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Carl's D7
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Carl
Birmingham
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October 2, 2019 - 8:12 pm
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Screenshot_20191002-201632_Gallery.jpgSo I purchased a bargain 1966 BSA bantam d7, that's what the logbook from 1994 says. 

I have sent the logbook to dvla. Hoping for me to be the new owner "on paper" in a few weeks time. Saving me the hastle re registering it ect. 

The frame number is 48458. But on the logbook it is d748468. Also logbook says colour is blue. What are my chances of getting the new logbook without having to re-register it. 

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carpetralph
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October 4, 2019 - 6:37 am
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Welcome. I like those D5 andD7 tanks with the pear shape badges. This is another "new" bike with a thick seat (see "Newbie" on this section). Not knocking it, looks very comfortable, I wonder where they are coming from, or what they are off.

Someone has obviously mis read the frame number at some time. Unless you have already amended the logbook before sending it away I wouldn`t mention it. A similar thing happened last year to a friend who bought an old ford pick up truck from the early sixties, it had been in the village where he lives from new, with the one owner, but had never been on the DVLA computer it had been off the road parked up for that long. He had the old buff logbook and sent it off to get a  new registration document and the DVLA insisted on an inspection, during which it was discovered that the old buff logbook only showed the last 6 digits of the vin number, the first 4 letter digits had never been recorded. They were therefore refusing to accept that it was the same vehicle and were wanting to give an age related number.

Is it already down as "Historic" on the logbook, if not you will need to get that changed anyway or pay road tax, and at the same time complete an "Exemption from MOT" form.

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swalsh58
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October 4, 2019 - 8:28 am
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If you have sent off the log book to just have you shown as the new registered keeper then it won’t be an issue. It may we’ll come back with Historic shown as the taxation class. If it doesn’t, get that changed first. Changing colour also should not be a problem, but there may be when it comes to the different frame numbers. We all know that there has obviously been a transcription error when the records where digitised, and the owner at that time has missed it. If you get a ‘Jobsworth’ pick up the application when you send it in, they will reject it immediately. If you get a sensible person and you explain things properly, you may be okay. When you do tell them about it, send a letter with your application and include pictures of the number. It helps if you grovel a bit, they like that, plenty of please and thank you’s, and could you help etc. 

If you have sent it in to change the registered keeper AND the colour AND the taxation class AND the frame number I think you will be rejected. If it is, get in touch with me before you respond to DVLA. Bear in mind they will retain the log book you sent in if they reject your application.

Good Luck!

Current bikes......1958 D5,  and a 76 Honda C90 in the workshop.

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Carl
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October 4, 2019 - 10:07 pm
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Thanks for the guidance. Befor I bought the bantam I didn't know a thing about them but since hours of research on the forums here I've learnt quite alot so far. So I just need luck on my side with the v5c returning in my name. I have only sent the bottom part of the old v5 to change the registered keeper as I do like to do one thing at a time. here's a pic of the old logbook I still have. 

I had a little look over the bike today. Everything is freely moving and lubed. Tank had rusty fuel In it with the filter covered In rust flakes same as the filter inside the banjo on the carb. Electrics are a mess connectors everywhere some connected some not, both in the battery tray area and under the headlight. As soon as I have the v5c in my name and the tax and mot exemption I will be tackling these with the help from this club. 

Engine number - FD77938                                              frame number - D748468 (logbook) 48458(frame) 

 

15702192146708120207173184862946.jpg

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cocorico
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October 5, 2019 - 7:53 am
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If the inside of the tank is rusty, it might be worth giving it a clean (together with the filter(s) and carb) while you're waiting for DVLA. I think there is lots of info on FAQs - I use cheap white vinegar for tank cleaning.

It looks like you have a Bantam which has stayed on home territory for all it's life - I was born in Handsworth, but have wandered a bit (as has my D3).

