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BSA D1 bobber build
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cooperman
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February 17, 2016 - 9:40 pm
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I finished off fitting the seat today, I was awaiting for the mounting brackets to come for the US and they turned up today, trouble was they looked way to big and didn't fit the look of the bike.

So i used the springs that I already bought and just twisted one of the ends so it fits the original mounting point, really happy with the look!

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One on the left has the ring bent to fit the original mount.

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Fitted on the frame

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At full compression

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All fitted

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Bournemouth Bantams
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February 17, 2016 - 10:45 pm
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I like the look but going over a bump could lead to worn out jeans, your backside looks a bit close to the tyre, especially if you are fitting a rear mudguard.

Not sure of the roadworthy issues if you don't, I do know there is no legal requirement to have a front one as my Trail Bronc does not have one, nor a chain guard, lights or a speedo.

DSCN2824-1.JPG

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cooperman
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February 18, 2016 - 4:47 pm
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Hi, I checked with my local mot station and as long as there is not original mounting points showing your fine to run without a rear mudguard and that's my plan anyway.

The picture is on max compression both on the seat and the plungers but your right it is close! 

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cooperman
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March 8, 2016 - 7:51 pm
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I have been off this week so have been able to attack the bobber, been doing a lot of the small tiding up jobs before I strip the bike down ready to paint the frame.

New fitting bolt and washer for the seat Spring

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Cardboard template for the rear light and number plate

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Bracket fitted with light unit mocked up.

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Bracket painted and fitted

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New cut down chain guard

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proflex
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March 9, 2016 - 5:26 pm
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Hi Cooperman, Glad to see your bobber pics , and find it quite rehreshing that some one else is building something different

I to have built a bobber / flat traker style D1 using Bates /Harley sprung saddle , 350/19 rear tyre, D3 Forks etc,  but with a Honda

CG 125 engine and am really pleased with result will try and post pics  on forum when I can sort pic sizes out,

This is the 2nd special the other is old school style D1 with Honda Twin 125 engine,

I know not everyones taste but I enjoy constructing something different.

good luck with project  & look forward to seeing it finished.

Ed.

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flintdog
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March 9, 2016 - 5:49 pm
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looking good i am glad i am am not the only 1 makeing as i wont it i think there is a few out there that think we should not do it i have 2 started a new build useing a ridged and honda engine

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cooperman
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March 13, 2016 - 10:11 pm
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I probley was abit optimistic trying to get the bobber's frame repainted in a weekend, But I did manage to get most of the frame finished and some new parts fitted.
The main Issues I had were:
Side stand needs longer engine bolts to fit now ordered.
I need to make a spacer tube to stop the brake pedal moving now the centre stand is removed, tubing on order.
throttle cable/or throttle is wrong, new throttle ordered.
On the plus side front pads were fitted and the brake is connected and works so is the clutch cable.
Still got a lot of tidying to do but if all goes well I may be able to have my first ride this weekends! Fingers crossed!

The frame stripped ready for paint.
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Painted in Matt black
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New front brake shoes fitted
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Front wheel fitment
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As he stands at the moment
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Close up of frame
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cooperman
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March 20, 2016 - 8:29 pm
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Well it's one step forward the two steps back, I got the bike all back together with all the new parts I needed, I put fresh oil in the gearbox fitted the chain and I was ready for my first ride.
He started second kick and sitting on him I tried to engage first gear and boom he shot forward and stalled, I adjusted the clutch cable and tried it again and the same thing he stalled as if there wasn't a clutch.
I took the decision to remove the cover and see what was going on with the clutch, taking off the cover the first issue I saw was the primary chain had way to much movement in it, once I got the clutch out the problem became obvious all the friction plates and clutch plates was seized together!
I have new friction plates on order and I'm going to clean up the clutch plates, I need to check the play on the clutch housing as there is a brass washer that needs replacing if there is play.
I will have to take the engine back out to fit the clutch back as the 6 springs are a pain to fit back with the engine in the bike (I spent an hour trying with no luck)! Fingers crossed I get a chance to ride him next weekend!

The custom made spencer that replaces the centre stand and allows the brake pedal to be in the correct position as I now have a side stand fitted

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Chain on and fits ok!

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Clutch plates had seized together after 40 years of standing.

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How he standing at the moment awaiting new primary chain friction plates.

