Things seem to have slowed down a bit on the D7 front.
I ordered vinyl number plate letters, which are very nice but when they came had a digit missing. I got in touch with the seller who kindly dispatched a replacement.... however I must have been so preoccupied that the digit was missing that I forgot to pick up the digits were black instead of white!!!!!. How did I miss that !? I'd forgotten to specify white so I've paid for the replacement and its on its way.
You can also partially see that the original number plate is a bit battered there. Its even more butchered at the top under the vinyl sticker sheet. Despite a lovely paint job it just looked too rough so I have replaced it with a pattern part. The pattern one is really quite good - though it had a rough spot weld on it which needed grinding down.
I've painted it to save a bit of time rather than pay to have it powder-coated - I can't quite decide if its come good enough though.... I'll cut it back a bit with some t-cut and post a picture.
A lot of these parts have been in boxes since 2003 - and on pulling out the backlight its been revealed to be the wrong sort:
Is the correct one the 'sabrina' type ? like this one:
Help on finding the right one would be gratefully received!
Other than the above I've all the spindle and brake nuts and bolts and fasteners have been soaking in the rust remover for 40 hours and are now in paraffin. I'm going to build the brake plates up so that when the wheels turn up I have everything ready to turn it into a rolling frame.
I usually carry pattern replacement sabrina rear lights, at £13.95. sold the last one I had in stock this morning but will be getting some more in, but not till after Christmas now. I think I may have a couple of secondhand utits if you are interested.
Thanks Howard - I may have turned one up though. I'll get in touch if it doesn't come through.
Made a little more progress ....
Built up the brake plates - though the actuation arms aren't tightened nor in the right place...
I will be stripping them again to modify the shoes and ensure the leading shoe makes contact first.
Also mocked up the nacelle....
September 28, 2011
Just bits and bobs on the D7 recently:
I noticed that the parts book shows a piece of rubber that sits in the bottom of the battery tray - so I cut one for it.
I'm realising that I am probably quite lucky to have a complete battery tray - looking at the ones that sell on ebay they seem to be all missing the wire clips or at least part of them.
Also stripped and cleaned the speedo drive:
Also stripped and cleaned the fuel taps and bought some more hose for them:
I need to replace one of the taps as the cork has disintegrated from the 'plunger'.
One job that took ages was getting the chrome strips in between the tank lugs and the frame to bolt through - such an outrageously tight fit. I think the powder coat had built up the width of the frame a little and it looks like the tank lugs had bent in at some point. I used a threaded bar with nuts and washers to gently spread the tanks lugs - but it still ended up a really squeeze.
Unfortunately - I became so focused on getting them in that once I had done it I stood back and though - 'phew - won't have to take that out in a hurry again!' only to realise I hadn't threaded the loom through .....
Looking great ... It's a long time since I fitted any but I thought the tag on the tanks strips went on the outside of the flange rather than between frame and flange ??
Just one other small point , your speedo drive cable exit sits on top in situ , bantams usually exit underneath . maybe woth checking the direction of rotation ?
I went back and had another look at the chrome strips. On my D1 they fit exactly as you describe - but on here if the are swapped over so the seat end is turned out to fit on the outside of the tank lugs - then the other end are spaced away from the front mounting.
It is odd - I'll take some pictures if I can.
I may still well be missing something though! this kind of feedback is invaluable to a newby like me though - so thank you very much!
October 3, 2011
Corks ordered for the taps and a little more progress 🙂
Loom run through and connected up to the switches. I've orientated the switches as per the wiring diagram with the headlight switch on the left. I'm presuming that's right - certainly suits the run of the loom and would make sense to switch the lights when running with the left hand.
I've a couple of brackets that I can't place .... I thInk the left one is a horn bracket ? Whilst the one on the right looks like a cable guide ? Maybe for the front brake? Any help welcomed!
Some confusion too over the centre panels.... I bought a set of spacer tubes, it came with 2 each of 2 different lengths. I've no idea what the longer ones are for - but the shorter ones are too long to space the inner panel. ???
The bracket that mounts that inner panel, that fits by the coil bracket seems to have had an extra hole drilled in to suit the spacing - but despite this when I offer up the left outer panel it looks like it will pull its back edge onto the left side of the mudguard. ???
I'm presuming that the front partial panel is meant to fit inside the right inner panel's lip...?
September 28, 2011
September 28, 2011
Your D7 is looking good AZ. Photo of the switches and sockets reminded me of the number of times a plug slipped off one or other of the switches whilst I was working on the wiring and headlamp nacelle fittings. I felt it fairly likely this could happen due vibration when running as the fit of the sockets is very woolly and the single spring clips have as much retaining power as a piece of limp lettuce. I therefore fitted both clips to one switch and made a second from a strip of mild steel, both then retained with a tie wrap. Arrangement shown below if of any help.
Just pressed a new cork on to one of the fuel taps:
Disassembled by tapping out the rivet from the head, easy to see the way it fits together when apart:
Cleaned the rivet and slid the cork over:
Slipped into a vice to press back together:
Here it is assembled alongside the old cork:
Very nice and easy job 🙂
Little bit further 🙂
I'd been having trouble with the tank bolts in the headstock and had posted about it here:
Non of the different thread types I bought would wind in so I'd started to think it was some obscure proprietary BSA fastener ...
However it was confirmed in the linked thread that they were BSF (the first one I'd tried) and I also then found the bolts that had been used there by the previous owner - and all of their threads were flat and deformed. Meaning the threads in the headstock had obviously been damaged by the wrong type of bolt being forced in.
Happily though I found my Great Grandads Taps and Dies at my Dad's place - and a 5/16 BSF was in there 🙂 So a little lubrication and they were beautifully re-cut and the bolts running in and out smoothly. There is something wonderful about using good quality tools that have been in the family for a generation or more! 🙂
Made some progress with the seat - the seat base and bracket were the worst condition of any parts on the bike. The seat cover was quite new, but the base had rusted and then been covered in thick horrible paint. The foam looks dreadful, smells, but was really comfy!
So the base has been blasted and whilst pitted is basically sound :-). So it's been passivated and then powdercoated - if it was visible it would be a dilemma, pulled between keeping as many original parts and maintaining the standard of the rest of restoration .... However with a nice cover on we'll be fine.
The foam is soaking in a dettol mixture - to kill off the smell hopefully..
I'll post up reassembly pics .... Hopefully it will all work out 🙂
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