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Anderzander's D1
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Cornish Rooster
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December 7, 2011 - 10:52 am
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David,

Not been home since you sent the float, still working away, did one job then detailed off to do another straight after, on a ship heading for Japan at the moment, hope to get back to the UK a week or so before xmas.
Amal are dragging their feet on parts for these carbs, still toying with the idea of trying a new Dellorto carb they make one the right size with a clamp fitting as well, and for two stroke use, maybe put that in my "Projects" folder !!!!

Phil

BSA Bantam D1 "150" in use regularly often as general purpose transport, quite a few other bikes as well. Cornwall Area Rep. 

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Anderzander
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December 7, 2011 - 10:32 pm
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Progress! but not out of the woods yet. Or should that be out of the garage yet.... ?

It ran tonight after jumping on the kick start for a while - but it would only start and then run with the choke closed. When I opened the choke it would run for a moment and then stall - if I tickled the carb again and shut the choke then it would start and run again.

I'm thinking either the new fuel pipe I fitted has too small an internal diameter and is restricting flow - or the tap is blocked with debris and the restriction is there. Looking in the tank there does seem to be a fair bit of flakey rust in there.

The other positive thing was my headlight was fantastically bright for a short while - I must have left 6v bulbs in as they blew very quickly. Encouraging though! I also had an unbelievably bright tail light - until I realised the brake light and rear light were wired backwards..... a quick swap of the wires and the back lights were good 🙂

I think I will drain the tank, remove the tap, and fill the tank with the rust remover I used on the forks and see what that yields.

Can anyone confirm the id of the fuel pipe they are using?

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Anderzander
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December 9, 2011 - 6:48 pm
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Drained and sieved the fuel tonight so I could have a go at cleaning the tank out and clean the tap too.

The mesh on the tap was in surprisingly good order - though their was a fair bit of gunge around its base :

1cde1e05.jpg

The mesh was a bit pinched at the bottom too - so not so good for fuel flow. I was able to pick just over half of the gunge out with a scribe:

a8586cc8.jpg

The rest I blew out with the airline. I also removed the tap and gently fed a thin cable tie up through the tap which helped reform the shape of the mesh, particularly at its base. Very pleased with that - the tap's good to go.

I had a peer into the tank - and whilst not the worst, it could do with a clean:

8230c304.jpg

I considered using the same rust remover as I used on the fork springs - but hesitated as the tank is 1-3/4 gallons, or about 8 litres in new money, and would cost around £10. I'd seen a number of youtube videos of people de-rusting things using vinegar to good effect .....

so, introducing tesco's value vinegar:

7b67964d-1.jpg

560 ml at 13pence each. So 14 bottles will cost £1.82. Got to be worth a try. So rather than put my nice clean tap back in I looked for a temporary substitute to plug the tank and found one in the form of an old RD500 temp sender:

19e43144.jpg

I'll report back with the results 🙂

I also need a new fuel pipe - or to find out the thread size so I can make up a copper one. I offered it up to a 1/8 fitting suggested by Cornish Phil earlier in the thread and it was larger. Any info or pieces of pipe welcome!

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December 9, 2011 - 8:19 pm
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Interesting Anderzander.

Let us know how you get on with vinegar.

I enjoyed reading about your adjustments to the barrel. I've done something simelar myself.

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December 9, 2011 - 8:44 pm
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Quote from Anderzander on December 5, 2011, 22:24
Thanks Al - I'm not really after modifying it beyond a tidy up. Any tips for sorting the standard carb would be very welcome though! 🙂

Hi, enjoying the thread, just to confirm my last statement (although a little late now for you) even by polishing the ports with solvo autosol by hand, until it has a shine will make a considerable difference, we're not speaking of bantam racer, but the difference is noticeable.