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Carl
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November 8, 2019 - 12:36 pm
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So finally got the v5c in my name. I called dvla 4 weeks after sending off the old old logbook they told me theres was no notes or a current owner for that vehicle so she told me to send off a v62 and do a historical tax change when at the post office with a v112. The post office lady couldn't change the historical tax class because the v5 was not in my name. But when the v5c came I sent it off with v112 and changed the colour. While waiting for that I de-rusted fuel tank, cleaned carburetor with new gaskets. Put the new battery in was shocked to see the lights worked including the brake light. Took the spark plug out to check for spark there was nothing. Cleaned the points with some dry wet and dry. Still no spark. Cleaned main trans loom wires to earth point as well as the rectifier earth to find a broken wire (WHITE) looking at a wiring diagram seeing that it goes to the points getting my hopes up after a quick repair. No spark. Any ideas where to start to find out what's the problem. Screenshot_20191108-124053_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20191108-124103_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20191108-124045_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20191108-124036_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20191108-123045_Gallery-1.jpg

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mikef
Chatham Kent
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November 8, 2019 - 3:45 pm
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Hi Carl.
     Well, we don't have a lot to go on to be honest. Looking at your photos, it's a 1966 D7 twin switched.
The fuel tank is from an earlier D7 and the fact that the lights work from the battery is suggesting that the wiring, or part of it is from the single switched D7.
Those block connectors on the wiring suggests that some mods have been done. I see a separate ignition coil hanging on the frame.
Do you know how it is wired? Have you ever seen it run in it's present state.
Sorry to ask so many questions but we really need to know exactly what you have.
A photo of the generator stator would be a start. The twin switched and single switched generators were very different.
On a 1966 D7 the headlight should only work with the engine running.
Regards.

       Mike.

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Carl
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November 8, 2019 - 4:44 pm
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Okay I dont really have much knowledge on electrics but from the wiring diagram I can see on the bike that the wires are correct by colour up to certain points like the rear lights and the rectifier and a couple of mods behind the headlight. Both switches do work aswell as the switch on the bars.

I have not seen the bike running but was told by the previous owner it ran befor it was garaged around 10 years ago. IMG-20191029-WA0027.jpegScreenshot_20191108-163950_Gallery.jpg

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Sponge
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November 8, 2019 - 5:40 pm
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No spark - either a failed component or a bad / wrong connection - but which one - suggest start at one end and work your way through it methodically. 

There area a couple of wires hanging out of the generator bottom left - what are these ? Not normal to see wires there so they may be significant   

Also the points seem to be 'on the cam',  but the contacts themselves do not seem to be open -  a trained, expert, eye could probably solve this in a few minutes. I would suggest inviting another club member over to have a look.  

Regards

Sponge

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cocorico
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November 8, 2019 - 6:06 pm
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As a start, I'd suggest you disconnect  the front and rear of the loom from the ignition system and battery, then connect the battery through a simple switch and fuse to one side of the coil, the other side of the coil to the points. Then if you switch on and kick over you should get a series of healthy sparks from the plug. If you haven't a handy switch, use a croc clip or something you can disconnect quickly, just in case. If you get no spark, you need to check the points, spark plug, plug connector, HT cable. If you get a spark, you can then reconnect the loom and see if you still get a spark. If not, check the loom and especially the switch on the headlamp. You don't need to connect the rectifier yet, as there should be plenty of charge in the battery. Once it's running you can reconnect the generator, though I would change that old Selenium rectifier for a modern Silicon one. Might be worth considering a rectifier / regulator and even a conversion to 12V negative earth - the information is on the forum. hope-that-helps

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mikef
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November 9, 2019 - 7:09 am
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I can see from the photo of the generator that it is the correct one for a twin switched D7. Which is good news.
In the first instance I think Concorico's suggestion is good to test the ignition components.
Long term I think your best option is to replace the wiring loom, new ones are available. Your existing loom has obviously been modified and has many suspect connections.
The headlight on a twin switched D7 is powered directly from the generator and will only work with the engine running.

Regards
     Mike.

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Carl
Birmingham
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November 9, 2019 - 7:24 am
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I'm thinking about getting a new loom would this make it more simple and if I was to convert it to 12v at the same time will I have to modify any wires or is it as simple as switching some wires to different places. 

The wires hanging out the bottom left are where i think a horn was connected directly to the battery as the wires on the main loom for the horn (violet) are disconnected both behind headlight and down by the battery holder also the speedo bulb was not connected aswell as the earth. 

