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BSA D1 bobber build
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cooperman
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August 31, 2015 - 6:22 pm
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And so it begins!! After building a few Mobylette mopeds I thought it was time to do a bigger bike so please let me introduce you to my freshly collected D1 (now named Rusty) which has been sitting in the sellers garage for the last 40 years!

The frame numbers puts him as a 1952 and the engine is 1950, the bike had no documents so getting a dating certificate will be one of the first jobs on the list.

The guy I bought it off was mighty impressed I intended to fit it in the panda but with the wheels removed he fitted and I didn't need to leave the wife behind! 🙂
I have gone over him quickly and there are a few parts missing but nothing big, the kick starter and gear shifter pedals are both missing so I can't check for compression but there was clean oil in the gearbox!
His abit heavier then a moby and it's going to be a big project, I will be looking at doing a little bit each moth as I can't afford another massive build this year!  

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flintdog
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August 31, 2015 - 6:39 pm
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its a good start planty 2 get on with

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Mags 1
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August 31, 2015 - 10:05 pm
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Go faster silencer-to boot!wink

Four now on the road and at least several in bits.

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Maddog Leary
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September 1, 2015 - 1:35 am
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Love it! your first pic takes me back to when I picked up my old girl......  The blokes at the shop laughed when Dad told them we were going to shove it in the back of his Ford Granada estate.......

MD clapthumbs-uprofl

Maddog - 56 Swingarm D3 Major -  Major Works in progress! Machine is fighting against me every which way!

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cooperman
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September 3, 2015 - 8:33 pm
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Thank you guys, had a bit of a better look round the bike today.  He looks in really good shape just in the need of a bit of love and tax. One thing I did notice is there are no clear wires coming out of the mag for lighting, it runs a wicopacy set up which I am guessing is a direct feed for the lights, on my moped the lights took a direct 6v feed from the mag is that set up possible on these bikes also? What I have read is it possible to take power of the top right wire for the lights? All I want to run is a simple head light and rear light no dip beam/brake/indicators just a simple set up.

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cocorico
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September 3, 2015 - 9:16 pm
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That's the Wipac generator - a step up from the WicoPacy unit. It can give you a whopping 55 watts if working well!

Not much knowledge of them, but I believe they can be wired in different ways, according to the model. Sunny is the forum expert on them I think.

You may be able to connect them so as to give you 12v, either for direct lighting, or rectified and regulated with a small battery.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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cooperman
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September 10, 2015 - 4:38 pm
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I didnt mean to do anything today but I ended up cleaning out the carb and stripping the fuel tank and seat pan off the bike, an interesting note is that under the seat pan there was red paint showing through under the black top coat when I sanded it a bit there is differently red paint on the frame so could it be a GPO bike? 

I also bought my first part which was a gear selector, just need the kick starter pedal now and I may try and see if there is spark and life!

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cooperman
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October 8, 2015 - 3:07 pm
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Sorry for no updates in a while, after cleaning out the carb I finally received a kick starter and gear changer which allowed me to see if the bike could be kicked over to see if A) the engine would turn and B) if I was getting spark.

After fitting the pedals I tried to kick him over and nothing he was jammed solid, thinking the worst and it could be the engine I googled the issue and it appears it's abit of a common fault where the kick starter teeth get locked with the gear teeth or something like that and by rocking the bike the teeth can be freed.

I am pleased to report that this was the issue and the engine was free to kick over But I had no spark! A quick check of the points gap found them to be to big, after adjusting and giving him a kick I got a nice blue spark!!

I added some fuel into the tank and amazingly after 40 years and just one kick he started and was running lovely!

i seem to have a issue where the main drive gear on the engine has come loose and is moving around can this be redone up where it is or do I have to take the side engine cover off!?!

anywat a great day and still lots to do but least he runs and the gears work! 

 

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cocorico
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October 8, 2015 - 5:17 pm
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Congratulations - but I don't understand what you mean by 'the main drive gear on the engine'

There is a pinion on the right hand end of the crankshaft (under the right hand side cover), then there's the gearbox output sprocket at the rear of the left hand side of the engine. I guess that's what you mean, as if the first was loose you probably wouldn't be able to start the engine! Either way, you need to take some covers off to get to it. Gearbox sprocket needs the generator and generator cover removing, which also needs a generator extractor. Then the sprocket nut is left hand thread, should be held by a lock washer.

Hope that helps.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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CharlieCeng
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October 10, 2015 - 10:15 am
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See if you can find the generator part number etched on the edge of the generator -it will start 'IG' and then four numbers.

The tank is a replacement - the filler moved to the RHs, like yours, in 1954.

Looks like a great project - I'm beginning to hanker after another one!

