you checked the battery? The emergency start setting is designed to enable the bike to start when the battery is flat, it puts all the power to the coil so, if the battery is flat, it seems to be doing its job!

regards

“There’s nothing new under the sun”.

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cocorico
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November 4, 2020 - 7:21 am
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If you have a meter, or a battery and light, you can check continuity between front and back of the pillar. Or you could change the lead back to as it was.

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sunny
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November 4, 2020 - 8:29 am
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please  read  Ducon switch  tips      as    some  one   thinks    the  new  loon  is  incorrect   [ no so ]   just  been  bugered  ,.,. its not  a good job   just   a  clean up  ,   he  has  crosed    the   wiers   from  post  2 & 3 &  brun them  over  the top &

 [ shud  come from below ] &

as you  say  fited    the  condener  wier  to  the backside      of  the faceplate ,.,.    did   you   work out  the  1704  wiering   and   charge  and  fit the 

batery   the  right   way  round     [     POZ  Earth ]   you   will see  all  earth   wiers    are   the  same  coller   at  each  earth  point     

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Stoo63
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November 4, 2020 - 9:13 am
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Phone George and ask what's happened? 

 '55 D3 Battery; '58 Square Four (project); '59 D1 direct lighting plunger; '59 Tiger Cub; '60 5TA;  '76 FS1-E; '91 GTR 1000;  '97 Honda Sky SGX50.

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