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December 10, 2011 - 4:51 am
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Yes the strainer on the fuel tap and the interior of the fuel tank looks much like mine did when I first had it, be interesting to find out how the vinegar cleaning goes. I do have some fancy chemicals from Caswell to clean mine but its still in the "projects folder" !!!
When I got my Rex Caunt kit it came supplied with the correct 12 volt bulbs, did you get these ? and you are right with this set up the lights are actually quite good, I use my Bantam on dark country lanes and they are up to the job for the speed I go, quite a difference from the "candle in a beer bottle" lights previously.
I would recommend fitting a cheap and cheerful inline fuel filter even if the tank clean is successful as I said before the fine sediment finds its way to the carb and creates all sorts of hassle, 99% sure your starting and running problems were down to fuel starvation, strangler on etc.
Sorry no help with the piping, I should think the right size of copper tubing with flared ends should do the job, a flaring tool does not cost a fortune, be interesting to see how you get on with that one.
I use some rubber fuel pipe quite a small size, might be 4 or 5mm bore ? anyhow seems to work ok with an adequate supply to the carb even with a turn in it to fit the inline filter, I know its best not to put a vertical loop in a fuel line but strangely or not I have never had any fuel supply problems or airlocks.

Phil

BSA Bantam D1 "150" in use regularly often as general purpose transport, quite a few other bikes as well. Cornwall Area Rep. 

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PeteMcD
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December 10, 2011 - 11:20 am
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Anderzander said
I also need a new fuel pipe – or to find out the thread size so I can make up a copper one. ....... Any info or pieces of pipe welcome!

If it's just standard fuel tube you need, then 3/16" Reinforced Nylon Braid PVC Fuel Line is what I used. You can see what I got if you search for that on eBay.

It is cheap enough, looks OK and does the job.

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Anderzander
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December 10, 2011 - 11:31 pm
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Thanks for the replies guys 🙂 good information and very encouraging.

Here's a couple of links about the vinegar soaking:

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and perhaps the most pertinent:

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Some amazing pictures in this thread:

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I wish there was some way to scrub it inside!

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Anderzander
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December 11, 2011 - 2:36 pm
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36 Hour Vinegar update.....

Filtered the vinegar out into a bucket, took a photo or two and then have put it back in. From reading the links above 5 days seems the time period to aim at.

This is the before:

c16a9111.jpg

This is the now - you can start to see grey metal coming through.

ff9ba79d.png

Peering into the bottom front - its hard to photograph but this is a lot cleaner than it was, with more grey metal showing through:

8aac6675.jpg

Not vast amounts in the sieve, but I think its not a fine one and also the issue was more to do with rust and that seems to be dissolved by the vinegar:

6991e1fb.jpg

The rust is sitting like a scum on top of the vinegar:

622e7db6.jpg

Having slowly poured the vinegar back in it left this at the bottom:

53cc9fa2.jpg

So all in - quite encouraging I think.

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December 11, 2011 - 8:24 pm
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Little bit of a digression.... this is my loom at present:

D1Custom.png

The first thing to point out is that that new ignition has its own wiring up to under the tank where the 12v feed is taken from. So rather than the 12v feed into the switch coming all the way down to the crank case it is shorter to meet a bullet under the tank.

The second difference is that the live feed is then extended back to run a brake light, labelled 'switch' on the diagram. The switch wires split/turn from the loom to go to the switch perhaps 4" after where the main earth cable terminates. The diagram shows how the switched brake live runs parallel to the back light feed.

The only other difference is in the headlight shell - where instead of having a battery connection (green wire) for the pilot light - I'm going to bridge the 12v feed to that pin, so the switch turns 12v onto the pale blue wire.

I'm thinking of replacing all the wiring, I did tidy it up quite a bit and of course the wiring that came with the ignition is all new - but the old wiring is in very poor condition with incorrect colours and connectors. Its a diversion - but looking at it, it seems a shame not to do it at the moment.

If its possible I would also really like a cloth / braided loom and the grommet needs replacing to.

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December 14, 2011 - 12:38 am
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Quick vinegar update..

Wow! It's working really well. Four days in I've sieved it again and put it back in again. I forgot my camera and little torch - so no photos, but I'm delighted with how clean it is.

I'm not sure a photo would capture it properly and it needs properly flushing out, so I'll try that next time and take some photos.

🙂 Recommended!

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Anderzander
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December 17, 2011 - 12:29 am
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Tank still soaking - in the mean time one of the things I've made a start on is collecting the pipe and ferrules to have a copper fuel line.

4c39f869.jpg

Its not a cheap option as the ferrules to fit the 7/16 tap are not a standard size and cost £4.00 each ! However its a christmas present.

They fit straight into one of the existing nuts - as can be seen on the bottom of the tap. However the other required the nut drilling out a fraction.