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cooperman
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October 22, 2015 - 8:31 pm
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Just an update I haven't had time to do much on the old man, but I need to re fit the engine chain sprocket and securing nut (the one with left hand thread) as they have worked loose some how, it looks a pretty simple job to do looking at the manual, remove the mag, remove the nut and tap of the left hand cover very carefully, would anyone have any best practices just in case I am missing something.

Also I am looking at getting the surface rust of the wheels soda blasted off has anyone done this before?

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flintdog
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October 22, 2015 - 9:05 pm
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u need a puller 4 fly wheel easy job 2 do there a lock tap on there as well 

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cooperman
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October 25, 2015 - 4:50 pm
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I did some more little jobs on the BSA today, before I start all the fun jobs I want to get the engine buttoned up and working.
I have a issue where the engine drive sprocket must of come undone at some point and the only way to get it off is to remove the left mag cover, to do this i had to remove the large nut so I came up with my own tool to lock the mag to stop it spinning so I can undo the securing nut and I'm please to report it worked! I have ordered a mag puller which is the next tool I need to be able to remove the mag and then I should finally be able to get to the securing nut for the sprocket and do it up.

What would people recommend for getting the surface rust of the wheels?

I'm currently looking for a peanut fuel tank and clip on handle bars are the next on the list once the engine is finished.

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cocorico
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October 25, 2015 - 5:04 pm
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Spot-on for the locking tool. As for surface rust, try some fine wire wool and light oil, maybe even scotchbrite scourer.

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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Maddog Leary
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October 26, 2015 - 12:16 pm
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Nice one! that's the way to get round those rotters who sell very expensive tools that will only be used once in a blue moon!.... Onya for creativity....  Heath Robinson would be proud LoL

MD cheers

Maddog - 56 Swingarm D3 Major -  Major Works in progress! Machine is fighting against me every which way!

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cooperman
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November 1, 2015 - 4:56 pm
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Thank you for the words of encoutagement chaps, Another step made today, I received the mag puller tool which worked a treat in removing the mag and allowed me to get to the 2 screws that where holding the cover on.
Once the cover was removed I could see why the drive sprocket had come loose the section of the washer that would of secured it had snapped off.
I have another washer and nut on order so once that gets delivered I should be able to refit everything back, I read in the manual you should use the chain to lock the sprocket which allows you to do the nut up is this what you guys do?  
In the mean time I cleaned the outside cover and all the mud and grass out of the inside.

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cocorico
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November 1, 2015 - 5:35 pm
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You could have re-used the tab washer - all you need to do is to knock up one of the other faces to lock the nut once it's fastened.

Heat it up, hammer it flat and choose the best face (of the nut) to turn the washer up against. It helps to do a dummy run, mark up the best combination (shaft, nut and washer), then put a start on the washer so that you can get your chisel, punch or whatever under it when reassembled.

hope-that-helps

1956 D3 running, lights to sort. 7 other bikes in the Barn. 1950 D1 engine being rebuilt (slowly).

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cooperman
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November 5, 2015 - 3:36 pm
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A lot of progress on the BSA today, fitted the new drive sprocket nut and lock washer and refitted the cover and mag back on. Had to reset the points again point some fresh petrol in (after cleaning the carb out) and boom the old man started straight up!

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I have put a Christmas list together of lights (still need to work out how I pull out voltage of the Wico paced 55 mag) handle bars and brake/clutch leavers so not much will happen for the time being, may look at getting the wheels sorted.

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cooperman
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November 8, 2015 - 4:31 pm
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So the big strip down begins, I thought I would start as always with the wheels! I have been quoted £60 to have the wheels glassed blasted which will happen over the next few weeks. They mask up the inner section of the brake drum so this won't get touched or damaged.
I stripped the wheels today, not a hard job just messy with all the old grease!
The bearings have a pretty standard setup with 2 roller bearings on each wheel (I will replace these with sealed units to help protect the ball bearings from dust and also they will be less maintenance going forward, would anyone be able to recommend where the best place to buy them would be?) one bearing butts up to a lip in the wheel, you then have a spacer tube and then the other bearing butts up to the spacer tube so there is no lip on the other side of the wheel hub for the other bearing.

I thought I would take a few last pictures of how the 'old man' looks before his rebuild.

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cooperman
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November 11, 2015 - 4:25 pm
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Today I dropped the wheels into the blarsters, before I did that I had to remove the old tyres which sounded easier then it was!
The tyres are around 50 years old the the front one was pretty solid! I took them to my local bike garage to get the tyres removed but the wheels where to narrow for their machine so I had to basically bring them back home and cut the tyres of and my word the front one was a little «censored»!!
I got talking to the guy at the blasters really nice bloke and he said he also did powder coating, so his going to strip the wheels and powder coat them satin black for £100 all in! Happy days, it will take a few weeks but I'm in no rush in the mean time this looking a little sorry for himself!

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