 

Thanks for the guidance and advice. I will be buying a new loom but still deciding on 12v conversion I may run it 6v see how it goes then decide. Can anybody tell me which loom I need. 

Carl 

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mikef
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November 9, 2019 - 8:17 am
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You have many choices.
As your bike is not running, the ignition components are unknown, the wiring loom is probably beyond repair and you want to convert to 12V. It maybe worth considering a CDI system. Expensive but reliable and gives you new components. I have included a link below to the Electrex World version, there are others, Bones for example.

** Please log in to view **

If you want to keep the existing electrics and fit a new loom then these are available from many sources, I have included a link to one on e-bay as an example. See below.

** Please log in to view **

To modify the existing generator to run 12V is not too difficult but you will need to purchase a rectifier/regulator and you will lose the benefit of the emergency ignition function.

Just some ideas.
                 Mike.

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sunny
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November 9, 2019 - 10:45 am
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it  looks  like  the lose  of  spark   is  down  to the   batery , points & coil wiering   ect   <<  its   nice  to  see   the  correct   cam   ,points  &  wiering  loon  # harnes  even  if  the   it  has  been  cut  about    ,,  NONE   OF  the   3   difrant    wiering   loons / harness    fited  to   the   D 7  modle s     LETS    the  HEADLAMP   lite up    UNLESS   the  engin    is  RUNING      the   only   thing s  i  change   is  the  wypac  HT  coil   to  a 6  volt   J A P  coil    &  rectyfier  from  a  honda   or  alike  any  uther    upgrade       is  unnesasery    its   how   pepal   servis  the  sistem   that   maters     so  have fun     &   keep  the  teapot  going   &   if   your   keeping   to   the   2  swich   wypac   sistem    you  MUST     get  the   CORRECT     LOOM /HARNES  or mack  one     as  i always   do    without   an  E start  on it   

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Carl
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March 24, 2020 - 3:20 pm
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Hi, I've been getting abit done to my bantam very slowly ive managed to get a new loom on but I have a question about the rectifier/regulator. I have the lucas loom and is a twin switch d7 dont know which connections go where. I have not tried to start the bike yet hopefully will get it going in the next few weeks. 20200324_135957_copy_480x1014_copy_240x279.jpg

If anybody could tell me which goes where I have a white orange and red and the earth is going to stay as is. Cheers. 

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sunny
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March 24, 2020 - 3:49 pm
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 you  shoud  have  prined  marks  around its  edg  also paper   instrutions  if  new   ,. the  poz post   is    usly  the  odd one   out ,.  the photo  is  showing   a   rectifier  i  woud  think    look  for   I/D  

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sunny
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March 24, 2020 - 4:19 pm
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your new  loom  shoud     mimic     page  84  in  the Haynas   Manual      it  may  have  one  more  wier   not  shown

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mike p5xbx
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March 24, 2020 - 6:02 pm
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No Spark
first thing I do is make a circuit like below which eliminates the bike wiring
so the only parts that could be causing the problem are
dirty points, condenser, spark plug, HT cap, HT lead or ign coil
In order of checking/replacing

simple-ign.jpg

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D? - D10- D14 Bantams 350 AJS -500 Triumph http://bsanotru.....lfire.com/

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cocorico
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March 24, 2020 - 8:39 pm
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From the look of your picture, you only have a rectifier, which changes the ac volts from the generator to dc volts. These dc volts will vary with engine speed. That can give problems with overcharging the battery and blowing bulbs. If you follow mike p5xbx's post you should be able to get the engine running. Then you can think about how best to proceed.

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Carl
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March 25, 2020 - 4:50 pm
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Hi thanks for the advice. today I got the bike running all okay appart from it will not idle. I did play around with the 2 adjustment screws but which1 does which. I have some wires for the lights but from the home made previous wiring it will need changing. 20200325_152934.jpgso here I have in the pic above the new loom (black and brown wire) which are for the brake light switch and rear light but the old wiring has 2 wires for both  black and yellow is for brake light switch and blue and brown is for rear light also there is aa earthed wire on the rear coming from in the light. should I just run 1 wire to the bulb and earth the other to the frame. Also I have 2 spare wires coming from tthe fused part of the loom 1 is red and 1 is brown but it does not say this on the diagram that came with the new loom. Thanks 

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