One thing that really did surprise me though was the internal diameter difference on the fittings for use with the previous rubber pipe ...... I can't imagine this won't have had a negative impact on the fuel flow - however it didn't seem to ?

1b12092b.png

My question to the forum is : do I go for a vertical loop in the copper or a horizontal one?

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December 17, 2011 - 10:01 am
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The way you see on real old bikes is two or three horizontal loops, sometimes called a "pigs tail" ideally its best not to have vertical loops as its possible to get an airlock ( although I have a vertical loop on my rubber fuel pipe), the other reason for the loops is to prevent fracture as the loops take up some vibration and expansion.

Phil

BSA Bantam D1 "150" in use regularly often as general purpose transport, quite a few other bikes as well. Cornwall Area Rep. 

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Anderzander
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December 18, 2011 - 3:16 pm
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Finished with the vinegar and have to say its worked brilliantly. The photos don't capture the transformation though - they don't pick up how it's gone from a very rough texture to totally smooth. For what they are worth though - here are some pictures:

This is the before:

c16a9111-2.jpg

Part way through and you can start to see grey metal coming through.

ff9ba79d-2.png

This is as it finished:

d6232adb-1.png

8711c45e.jpg

5f1f9651.png

I can crack on with the fuel line now.

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December 21, 2011 - 11:19 pm
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Made a little progress with the copper fuel line.

Finding it really quite difficult to bend, line up and even get the ferrules fully on! Here it is in situ but not yet soldered .....

86b9fe8e.jpg

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December 22, 2011 - 9:10 am
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Looks good, of you need to do some adjustments then its best to anneal the copper, heat to cherry red and quench in water, or did you already know that ?

BSA Bantam D1 "150" in use regularly often as general purpose transport, quite a few other bikes as well. Cornwall Area Rep. 

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December 22, 2011 - 10:16 pm
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Hi Phil

I have read up on that. I have been putting heat into it - to encourage it to relax a bit whilst working it, but just enough to turn it silver rather than cherry red. It seems I'd really have to hold the torch on for a bit to get it to that stage. I will though !

Fingers crossed it all goes well.

So far what remains to do is:

Finish Fuel pipe
Replace loom
Buy and fit 12v bulbs ....

Then hopefully lots of riding.......

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December 23, 2011 - 11:48 pm
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Ok - a little more tinkering on the D1 tonight....

I fully annealed the copper fuel line tonight and what a difference - you could really feel the softness come back into the pipe. I'm very pleased with that as it'll be very pliable to absorb the vibration of the motor now.

The soldering didn't go quite as smoothly as I'd have liked. One end the solder looked a little dull but penetrated right through to the other side of the ferrule - the other end the solder was very bright but didn't seem to penetrate right through. However it should be fine given their is no pressure and I did meticulously clean it and flux it before hand.

0c44a385.png

Just needs cleaning a little more and it'll be ready to go on. Happy to share more detail on its manufacture if anyone is interested.

I also stripped out the speedometer as it was very grubby - particularly around the glass, which was dirty and encircled by light oxidation. I gave the cover a rub down and a clean, but unfortunately its reacted with my etch primer:

496c25a4.png

I'll have to strip it back more thoroughly and try again.

Here's the face before cleaning:

0735e269.jpg

I used rubbing alcohol, cotton buds, microfibre cloth and tissues. The only issue though was that I rolled a couple of numbers round and inadvertently clocked it :-/

ce94c706.jpg

Here's the super clean glass:

8a520368.png

The dirty marks inside that had been bugging me for ages! I'm also please at how much yellow lifted off the surface making the gauge much clearer.

I also re-routed the front brake cable up through the hole in the bottom yoke (and removing the speedo drive from it) - from photos that appears to be the correct routing ..... anyone confirm that please?

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December 24, 2011 - 5:07 pm
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Stripped the speedometer case back to bare metal:

8a991241.png

Currently being repainted now - photos when its done.

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January 13, 2012 - 12:44 pm
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Progress on the Speedo...

Here are the parts ready for assembly, powdercoated housing, rubber seal, and the rubber backed brass seal.

6e59fcfc.png

And here it is all assembled - I'm delighted!
Wish I had a 'before' picture - because the 'after' is a huge transformation 🙂

c1164bb7.png

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