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cooperman
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April 6, 2016 - 8:53 pm
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Well 6 hours spent on the old man today, I am now a expert at fitting and removing the clutch as I had to do it 3 times due to issues! I still seem to have a issue where the clutch doesnt seem to engage and from the drive sprocket, the clutch has a adjuster but as I've never had one working I'm a bit lost on where to start from! I have a video below if anyone can help!

The new engine chain fitted

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Would anyone be able to tell me if this looks like the correct amount of movement for a BSA D1 clutch?

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I can now use the carb float cable adjuster to help make him ideal as they never came with a ideal value, I found this out as it was set all the way closed and it to me a hour to work out why he wouldn't start!!

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flintdog
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April 6, 2016 - 9:03 pm
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i wonder how many no which way the king link fits or no can b wrong way around 

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cooperman
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April 6, 2016 - 9:51 pm
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flintdog said
i wonder how many no which way the king link fits or no can b wrong way around 

The king link is in the same position as the original that came off, also it's facing the motion of travel which bike chains recommend to be fitted that way round. 

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flintdog
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April 6, 2016 - 9:58 pm
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ya spot on just wondering how many now it

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cooperman
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April 6, 2016 - 10:06 pm
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flintdog said
ya spot on just wondering how many now it

Wish I was as acknowledable regarding why the clutch doesn't work! 🙁 

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flintdog
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April 6, 2016 - 10:33 pm
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so is the clutch not working when u pull clutch in can u see the plates open 

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Bournemouth Bantams
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April 6, 2016 - 10:53 pm
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cooperman said

flintdog said
ya spot on just wondering how many now it

Wish I was as acknowledable regarding why the clutch doesn't work! 🙁 

You are not showing the outer cover on the clutch assembly which is held in place by the tree studs is this not fitted so the clutch is easier to see.

The first thing to check is that there is a 1/4" ball in the scroll mechanism, this can only be fitted by removing the adjuster screw first.

From the pictures of the clutch adjuster scroll mechanism it looks like you are the dished cover plate missing. the clutch is adjusted by loosening the lock nut tightening the screw until resistance is felt then back off the screw until there is a 1/8" of free play at the lever and lock with the lock nut.

If the clutch is still not working then it could be ware in the scroll mechanism, when full adjusted if you can pull the adjuster screw in and out laterally more than around 1/16" then there is ware in the scroll this ware is taken up when you pull in the clutch not leaving enough movement to free the clutch. When the outer cover disc is in place this often manifests itself as a locking of the clutch lever.

The only real solution to this problem is to replace the aluminium scroll housing with a better one, the steel actuator arm very rarely has much ware, which is a press fit in the outer cover. At the moment only second hand units are available I am looking at producing new housings but finding an engineering company that has the skills to produce them at a sensible price is not easy.

Howard  

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Iain
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April 7, 2016 - 12:47 pm
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It could also be the usual clutch cable problem. Most cables you can buy have the outer about 1" longer than it should be, the result is that when you fit the cable you can't get the pushrod or free play adjusted properly.

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cooperman
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April 10, 2016 - 5:25 pm
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Well so today I finally got to ride the old man!!!!! The clutch seemed to be fine just a bit of drag on it but nothing some fine tuning won't sort out.
I managed to take him up and down my road, got into all 3 gears, it is a different experience riding a bike with gears and this was my first time of doing so!
He seems pretty quick also!!!
So the next step is to book my cbt so I can get him out on the road for real, I also need to wire in the lights, I think I am going to use a stand alone setup using a 9v battery as realistically I'm not going to be using him at night but would be good to have the lights just in case.

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flintdog
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April 10, 2016 - 5:32 pm
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will u not need any mudgaruds 2 ride on road 

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cocorico
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April 10, 2016 - 6:20 pm
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cooperman said
... I also need to wire in the lights, I think I am going to use a stand alone setup using a 9v battery as realistically I'm not going to be using him at night but would be good to have the lights just in case.

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If you go for LEDs, use a small 12V gel battery. I have a similar set up on my D3, current drain is only a couple of hundred milliamps on 'headlight' (for visibility rather than illumination), so you would have a reasonable duration between charges.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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Redlig
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May 30, 2016 - 11:04 am
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Bike looks sweet! I have a similar project of my own:) put up a driving video so we can see it being driven:)

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